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  1. #1
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    anyone regret going from a 4 inch to 6 inch bike?

    right now i have a trance with a 32 talas up front, so 4/5 travel.. i raced bmx for years so im pretty smooth, and run a fairly xc setup (no weeny parts, but they're lighter duty stuff.. 450g rims and 2.1 nevs, etc) without breaking many parts.

    i like the bike, but id like it more slack.. i know im going to give up a little speed with more travel, but i think id feel more secure on a longer travel bike on some downhill grunts. it doesnt look like id be adding more than 2lbs total with a couple more inches in the rear.

    anyone switch over to a longer travel bike and regret doing so?

    considering a reign or blur lt.. or another similar bike.

  2. #2
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    Ummmm.... HELL NO. I don't care about weight so that won't be an issue for me. 6" is way better. There are plenty of bikes out there that you can ride all day w/ 6".
    By the way, skip the Blur. Go for the Reign. Reigns absolutely rock. Blurs are meh.
    Flame away, Blur riders.

  3. #3
    Bike to the Bone...
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    I just guess it depends on what riding you want to do. Unless you really just like to ride fast on smooth roads, there are several six inchers that are pretty fast but can handle rougher trails. I would think that coming from a BMX, you would do more with a 6 inch rather than 4.

    The Blur LT is like 5.5 inch, not 6, but it looks as a pretty good bike.

  4. #4
    ride hard take risks
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    Same words here it all comes down to the rider.

    Their are people that shred DH/AM/FR/DJ trail on a HT and refuse to ride FS. Then their are the riders that love how a FS can smooth out the same trails making it easier on the nut holding the bars.

    A FS will make riding aggressive trail easier so the rider is less fatigued but if one lacks experience they will learn how to rip trail properly on a HT which is like a BMX working the pump.
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  5. #5
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    I have a Reign with a 6" fork, which I ride a lot. Epic XC rides with big descents.

    Honestly a lot of what I like about the bike is geometry and my body position on the bike. A lighter shorter travel is easier to toss around. The extra travel, honestly is not needed in most cases, unless you are doing big hits, or riding the roughest trail all day long.

    There are handful maybe 2- 4 shorter travel bikes that you can find with slack geometry, but not nearly as many as the 6 inch bikes.

    The Blur 4x, and Commencal Meta 4X -version. are two which come to mind.

    There are times I wish I had a lighter bike, not enough to get rid of the bike I have now. I'm really happy with it.

  6. #6
    The White Jeff W
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    I haven't touched my 4" bike since I got my Yeti.
    No moss...

  7. #7
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    I built up a 5.5" bike the end of last season, then over the winter I built up a 4" bike that is about 5 lbs lighter so I figured I would ride that at some of the tamer spots I ride at. Well so far I always go for the 5.5" bike so much in fact I'm thinking about selling off my 4" bike after only about half a dozen rides
    I Ride Bikes.

  8. #8
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    A 6" all mountain rig that would only weigh 2 extra pounds than your XC bike would be a huge improvement for those downhills you mentioned. I went from a 5" Stumpy to a 6" Enduro(non SL) and never ride my Stumpy now unless the Enduro needs work or I am racing XC.
    There is a over a 5 pound difference and climbing is harder on teched out tracks but the downhill is so much more enjoyable. Although there is only a 1" travel difference it feels more like 2 or 3 and more slack of course as well helping on the DH's....so much more plush. I like technical trails that demand good technical riding skills and it sounds like you are the same. Unless you are really XC oriented there will be no going back after you have ridden a more all mountain bike IMO.
    I would go for the Giant Reign as well....great platform(maestro) with universal good reviews. If you can get one with only a 2lb difference I doubt very much that you will regret it.
    Good luck!

  9. #9
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    You might want to take a look at the Orange ST-4. Its supposed to be a 4 inch ripper with slacker angles.

    http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/2009bik...hp?model_id=98

  10. #10
    EDR
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    anyone switch over to a longer travel bike and regret doing so?
    Best move I ever made was moving from my xc 4'' Tomac to the 575.

    The extra travel is great but what really makes the bike soooooooooooooo much more fun to ride is the slacker angles. When I had my Tomac I was beginning to ride more technically advanced trails and it was scary being over the bars so much on the roll-offs and ledges. I would go OTB fairly often and was trying real hard to stay behind the bike but it was difficult since the HA was about 71 degrees or so. I had no idea that I might want/need a different bike to make that kind of riding more fun and manageable. Once I rode a 67 degree HA bike down those same trails I was SOLD! I went out and bought my first Yeti that next week and have never looked back.

    In addition I find the extra few pounds to be a benefit. My bike is still light for a nearly 6'' bike at around 31lbs with a 160mm coil fork, maybe a tad less, so I can still attack the climbs and it feels confident going down.

  11. #11
    CoolArrow
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    Another vote for the Reign (I come from a bmx/freestyle background as well).

    I went from no suspension to 4, and then and ended up getting a Reign near the end of the season. The extra suspension helps out a bunch on the downs and some of the techy stuff... and if you have a trance then you already know that the Reign will climb better than most others. The extra two inches will be a very obvious - and positive - change for the better.

