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  1. #1
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    The Anti-Weight Weenie Thread: Adding Weight to Your Bike

    With almost everyone constantly doing everything to drop weight in search of the lightest bike possible, I'm curious to know how many of you have added weight to your bike in order to make it more capable. I figured it would be fun to talk about the opposite end of the spectrum for once.

    I took my Pivot Mach 5.7 from 28 lbs to around 30.3 lbs. I definitely worry about my bike less on very technical trails now. Here's what I thought were worthwhile weight additions.

    -Specialized Command Post BlackLite to get that seat out of the way on steep technical sections and drops
    -Beefy, High Volume tubeless tires at 800+ grams each for better grip and more protection through rocky terrain
    -203mm rotor front, 180mm rotor rear for the long descents, really steep trails, or just those oh sh*t moments
    -725mm bar cause narrow ones just don't cut it.

    What are some of your worthwhile weight additions?
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  2. #2
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    I would probably just gain more weight since it is so much fun eatting. I had a friend that says that losing weight is cheaper than thousands of dollars spent on lighter equipment.

  3. #3
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    Sure, adjustable seatpost, wider bar, stronger wheelset.

  4. #4
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    Coil fork and shock adds a 1.5 lbs (ti) to 2.5 lbs (steel).
    AM cranks such as Saint or Afterburner or Hammershmit
    Chain guide
    Remote drop post
    wide rims and tires

  5. #5
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    i felt this way for awhile, but now lately i've taken up with a group of guys that ride technical, tough trails but with hardtail 29ers. And while I love my Enduro, on these group rides i'm getting my ass kicked, and it's rough on the ego. Much of it is probably that they are better all round riders, but man, I must have 10/12 pounds more bike. It's so true - you just need more than one bike

  6. #6
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    Went from a QR fork to a 6 pound (and change) Marz 55R with 20mm through axle. Add a cheap 20mm front wheel for even more weight. A few months later, when the 55R Suntour cartridge crapped out, I converted it to an open bath (more oil). Now, my 39 pound Reign is really, really, really front heavy.

    I've seen guys on 20+ year old rusty Schwins pass me both going up and down various trails and fireroads. I figure riding a heavy bike will help get me there.

  7. #7
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    When I had my wheels built, I was all-too-easily talked into shiny golden alloy nipples. In the last month I've shorn four of those. Had my wheel rebuilt yesterday with brass, as it should be. Alloy nipples don't belong on mountain bikes.

  8. #8
    Founder: Dirty3hirties
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    If possible, coilover fork and shock (dunno if Pivot allows a coil shock or even if it's possible).

  9. #9
    greedy
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    Went from 685mm carbon bars to 760mm aluminum. From 2.2 tires to 2.4. Adjustable seatpost.

    My riding partner has a Mojo that is down to 25 lbs. He's always joking that everytime he drops a pound, I add one. Sad thing is, I spend as much money adding weight as he does dropping it.

    Edit: I also put two FULL scoops of Stans in each tire. If I wanted to have to worry with flats, I wouldn't have gone tubeless.
    Addicted to the Classifieds

  10. #10
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    I don't think I've ever made a change to my bike that resulted in lower weight, I tend to build up a bike cautiously optimistic with parts from the lighter side of the spectrum and gradually add weight over time. the usual spots are tires and suspension. I'm currently contemplating/struggling to resist putting my Lyrik solo air DH back on my trailbike which currently has a 150mm Revelation. trying to tell myself the extra 10mm of travel and marginal stiffness gain is not worth the extra 1+ pounds. I also have a dropper post in the closet that will probably work its way back on the bike although for my riding (big ups followed by big downs) I'm less convinced of the value of a dropper.

    I don't think adding weight to your bike makes you an "anti weight weenie" unless you are adding stupidly heavy parts for the kind of riding you do. I try to run the lightest parts that will hold up to the abuse I dish out and give me the performance that I'm looking for. I think of myself as "weight conscious" more than a weight weenie though.

