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  1. #1
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    Anyone Running 180mm Fork on 160mm Bike...

    So I have been in heavy debate whether or not to swap my Fox 36 160 out for a 180mm to run on my Nomad

    Its hard to get an honest opinion from most 180 owners because must just say its bad@ss and works great since they bought the 180. I would like to hear the real deal...good and bad of those running a 7" fork on a 6" travel bike. Is the bike really that much more plush? Does it dive more? Steering sluggish..etc

  2. #2
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    Steering will slow down, bottom bracket will be higher. Don't know about being a lot plusher, you'll still have the same amount of travel at the rear, but this will move your weight back enough that you might actually have to go for a stiffer spring / more pressure on the rear, and a lighter spring in the front / less preload.

    Really depends on where you are riding, what kind of trails etc.

  3. #3
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    I thought the steeper the HTA, the faster the steering?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrniceguy42
    I thought the steeper the HTA, the faster the steering?
    Yes, but changing to a longer fork will not make the HTA steeper.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by stunzeed
    So I have been in heavy debate whether or not to swap my Fox 36 160 out for a 180mm to run on my Nomad

    Its hard to get an honest opinion from most 180 owners because must just say its bad@ss and works great since they bought the 180. I would like to hear the real deal...good and bad of those running a 7" fork on a 6" travel bike. Is the bike really that much more plush? Does it dive more? Steering sluggish..etc
    I did it ...., I'm glad I did it.

    I'm glad I didn't follow my friend's sugesstion to buy Fox 36 160mm for geometry blablabla reasons.

    My bike is Specialized Pitch Pro ( standard bike come with Pike 140mm ),

    I replaced the pike fork with Fox Float 36 180 FIT-RC2.

    More Dive during braking ? Yes, sort of .... but I can minimise the dive effects using low speed adjustment.

    More plush ? Yes, definetely, it has 20mm more travel to absorb vibrations + hard hits.

    More sluggish on tight cornering? Yes, ..... but its not important factor for me. I can switch front tires to make it grippier.

    Better ride ? Yes, definetely. Fox Float 36 is the best suspension fork.

    Look cooler now ? of course

    Going uphill ? The front tires sometimes can lift on very steep hill..... but I shift the weight forward, or I simply step down and start walking.

  6. #6
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    I ride an 07 Nomad with a coil shock, and have a Talas 36 160mm and RS Domain 180mm to switch between, both with a 50mm 0 rise stem and Chromag flat bar.
    I prefer, in almost all high speed downhill situations, the body position the 36 puts me in, including steeps.
    If you tend to ride off the back end of your bike, the 180mm will probably work for you, but I like being in a more aggressive stance, and don't feel like I'm giving up anything in the way of plushness.

    You've got a bunch of threads up about turning your nomad into a more DH oriented bike, and my 2cents are to spend ~$200 on different tires and experiment with front/back combos and pressures.
    When you find the tires/pressure that work best for you and your environment, you will see much bigger gains in confidence and performance than 20mm of fork travel.

  7. #7
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    I have a Fox 180mm Talas on my Ibis HD. There are times I wish I had a 160mm Float on there, 1 pound of weight savings, better in techy climbing situations, but then I hit certain trails or sections of trails on my rides, and any regrets instantly disappear.
    I have a tendency to like to ride slightly overbuilt bikes, I find them more fun, and any reduction in efficiency is made up for in smiles and chuckles.
    I was able to keep my bar height pretty low, so I don't really have any problems climbing the 180mm fork, and I rarely use the Talas function.

  8. #8
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    I have a 180mm Totem 2-Step on my Rocky Mountain Slayer. Used a 160mm Domain before. I just drop the travel during 'climbs'. Otherwise.. I'm pointed downhill most of the time with the Slayer and the extra travel is nice.
    My Trifecta: Rocky Mountain Flatline Pro, Rocky Mountain Slayer SXC70, eBay Carbon Hardtail

  9. #9
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    I had a Marz 66 180 on my Giant Reign. Was great, like a dh bike you could pedal around - felt very similar to my Faith. That bike could handle anything I threw at it (until I busted the pivot bolt/bearings).

    Yes, it slowed my steering a bit, the front tended to lift easier on climbs, but the stability at high speeds in the rough was totally worth it. For slow-moderate riding, it's not that great, but for fast and burly, heck yes. FWIW, I tend to ride off the back of my bike, esp. in steeps and gnar.