    I don't regret it at all, except that now I'm wanting even more suspension for riding steeper downhill trails! (used faith frame is on the way )

  12. #12
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    If you're feeling ambivalent you might wanna check out Scott Ransom. You get to choose between locked out, 4 or 6.5 inches of rear wheel travel with the flick of a switch on the handlebar.

  13. #13
    Ride and Smile
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    went from 3 to 4 to 5 to 6 and then recently to 8 and every jump was a big improvement. Still pedal up and REALLY love going around and down!

  14. #14
    fux
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    I sold my Rocky mountain SXC when I bought my Niner hardtail.




    At the end of the day, its not the bike but the rider.

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  15. #15
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    the bike has a huge impact on the ride. show me anyone winning downhill races on a rigid singlespeed, or heading up the leadville 100 on an 8 inch freeride bike. theres definitely a compromise, and you definitely give up something, somewhere changing travel.. im just trying to not give up too much.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by fux
    I sold my Rocky mountain SXC when I bought my Niner hardtail.




    At the end of the day, its not the bike but the rider.

    You're gonna have to show us some pics of you hitting some bigger stuff that that pic if you want us to believe you can rock the same terrain as a Full-sus AM bike with as much style, ease, aggressiveness and control on your hoola-hoop 29'er. I could do what your doing in that pic on a fully rigid wal-mart bike.
    Back your words up with some real pics, so we don't think you're full of $h!t.

  17. #17
    fux
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    Its a back to the roots thing for me.

    I also race XC, so I needed I bike I could do it all on.

    show me anyone winning downhill races on a rigid singlespeed, or heading up the leadville 100 on an 8 inch freeride bike. theres definitely a compromise, and you definitely give up something, somewhere changing travel
    Yes obviously, I gave up 6 inch of travel! The thing for me is that I hate pushing and the thumb rule is the more travel you have, the more you`re gonna push.

    Quite a few of the fellas I ride with have Cube Stereo`s (4 inchers), and they fly. You say yourself that you` re a old smooth BMX`er, why upp the travel if you want slacker angles? Have you looked at commencial? I think the newer bikes have adjustable head angles.
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  18. #18
    fux
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    Quote Originally Posted by delnorte
    You're gonna have to show us some pics of you hitting some bigger stuff that that pic if you want us to believe you can rock the same terrain as a Full-sus AM bike with as much style, ease, aggressiveness and control on your hoola-hoop 29'er. I could do what your doing in that pic on a fully rigid wal-mart bike.
    Back your words up with some real pics, so we don't think you're full of $h!t.
    hoolahoop wallmart what?

    Why the hate? If I posted the same picture, with me on my slayer....



    You proberbly wouldn`t have bat an eyelid..... I used to race downhill on a hardtail back in the day we all did and even did a few world cups. I thought this was the AM board, not the freeride/downhill, prove to me what you can do board.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fux
    hoolahoop wallmart what?

    Why the hate? If I posted the same picture, with me on my slayer....



    You proberbly wouldn`t have bat an eyelid..... I used to race downhill on a hardtail back in the day we all did and even did a few world cups. I thought this was the AM board, not the freeride/downhill, prove to me what you can do board.
    Not hating. Just saying that that pic you posted as back-up for your comment wasn't really anything to show how much anyone rips on a hardtail. I have a hardtail too. It's the bike I'll hang onto the longest. I'm not literally asking for proof, just saying your example wasn't good proof.
    If you were doing the same on your Slayer I'd still say the same thing.
    But I'm gonna send some love out. Not hate. I see how my last comment reads too aggressive. Sorry.
    The rider/bike argument is as old as any phrase out there. Same bad-a$$ rider can still do more aggressive terrain on his 6 inch bike than his bad-a$$ can do on his own hardtail. Same goes for the intermediate rider.
    Sweet Slayer, by the way.

  20. #20
    fux
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    Yeah, I sold that piece of crap slayer for the hula hoops...



    I would say the rider bike debate should play a large role in this fella`s choice of bike. He says he is smooth and doesn`t brake parts, why should he opt for a 6 incher?

    On the other hand, he is asking. So he will proberbly turn up on a nomad next week whatever the advice he gets here.
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  21. #21
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    i can ride everything on my 4 inch bike.. i hit trails that i see guys doing on 8 inch bikes.. thats basically a moot point.

    its more fun with more travel.. thats all. im out for fun, not timing myself or racing other people.. just s' and giggles. if i can run a more fun bike that still pedals up nearly as well, ill be all over it! the reigns are half the price of the blurs.. i really need to find someone to let me pedal around a reign.

    im not going to end up on anything until i can ride it on my local uphill death climb.. im in no rush.. a nomad is definitely too much bike.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    i can ride everything on my 4 inch bike.. i hit trails that i see guys doing on 8 inch bikes.. thats basically a moot point.

    its more fun with more travel.. thats all. im out for fun, not timing myself or racing other people.. just s' and giggles. if i can run a more fun bike that still pedals up nearly as well, ill be all over it! the reigns are half the price of the blurs.. i really need to find someone to let me pedal around a reign.

    im not going to end up on anything until i can ride it on my local uphill death climb.. im in no rush.. a nomad is definitely too much bike.
    Just get out on a Reign for a day & you'll be sold. I was on a loaner Reign that my buddy hooked me up with in Whistler this fall. I fell in love with that bike. If I didn't find such an unreal deal on my current AM bike, I'd be on a Reign right now. Do yourself a favor and test ride one.
    As far as the hoola-hooper saying you don't need the extra travel, I consider myself a pretty smooth rider as well, but I love more travel. Sure i don't NEED it, but I certainly LOVE it. To me its way more fun and climbing doesn't really matter. I climb everything the rest of my buddies do with no complaints. Check out more travel, you'll like it - Even if you are a bad-a$$ rider already.

