Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 53
  1. #1
    Infidel
    Reputation: KYMtnBkr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    414

    9 Speed 12-36 Cassette / Who's done this? How do you like it? Any issues?

    I want to go to a 12-36 9 speed cassette. I've yearned for a 36t option in the rear for some time now but have been hesitant to flip for a new derailleur, shifter, and cassette because it's a pretty spendy project. I've learned that I can purchase a CS-HG61 12-36 Shimano cassette in 9 speed but it will add about a 1/4 pound to the bike by doing so. Another option would be to purchase the CS-HG61 and a SRAM PG-990 11-32 cassette. I would then add the 36t to the SRAM cassette and remove the 11t. I would then have a 9 speed 12-36 drivetrain for a fraction of the price of going 10 speed. Who's done this? How do you like it? Have you had any unforeseen issues?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    i have both setups- the Shimano cassette on one of my back wheels, and a regular casette with that 36t cog from ebay on the other, i took off the second tallest cog and used the stock 11t lockring so i could still keep that highest gear; there is somewhat of a gear gap bteween the 11t and the 15t on that one, but i never notice, i never spend much time in the 2d-to 3-d highest gears anyway.Works fine no issues at all. The wiight increase with the cassette is more than compensated for by the lower gearing, climbing feels like a time machine! i call it my "secret weapon"

  3. #3
    meow meow
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    10,622
    unless you have some brutal hills i cant imagine not being to motor up something in a 22x34.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: qbert2000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    3,226
    Quote Originally Posted by b-kul
    unless you have some brutal hills i cant imagine not being to motor up something in a 22x34.

    most do this to run 1x9 with a 36tooth in the back. i have it on two bikes. zero issues. the shimano 36 tooth is higher quality than the ebay single and the whole cog hg61 costs as much as that single. i run the shimano 36 with my sram cassette. works mint. saves on going 10 speed for now.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    i run my 36t cog with dual up front. Just makes the climbing easier for my 220 lb self on my 37 lb bike. And there are some steep hills around here.

  6. #6
    T.W.O
    Reputation: pfox90's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    1,730
    Nothing steep around me, can get up everything on a 32 and hardly ever need to.
    ------__o
    ----_`\<,_
    ---(_)/ (_)

  7. #7
    psycho cyclo addict
    Reputation: edubfromktown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    2,255
    Quote Originally Posted by KYMtnBkr
    I want to go to a 12-36 9 speed cassette. I've yearned for a 36t option in the rear for some time now but have been hesitant to flip for a new derailleur, shifter, and cassette because it's a pretty spendy project. I've learned that I can purchase a CS-HG61 12-36 Shimano cassette in 9 speed but it will add about a 1/4 pound to the bike by doing so.
    Agreed, the HG61 is heavy. I ran with one that came on one of my rides for ~1 year. Having the 36t was useful on a limited basis for major climbs...

    The other approach is to go with a compact crank and smaller chain rings up front. I run 38/32/20 (94/58 BCD) and a 12-34t cassette on one of my 29er's now, and 44/32/22 with 12-34t cassette on the other.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    70

  9. #9
    OSM
    OSM is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OSM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    130
    This is a nice option I never thought of. I run a single ring 40t up front and have been considering dropping 2-4 teeth for a little climbing advantage. I can hammer up 5000' + in the 40t, but don't want to lose any top speed. Being able to pedal to 40mph is a daily goal and a challenge.
    Bicycles D'opinion/ COMMENCAL /Principat D'Andorra

  10. #10
    Beer swillin' rabble ridr
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    155
    I use the hg61 took off the 12t replaced w 11t. Eff the weight, I just pedal the mother. Weight is in center of wheel anyway. Ultimate and cheap 1x9 setup IMHO ---YMMV
    Drink beer all day

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: david8613's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    1,702
    I run hg61 with my hammerschmidt and have no complaints... being a little heavy in not an issue I don't race...

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    706
    Which one rear derailleur can handle a 12-36 cassette (9 speeds) ?

  13. #13
    newless cluebie
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    537
    Any long cage, probably most medium cages, and only short cages if you're running a single ring up front?