    I've since blown my 66 out, and am on an Enduro, with a 160 fork. It works great, but I find myself missing the Reign. May need to repair it after all.
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  10. #10
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    Actually thought about this on my '10 GT Sanction 1.0 which currently runs the Talas RC2 FIT 160 fork which up to this point has seem like a perfect, really plush fork. I haven't quite run through the travel on it yet on what I ride and while I don't mind spending the money to upgrade, I'd hate to screw with what otherwise has been a pretty dialed-in ride.

  11. #11
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    Hell yea! Have a 180 RS Domain on my Iron horse 6point. Never looked back.
    Slacked out the front end and increased BB height a little. All in all not a whole lot of noticeable difference when climbing. But, when pointed down, the added travel really helps.

  12. #12
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    I have a 180 66RC2X on my 6point and I ride it everywhere just fine. As another poster said, I like over built bikes too.
    It is only 1" inch difference in A2C. 545mm vs. 565mm. Are you really going to notice the difference? Does it really shift your ride geometry that much?

    You can increase sag to get the same ride height and that can give you a plusher ride.
    Having a fork or shock with good BO control helps.

    I really do not concern myself with 1" geometry differences. Should you really?

    Steering sluggish? Compared to what? I have never had an issue turning the bars on any of my bikes. And why would you want your steering to be super quick anyway?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576
    I did it ...., I'm glad I did it.

    I'm glad I didn't follow my friend's sugesstion to buy Fox 36 160mm for geometry blablabla reasons.

    My bike is Specialized Pitch Pro ( standard bike come with Pike 140mm ),

    I replaced the pike fork with Fox Float 36 180 FIT-RC2.

    More Dive during braking ? Yes, sort of .... but I can minimise the dive effects using low speed adjustment.

    More plush ? Yes, definetely, it has 20mm more travel to absorb vibrations + hard hits.

    More sluggish on tight cornering? Yes, ..... but its not important factor for me. I can switch front tires to make it grippier.

    Better ride ? Yes, definetely. Fox Float 36 is the best suspension fork.

    Look cooler now ? of course

    Going uphill ? The front tires sometimes can lift on very steep hill..... but I shift the weight forward, or I simply step down and start walking.
    you're running a 180mm fork on a 140mm bike? that would put it at around a 65 degree head angle. that's just dumb. seems you have the wrong bike.

  14. #14
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    I put a 180mm Marz 66 RC3 Ti on my Nomad this winter. I've had a 160mm van and talas on my nomad before.

    The 66 is definitely the most plush and best performing out of all 3, and it's Ti spring is relatively soft. I'm running about 30% sag, and I dont notice the front is any higher than before.

    I say do it and you will have no regrets.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576
    I did it ...., I'm glad I did it.

    I'm glad I didn't follow my friend's sugesstion to buy Fox 36 160mm for geometry blablabla reasons.

    My bike is Specialized Pitch Pro ( standard bike come with Pike 140mm ),

    I replaced the pike fork with Fox Float 36 180 FIT-RC2.

    More Dive during braking ? Yes, sort of .... but I can minimise the dive effects using low speed adjustment.

    More plush ? Yes, definetely, it has 20mm more travel to absorb vibrations + hard hits.

    More sluggish on tight cornering? Yes, ..... but its not important factor for me. I can switch front tires to make it grippier.

    Better ride ? Yes, definetely. Fox Float 36 is the best suspension fork.

    Look cooler now ? of course

    Going uphill ? The front tires sometimes can lift on very steep hill..... but I shift the weight forward, or I simply step down and start walking.


    The fact you put a 180mm on a Pitch is simply bad ass!!!! Very Nice!

  16. #16
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    Look Ma, it's 2001 all over again.

    Hamish put a Monster T on his Norco Sasquatch!

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail-Shredder
    The fact you put a 180mm on a Pitch is simply bad ass!!!! Very Nice!
    Thank you

  18. #18
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    36 Van 180 on my ReignX. Handling is still plenty playful and the bike can pick it's own line if I want. Not too slack for trail riding and it lifted the BB just enough.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576
    I did it ...., I'm glad I did it.

    I'm glad I didn't follow my friend's sugesstion to buy Fox 36 160mm for geometry blablabla reasons.

    My bike is Specialized Pitch Pro ( standard bike come with Pike 140mm ),

    I replaced the pike fork with Fox Float 36 180 FIT-RC2.

    More Dive during braking ? Yes, sort of .... but I can minimise the dive effects using low speed adjustment.

    More plush ? Yes, definetely, it has 20mm more travel to absorb vibrations + hard hits.