  23. #23
    I dig trails!
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    I was going to joke and say: My only regret is not going 6" sooner.

    But if you BMXed, you got some skills. Slacker geometry is one thing, amount of travel is another, make sure you separate the two.

    My next bike will be slack but shorter and progressive travel, as it fits my skills and the terrain I ride.

    If your smooth (if you BMXed, you are) you will make a trail bike sing more so than a lesser skilled rider on a Am rig.

    Skills trump the bike so you are in a unique situation.

    I suggest test riding rigs as much as you can, as your skills are most likely beyond most that MTB, so our comments are of limited use to you.

    Let us know what you rock.

    P

  24. #24
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    If you want slacker just add a longer travel fork - Pike maybe. If you need more travel because your trails dictate yes you can descend faster on a longer travel bike. I have ridden 4-8" travel bikes and each had its merits and choosing the right bike for the terrain was key for maximum enjoyment. My current 140mm bike is an excellent all around trail bike. If I ride XC 3- 4" makes sense, Trail 5-6", AM 6"+, DH 7" + - just guestimates. Sure a Pro could take a HT and whoop most riders but just looking @ the best tool for the job.

  25. #25
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    Not disappointed but slightly underwelmed. "Six and six" bikes are kind of been over hyped as do it all, wonder bikes of the new millennium but Im not a "do it all, wonder rider of the new millennium" kind of guy.

  26. #26
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    anyone else really want short travel, slack angles?

    66* HTA with 140mm travel front and rear. 44" wheelbase, 16.5" chainstays. 13.5" BB height. 15" seat tube with a 22.5" top tube for me, please!

    mmmmm, yeah, that would rock!

    the new corsair marque looks pretty damn close for that.
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  27. #27
    fux
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    Quote Originally Posted by keen
    If you want slacker just add a longer travel fork - Pike maybe. If you need more travel because your trails dictate yes you can descend faster on a longer travel bike. I have ridden 4-8" travel bikes and each had its merits and choosing the right bike for the terrain was key for maximum enjoyment. My current 140mm bike is an excellent all around trail bike. If I ride XC 3- 4" makes sense, Trail 5-6", AM 6"+, DH 7" + - just guestimates. Sure a Pro could take a HT and whoop most riders but just looking @ the best tool for the job.
    Thats not a bad Idea. I had a pike on my slayer too. The thing is that I didn`t find u-turn very "on the fly" freindly. How would the ac of a tallas36 do here? Could be cheeper than a whole new bike....
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by keen
    If you want slacker just add a longer travel fork - Pike maybe. If you need more travel because your trails dictate yes you can descend faster on a longer travel bike. I have ridden 4-8" travel bikes and each had its merits and choosing the right bike for the terrain was key for maximum enjoyment. My current 140mm bike is an excellent all around trail bike. If I ride XC 3- 4" makes sense, Trail 5-6", AM 6"+, DH 7" + - just guestimates. Sure a Pro could take a HT and whoop most riders but just looking @ the best tool for the job.
    i have over an inch longer fork, 130 from the stock 100.. besides that it kinda just sounds like you through out a bunch of action words.. i run "dh" trails on my little 4 inch bike.. "AM" is kind of just a cheesy catch phrase these days.. im just looking for a fun bike to ride, that doesnt compromise, much if any. i appreciate the input, but im not all that concerned about labels delnorte said it well, im just looking for a bike i LOVE to ride. i really dig my trance, i just feel like im missing out juuuust a little on stability.

    i think trails are either just trails, or "show up in armor and a big bike" trails.. im not looking to show up in armor.

    anyone in norcal with a reign wanna switch rides? ill buy lunch/beer

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by delnorte
    6" is way better... you can ride all day w/ 6".
    I think I found my new signature line.

  30. #30
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    Santa Cruz Blur TO Yeti 575

    I had a Santa Cruz Blur with 4" of travel. It was a great bike, but did not meet my needs. I now have a Yeti 575 and it is awesome. Believe it or not it handles better than the Blur and can ride on much more technical trails with ease!

  31. #31
    COOL BUZZ & TASTY S-TRACK
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    For me the most noticeable was travel change was from my 4 inch XC (Specialized FSR) to a 5 inch + all mountain bike (Heckler). This is taken into consideration the difference of the bikes weights & performance, my endurance, riding ability and skills.