  11. #11
    usually cranky
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post

    -Specialized Command Post BlackLite
    how does that compare to a reverb? thinking of picking one up especially now that i ride a spec

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul View Post
    how does that compare to a reverb? thinking of picking one up especially now that i ride a spec
    Not as smooth or easy to operate as the Reverb, but it works well enough. The mid position is hard to find at times. The thing I like about it is in most cases when it fails it should still be usable. You should be able to pull it up to the top position and lock it since it uses a locking collet to lock it in place. The Reverb would just sink when it fails, leaving you to do a lot of standing pedaling. The Reverb wouldn't fit on this frame so I'm using the Speshy one. It's probably my "second-best" option, but probably the best option for back country/high country rides where I'd be worried about the Reverb failing.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by have2ride2day View Post
    Edit: I also put two FULL scoops of Stans in each tire. If I wanted to have to worry with flats, I wouldn't have gone tubeless.
    I also add extra Stan's for piece of mind.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  14. #14
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    in the process of adding a hammerschmidt which is probably gonna pork up my already tank of a mission

  15. #15
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    My second hand stock Whyte E4 so far is upto 28lb's :-

    More comfortable seat
    2.4 RR compared to a 2.1 Vapour Pro.
    2.3 Spesh Eskar front tire rather than another 2.1 Vapour Pro.

    The biggest difference I noticed was fitting a 180mm cheaper rotor on the front, the WW Hope rotor over heated like crazy, but doesn't fade on long descents so who cares.

    I expect stronger spokes and rims back and front soon

  16. #16
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    I went the other way My previous bikes were: bullit, heckler, 575 & blur LT. They were between 35 to 30lbs. I thought this is what I needed to go down hill fast in my area. My current bike is Mojo SL @ 25lbs and it goes down hill just as fast or faster in many section, but it climbs way better than any of my previous bikes

  17. #17
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    Remedy 9 stock was just over 29 pounds.
    Ditched the bontrager tires, went tubeless w/ 2.1 Nevegal rear/2.35 front w/ 2 scoops
    Race Face Atlas AM bar 28.5"
    KS Supernatural adj. seatpost.

    sitting @ 30.5 pounds and the bike rides so much better.
    2014 Tallboy 2

  18. #18
    biking is fun
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab View Post
    When I had my wheels built, I was all-too-easily talked into shiny golden alloy nipples. In the last month I've shorn four of those. Had my wheel rebuilt yesterday with brass, as it should be. Alloy nipples don't belong on mountain bikes.
    Probably a bad wheel build to begin with then, more than likely over tensioned. I have been running alloy nipples on every wheel build for the last 5 years with zero issues whatsoever. I use them on anything from my XC to DH bike. Do nasty rocky descents, hit up to 25 foot gaps and 15 foot drops. Haven't even broke one yet.

    As for gaining weight, The best place for improved stability is also the worst place for pedaling uphill, the wheels.

    For me, I can no longer run anything less than a fox 36 or lyrik. My bikes are build to ride XC but be able to hit any drop or gap that is on the way down. so I will gladly add weight for more security. Also coil rear shocks are always a huge improvement.

    Typically I like my AM bikes in the 30-33 lb range.

    And lastly, I don't buy into the whole just lose/gain weight instead of taking it off or adding it to your bike. I think it would actually have an opposite effect. For instance gaining a ton of weight on a light bike would make the bike even more squirelly and easier to break the bike. Adding a ton of weight high up (you) will make your center of gravity higher. In the reverse, if you are really lightweight and your bike weighs a ton it will be hard for you to control and maneuver. No one can tell me that losing 2 lbs of fat will equal losing 2 lbs of rotational mass from your tires or wheelset. Generally when you are trying to lose weight off your bike, losing iweight from the wheels or high up like the saddle, post, handle bars, etc is the most beneficial.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
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    08 Tr. Covert
    xfusion vengeance hlr
    steel coil ccdb
    Tr. Revolution 32s
    SLX drivetrain
    32lbish figure

    she's never been on weightwatchers so she rolls deep!
    don't sweat the petty things & don't pet the sweaty things

  20. #20
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    Some of the things mentioned in this thread aren't really anti weight weenie. They're just items you bought to make the bike fit you better, or items that set the bike up properly for the terrain you are riding. Having bars that are wide enough for your preferences/body size, an adjustable seatpost, and chain guides are not anti-weenie items. However, I'll play along.

