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  1. #1
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    From 3x9 to 2x10

    From 3x9 to 2x10

    In future I’m planning to change my set from 3x9 to 2x10.
    Now I have in front 22/32/44 and on rear 11-34.

    But I’m not sure which crankset I should choose.
    It seems Shimano is offering 28/40 and 26/38
    Sram is producing 22/36, 24/38, 26/39 and 28/42.

    Has anybody made the change?
    How do you feel as you have lost some of the gears?

    I’m now most considering Sram 24/38 with 11-36, as I would loose only one gear (the smallest 44 with 11 = ratio 4.00)
    With the new set up it would be 3.45 (38 with 11)

    Until now I have been using all gears.

  2. #2
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    it seems you are more worried about losing your top end gear? If I was going to switch from my triple to a double crankset, I'd be less concerned with the large ring, as I was with getting the right climbing gear as I ride up all the trails and refuse to hike a bike

    Some trails I need to use my 22 in the front to get out of a hole!

  3. #3
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    I didn't change to the preset chainrings because my cranks are Raceface, so are my chainrings so they're not so limiting. Running 34/22 on the front, 11-34 in the back and I'm pretty happy with that.

    Used to run 36/24, and that's just a way for me to destroy my knees.
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  4. #4
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    Unless you are distance racing, or simply have a bunch of money to burn through, I see no need to drop the premium bucks for a 10 speed drive train when you already have a 9 speed setup.
    I run 36/22 with a 34-11 9 speed. We have steep long climbs, I'm 43 with a desk job and my bike is heavy.
    If I didn't "need" the bash ring and tensioner I'd gladly run a tripple setup to avoid running out of gear when hammering downhill.
    My bikes, Slayer 70 and Switch 2

  5. #5
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    I currently run a 2x9 22/32 and 11/34. I really like the idea of a 22/36 to give me a little more top end. I find as I have gotten stronger I use my 22/34 pretty infrequently, but still need it on the bike. For now.

  6. #6
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    I ran an SLX crankset on my last bike (custom 2002 Enduro) with 22/36 in the front and 11-32? in the back. I found that I rarely needed the lowest gear (and didn't truly need it at all, once I got into shape), but ran out of gearing on long open downhills.

    I swapped my new bike (2011 Stumpjumper Comp) from its 3x10 gearing to a Sram 26/39 crankset when I first got it. I haven't ridden it a whole lot, but this gearing (has an 11-36 tooth in the back) seems very capable. I like having the taller gears when I need them, and the small ring is more usable. It is a huge gap when switching from big ring to small ring though, so I try to run in one or the other most of the time.

    I think a lot of it comes down to the trails you ride. Switching from a 1:4 top gear to a 1:3.45 is going to be very noticeable if you max this gear out a lot. If you can afford to spin a little faster then it won't really be an issue.

    Sram advertises that their 26/39 gearing provides a "perfect shift," and I will say that it shifts very smooth, better than my old setup. Of course the dérailleur setup may have something to do with that as well. The frame geometry on my Enduro made the derailleur mount a little funny.

  7. #7
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    I'm running the X0 2x10 drivetrain. I ended up getting 26-39t with a 12-36 cassette. I went for the smaller chainrings on the cranks because I do a lot of climbing around where I live. I definitely do some awesome descents and have a lot of fun doing them, but seldom do I actually spin out while pedaling down any of the hills. I love it here in California and I loved it when I went to Canada too. There are a lot faster runs where I was at in Canada (Vancouver Island) and even still, I didn't spin out.

    I have spun out a few times coming down a paved hill at 36 mph, but that's about it. Maybe a fire road, but I can't remember. If you're a fire road racer, get bigger chainrings.

  8. #8
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    Stay with 3x9 and bash ring it. There arn't any good bash rings for 2x10's in my opinion so your outter cog is gunna get hammered if you encounter any rocks.

    I run 2x9 with a 24/32 setup. Personal preference and it is working out really well for what I ride. In the rear I have the 11/34 in back. It's a great setup man and cheaper to do than switch to 2x10.
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  9. #9
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    I'm getting MRP 2x guide soon. I'll see how it goes

  10. #10
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    2x10 SRAM works well after tweaks

    My old bike had 2x9 setup which worked fantasic for years. Bought a new bike this Spring and , oh boy, 2x10, it sucked, bad. Wrong ratios, and chain drop.

    My new bike came with SRAM 2x10 and at first I hated it . It had a 24/38T crankset and a 11-36T cassette. It also had the SRAM X7 2x10 direct mount front derailleur which complicated things a bunch. Not adjustable. THey are designed specifically for a certain chainring combination, if you change the front ring combo, it stops working. I spent too much time in the small ring in front , and couldn't crank that damn 38T road ring, just too big for MTBing in CT.

    So I switched to a 34T ring in front (Race Face ring - same 104BCD pattern so it bolted right on). Also installed a Race Bace Light bash ring. Had to change the front derailleur to a 3x9 X7 direct mount SRAM, but it works great at moving the ring from the 34T to the 24T and back. The 10 speed SLX shifters that came with the bike have NO problems moving the 3 speed front derailleur correctly. The cable pull is fine.

    My only final beef was chain drop onto the bottom bracket in real rough terrain, which I also solved by making a chain stay plate that mounts to the direct mount bracket. No more chain drop.

    Now I have even better gearing than my old bike 2x9 setup. I just wish my bike had the seatube mounted front derailleur, it would have simplified the setup.

  11. #11
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    I did the math for a 2x10 and 3x9 - It works out to 13 individual gears ratios for both. But - I lost about 10% off the very lowest and highest ratios. It took some getting used to - I figured out the best way to ride it is to find a gear in the back that works, and then raise and drop on the front as needed. It's about the same as dropping or gaining 5 gears at the flick of a switch.