    My next move was to a 6 1/2 inch travel all mountain Nomad. Another big difference in weight and performance. The Nomad is a super bike to ride but I found the extra 2 lbs + weight and 1 travel wasn't as important to me.

    So I ended up buying another Heckler and built it up as a light weight all mountain bike. I'm keeping the Nomad because it's a super bike and still has it's place in my stable when needed.

    But I would say for my average rides, the 5 inch lighter weight bike suits my needs better than a heavier 6 inch bike.
    I can fix it............... my dad has an awesome set of tools

  32. #32
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    I like how different folks are pulled toward one kind of bike or another. I'm kinda hoping that people will start to see the benefit of long travel trail bikes built to go down hill. I want to see more bikes like the Canfield One. 8" of travel and a lightweight frame. But reading this thread shows me that there are still lots of folks who are prefer steeper angles, less travel, and a rougher ride. Well as long as its fun, then it doesn't matter what you ride!

  33. #33
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Uh, reality check: not everyone's trails need 8" of travel or a 64-65* HTA. Hell, my 6" bike with a 66* HTA is overkill on most of my trails.

    I don't want to pedal more bike than that around, and don't feel I need to compensate for the areas of skill I lack by riding more bike. Hell, the bikes I have now are more than I "need" to ride my stuff.

    Quote Originally Posted by axolotl
    I like how different folks are pulled toward one kind of bike or another. I'm kinda hoping that people will start to see the benefit of long travel trail bikes built to go down hill. I want to see more bikes like the Canfield One. 8" of travel and a lightweight frame. But reading this thread shows me that there are still lots of folks who are prefer steeper angles, less travel, and a rougher ride. Well as long as its fun, then it doesn't matter what you ride!
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  34. #34
    ride hard take risks
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    besides that it kinda just sounds like you through out a bunch of action words.. i run "dh" trails on my little 4 inch bike..

    Dont think keen was throwing down action words, dude can rip on 2-8"+ travel, he's got flow
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  35. #35
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    Its not like people wouldn't see the benefit of 8" of travel going downhill.
    But they see the drawbacks as well. After all, a trailbike is supposed to go up as well as down. And not just a short distance to some kind of local mini-trail or spot. It should work for all day rides with 3000+ vertical meters. If you can't pedal the thing up technical trails, its not much use as a trailbike.

    Right now, there are a handfull of boutique frames which "might" just work as 8" trailbikes. (Canfield one, Fusion Whiplash, Bionicon Ironwood, Liteville 901, Intense..) All those frames are incredibly expensive and would need even more expensive components to keep the weight in check. If you need to spend 7000$+ on the bike to keep the weight acceptable, its not an option for most riders.
    Plus, there are no decent options for 8" forks that could be lowered for going uphill. There aren't even any useful 7" forks for that kind of bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by axolotl
    I like how different folks are pulled toward one kind of bike or another. I'm kinda hoping that people will start to see the benefit of long travel trail bikes built to go down hill. I want to see more bikes like the Canfield One. 8" of travel and a lightweight frame. But reading this thread shows me that there are still lots of folks who are prefer steeper angles, less travel, and a rougher ride. Well as long as its fun, then it doesn't matter what you ride!

  36. #36
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    This is kinda wierd...I just finished my Komodo build with a Domain and I'm thinking that I made a mistake. I could probably keep the Komodo built the way it is...only go with a Marz 4x WC fork (2008 was 4lbs) and go from 2.5/2.35" Stick-E Nevegal's to a 2.35/2.35 DTC and save myself almost 3lbs and give myself a more efficient short travel AM bike or tough XC'er.

    I have a cruddy XC bike that is about 5-6lbs lighter and I can fly over stuff alot easier b/c I can maintain momentum and accelerate quicker.

  37. #37
    Its got what plants crave
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    I don't regret a thing. I was out-riding the limits of my 4" bike (Cannondale Jekyll with Fox Van 32) and decided to go up in travel. Wouldn't go back unless I were an exclusively XC guy.. which I'm not. I still have a 4" Kikapu for XC riding but it sits in the corner more than my Coiler.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groffball
    I built up a 5.5" bike the end of last season, then over the winter I built up a 4" bike that is about 5 lbs lighter so I figured I would ride that at some of the tamer spots I ride at. Well so far I always go for the 5.5" bike so much in fact I'm thinking about selling off my 4" bike after only about half a dozen rides
    Uh oh, I've just been building up a 4" bike for a xc steed.
    Have fun!

  39. #39
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    my girlfriend rides a kikapu with a 130mm fork.. its like a 66 or 67 degree HA with that thing it works perfect for her though..

    This is kinda wierd...I just finished my Komodo build with a Domain and I'm thinking that I made a mistake. I could probably keep the Komodo built the way it is...only go with a Marz 4x WC fork (2008 was 4lbs) and go from 2.5/2.35" Stick-E Nevegal's to a 2.35/2.35 DTC and save myself almost 3lbs and give myself a more efficient short travel AM bike or tough XC'er.
    i built a chameleon a while ago.. everyone said at my weight (195) i should just build strong because weight didnt matter.. so on went the azonic outlaws, 2.35 tires, 230 gram tubes.. a 5lbs 130mm fork.. and man, that thing was a boat anchor.. great for killing knees. when i switched to my nearly 6lbs lighter trance, it was like being on a rocketship... and none of my WAY lighter parts ever broke on the trance. i think i learned to build light and ride smooth.

    i was out riding today.. i noticed how deep in the travel my stupid talas rides.. i could dump it on ebay and pickup a minute 140 with change left over.. i think i might just do that.. should, effectively, give me tons more travel and a slacker HA.