    At least that's what I would suspect.
    My Trifecta: Rocky Mountain Flatline Pro, Rocky Mountain Slayer SXC70, eBay Carbon Hardtail

  14. #14
    NWS
    NWS is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1,390
    Quote Originally Posted by KYMtnBkr
    I want to go to a 12-36 9 speed cassette. I've yearned for a 36t option in the rear for some time now but have been hesitant to flip for a new derailleur, shifter, and cassette because it's a pretty spendy project. I've learned that I can purchase a CS-HG61 12-36 Shimano cassette in 9 speed but it will add about a 1/4 pound to the bike by doing so. Another option would be to purchase the CS-HG61 and a SRAM PG-990 11-32 cassette. I would then add the 36t to the SRAM cassette and remove the 11t. I would then have a 9 speed 12-36 drivetrain for a fraction of the price of going 10 speed. Who's done this? How do you like it? Have you had any unforeseen issues?
    11-34 cassettes are plentiful, and have more range (by 9%) so I think you'd be better off just going with smaller rings up front instead.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    I will convert my 11-34 XT 9 speed cassette to 12-36 for 30 bucks and I'm psyched.
    F*** 10 speed!

    http://cgi.ebay.com/36-Tooth-Cog-Mou...item3a64a7060c

  16. #16
    NWS
    NWS is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1,390
    34/11 = 3.09:1 difference from the largest cog to the smallest
    36/12 = 3:1 difference.

    So that conversion gives you 9% less difference between the big cog and the little cog.

    That seems like a step backward. Keeping the same cassette and going to a smaller chainring up front would give you the lower ratio you're looking for from 36t cog, without sacrificing any range.

    EDIT: Or better yet, drop a gear from the middle when you install the 36t cog (keep the 11t), so you get lower gear for climbing AND a wider range.

    EDIT AGAIN: In fact, I want to do that. Has anyone tried one of those 36t cogs? If they work well, I'll take two.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    I just want a lower low. I don't care about the range or the 11 tooth, but you are right I could take off a middle cog.

    I thought 22 was the smallest ring for a standard crank. How do you get a 20 to fit?

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    smilin steve, just an fyi. I bought that single cog, afew months ago, and its already so worn the chain skips. I usually dont wear out a cassette cog that fast, the chain I put on at the same sime still has little wear. It might not be as durable as a normal cog. How about this for just a little more: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG6...8285657&sr=8-1 . I put it on my other wheel around that time and its still fine.

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    That seems like a step backward. Keeping the same cassette and going to a smaller chainring up front would give you the lower ratio you're looking for from 36t cog, without sacrificing any range..

    True, but some bikes just pedal better (less pedal feedback) in middle ring, so a lower cog lets you keep it in the middle ring in many situations, instead of going to granny.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    Action tec makes 20 and 21 tooth rings for standard (64) crank.


    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    I just want a lower low. I don't care about the range or the 11 tooth, but you are right I could take off a middle cog.

    I thought 22 was the smallest ring for a standard crank. How do you get a 20 to fit?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    how about this? 36t cog, 20t granny ring!

  22. #22
    wuss
    Reputation: dropadrop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    2,364
    I currently run 1x9 with 28t in the front and 11-32 in the back. Will swap to 32 in the front but want similar ratio for climbs so 36 in the rear is tempting.

    How's the spider in that 12-36? I understood xt or better is the way to go with an aluminum cassette body so that the spider does not dig into it?

  23. #23
    NWS
    NWS is offline
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1,390
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    how about this? 36t cog, 20t granny ring!
    I dunno, do you really really like steep climbs?

    With 22/34 I already feel like I'm not making enough forward progress to justify the energy it takes just to move my feet so fast. I'm going to remove my granny ring this weekend. Already ditched the big one for a bash ring, so the front derailleur is coming off too.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    1,385
    i wasnt serious, pedaling that gear would feel like a time machine! thats the lowest gear possible, I'll bet someone's done it.

    Quote Originally Posted by NWS View Post
    I dunno, do you really really like steep climbs?

