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  1. #1
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    26T chainring ???

    i don't think that i am the only one that considers moving to one chainring to rule them all.
    the ideal solution was to move to the new XX1 set
    cause i don't have spare money right now i want to do the most cost effective change.

    i consider myself a good technical rider with good stamina but in my riding i often use the 1-1 gear combination.
    because of the situation i did some math and found out that if i move to a 26T chainring and a 12-36T cassette i wont loose much.
    so i have two questions:
    1. does anyone uses the this gear setting ? how is it?
    2. i understand that the 26T is usually built to replace the small chainring so i don't suppose it is designed to attach itself to the crank. is there a product like that out there?

    thanks in advance
    victor

  2. #2
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    A 26:12 max ratio would officially make you the slowest rider on earth......

  3. #3
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    Depends on tire size. I have a 22t front chainring and 11-34 cassette in the rear on my Moonlander. At 90 rpm cadence the speed is 25 km/h, which is quite allright for a fat bike - considering that I don't race.

    I'm switching to a 26t chainring to get higher gearing, because currently I have no use for the lowest gearing - I run out of traction before needing them.

    2: Surly Mr. Whirly is a crankset resigned so that the small chainring is positioned like a middle ring on a conventional crankset. That way your chainring won't be so much inboard that using the small end of the cassette would distort the chainline (like a small-small combo usually does). 58 BCD 26t chainrings are available.

    For a regular trail bike the gearing does sound a bit small. I use 32 with 11-34 on my 26" AM bike.

  4. #4
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    IMO 26t will be to small for a single chainring set up. I have a 2x10 with a 11-36 in the back and a 26t - 36t in the front, which I do like. However, I do noticed that on the very steep climbs going 26 - 36 makes me loose momentum and I'm more efficient going to the next one down. What I'm saying is that on a 26t chainring you will not use the 36t cog, but will be missing the higher gears. On a single chainring set up I would go 30 for AM if you have lots of climbing and 32 for more XC.

  5. #5
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    Of course I'm assuming 26" wheel.

  6. #6
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    I consider similar gear ratio too ( I am ready to sacrifice some speed in downhills on road - the only place I need more gears ) , but if you are riding full sus 26t in front could compromise your suspension behavior - too much feedback, that's why I think of trying something like this
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 26T chainring ???-p4pb2710895.jpg  


  7. #7
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    I am using a 28 tooth "widgit" on a 1x9 hardtail, the widgit uses the 64 inner attachment of a xt crank, the bike is being used as urban, so I cant tell how the widgit would do on trail, but its working very well.
    The finish is not as good as MRP or Blackspire, wich I use on other bikes, but it works as a chainguide and light bashguard.

    Widgit for 3 ring crankset | Widgit


  8. #8
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    I don't know about you, but I've spun out in a 32-11 gearing on my local singletrack. Solved the problem (kinda) by going 11-34t cassette with a 34t ring in front.

    Unless you're TRYING to be slower, I'd say run a 30+t ring, get a wide-range cassette (10spd allows for 11-36 these days) and man up. After suffering for a few rides you'll end up faster on everything.
    Go ride your bike.

  9. #9
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    i wouldn't go any less than 32t. i think there is more than enough gearing to work on all but the steepest of climbs. i just can't see it being practical. especially by increasing the range on the cassette. if anything, i'd go to a smaller range on the cassette. something like 11-27
    RIP Adam Yauch

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  10. #10
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    I am currently running single ring 32 12-36 on my Rune and make it through most things without pushing. I think 26 would WAY too low of a gear, just keep riding and build up some more leg strength. Lowest I would imagine going would be 30

  11. #11
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    I have a poor man XX1.

    That is a Bling ring 28 t. in the front.
    And a 11-38 Cassette.
    Is OK for All Mountain Riding with lots of climbing.