  40. #40
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    Tomsmoto- As you've seen, it's a bit of a question of what you want.

    Part of the fun about bicycling is making them go over things you never thought they'd go over. If you visit the rigid forum, you'll find plenty of people who've gone from FS to rigid and love the challenge. Other people try to find a mtb that is like a mx motorcycle.

    As you've probably heard ad naseum, rent one for a Saturday and see what YOU think.
    Have fun!

  41. #41
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    found rental reign x's.. still looking for a normal reign.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wheelspeed
    Tomsmoto- As you've seen, it's a bit of a question of what you want.
    i definitely know what i want.. i want an 8 inch bike that climbs like a 3 inch xc racer pretty much impossible, im trying to get the most travel from the slackest bike without giving up *too* much climbing over your average 4 inch bike..

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    pretty much impossible, im trying to get the most travel from the slackest bike without giving up *too* much climbing over your average 4 inch bike..
    Not sure you'd be giving up anything.

    My 575 is a far, far better climber than my old xc bike. If you're talking about hours of fire road, in the saddle climbing, then the xc bike was better, I guess. But otherwise, no contest.

  44. #44
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    picked up a brand new minute platinum it, 20mm axle, for 216 ill probably get 1.5 inches more travel out of this thing than my talas!

    i got a feeling this will do it.. if not, i guess i can start frame shopping.

  45. #45
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    I don't think you'll give up anything either. I had a kona kikapu 3.5" xc bike, I tried to burl it out with a Pike fork, shorter stem etc because like you are experiencing, it is much harder on it to decend quickly and in a stable, controlled manner. I saved up and yes, bought a reign, and what do you know? it climbed just as quickly on the road, and much better on techy trail climbs. It does weigh about 2-3 pounds more but that is a minimal compromise for going to a true AM bike.

    I think I have really found the sweet spot now with a 36 talas fork, an adjustable seat post and 2.35" and 2.1" tires. My bike is about 32 pounds and feels fairly light, is nimble and I never need to push. I can keep climbing all day.

    to note, 2 of my riding buddies own trances and do climb faster than I, but they have 1.95" inch xc tires, clip-in pedals and 4-5" forks. I absolutely leave them behind on any sort of tech or high speed DH because of the BIKE, but I am rarely more than 15 minutes behind on an hour and a half near vertical climb.

    You should ride the regular reign for sure because the X will be heavier if it has a coil shock and burlier tire/wheelset. Won't give you the same impression.



    Good luck!
    OVER THE LINE SMOKEY!

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Groffball
    I built up a 5.5" bike the end of last season, then over the winter I built up a 4" bike that is about 5 lbs lighter so I figured I would ride that at some of the tamer spots I ride at. Well so far I always go for the 5.5" bike so much in fact I'm thinking about selling off my 4" bike after only about half a dozen rides
    Didn't differentiate your bikes enough! Not surprising you still choose the 5.5" over the 4" even for the tamer stuff. It probably rides just as well as the 4" on the smooth stuff. So sell the 4" and get a rigid ss. Your second bike then will be cheaper to buy and maintain, and really give you something different to ride when you want to mix it up.
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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    right now i have a trance with a 32 talas up front, so 4/5 travel.. i raced bmx for years so im pretty smooth, and run a fairly xc setup (no weeny parts, but they're lighter duty stuff.. 450g rims and 2.1 nevs, etc) without breaking many parts.

    i like the bike, but id like it more slack.. i know im going to give up a little speed with more travel, but i think id feel more secure on a longer travel bike on some downhill grunts. it doesnt look like id be adding more than 2lbs total with a couple more inches in the rear.

    anyone switch over to a longer travel bike and regret doing so?

    considering a reign or blur lt.. or another similar bike.
    Um... no. What were you hoping to gain from the answers?

  48. #48
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    sure you could go out and chop trees down with an axe but if you use a chainsaw you might get to the fun part of your day quicker and better rested. I ride my Mob on singletrack trails and smooth drops but my Covert lets me cut new more challenging trails in more of a "hell I'll try that line!" kinda way. I still ride bmx at a track with my 6yr old, too!
    If you raced bmx and you see something you wanna boost that's rough you'll like the extra squish of 5-6". ...how do you want to cut those trees down?....the ss HT idea is a good one, though for a completely different set-up. I'v got a TransAm HT, also.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover
    anyone else really want short travel, slack angles?

    66* HTA with 140mm travel front and rear. 44" wheelbase, 16.5" chainstays. 13.5" BB height. 15" seat tube with a 22.5" top tube for me, please!

    mmmmm, yeah, that would rock!

    the new corsair marque looks pretty damn close for that.
    Short progressive travel, slack angles, low BB and high torsional stiffness, yes please. I'll trade my 6x6 for that as soon as I find something that fits what I'm after. I've also been looking at Corsair btw..