    More sluggish on tight cornering? Yes, ..... but its not important factor for me. I can switch front tires to make it grippier.

    Better ride ? Yes, definetely. Fox Float 36 is the best suspension fork.

    Look cooler now ? of course

    Going uphill ? The front tires sometimes can lift on very steep hill..... but I shift the weight forward, or I simply step down and start walking.
    better hope you never need the warrenty...

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail-Shredder
    The fact you put a 180mm on a Pitch is simply bad ass!!!! Very Nice!
    Simply badass?

    Ha. Kinda silly maybe... 180mm fork on a 140mm bike? snap goes the headtube...
    Speed has never killed anybody. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what gets you.

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  21. #21
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    I have tested my bike two times going to mountains. Nothing wrong with it !!

    I'm glad I did it and I dont care with warranty.

  22. #22
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    two times! well, if it can survive after two rides then surely it will survive them all!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine
    two times! well, if it can survive after two rides then surely it will survive them all!
    Well.... you dont have to copy my idea.

    Dont copy me If you scare you will change the bike's geometry with 180mm fork.

    Dont copy me if you scare you will do some willy and flip your bike with 180mm fork.

    Dont copy me if you scare you will lose the bike's warranty with 180mm fork.

    As SIMPLE and CLEAR as that.

  24. #24
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    I'm running 140mm on a 100mm bike, 170mm with the 29" front wheel in there, ( Reba 100 29" so it's same length as a 140mm but less sag so more like a 150 LOL )

    Nearly a year in no head tube sheering off issues as yet, no biggy if it happens as I like how it rides like this.

    140 to 180 is 510mm fork length to 550mm so 7.8% more leverage, as long as your >7.8% under the max rider weight for that frame you'll be fine

    sub 4% with 20mm's more, do it if you want to do it.

  25. #25
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    that pitch... oh brother...

    but back on track i have thought about running a 180 fork sagged so much it mimicks a 160 fork sagged and crank the lsc to tune out dive. i think it would be a fun experiment if i had the cash.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576
    Well.... you dont have to copy my idea.

    Dont copy me If you scare you will change the bike's geometry with 180mm fork.

    Dont copy me if you scare you will do some willy and flip your bike with 180mm fork.

    Dont copy me if you scare you will lose the bike's warranty with 180mm fork.

    As SIMPLE and CLEAR as that.
    i have the proper bike for my needs. if you really, truly need 180mm up front then you're using the wrong bike to begin with.

    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd
    I'm running 140mm on a 100mm bike, 170mm with the 29" front wheel in there, ( Reba 100 29" so it's same length as a 140mm but less sag so more like a 150 LOL )

    Nearly a year in no head tube sheering off issues as yet, no biggy if it happens as I like how it rides like this.

    140 to 180 is 510mm fork length to 550mm so 7.8% more leverage, as long as your >7.8% under the max rider weight for that frame you'll be fine

    sub 4% with 20mm's more, do it if you want to do it.
    axle-to-crown of a fox 180mm is 565mm which is over 10%. 65 degree HA on a bike with 140mm rear travel is ridiculous. the bike is slacker than a good number of full on dh race bikes.
    Last edited by saturnine; 04-13-2011 at 11:10 AM.

  27. #27
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    For you it might be nuts and wrong, but for others it's just 20mm's it's nothing, what ever works and suites the user.

    I use a 29er fork to slacken the angles with a 26" wheel ( 29" when I want really slack ) as I don't like travel above 100mm, I'm sure you'd think thats crazy to, but it rides very well.


    Above will invalidate your warranty ofcourse, if they find out ofcourse!!

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd
    For you it might be nuts and wrong, but for others it's just 20mm's it's nothing, what ever works and suites the user.

    I use a 29er fork to slacken the angles with a 26" wheel ( 29" when I want really slack ) as I don't like travel above 100mm, I'm sure you'd think thats crazy to, but it rides very well.


    Above will invalidate your warranty ofcourse, if they find out ofcourse!!
    but it's not 20mm, it's 40mm.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576

    Dont copy me if you scare you will lose the bike's warranty with 180mm fork.
    .
    There is no reason to be scared of that. Why would you be scared of losing the warranty when it's a 1:1 fact; you know it will happen so you have to accept it, not be scared of it.

    However the thing you should maybe be worried about is the reason why you lose the warranty. Don't think Specialized void warranty when using a 40mm longer fork because it makes the ride suck, they void it because it stresses the frame differently to what they designed it for.