  12. #12
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    sooo high

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by b1rdie View Post
    I am using a 28 tooth "widgit" on a 1x9 hardtail, the widgit uses the 64 inner attachment of a xt crank, the bike is being used as urban, so I cant tell how the widgit would do on trail, but its working very well.
    The finish is not as good as MRP or Blackspire, wich I use on other bikes, but it works as a chainguide and light bashguard.
    It works as a chainguide, but it DOES NOT work as a bash guard, even a light one. The moment it sees an obstacle it folds over.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    i wouldn't go any less than 32t. i think there is more than enough gearing to work on all but the steepest of climbs. i just can't see it being practical. especially by increasing the range on the cassette. if anything, i'd go to a smaller range on the cassette. something like 11-27
    That would depend on the trails you ride though? I had 28t, now 32... I do like the higher gearing going down, but 28t definitely had it's moment on slower technical trails where higher gearing was not needed.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dropadrop View Post
    That would depend on the trails you ride though? I had 28t, now 32... I do like the higher gearing going down, but 28t definitely had it's moment on slower technical trails where higher gearing was not needed.
    This, pretty much. I'm running a 30 x 11-36 on three bikes.

    Most of where I ride is a lot of short climbs and descents. They are tight and twisty enough, and with enough slow techy bits in between that spinning out on the way down isn't an issue, and neither is needing a granny.

    Also am coming from a start as a roadie, so spinning a faster cadence in a lower gear is what I'm used to as opposed slower with a higher gear.

    To the OP: pick up a few rings of different sizes, try them out, see what works for you and your riding. What works for one person may not work for everyone else, eh?
    Last edited by scrublover; 12-17-2012 at 04:02 AM.
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  16. #16
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    I used to run a 38/29 to a 11-34 on a 26". The 29-34 made for some hard climbs but it could be done. The 29 was good for quick accelerations too. I ride in New England,it worked for me. I can see a 28 or 30 working out well,not much for dirt roads but fine elsewhere.

  17. #17
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    what kind of crank? if it is spider less you can have someone custom fab you a 26t version of a bling ring. if not just buy a 26t granny and a blackspire granny god.

  18. #18
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    One thing to note: the way to get fast lap times and better average speed is mostly about avoiding low speeds. A higher momentary top speed you might achieve with higher gearing doesn't have that much of an effect on your total time.

  19. #19
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    thanks for the replies but i just now saw them ... the system didnt notified me that someone replied :-)

    I changed my target and now i am thinking on 28T

    on my bike i have 22-32 front and 11-34 back.
    currently on my rides i find myself using the 1-1 and 1-2 combos on long climbs. my bike weights around 15Kg and i need to use these gears.
    i want to put the 26T because this will put my most easy gear between my 1-2 and 1-3 gears and with a little hard work i will get use to it.
    the problem is that after talking to my LBS he told me that i will need a special chainguide for a single chainring.
    when i first thought about the setup i cam up with the current thinkg:
    1. finding a 28T that can replace my middle 32T chainring (better chain line?)
    2. using my current blackspire C4 bashgaurd to keep the chain from falling out
    3. keeping my blackspire stinger chain guide for tension

    will this be enough?

  20. #20
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    I'm running a 1x8 with 11-32 at the back and 34 teeth up front, I do occasionally want a lower gear when I'm tired but the top gear is just about perfect. I'll be switching to a 1x10 set-up with 11-36 back and keeping the 34 toothed ring up front, I reckon that will give me a wide enough range for just about anything.

  21. #21
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    Going to try 30x38 thinking it might be the perfect range for me and the terrain I mostly ride,from techy single track to DH runs.

  22. #22
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    so i didint get any answer yet

    if I take my current setup:
    1. SLX crankset with 22T-32T-bashgaurd
    2. blackspire stinger chain tensioner
    3. front derailer

    on this setup i:
    1. ditch my inner chainring
    2. remove the front derailer
    3. replace the 32T chainring with 30T

    will it work? what else i need to add so the chain wont fall from the chainring?
    if you can suggest cost effective solution it will be better since I am on a tight budget.

    10x in advance|

  23. #23
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    i just found the following device
    N Gear Jump Stop Chain Guide 1 3 8" 34 9mm New | eBay

    could this solve the problem a keep the chain from falling inward?

  24. #24
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    I would go for a 32-34 personally but 30-32 should be fine. You probably ride harder than I do but I've found that as long as I replace the chain / front ring when needed the chain never comes off. As you're on a budget, try it without the chain guide first and see how it goes.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    ...spinning out on the way down isn't an issue...

