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  1. #1
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    All mountain awesome bike to replace Enduro

    I own a 2011 specialized enduro that's built up to about 34 pounds. Its the best bike I've ever ridden in the AM category for when the trail points down. However, it is a pig uphill. I've always owned a secondary bike like a TransAM 26" hardtail or a 29er hardtail for less technical rides but I'm looking for a bike that can replace my enduro and be a better pedaling bike but still have that super solid feel downhill.

    Is it possible or am I asking for too much? I rode the trek Remedy and Giant Reign but was genuinely unimpressed with their stability downhill. I love the slack geo going down but not up. I have a Talas 36 on my enduro. I want a bike that can hammer through the rough. The reign and remedy felt like a wet noodle compared to the enduro. What to do?
    Last edited by ihaveagibsonsg; 05-14-2013 at 12:42 PM.

  2. #2
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    You have a 29 lbs enduro and find it a pig uphill??
    Dude, mine is 30 lbs and thought I was quite pleased with the uphill pedaling capabilities, damn. I would have to agree on the downhill abilities of the bike, it's damn tough!

  3. #3
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    I have a 5 spot with a Lyric 160 DH which is nice. Not too slack I know its 29 or so but way stiff laterally! The 650B Turner Burner w the new Pike or 34 to get the 160 but in a lighter and slightly less stout package could be a good setup, its low slung. The DW is the best hammerhead pedaller I've tried, stand up and hammer and it all takes you forward, it might feel not as plush but rear shock setup is key, I'm running a Mon Plus Pushed and currently running the HV can w spacers prob going up to for sram spacers for midstroke and a better match to my fork.

  4. #4
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    There are a couple threads that compare the Chilcotin and Enduro:
    Chilcotin compared to Enduro
    Knolly Chilcotin or Specialized S-Works Enduro?

  5. #5
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    Go european brands...
    Light, and they do pedal uphill...

  6. #6
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    Re: All mountain awesome bike to replace Enduro

    Damn.com I have the same 2011 Enduro comp.com it weighs in at 33 pounds and I'm pretty happy about the weight. How did you get yours to 29? That would be awesome!

  7. #7
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    Mojo Hd goes uphill fast and shreds downhill

    Super Unknown

  8. #8
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    You have a trans am, so how about the new covert?

  9. #9
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    I was being way to conservative on the weight. It's actually closer to about 34 pounds the way its setup right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by dejock View Post
    You have a trans am, so how about the new covert?

    Ha, I literally just dropped my TransAm off at UPS to go to a new home. I'm looking at replacing it with the Diamondback Mason. I get a corporate discount that brings the complete bike to only $1500(normally $2200)! I was also thinking about replacing my enduro with the mission pro which I can get for $2900(normally $5500).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ihaveagibsonsg View Post
    I'm looking at replacing it with the Diamondback Mason. I get a corporate discount that brings the complete bike to only $1500(normally $2200)! I was also thinking about replacing my enduro with the mission pro which I can get for $2900(normally $5500).
    Assuming your discount is the same as mine, the Mason frames are in stock...damn good deal considering the seatpost alone is 3 bills! I looked at the mission and the sortie before I ended up on my bandit, the mission is a nice ride for sure.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by dejock View Post
    Assuming your discount is the same as mine, the Mason frames are in stock...damn good deal considering the seatpost alone is 3 bills! I looked at the mission and the sortie before I ended up on my bandit, the mission is a nice ride for sure.
    Yeah same discount. The mason complete for 1500 is a killer deal. It's out of stock at the moment but I'm going to wait for it. They have frames with the dropper post for 480 but the complete build is basically how I would build it anyway so I'm going to wait.

  12. #12
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    Run the small volume reducer in the Fox RP2, it firms up the midstroke so it does not sag deep on steep climbs.

    $25, 15 minute job, makes the bike more poppy as well and still slays the downs. Bottoming out is like landing on a couch.

    You'll have to reset your pressure lower and fiddle with rebound. You will also loose a bit of "plush" on rough descents - but I was glad to give that up to get rid of the wallow.

    P

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Run the small volume reducer in the Fox RP2, it firms up the midstroke so it does not sag deep on steep climbs.

    $25, 15 minute job, makes the bike more poppy as well and still slays the downs. Bottoming out is like landing on a couch.

    You'll have to reset your pressure lower and fiddle with rebound. You will also loose a bit of "plush" on rough descents - but I was glad to give that up to get rid of the wallow.

    P
    I'll try this out first. I love the bike, its just a bear on the long socal fireroads. I originally owned and enduro and sold it because it was a poor climber and bought most of the AM frames out there before I ended back up on an Enduro due to his downhill amazingness. I'm sure if I sell it again I'll regret it.

  14. #14
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    I don't think you're going to find a bike that's as planted going downhill and also climbs better uphill. If you go for something with a bit steeper head tube angle, you'll get better climbing but it's going to feel a bit more nervous on the descents. I REALLY like my Blur LT for climbing, but I know I sacrifice a little bit on the downhills, and that's by choice! I've ridden the slacker, longer travel bikes and they're just more work to get up the hill.

    What kind of riding do you do the most?
    "Got everything you need?"