    With 22/34 I already feel like I'm not making enough forward progress to justify the energy it takes just to move my feet so fast. I'm going to remove my granny ring this weekend. Already ditched the big one for a bash ring, so the front derailleur is coming off too.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    smilin steve, just an fyi. I bought that single cog, afew months ago, and its already so worn the chain skips. I usually dont wear out a cassette cog that fast, the chain I put on at the same sime still has little wear. It might not be as durable as a normal cog. How about this for just a little more: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG6...8285657&sr=8-1 . I put it on my other wheel around that time and its still fine.
    The HG -61 is too heavy, but I read about someone who took the 36 off the HG-61 and added it to his XT cassette. That might be a more durable option than what I did, but too late, its paid for.

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    Action tec makes 20 and 21 tooth rings for standard (64) crank.
    Yes, apparently they do. Looking at a 22 tooth, however, I can't see how there's room for the bolt holes to go any smaller. But I guess they figured it out.
    Unfortunately, the inexpensive steel 20's only come in 58 BCD. The only option is titanium at $60.
    Since its apparently possible to do, why doesn't Shimano make a 20?

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    how about this? 36t cog, 20t granny ring!
    Hey, for a soon to be 51 year old weekend warrior trying to ride the Rocky Mountains, that doesn't sound so funny.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    i wasnt serious, pedaling that gear would feel like a time machine! thats the lowest gear possible, I'll bet someone's done it.
    It's not so crazy for 29ers though!

    20x36 on a 29er is about the same gear inches as 22x36 on a 26er

    Also, looking at it in terms of the cassette... 22x36 on a 29er is the same as 22x33 on a 26er

  29. #29
    psycho cyclo addict
    Reputation: edubfromktown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    2,255
    Quote Originally Posted by dwyooaj View Post
    how about this? 36t cog, 20t granny ring!
    Now that's overkill... you might have trouble staying on the bike at very low speeds.

    I have 11-34 cassette with 38/32/20 rings (compact 94/58 cranks) on a 29er which is plenty low 'n slow for any significant grade & duration climb.

    $himano doesn't make 20t in 94/58 or anything else for the same reason they are phasing out 9-speed... so you will chuck what you have and buy new stuff.

    The HG-61 will munch your freehub body/drive shell for sure. The 36t cog makes for a lot of torque... Smaller chain rings and with less exotic (and lighter) cassettes is a much better approach.

  30. #30
    psycho cyclo addict
    Reputation: edubfromktown's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    2,255
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    The HG -61 is too heavy, but I read about someone who took the 36 off the HG-61 and added it to his XT cassette. That might be a more durable option than what I did, but too late, its paid for.
    You can get it here:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/36-Tooth-Cog-Mou...item3a64a7060c

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    179
    Many full suspension frames were engineered around the middle ring being 32-34 and the majority of pedaling being done in that ring. Pedaling in granny is not ideal on my Nomad and induces pedal feedback. Riding a 31 home brewed sprocket and 11-36 XT/ebay 9 speed cassette here. Riding San Diego's finest in the front and rear on my bike. Living in San Diego...

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Posts
    783
    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    Yes, apparently they do. Looking at a 22 tooth, however, I can't see how there's room for the bolt holes to go any smaller. But I guess they figured it out.
    Unfortunately, the inexpensive steel 20's only come in 58 BCD. The only option is titanium at $60.
    Since its apparently possible to do, why doesn't Shimano make a 20?
    I wonder the same thing! Anyone have any experience with the 20T on a 64mm bolt spacing? I used to have one on my old 5-arm crank, but it's hard to see how something that small would fit on a 4-arm crank.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,288
    I currently run a 1X9 with a 32T chainring and 11-34 cog. I am climbing just fine with the 32/34 but my problem is I am spinning out on the flats. If i were to get the 12-36 cog I would change the front ring to a 34....

  34. #34
    R.I.P. DogFriend
    Reputation: jeffj's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    6,548
    Quote Originally Posted by edubfromktown View Post
    Now that's overkill... you might have trouble staying on the bike at very low speeds.
    Because everyone rides the same as you, has the same fitness level as you, and rides the same terrain as you?