    Also am coming from a start as a roadie, so spinning a faster cadence in a lower gear is what I'm used to as opposed slower with a higher gear.
    +1, A quick burst of 100+ cadence will put a rider at 36+ tooth speed (which is usually trail limited anyway) then the downhill momentum will maintain that speed. A small front may give up some fire road downhill speed tho = so what

    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    To the OP: pick up a few rings of different sizes, try them out, see what works for you and your riding. What works for one person may not work for everyone else, eh?
    Great advice.

    P

  26. #26
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    the widget is the biggest peice of crap I've ever had on my bike!!!!!! not only do the chainguides on either side of the ring bend like tinfoil over every rock, if you ride anywhere where there is leaves or mud, they get picked up an stuck in the widget to the point of your chain riding on ground leaves and mud instead of your chain ring. I had a 28t and when I was researching it, everyone told me to just man up an with a 32t. So I went with a 32t mrp guide with bash and a 11-36 10 speed rear... should've listened to everyone in the beginning.. not one problem, pedals way more efficient than with a 28t and I've gotten ALOT stronger because I force myself to make the climb..
    Full time rider part time racer...

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  27. #27
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    I have decided.
    I will keep my 32t middle chainring and switch my cassette to 12-36.
    I hope the chain wont fall.
    If it will fall i will use the cheep guide to prevent it from falling inward.
    10x for all the help

  28. #28
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    I run a 26t x 11-36.......use a granny god as bash and n gear jump stop as inner guide on a blur 4x.......has worked out perfectly for me........I'd do a bashwich if I was strong enough to do a 32t up front

  29. #29
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    But if i use the inner chainring wont i have problems with the chainline

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    But if i use the inner chainring wont i have problems with the chainline
    Sure if you only use an inner chainring. The widget solves this by offsetting the chainring towards the middle. Other solutions such as the MRP rings remove the spider and the ring ends up towards the center.

  31. #31
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    I currently use a square taper bb so I was able to get a longer spindle to help the chainline, but currently building up new bike and won't have this option. I see people mention chainline, but what problems do people actually have?

  32. #32
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    32 tooth

    I run a 1 X 10 with a 32 tooth. A 26 tooth is way too small especially when going downhill!

  33. #33
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    On my 29er I run a 9sp 26-36 up front and a 34-11 out back. Standard 64/104 4 bolt crank. Works for me for my hills and such. Bash guard too for those New England rocks and logs.

  34. #34
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    I must not be as fast as others....I've only had my 1x9 setup for a year, but I've never need more than 26 x 11.....I don't race......where do you guys ride that you need a bigger gear, kind of curious how slow I am........

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    I have decided.
    I will keep my 32t middle chainring and switch my cassette to 12-36.
    I hope the chain wont fall.
    If it will fall i will use the cheep guide to prevent it from falling inward.
    10x for all the help
    The chain will fall.

    think of some kind of retention system because you will need it.

    The 32 by 36 combination is prone to give you problem, the chain will rub somewhere for sure, to get a good chainline at 1x9 or 1x10, a smaller chainring is better imho.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by b1rdie View Post
    The chain will fall.

    think of some kind of retention system because you will need it.

    The 32 by 36 combination is prone to give you problem, the chain will rub somewhere for sure, to get a good chainline at 1x9 or 1x10, a smaller chainring is better imho.
    what? the chainline will be the same whether the ring is 30, 32 or 48. i'm running 32 x12-36 and it's fine.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  37. #37
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    Guide/Bash Guard

    Now that you have decided on going 1 X 10 you need a chain guide. I would suggest the Straitline Silent Guide mtbiking.ca

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    tweights around 15Kg

    amurican boy, do you speak it?

  39. #39
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    the metric system is used by 99% of the world.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    the metric system is used by 99% of the world.
    ^^^This.

    As for dropping the chain, a couple things to minimize it.

    Short cage rear derailleur, clutch style if you can. Run as short a chain as you can get away with. An un-ramped chainring as well. Again, try it and see what works.

    Hardtail: bashring and JumpStop or some sort of upper guide is all most people need.