    I use heavy ODI end plugs in case I seppuku myself with the handlebars.
    http://www.bikepartsplace.com/images/med/31865169.jpg

    I use four scoops of sealant per tire. I could get away with less, but unless I'm racing, I'd rather have enough in the tire to seal anything I feel like running over.

    I use rotors with aluminum carriers because for me, they stay true longer. This makes it easier to center my brakes and not have any rub. I also prefer rotors that have brake paths with less cutouts. Keeps my pads alive longer. These things translate to a heavy rotor.
    ***

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle2834 View Post
    Some of the things mentioned in this thread aren't really anti weight weenie. They're just items you bought to make the bike fit you better, or items that set the bike up properly for the terrain you are riding. Having bars that are wide enough for your preferences/body size, an adjustable seatpost, and chain guides are not anti-weenie items. However, I'll play along.
    It's just a fun thread. Don't over-analyze it. The title just got people to open it and read it is all. Besides, it's about increasing weight to better your ride instead of reducing weight. So, yes, anti-weight weenie. Weight Weenies often make sacrifices in durability and ride quality just to decrease weight.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  22. #22
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    I like the idea of the thread, I just didn't want to see a million people talk about what handlebars they use. I mean no offense to those that already said handlebars.

    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    Weight Weenies often make sacrifices in durability and ride quality just to decrease weight.
    Well, I think a distinction needs to be made here, since many of those making sacrifices in durability and ride quality do so for the purpose of a race bike.
    ***

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle2834 View Post
    I like the idea of the thread, I just didn't want to see a million people talk about what handlebars they use.
    True, I know what you mean. Handlebars often don't make that much difference in weight really, but it all adds up. I know tires made a huge difference with increasing weight for me (my rear tire is over 1.8 pounds by itself), but it was very much worth it for the increased rock protection, grip, and cush. I could run lighter tires with less tread, but I think it would hurt my riding rather than help it. Maybe if I didn't live in Colorado I could get away with a less beefy tire. I used to be obsessed with having my bike below 30 pounds, but almost everything I did or looked to do to reduce weight resulted in decreased capability or too high a cost for no real performance gains. Now I'm quite content with my bike at 30.3. It's just a number on a scale.
    Last edited by BaeckerX1; 09-07-2011 at 01:44 PM.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle2834 View Post
    I like the idea of the thread, I just didn't want to see a million people talk about what handlebars they use. I mean no offense to those that already said handlebars.


    Well, I think a distinction needs to be made here, since many of those making sacrifices in durability and ride quality do so for the purpose of a race bike.
    Heh. Not all. For some it's about status and having the lightest bike possible. Have you seen the weight weenie forum? Plus the marketing inundates us all. Anytime you pick up a bike magazine or read a bike website it's about how lightweight and great a frame or component is. I know it's easy to succumb to the weight weenie demons, but I also know my bike seems to perform better through rock gardens and such with a little junk in her trunk.
    Gotta get up to get down.
    LMB

  25. #25
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    Good thread man! I added weight in all the ways you did and more. An MRP chain guide, SLX boat anchor rear deraillure. $40 bucks couldn't pass it up. Nevegal 2.5 single casing tires. I like straight wheels so I just built a rear wheel with lazerdisk DH rim. Just added a heavier shock. Monarch rc3. Next season the totem gets a coil instead of air. I'm roughly at 35 lbs.

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