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by markw1970
    Um... no. What were you hoping to gain from the answers?
    um. i thought it was pretty straight forward what i was asking and looking for. if you dont get it, thats cool too. we dont all have to understand.

    If you raced bmx and you see something you wanna boost that's rough you'll like the extra squish of 5-6". ...how do you want to cut those trees down?....the ss HT idea is a good one, though for a completely different set-up. I'v got a TransAm HT, also.
    id love to pickup another bmx to play around with, maybe just for nostalgia i tired the mtb hardtail thing, its not for me.. beat me up too much, too much fatigue after a choppy trail.

    I don't think you'll give up anything either. I had a kona kikapu 3.5" xc bike, I tried to burl it out with a Pike fork, shorter stem etc because like you are experiencing, it is much harder on it to decend quickly and in a stable, controlled manner. I saved up and yes, bought a reign, and what do you know? it climbed just as quickly on the road, and much better on techy trail climbs. It does weigh about 2-3 pounds more but that is a minimal compromise for going to a true AM bike.
    awesome, thats something i can relate to.. your bike looks great btw!

  51. #51
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    No worries... I certainly didn't want to cause any offence. I just didn't get where you were coming from. If you're not happy with a 6 incher that's fine - If you prefer a hardtail instead that's fine. No judgement from me. It's just that all I could see people posting was "yes, I'm happy" or "no, I'm not happy"... I didn't think there was much to gain from that.

    Enjoy whatever you ride - cheers

  52. #52
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    i was looking for honest answers, like what moshelove posted.. went from a 4 inch to a 6 inch, maybe gave up a little climbing but not enough to make it not worth it. sounds good to me.

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    right now i have a trance with a 32 talas up front, so 4/5 travel.. i raced bmx for years so im pretty smooth, and run a fairly xc setup (no weeny parts, but they're lighter duty stuff.. 450g rims and 2.1 nevs, etc) without breaking many parts.

    i like the bike, but id like it more slack.. i know im going to give up a little speed with more travel, but i think id feel more secure on a longer travel bike on some downhill grunts. it doesnt look like id be adding more than 2lbs total with a couple more inches in the rear.

    anyone switch over to a longer travel bike and regret doing so?

    considering a reign or blur lt.. or another similar bike.
    If you like the bike but want it more slack, could you go with a longer fork?

    As far as mo-travel mo-betta, I went to a 6" bike for a while, and while it was a little better in some of the roughest terrain, I found that a 5" bike was more versatile. All the extra suspension is nice, I guess, but I found I'm a little more in control of a shorter travel bike, and it's better for longer rides and steeper climbs. YMMV, but that's my experience.

    I think geometry has WAY more to do with what a bike is good at than travel.

  54. #54
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    I have to agree with kapusta. Having ridden a Meta6 for fairly agressive xc all mountain I thought my Covert at a little shorter travel did much better all around. The geometry that happens with a shorter travel is more responsive given the terrain and rider are doing what the bike was intended for. I think your skill and where you want to progress is the deciding factor. Your style however, may influence the brand you pick in regards to geometries and linkage systems.

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by markw1970
    If you're not happy with a 6 incher that's fine
    I know I'm not! Muhahaha.

    My Reign is 6" and 5.5" and it feels just about perfect for what I ride over on it, but might consider a 6" fork when I have the money.

  56. #56
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    hehe, you guys should read the whole thread... new forks in the mail. 140mm minute platinum, with a proper 20mm axle

    ill be running it way over stock, im mildly concerned about all that stress on the headtube.. but the pierced tube trance is like a little mini xc freeride bike, its burly as hell never seen a broken one, but id sure not like to be the first..

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwiffle
    Didn't differentiate your bikes enough! Not surprising you still choose the 5.5" over the 4" even for the tamer stuff. It probably rides just as well as the 4" on the smooth stuff. So sell the 4" and get a rigid ss. Your second bike then will be cheaper to buy and maintain, and really give you something different to ride when you want to mix it up.
    I was actually thinking about picking up a hardtail 29er... I already have a SS 26" Inbred
    I Ride Bikes.

  58. #58
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    If the fork doesn't quite do it.

    I had a Trek Fuel with 4 " of travel that was great. I wanted to smooth out the bumps so I put a 85-130 revelation Uturn fork on it and like the improvement, but it was still not enough. That winter I bought a 07' Yeti 575 frame (RP23) and in the spring cut 5 min. off my best time on a 2 hr (12+ mile) loop with out even being in prime riding shape (I was able to take another couple min. off after riding for a while that season). The first hour and a half of the loop is climbing and 3 of the 5 min. reduction came during the climb. I noticed the improved climbing immediately. I believe a big part of the climbing improvement came from the rear suspension taking square hits in stride. Each riders situation is unique but I have not once wished I had the Fuel back.