  15. #15
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    If you are really concerned about climbing, have you tried the Scott Genius LT? The only downside is the proprietary rear shock. That said, it climbs well and descends well. You dont see many for sale in the used market so I assume they are well liked.

  16. #16
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    Sounds like you're in the market for a spitfire with a dual position pike.

  17. #17
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    What are you parts list? The enduro is a great frame, want to know if getting it lighter would help out. My HD is pretty weighted down and its 31.5, but it climbs well and decends better than one of my friends chilli. That is a nice frame, but its not the climber the HD is and his bike is a touch lighter but the frame is heavier. Although mine is really shock setup well which is why it decends so good.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by ihaveagibsonsg View Post
    I'll try this out first. I love the bike, its just a bear on the long socal fireroads. I originally owned and enduro and sold it because it was a poor climber and bought most of the AM frames out there before I ended back up on an Enduro due to his downhill amazingness. I'm sure if I sell it again I'll regret it.
    Also get a fast rolling tire on the back, that helps on long fire road climbs and flats:
    - Contintental Trail King
    - WTB Wolverine
    - Michelin Grip R2
    - Hans Dampf PaceStar
    all tested fast in the German Bike magazine tests

    I have my large Enduro at 31# with decent aluminum bits, no exotica. But weight is not really the issue with the climbing.

    P

  19. #19
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    Damn, mine is 33 pounds even and I don't really find it all that hard to climb with.
    I have also never had a bike that was lighter, so I guess I am used to it.

    In the end, it will only make you stronger to have to push it up.

    Mr P, what is you set up to get you to 31#? Is it a former stock comp? what did you change out?

    thanks,

    Jeff

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post
    Also get a fast rolling tire on the back, that helps on long fire road climbs and flats:
    - Contintental Trail King
    - WTB Wolverine
    - Michelin Grip R2
    - Hans Dampf PaceStar
    all tested fast in the German Bike magazine tests

    I have my large Enduro at 31# with decent aluminum bits, no exotica. But weight is not really the issue with the climbing.

    P
    Absolutely. Tires do make a huge difference.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stripes View Post
    But yeah, look at your body position first. It's amazing what a few millimeters will do if you're too high up.
    Great point on body position.

    The Enduro comes with a layback seatpost.

    I'm 5"11 and with the large Enduro am able to run a straight post. The benefit is a steeper effective seat tube angle for climbs. And less hanging off the back climbing. The further you are back on the climb the more leverage on the rear suspension to sag into travel which upsets climbing geometry.

    I've since been able to make most steeps that riders on XC bikes can. And I even have a 50mm stem pretty much slammed to the head tube.

    You can try this by just pushing the seat up on the rails.

    Moving the seat up + the shock volume adjustment + fast rear tire will be as far as you can go with this generation Enduro, after that your looking at other frames (but it is said the new Enduro climbs better) - but at least you'll know.

    P

  22. #22
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    I didn't have any big complaints w/ my '12 enduro with the stock shock, and it's even better with the Pushed Monarch +. But then mine weighs <30lbs with the big tires, and I'm running 1x10, so I can't grind out climbs in the granny gear. Maybe that's your problem - you're going too slow.
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  23. #23
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    I have a 2011 S-works and its at 27.5lbs with pedals(Mallets DH)....It climbs great and descents even better....only thing I would want to change is the rear shock. The fork although is a specialized creation does a really good job and is super light as well, using the carbon crown makes a big difference.

  24. #24
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    I added 20 PSI air to the rear shock. Climbs 100X better. I was running 35-40% sag and now I'm closer to 25-30%. I'm going to try the volume reducer mod to the rear shock. It's not as plush now, but its worth it to not suffer going up. It was definitely sitting too far into the shock during climbs. I'll just let some air out if its going to be a long ride down. I just love how solid this bike is in the rough. Even running that low of sag, I only bottom it out on 6ft+ drops. I've never even bottomed out the Fox 36 Talas fork at 35 PSI. I rode my friends new fuel ex 7 and the thing was noodle compared to the enduro, I could never go back to a bike that doesn't descend like an enduro.

    I already run a wolverine in the rear which I love. Fast rolling, locks up great and has a wide casing. I run a nevegal in the front, it's my favorite front tire and doesn't cost a million bucks.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iceman69 View Post
    Mojo Hd goes uphill fast and shreds downhill
    2nd this. I love my HD. In Colorado climbing efficiency is must, but I live for the downhills--HD meets my needs. With that said, I demoed a NomadC with downhill wheels/tires and that thing was insane on the downhills, yet I still cleared tough climbs that I couldn't make on my 26lb hardtail. Went with the HD 140 with a Fox 34 shimmed to 150 on the front, as I didn't think the terrain around here warranted 160mm travel front and rear. With a 2.5 single ply Minion on front, dropper post, and Arch wheels, I'm right around 29lbs.
    I'm always looking for new people to ride with. If you are on the Front Range, shoot me a PM and let's go ridin'.

  26. #26
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    I came to have this observation:

    Most "legal" trails in my area can be covered best in a typical short travel Xc or trail bike. AM can be the best or both worlds when you need a bit of everything but it could also be the worse choice between climbing ability, endurance rides vs downhill speed and gnarly lines. Put in a set of solid yet light rims and you will be surprised how far you can push the so called "XC" bike.

    I too sold my Enduro and kinda replaced it with a Rocky Mountain Element. This is for the usual trail and training rides which has so far proven to be very competent. It climbs better, and I can ride further and faster. On the downs, the 120 mm makes me more alert and I chose my line carefully. Maybe I am familiar with my local trails so it doesn't seem like a big change to me. With a lighter bike, and stiff rims with 2 mm spokes, I am even able to do small jumps with total confidence. Some thing that they Enduro is very competent of , of course, but the problem is, when I am tired, I simply roll over the jumps even thought I know the bike can do it well. So with the Element, I tend to jump more.

    This is my feedback on changing to a lighter allu bike so far.

    Alternatively the Altitude is also another consideration.

    And if the AM blood is still running strong, then you would probably go back to Enduro Territory and there won't be much reason to change bike except for wear and tear reasons. Of which the Slayer comes to mind.
    My Current Weapons:
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  27. #27
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    Tallboy LTc... Read the reviews and forums. The underdog. See Cedric Gracia shredding it!

  28. #28
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    I think now you might realize that what this is really all about is the hunt for the perfect shock.

    35% sag is debatable but 40 seems just plain cookie-headed for any AM bike. 25%-30% is more the norm.

    With a shock that really let's you tune, you should be able to get that first bit of travel really plush while only sagged 30% but still have it ride plenty high up in the travel

  29. #29
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    +1 for proper shock tune! If you love the enduro in it's descend mode, don;t for for something light that might climb a bit better. Get your set-up right so the climbing is ok and slam your ride on the down. I had my standard shock (RP2) pushed and it makes the bike soooo much better than it already was. I choose for the plush ride, but they can also work with a more snappy platform for climbing.

  30. #30
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    I have a 2013 expert enduro and it climbs pretty well, descends amazing. I would like to hear a back to back comparasion between a 2013 and a 2011 or 12. The bike is pretty light at 28lbs flat. Not s- works light but pretty close.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookie nick View Post
    I came to have this observation:

    Most "legal" trails in my area can be covered best in a typical short travel Xc or trail bike. AM can be the best or both worlds when you need a bit of everything but it could also be the worse choice between climbing ability, endurance rides vs downhill speed and gnarly lines. Put in a set of solid yet light rims and you will be surprised how far you can push the so called "XC" bike.

    I too sold my Enduro and kinda replaced it with a Rocky Mountain Element. This is for the usual trail and training rides which has so far proven to be very competent. It climbs better, and I can ride further and faster. On the downs, the 120 mm makes me more alert and I chose my line carefully. Maybe I am familiar with my local trails so it doesn't seem like a big change to me. With a lighter bike, and stiff rims with 2 mm spokes, I am even able to do small jumps with total confidence. Some thing that they Enduro is very competent of , of course, but the problem is, when I am tired, I simply roll over the jumps even thought I know the bike can do it well. So with the Element, I tend to jump more.

    This is my feedback on changing to a lighter allu bike so far.

    Alternatively the Altitude is also another consideration.

    And if the AM blood is still running strong, then you would probably go back to Enduro Territory and there won't be much reason to change bike except for wear and tear reasons. Of which the Slayer comes to mind.
    ^I completely agree. I used to ride a six inch bike, now I ride a Blur TRc(4.92") and am riding everything I did before but am now faster and hitting more features somehow. And of course it is a much better climber. Whenever someone asks me about what bike they should buy, I always tell them to think about how much travel they think they need or want, and then subtract at least an inch from it.
    2013 Medium Santa Cruz Blur Trc in Matte/Silver, full XT kit, 1x10 with 32T wolftooth ring, 25 pounds 7 ounces

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by nightofthefleming View Post
    ^I completely agree. I used to ride a six inch bike, now I ride a Blur TRc(4.92") and am riding everything I did before but am now faster and hitting more features somehow. And of course it is a much better climber. Whenever someone asks me about what bike they should buy, I always tell them to think about how much travel they think they need or want, and then subtract at least an inch from it.
    Funny you mention this. I just came to this realization yesterday while on my ASR5. I've had a good number of bikes over the past 5 years, always searching for the perfect ride. The problem was that in order to get low and slack you were forced to go with a true AM bike which meant 150/160mm travel in the rear. There are a number of good trail bikes with slack geo and moderate amounts of travel. It's funny to watch the trend from steep short travel to slack long travel and now to slack short travel.

  33. #33
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    Pretty sure he said 34lbs in black and white on the first line.

  34. #34
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    He edited his post

  35. #35
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    like you already figured out your sag was killing you. 40% is just absurd.

  36. #36
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    It is tough to ride at low sag rates, I normally keep mine at 20 percent because of my weight and I don't want to bottom out when jumping, plus it helps with climbing. It's best to get a shock that has lots of settings, not sure if you're running that brain system, but it is very limited on options. If not, a tuned shock with multiple settings will be a huge difference, and compared to a new frame, it's a much less pricey way to go. Food for thought.

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