    I'm not saying the frame will necessarily fail. The pitch is a pretty burly frame, I never heard of one failing. I'm sure if you just want the slack angles you will be fine, but if you start riding it like bikes that actually come from the factory with a 180mm fork are designed to be ridden then I'm pretty sure you will be very close (or over) to the maximum stress the bike was designed for.

  30. #30
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    Im running the Domain 180mm on my Giant Reign X... Love it...!!!!

  31. #31
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    What about a 170mm fork? That's what I'm running on my Butcher. The rock shox lyrik coil rc2dh is an amazing fork and only weighs 5.2 lb. It's not a totem but it can definitely some heavier riding. You could even shed some more weight with the 4.8 lb solo air lyrik.

  32. #32
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    Had a 36 previously. Won't go back. Bit slacker -- and better at speed. Yes, not as nimble in slow tech. Have to stand over it more to climb, but climbing is just for fitness in my book. Sweat up the fireroad.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by ipattis


    Had a 36 previously. Won't go back. Bit slacker -- and better at speed. Yes, not as nimble in slow tech. Have to stand over it more to climb, but climbing is just for fitness in my book. Sweat up the fireroad.
    that is one bomber nomad!

  34. #34
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    I've just installed a Totem Coild 180mm on my Rocky Mountain Slayer SXC 50. I wasn't happy with my Fox Float R. The problem right now is that the my Totem has a defective, leaking Mission Control cartridge and it's currently being warrantied. For the three rides I had it, I was very impressed with the stiffness of the Totem. I wasn't happy with the medium spring so I've ordered a soft spring (I weigh 155lbs). Will report back once it's back from the shop.

  35. #35
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    i ran my fox float 180 on my banshee rune for about 6 month. worked fine, but eventually ended up lowering it to 170 because despite the benefits: slack HA and additional travel, i could feel the bike's balance was thrown a little off.

    i was pretty surprised how big of a difference dropping it to 170 made. didnt measure but feels a good bit steeper (still plenty slack for my use), and the bike's balance is great. i would never feel the need to drop down to the intended 160

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post




    I have tested my bike two times going to mountains. Nothing wrong with it !!

    I'm glad I did it and I dont care with warranty.
    What no water bottle cage?

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post




    I have tested my bike two times going to mountains. Nothing wrong with it !!

    I'm glad I did it and I dont care with warranty.
    Nice bike. Ride the pizz out of it.
    Oldest daughter doesn't ride.

  38. #38
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    Haha thats a great pitch.
    6'5" 230lbs
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  39. #39
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    I put a RS Domain 180 on my 2010 GT Force 3.0 and at first loved it at DH parks. Brought it home to the local trails and I couldn't climb this one hill that I always ride without having to get off and walk because the front wheel was wandering and lifting so bad. I tried flipping my stem but even then my seat angle still felt jacked back too much putting me too far over the rear wheel for climbing. Instead I modded the Domain to be a 160-115 u-turn with a few parts. That 20mm made a big dif for me. Now I can get the correct body position for the climbs (even in 160 mode but better dropped) and honestly I think I like the feeling of the bike with the fork as a 160 better on all the DH stuff except the really big technical rock field knar that I prob shouldn't be riding on an AM bike anyhow. But it and I can still do it. I probably wouldn't ever go back to the 180mm on my Force. That's my experience.

  40. #40
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    this is an old pic and i no longer have the bike but it was hella fun while i had it like this.

    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  41. #41
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    I love the 180 fork on my AM/FR bike but couldn't imagine climbing on it without the TALAS feature. Even on flattish pedally areas it's nice to drop it down to a more trail bike friendly 120mm.
    Keep the Country country.

  42. #42
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    you need to adjust your riding. i can climb the same things with 180mm as 160.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  43. #43
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    Sorry, being clearer: I don't mean technical climbing or the ability to make it up stuff. I often leave it in long travel for that kind of thing for better handling. I mean sustained, steep, climbing maybe several times over a long ride. Using your 160mm bike as a trail bike. I love the 180 fork but climbing endurance and speed as well as comfort and enjoyment would take a hit if I couldn't lower it. The same traits that make it better than a 160 fork on the DH put your body in an awkward position for making sustained power on climbs.
    Keep the Country country.

  44. #44
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    Old thread... and I suspect this happens more now than it did two years ago when it was first started.

    I've been running 180 66RC3 on my Delirium T for the past year and can't imagine going back to the 160.