    Suspension: depends - on my 5" travel bike, an upper guide only works just fine. On my bike with near 7" of travel, an upper only resulted in once in a while chain drop, even with a clutch rear mech. Enough to make it annoying and have me use a full guide.

    Anything beyond that, well, it depends on your bike, your parts and particular setup, what sort of trails you ride, and how you ride them.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    ^^^This.

    As for dropping the chain, a couple things to minimize it.

    Short cage rear derailleur, clutch style if you can. Run as short a chain as you can get away with. An un-ramped chainring as well. Again, try it and see what works.

    Hardtail: bashring and JumpStop or some sort of upper guide is all most people need.

    Suspension: depends - on my 5" travel bike, an upper guide only works just fine. On my bike with near 7" of travel, an upper only resulted in once in a while chain drop, even with a clutch rear mech. Enough to make it annoying and have me use a full guide.

    Anything beyond that, well, it depends on your bike, your parts and particular setup, what sort of trails you ride, and how you ride them.
    Well, sort of. Ever wonder why handlebars were 25.4mm diameter? Oh yeah, that's an inch. Now they are "31.8mm" OR 1.25" diameter. So yeah, they use metric (and yes things are changing slowly over time) but rest of world really still use 'merican quite a bit.
    "It looks flexy"

  42. #42
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    Just ordered a canfield 9 tooth hub. Going to run this with a 28 tooth mrp bling ring and their micro guide. Since I was on a 2x9 with 24-36 and 11-32, the 1x10 will have close to the same range. Also increase in bb clearance (good thing on the low blur trc). Much cheaper than the xx1. Seems I am always behind the times. Just when they come out with an 11 speed, I'm ready to upgrade to 10.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    Well, sort of. Ever wonder why handlebars were 25.4mm diameter? Oh yeah, that's an inch. Now they are "31.8mm" OR 1.25" diameter. So yeah, they use metric (and yes things are changing slowly over time) but rest of world really still use 'merican quite a bit.
    Actually miles yards feet inches lbs gallons etc is not American at all. It's British. But only in mountain bike fiction do you see parts such as tires weighed in lbs and oz.

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    what? the chainline will be the same whether the ring is 30, 32 or 48. i'm running 32 x12-36 and it's fine.
    Think this is like what I mean:

    Chainline can also refer to the relative position of the front and rear cogs to each other, without regard to the bike centerline. This is called "effective chainline". A bike may have the crankset inward or outward some distance of the rear cogset center.

    took it from : Park Tool Co. » ParkTool Blog » Chain Line


    Would like to see you climb a 28% technical strech of more than 300m on a 48x36 ring on an all mountain rig.

    The topic is about a 28 ring, adapted.

    I tried it like this




    but prefered this:



    the inner ring almos touches the chainstay.

    This bike is not built for trail or all mountain, so it did go well with a 28 an 11x34, but my other bikes have a front derailleur, because i feel it gives a range that a single cannot do.

  45. #45
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    To simplify things i will like to know if there is a middle ring (104 bcd) with 30T?

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    To simplify things i will like to know if there is a middle ring (104 bcd) with 30T?
    I did looked at this very close, and no there is not a 30t for 104 bcd, and the reason is because the center dia of holes will be at the tooth. however, you can install a 30t widgit chainring which actually bolts in the granny holes (64 bcd), but they offset the center of the chainring so that the chain line is line with the center ring.

  47. #47
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    Black Spire Super Pro 30t,works great with there 38t big ring,can rip up or down.

  48. #48
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    I did looked at the super pro and from what I saw it jumps from 28t / 64bcd to 32t / 104 bcd. Where you can get the 30t? And is it 64 or 104 bcd?

  49. #49
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    Oh sorry it is 64bcd,I wanted to run two chain rings for a broader range of gearing for the various terrain I ride and for Enduros,any shop should be able to get them.Bti has them in stock.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    To simplify things i will like to know if there is a middle ring (104 bcd) with 30T?
    Yes, but you need to file the edge of the spider so the chain can have enough free space, there is a thread very interesting with photos in here somewhere.
    the manufacturer:
    30T Andersen’s Machine Chainring… « The Lazy Rando Blog…

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