  59. #59
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    No regrets

    but I do miss the better jump control (take off ) that my 4.5" bike had

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nosajnh
    I had a Trek Fuel with 4 " of travel that was great. I wanted to smooth out the bumps so I put a 85-130 revelation Uturn fork on it and like the improvement, but it was still not enough. That winter I bought a 07' Yeti 575 frame (RP23) and in the spring cut 5 min. off my best time on a 2 hr (12+ mile) loop with out even being in prime riding shape (I was able to take another couple min. off after riding for a while that season). The first hour and a half of the loop is climbing and 3 of the 5 min. reduction came during the climb. I noticed the improved climbing immediately. I believe a big part of the climbing improvement came from the rear suspension taking square hits in stride. Each riders situation is unique but I have not once wished I had the Fuel back.
    Balancing travel front and rear I think is over rated. Personally I can soak up much bigger hits with my legs then with my arms. Some people who like a super responsive ride (like a pro 4x racer I know) the rear suspension just takes the sting out of ground smashing advents while still allowing input and feel.

  61. #61
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    I went from a 4" Truth to various 5.5 - 6" bikes for a reason I haven't seen mentioned yet - I'm getting older (47) and was just getting beat up too much on the Truth, especially my lower back. So the extra cush and more upright seating position has been the perfect medicine. Plus I have always been a stronger climber than descender and of course the slacker angles/longer travel helps there too. No regrets whatsoever.

  62. #62
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    Not at all. The more travel I get the faster I seem to go. I push my 38lb. 6.5x7 bike on all day XC epics as well as the FR/DH trails. I'm sure I'm a tad slower on the climbs but it's well worth it for the ability to rip downhill as fast as I can and take any line I want w/o worrying about crashing or breaking my bike.

    I used to be a semi-weight weenie while I was playing around with 4 to 5" travel bikes and I kept on breaking them and the lightweight parts. As my bike got beefier and my frames had more travel I found I could ride more aggressively. The burlier stiffer frame along with the slack angles has given me the confidence to push my bike faster and faster. People love to point out that my bike is overbuilt for our trails but I put that theory to rest when I hit the big drop or steep roller that they won't hit and then beat them to the top next hill. I do have a 4x4 bike that I only use for endurance races as those trails are basically roads with some dirt on top. Once in awhile I take it out on my trails and I'm amazed at how much slower and less aggressive I am with it. There are times where I'll tear up a hill like it's nothing, which is cool, but that's tempered with not being able to hit the big lines or blast down rocky hills.

    I would love to see a burlier stiffer short travel XC frame. Something that could built up real light but still take some decent abuse.

  63. #63
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    My sweet spot was the 5" Trance X.

    I can keep up with my buddies on their light XC hardtail racers on the ups and then the downs are just comical, as I'm passing them like a Spartan warrior while they're white knuckling it, gettin beaten to death over the rough and burnin up their brakes. I then do anything my buddies with the 6" bikes do on hucking and I'm just as fast on the downs, but absolutely smoke them on the ups. They're usually stuck pushing while I'm cranking away to the top and then hit the rewarding downhill way before they get there. Albeit, rider fitness and skill come into play just as much as the bike does.

    The HA is 69.5 on the Trance X, but I want to get a Fox Talas 36 with 100-130-160mm adjustments. That versatility in HA and travel changes would make my bike perfect for me.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodyak
    I would love to see a burlier stiffer short travel XC frame. Something that could built up real light but still take some decent abuse.
    Check out the Trance X.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    picked up a brand new minute platinum it, 20mm axle, for 216 ill probably get 1.5 inches more travel out of this thing than my talas!

    i got a feeling this will do it.. if not, i guess i can start frame shopping.
    How do you expect to get another 1.5" of travel out of going from a 140mm fork to a 145mm fork? Do you think the Manitou will sink less into its travel? You think maybe with the Fox set up differently you could get the same setup?

    Just curious.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53119
    sure you could go out and chop trees down with an axe but if you use a chainsaw you might get to the fun part of your day quicker and better rested. I ride my Mob on singletrack trails and smooth drops but my Covert lets me cut new more challenging trails in more of a "hell I'll try that line!" kinda way. I still ride bmx at a track with my 6yr old, too!
    If you raced bmx and you see something you wanna boost that's rough you'll like the extra squish of 5-6". ...how do you want to cut those trees down?....the ss HT idea is a good one, though for a completely different set-up. I'v got a TransAm HT, also.

    I'm not sure what you personally are trying to say, but for me...I think I'm gonna prefer a more efficient, yet "tough enough" bike that I can pedal to the top easier and still enjoy the DH and jumps. This will allow me to get to the fun part of my ride quicker and more well rested...versus slogging all that extra weight and inefficiency across the flat sections and up the hill necessitating a good rest prior to the fun DH.

    I have reached a solution with my Komodo that will save me over 1/2 lbs of rotating weight + another minimum 2.6lbs of dead weight...and I only gave up 20mm of travel.

  67. #67
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    Less suspension = slower down hill rate of speed.
    Too many bikes, and just enough time to ride them.

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed
    How do you expect to get another 1.5" of travel out of going from a 140mm fork to a 145mm fork? Do you think the Manitou will sink less into its travel? You think maybe with the Fox set up differently you could get the same setup?