    The only time I notice a disadvantage at all is on bigger steps while doing tech climbs and I'll get some wandering while climbing in chunkier slow stuff if I'm tired and not focused. Long sustained, smoother climbs are no poroblem.

    For everything else? Way better with the 180 fork.

    Disclaimer: The DT is approved for a 180mm fork and is not your typical 160mm bike. Built and designed more like a 7-8 inch bike.
    Last edited by KRob; 01-16-2013 at 06:43 PM.
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  45. #45
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    Hey KRob don'tcut the bike short! it has 167mm of rear travel. You are right though, its probably one of the bruliest "shorter" travel frames made. If should also be mentioned that while the D-T is not a snappy but has pretty nutty ability to climb stuff.

    ****all that bring said, I'm running a 170mm lyrik on my nomad and i'm liking it alot but I would love to try the bike with a 160mm fork. It think it would liven up the bike on all the other terrain but decending.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by ride the biscuit View Post
    i ran my fox float 180 on my banshee rune for about 6 month. worked fine, but eventually ended up lowering it to 170 because despite the benefits... i would never feel the need to drop down to the intended 160
    a year and few months after I posted this, I did drop the fork down to the intended 160 and ended up preferring it that way especially for technical riding

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post
    Hey KRob don'tcut the bike short! it has 167mm of rear travel. You are right though, its probably one of the bruliest "shorter" travel frames made. If should also be mentioned that while the D-T is not a snappy but has pretty nutty ability to climb stuff.
    I was almost certain that the DT had 6.3" (160mm) rear wheel travel so I checked the knolly site and come to find out we're both wrong: 165mm or 6.5" is the correct number...... unless the knolly site is wrong.

    And you are correct. The DT, though quite portly, is a superp technical climber.... it just was a bit better on bigger steps with the shorter 160mm fork and steep HA. If you're not careful the slack seattube can put you back over the rearwheel a bit too much and with the taller stack height and slacker HA of the 180 fork it can make that worse.
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  48. #48
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    Titus El Guapo, 180 TALAS. It's out of warranty, I'm not scared.

    The next frame will likely be a Mojo HD, definitely putting the 180 on it.
    @pinkrobeyyc
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  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post

    ****all that bring said, I'm running a 170mm lyrik on my nomad and i'm liking it alot but I would love to try the bike with a 160mm fork. It think it would liven up the bike on all the other terrain but decending.
    Nah, I went from a 160mm to a 170mm. I changed to an internal bottom headset cup wich helped but the 170mm is miles better. I hat a Kashima FIT Float before. Much prefer the Marz.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone Running 180mm Fork on 160mm Bike...-559727_10152305508920710_1535655750_n.jpeg  


  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by KRob View Post
    I was almost certain that the DT had 6.3" (160mm) rear wheel travel so I checked the knolly site and come to find out we're both wrong: 165mm or 6.5" is the correct number...... unless the knolly site is wrong.

    And you are correct. The DT, though quite portly, is a superp technical climber.... it just was a bit better on bigger steps with the shorter 160mm fork and steep HA. If you're not careful the slack seattube can put you back over the rearwheel a bit too much and with the taller stack height and slacker HA of the 180 fork it can make that worse.

    Kent

    You are not having a breakdown, it WAS listed at 160mm, but was updated to 165 - as that is the travel when the wheelbase in the longest setting.... but was originally spec'd at a shorter setting. (Cant remember if if was short or mid)

    michael
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  51. #51
    some know me as mongo
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    Jwind, that is the thing I have a 170mm tapered fork so I am at 170mm with an external lower cup. if I lower the fork to 160mm it will still be a bit higher than your frontend.

    I will try and report back

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by mykel View Post
    Kent

    You are not having a breakdown, it WAS listed at 160mm, but was updated to 165 - as that is the travel when the wheelbase in the longest setting.... but was originally spec'd at a shorter setting. (Cant remember if if was short or mid)

    michael
    Gotcha. I wondered.
    So the update is appropriate because I ran mine in the middle for 4 years after the initial experimentation.... but recently stretched it out to the longest setting in anticipation of using it mostly as a shuttle/DH rig. Also running the HA adjustment in the slackest setting.

    Still not low and slack like a proper DH bike but it helps.
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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by sir_crackien View Post
    Jwind, that is the thing I have a 170mm tapered fork so I am at 170mm with an external lower cup. if I lower the fork to 160mm it will still be a bit higher than your frontend.

    I will try and report back
    I think you can still get an internal cup? Or at least something close?

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