    The hardest thing for me with super low gearing is that the momentum is not as strong when the trail is chunky. Steep non-tech trails have not been a problem at super low speeds in that regard. Anything that can help you keep pedaling instead of walking or stopping is a good thing. I have used some super low gearing setups in the past for several years. Even if one can eventually get fit enough to not need it, it may help them get to that point faster if they can keep moving, even if it is not real fast.

    Quote Originally Posted by edubfromktown View Post
    I have 11-34 cassette with 38/32/20 rings (compact 94/58 cranks) on a 29er which is plenty low 'n slow for any significant grade & duration climb.

    $himano doesn't make 20t in 94/58 or anything else for the same reason they are phasing out 9-speed... so you will chuck what you have and buy new stuff.
    Shimano doesn't make a 20t in 58mm BCD, but others do (or have) besides actiontec. Race Face made a 20t with 58mm BCD in steel and they were excellent and very durable. You can still find them from time to time on ebay. Salsa is another, but those are/were aluminum and not nearly as durable as the steel ones from Race Face.

    Quote Originally Posted by edubfromktown View Post
    The HG-61 will munch your freehub body/drive shell for sure. The 36t cog makes for a lot of torque... Smaller chain rings and with less exotic (and lighter) cassettes is a much better approach.
    I'm curious to know if the freehub cares how the torque/hp is manufactured? It seems like it takes what it takes to keep your body/bike (mass) moving up a steep hill at a given speed. If your legs have the power to climb with a combination that yields x gear inches, how does it matter to the freehub how you arrive at the final drive ratio?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by osmarandsara View Post
    I currently run a 1X9 with a 32T chainring and 11-34 cog. I am climbing just fine with the 32/34 but my problem is I am spinning out on the flats. If i were to get the 12-36 cog I would change the front ring to a 34....
    Unfortunately that 1 tooth change on the low end has a big enough effect that 34x12 is actually a slower gear than 32x11. A 36t ring would give you a faster top end gear ratio but actually only by a small amount compared to 32x11

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by jeffj View Post

    I'm curious to know if the freehub cares how the torque/hp is manufactured? It seems like it takes what it takes to keep your body/bike (mass) moving up a steep hill at a given speed. If your legs have the power to climb with a combination that yields x gear inches, how does it matter to the freehub how you arrive at the final drive ratio?
    I think I know what you are saying. The torque would be the force applied by the chain times the radius of the gear, FxR. The torque will only be enough to move the wheel, so if R goes up, F goes down, and torque stays the same with a larger cog. The potential torque is greater with a larger cog, for example if the wheel was held still while applying max force to the chain. But if you stay within your same power outputs while the wheel is rolling, using a larger cog wouldn't put more torque on the freehub. (that's what I'm thinking anyway).

  37. #37
    Cut Casing Whisperer
    Reputation: Mr.P's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    5,350
    Quote Originally Posted by osmarandsara View Post
    I currently run a 1X9 with a 32T chainring and 11-34 cog. I am climbing just fine with the 32/34 but my problem is I am spinning out on the flats. If i were to get the 12-36 cog I would change the front ring to a 34....
    I guess it's a matter of personal preference or riding style.

    I don't spin out on flats with a 32/11-32.

    The only time I feel I need more gear is on downhill fireroads.

    I call spinning out at a cadence of 100+.

    P

  38. #38
    Huffy Rider
    Reputation: motochick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    1,391
    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    I wonder the same thing! Anyone have any experience with the 20T on a 64mm bolt spacing? I used to have one on my old 5-arm crank, but it's hard to see how something that small would fit on a 4-arm crank.
    I run a 21 tooth and hubby runs a 20, both Action Tec ti. His rear is 11-30 mine is 11-32. They work very well! I have been considering running a 1x9 with a 11-36 but not until they get the weight down and give us more options.