    Just curious.
    i have a talas 130mm, which sits incredibly low in its travel even with a lot of pressure.. was more like a 115-120mm fork. the minute is 140mm and sits pretty high up in its travel from what it feels like.

    plus the talas was very flexy.. much moreso than my qr reba. this 20mm minute should make it feel like noodle in comparison.

  69. #69
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    I went from a 4" to a 5" bike and I have never looked back. Best investment I ever made, and now that I have a DHX coil, it just keeps getting better.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    i have a talas 130mm, which sits incredibly low in its travel even with a lot of pressure.. was more like a 115-120mm fork. the minute is 140mm and sits pretty high up in its travel from what it feels like.

    plus the talas was very flexy.. much moreso than my qr reba. this 20mm minute should make it feel like noodle in comparison.

    I had a Vanilla 130 for 2-3yrs (same chassis as your Talas 130) and I can't say that I thought it was all that flexy. I have been riding a 55 and Domain lately with a 20mm TA and def. notice a lateral stiffness increase, but I never noticed flex with the Fox.

    I hope I don't get disapointed going back to a 9mmQR with this new OEM 2008 Float RL.


    The thing that I don't understand is that you're saying the fork rides low in its travel...shouldn't you add enough air for the fork to have proper sag? In essence being in control of how low it sinks when not hitting bumps? Or is it that the Fox was "too progressive"...like with proper sag, it would ramp up too harshly in the end of stroke and not get full travel? And when you get it set to get full travel...it had too much sag?


    Am I close?

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by delnorte
    Ummmm.... HELL NO. I don't care about weight so that won't be an issue for me. 6" is way better. There are plenty of bikes out there that you can ride all day w/ 6".
    By the way, skip the Blur. Go for the Reign. Reigns absolutely rock. Blurs are meh.
    Flame away, Blur riders.

    On the Reign, got the 09 version with a bigger fork (Lyrik) and love it- so confidence inspiring!

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by chelboed

    The thing that I don't understand is that you're saying the fork rides low in its travel...shouldn't you add enough air for the fork to have proper sag? In essence being in control of how low it sinks when not hitting bumps? Or is it that the Fox was "too progressive"...like with proper sag, it would ramp up too harshly in the end of stroke and not get full travel? And when you get it set to get full travel...it had too much sag?
    i run less sag than i should just to keep the fork up. im convinced its the talas unit.

    it ramps up alright.. hitting jumps and drops its definitely alright, takes those really well actually. it just DIVES through its travel when braking hard downhill.

    its not a bad fork by any means.. im just not getting 130mm out of it. its a good fork, its a perfect replacement for a 4 inch bike..

    im sure push could have solved that.. but for very marginally more money, i just got a better fork

    theres a blur LT for 999 brand new, with warranty at the lbs. in orange. i have a soft spot for orange santa cruz bikes i bought my first santa cruz chameleon because i couldnt afford the blur lt. i got my trance because i couldnt afford the blur lt.. i think its time i just bought the blur lt. i know that thing fits me like a glove and pedals like mad.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by markw1970
    If you're not happy with a 6 incher that's fine
    my new signature. haha. its perfect.

  74. #74
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    Only my wallet did not like it.

  75. #75
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    hmm, 575's are pretty affordable used.. such a nice bike too

  76. #76
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    I went from only riding a 4"/100mm FS to choosing between a 6"/160mm AM rig and a light ti hardtail and enjoy both a lot. I have concluded that having a one bike does all does not work all too well. I think I will also get a 3" travel 29r for long rides. As I do not do DH and dirt jumping, that would be a complete set..

  77. #77
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    test rode a well spec'd reign with a nixon.. just didnt like it, felt weird. handled awkwardly. gave a trancex a shot again, that bike feels great! theres about 500000 spacers on the fork so the bars sit high, but ignoring that (easy fix) it felt really nice. i liked the trancex about as much as the BLT, and the trancex is much cheaper.. i think im sold, split the difference and go 5 inches

  78. #78
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    Great thread. I ride a Heckler (5.5" Rear / 6" fork) and I am happy with the travel on this bike. Awesome bike for my wants, I can climb it up just about anyting even though it's setup as 1X9.. I've been thinking of trying another frame with about the same travel. Maybe something like the DW-Link suspension - just something other than single pivot. Hmm, decisions, decisions.

  79. #79
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    ^ did you own an MR2 by any chance?

    riding a medium today reminded me how poorly my small fits! im sold heh.

  80. #80
    sofa king awsm
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    I guess you've got to weigh the following three factors and realize one of the areas is going to suffer for the benefit of the other two: price, weight, travel. I don't (and won't) do drops bigger than 3 feet and I want something light that climbs like a goat on crack but with enough cushion for my aging screwed up back. I think a 4" FS would do me just fine. I like the Rocky Mountain Element 50 in particular.

    6" would be cool, but I don't think I'd take full advantage of the travel and am not interested in the weight or price penalty.

  81. #81
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    Get a used ellsworth id frame with 5.75" in the rear. Nice and light.

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