    I do have chain drop in the rough. If I can plan for it I'll run on the small gear up front with a high gear in the rear (yup - horrible driveline alignment)... Also - If you ride a lot, plan on a new chain about every three months, and good ones ain't cheap...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SSearchVT View Post
    I did the math for a 2x10 and 3x9 - It works out to 13 individual gears ratios for both. But - I lost about 10% off the very lowest and highest ratios. It took some getting used to - I figured out the best way to ride it is to find a gear in the back that works, and then raise and drop on the front as needed. It's about the same as dropping or gaining 5 gears at the flick of a switch.

    I do have chain drop in the rough. If I can plan for it I'll run on the small gear up front with a high gear in the rear (yup - horrible driveline alignment)... Also - If you ride a lot, plan on a new chain about every three months, and good ones ain't cheap...
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  13. #13
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    MTB Pilot - My guess is the chain is thinner , and it runs in worse drive line alignment than a 3x9.

    I clean and lube the chain and driveline just about every ride but after 3 months the chain was stretched past acceptable.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauldotcom View Post
    There arn't any good bash rings for 2x10's in my opinion so your outter cog is gunna get hammered if you encounter any rocks.
    That's crazy talk. it' doesn't make a differnce wether you are running 2x10, 2x9 or 2x1. The bash ring is the same.

    And FWIW, you only loose 2-3 gears when you loose the leg eater... I mean big ring. Take of the big ring, put on a bash and go. it's that simple.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for everybody’s comments.

    It seems the important factor is what kind of riding you are doing.
    I don't want go to 2x9 by taking the biggest ring off as I would lose two gear that I use often.
    By going to 2x10 I would lose one gear.

    I agree there is no point to go from 9speed to 10speed, just because for a change.
    My plan is to change when the equipment is going to break or wear down.

    One reason why I want to have 2x is as my biggest ring touches the rock in some places regularly (not going to take it off), but let see how long it will still work.
    On option would be 2x9 if I could get/find a 11-36 rear cassette.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by masm71 View Post

    It seems the important factor is what kind of riding you are doing.
    I don't want go to 2x9 by taking the biggest ring off as I would lose two gear that I use often.
    You use the Big ring/smallest cog gear often? Where and what do you ride?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by masm71 View Post
    Thanks for everybody’s comments.

    .....
    On option would be 2x9 if I could get/find a 11-36 rear cassette.
    mtbtools on ebay sells a stainless 36t cog with a spacer.....
    I put it on my 1x9. It works well. You have to take off the 11t and use a 12t lock ring and have a derailleur that will stretch to a 36t. I'm using an old XO long cage and it works perfect.

    "I must not be crazy because I'm seriously questioning my sanity"

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by noshortcuts View Post
    mtbtools on ebay sells a stainless 36t cog with a spacer.....
    I put it on my 1x9. It works well. You have to take off the 11t and use a 12t lock ring and have a derailleur that will stretch to a 36t. I'm using an old XO long cage and it works perfect.
    That ring does work great. I'm using one. And FWIW, I kept the 11T ON and took of the next cog (may vary). And you don't need to use a long cage derailleur. I'm using a medium. I'm 99% sure you can use a short cage too.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    That ring does work great. I'm using one. And FWIW, I kept the 11T ON and took of the next cog (may vary). And you don't need to use a long cage derailleur. I'm using a medium. I'm 99% sure you can use a short cage too.
    FWIW, I tried an XO medium and didn't get it working - It would just barely stretch enough to get the chain up on the 36t and then be too jammed up to come back down (maybe I didn't spend enough time adjusting but I thought I had it maxed out).

    "I must not be crazy because I'm seriously questioning my sanity"

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by noshortcuts View Post
    FWIW, I tried an XO medium and didn't get it working - It would just barely stretch enough to get the chain up on the 36t and then be too jammed up to come back down (maybe I didn't spend enough time adjusting but I thought I had it maxed out).
    Then your tunning is off or your chain is too short. I use sram X9/X0 with a chain guide even and it works awesome. If your B screw is not adjusted properly, then shifting will behave like you've described.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    Then your tunning is off or your chain is too short. I use sram X9/X0 with a chain guide even and it works awesome. If your B screw is not adjusted properly, then shifting will behave like you've described.
    Thanks, I'll try again because my long cage is about done.

    "I must not be crazy because I'm seriously questioning my sanity"

  22. #22
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    Or it could be a chainline issue as well... But more then likley it's your Bscrew.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jwind View Post
    You use the Big ring/smallest cog gear often? Where and what do you ride?
    I'm riding in Hong Kong, where there is need to ride on road to get to some of the trails.
    Some trails are AM with technical sections where the biggest ring is needed.
    Some XC trails are with long (not deep) descent and the smallest gears are handy to get the speed going.

    In some technical sections my bike’s crank is bottoming slightly… not too serious… but it “shakes the bike” as the balances is changed

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by masm71 View Post
    I'm riding in Hong Kong, where there is need to ride on road to get to some of the trails.
    Some trails are AM with technical sections where the biggest ring is needed.
    Some XC trails are with long (not deep) descent and the smallest gears are handy to get the speed going.

    In some technical sections my bike’s crank is bottoming slightly… not too serious… but it “shakes the bike” as the balances is changed
    This post confuses me in so many ways I don't know where to start. I think there is some things lost in translation here. Regardless, I think you are confusing chainrings with cogs...

  25. #25
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    yes, I'm talking about cassette's gears

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