    Brenda

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by agoura_biker View Post
    I wonder the same thing! Anyone have any experience with the 20T on a 64mm bolt spacing? I used to have one on my old 5-arm crank, but it's hard to see how something that small would fit on a 4-arm crank.
    I can't find the picture I saw, but I think the bolt hole takes up part of the space of a tooth, so there is a little mini tooth above the hole. Hard to describe.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Jesus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    19

    170mm cranks + steep hills= 12-36 cassette

    I ran a 1x9 on my old bike, I race cross country on an 11-32, but I run a 12-36 on my AM bike and I love it.

    If your AM bike is on the FR side, then you are most likely on 170mm cranks. If you are on more of a FR bike, then you probably live somewhere with very very steep hills. If this is you, 12-36 is the only way to go.

    It is so nice being able to sit and comforably spin up the hill like a normal person. The tiny weight penalty of the 12-36 is of course totally invisible, the added gearing however will change your life.

    The downside is that the bigger cassette will tend to dig into your aluminum freehub body and get really stuck. I just took one off this morning and it was a pain in the ass.

    The cassette and lockring is 423g on my scale.
    Last edited by Jesus; 06-19-2011 at 12:45 AM.

  41. #41
    I am a pathetic rider...
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Posts
    644
    So the torque on the freehub does matter, because if you look at what things are constant in a bike drivetrain, you can basically assume that max chain tension in a given pedal stroke is usually some fairly constant value, because it is a function of force at the pedal and the size of your chainring. This larger chain tension being applied to a larger cog would induce a greater torque at the freehub, even while yielding the same final drive ratio. This is assuming that the pedal force remains fairly constant, which in my experience/perception is not that outlandish.
    Save the Earth, Ride a Cyclist

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    6

    Good info. Thanks!

    Good info. Thanks!

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    212
    Quote Originally Posted by Jesus View Post
    I ran a 1x9 on my old bike, I race cross country on an 11-32, but I run a 12-36 on my AM bike and I love it.

    If your AM bike is on the FR side, then you are most likely on 170mm cranks. If you are on more of a FR bike, then you probably live somewhere with very very steep hills. If this is you, 12-36 is the only way to go.

    It is so nice being able to sit and comforably spin up the hill like a normal person. The tiny weight penalty of the 12-36 is of course totally invisible, the added gearing however will change your life.

    The downside is that the bigger cassette will tend to dig into your aluminum freehub body and get really stuck. I just took one off this morning and it was a pain in the ass.

    The cassette and lockring is 423g on my scale.
    great thread, as i am currently trying to figure this out.

    So for instance, i currently own a 11-34. if i remove the 11 or 12T and install that 36T from either the shimano or the EBAY 36T, i will have problems with rubbing? or you will only encounter issues if you install the 12-36 cassette "CS-HG61"?

  44. #44
    Is that Bill rated?
    Reputation: Lord Humongous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    440
    You can transmit maximum torque to the freehub for a given chain tension in your largest cassette gear ergo larger gears dig more into soft aluminum freehubs than smaller ones. Caveat, I can dig a fifteen tooth, the only free narrow cog on an XT 11-34, thoroughly into a DT 240 FH with little apparent effort so it's not like it matters to me.
    Well, it was a good try.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    264

    20T Granny : $20 (64 BCD)

    I switched to a 20T granny a year ago and never looked back. Now my knees don't hurt on super steep climbs (anyone heard of Pumphouse Hill and Hell Hill?). Run it with the PG990 11-34 cassette and its my Secret Weapon for hills.

    This guy is selling them on Ebay for $20: eBay My World - crmxer or just search 20T chainring, it should pop up.

    He makes them out of stainless steel at his machine shop and I must say they work very well. The secret is out now...

    Curious to see if anyone else tries this setup....

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by guitarjohn21 View Post
    I switched to a 20T granny a year ago and never looked back. Now my knees don't hurt on super steep climbs (anyone heard of Pumphouse Hill and Hell Hill?). Run it with the PG990 11-34 cassette and its my Secret Weapon for hills.

    This guy is selling them on Ebay for $20: eBay My World - crmxer or just search 20T chainring, it should pop up.

    He makes them out of stainless steel at his machine shop and I must say they work very well. The secret is out now...

    Curious to see if anyone else tries this setup....
    That's exactly my set up

    Installing my 20 T chain ring

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: smilinsteve's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Posts
    8,613
    Quote Originally Posted by Lord Humongous View Post
    You can transmit maximum torque to the freehub for a given chain tension in your largest cassette gear ergo larger gears dig more into soft aluminum freehubs than smaller ones. Caveat, I can dig a fifteen tooth, the only free narrow cog on an XT 11-34, thoroughly into a DT 240 FH with little apparent effort so it's not like it matters to me.
    For any given speed, wouldn't the torque on the hub be the same regardless of of gear sizes? That would have to be true to obey the conservation of energy law, right? For example, a small cog with large chain ring requires more chain tension but a smaller lever arm on the hub, while a large cog with small chain ring results in a larger lever arm, but with a lower force, to produce the same speed.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: thegoodword's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    23
    Some of the steep climbs in Idaho were too difficult on my Niner W.F.O. with a 22-23-44 front with a 11-34 on the back cassette. I put the 12-36 on the rear and have not noticed the extra weight. I have noticed easier climbing and better control on loose gravel/sand on the climbs. I have not tried swapping the 12 tooth for an eleven, but it sounds like it works fine!

  49. #49
    dadamamabooboo
    Reputation: bigchillcar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Posts
    717
    Quote Originally Posted by thegoodword View Post
    Some of the steep climbs in Idaho were too difficult on my Niner W.F.O. with a 22-23-44 front with a 11-34 on the back cassette. I put the 12-36 on the rear and have not noticed the extra weight. I have noticed easier climbing and better control on loose gravel/sand on the climbs. I have not tried swapping the 12 tooth for an eleven, but it sounds like it works fine!
    Hey guys..first post so guess I'll jump in! After over a decade in Porsche and aviation forums I feel like I'm cheating on my friends, but think I'll be putting most all my online time into this new forum. Quit wrenching on antique 911's and quit flying professionally. So here I be now!

    I'm curious how the swap from the 12 to an 11 worked on your cassette? Is it a clunky shift between 8 and 9 or smooth enough? I think they both jump to a 14t next cog up. I'm upgrading soon from 8-sp SRAM X.4 to 9-sp X.5 shifters, and from a SRAM 11-32 cass to a shimano 12-36. Are you able to interchange individual cogs like that? Also hoping my Shimano M475 rear hub will handle more torque from the larger cogs. I'd read I may need a M529 that's 29er specific.

    Good to be here. Hope to get to know some of you soon.
    Ryan
    2011 Trek Mamba 29er 21", SRAM 10-sp X9, X9 type 2 RD, SRAM X7 20(oval)/36 & SRAM X9 2X FD, Shimano XT M771 11-36, M525 hub

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    264
    Quote Originally Posted by bigchillcar View Post
    I'm curious how the swap from the 12 to an 11 worked on your cassette? Is it a clunky shift between 8 and 9 or smooth enough? I think they both jump to a 14t next cog up. I'm upgrading soon from 8-sp SRAM X.4 to 9-sp X.5 shifters, and from a SRAM 11-32 cass to a shimano 12-36. Are you able to interchange individual cogs like that? Also hoping my Shimano M475 rear hub will handle more torque from the larger cogs. I'd read I may need a M529 that's 29er specific.

    The 12 to the 11 switch should not be a problem. As long as it is the same brand you should be ok with the spacing (shimano?) and the shifting should be the same.

    As for the rear hub handling the load, I have had problems this year with blowing out the freehub on the 29er with a 20T up front and a 11-36 cassette. I believe this equates to a lower ratio than some of the 26/42 set ups I've seen out there and the torque has destroyed two hubs this year alone. I weigh about 225lbs and the problem happens on grades around +22% with technical climbing on rocks (lots of traction).

    I also broke a few chains on these trails with this set up. The feeling of almost going over the bars when the hub or chain fails has now retired this 29er to being just my trail bike, and I do all my tech-climbing on my 26 again with a Mavic Crossmax wheelset. I am not sure about the hub you have, but I do have a shimano on one of my bikes and had no problems.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •