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  1. #26
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    the widget is the biggest peice of crap I've ever had on my bike!!!!!! not only do the chainguides on either side of the ring bend like tinfoil over every rock, if you ride anywhere where there is leaves or mud, they get picked up an stuck in the widget to the point of your chain riding on ground leaves and mud instead of your chain ring. I had a 28t and when I was researching it, everyone told me to just man up an with a 32t. So I went with a 32t mrp guide with bash and a 11-36 10 speed rear... should've listened to everyone in the beginning.. not one problem, pedals way more efficient than with a 28t and I've gotten ALOT stronger because I force myself to make the climb..
    determined to put the "mountain" back in "MOUNTAIN BIKING!!!" "HIT IT!"
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  2. #27
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    I have decided.
    I will keep my 32t middle chainring and switch my cassette to 12-36.
    I hope the chain wont fall.
    If it will fall i will use the cheep guide to prevent it from falling inward.
    10x for all the help

  3. #28
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    I run a 26t x 11-36.......use a granny god as bash and n gear jump stop as inner guide on a blur 4x.......has worked out perfectly for me........I'd do a bashwich if I was strong enough to do a 32t up front

  4. #29
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    But if i use the inner chainring wont i have problems with the chainline

  5. #30
    wuss
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    But if i use the inner chainring wont i have problems with the chainline
    Sure if you only use an inner chainring. The widget solves this by offsetting the chainring towards the middle. Other solutions such as the MRP rings remove the spider and the ring ends up towards the center.

  6. #31
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    I currently use a square taper bb so I was able to get a longer spindle to help the chainline, but currently building up new bike and won't have this option. I see people mention chainline, but what problems do people actually have?

  7. #32
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    32 tooth

    I run a 1 X 10 with a 32 tooth. A 26 tooth is way too small especially when going downhill!
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  8. #33
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    On my 29er I run a 9sp 26-36 up front and a 34-11 out back. Standard 64/104 4 bolt crank. Works for me for my hills and such. Bash guard too for those New England rocks and logs.

  9. #34
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    I must not be as fast as others....I've only had my 1x9 setup for a year, but I've never need more than 26 x 11.....I don't race......where do you guys ride that you need a bigger gear, kind of curious how slow I am........

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    I have decided.
    I will keep my 32t middle chainring and switch my cassette to 12-36.
    I hope the chain wont fall.
    If it will fall i will use the cheep guide to prevent it from falling inward.
    10x for all the help
    The chain will fall.

    think of some kind of retention system because you will need it.

    The 32 by 36 combination is prone to give you problem, the chain will rub somewhere for sure, to get a good chainline at 1x9 or 1x10, a smaller chainring is better imho.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by b1rdie View Post
    The chain will fall.

    think of some kind of retention system because you will need it.

    The 32 by 36 combination is prone to give you problem, the chain will rub somewhere for sure, to get a good chainline at 1x9 or 1x10, a smaller chainring is better imho.
    what? the chainline will be the same whether the ring is 30, 32 or 48. i'm running 32 x12-36 and it's fine.
    RIP Adam Yauch

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  12. #37
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    Guide/Bash Guard

    Now that you have decided on going 1 X 10 you need a chain guide. I would suggest the Straitline Silent Guide mtbiking.ca
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  13. #38
    usually cranky
    Reputation: b-kul's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    tweights around 15Kg

    amurican boy, do you speak it?

  14. #39
    GAME ON!
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    the metric system is used by 99% of the world.
    RIP Adam Yauch

    "M.C. for what I AM and do, the A is for Adam and the lyrics; true"

  15. #40
    Te mortuo heres tibi sim?
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    the metric system is used by 99% of the world.
    ^^^This.

    As for dropping the chain, a couple things to minimize it.

    Short cage rear derailleur, clutch style if you can. Run as short a chain as you can get away with. An un-ramped chainring as well. Again, try it and see what works.

    Hardtail: bashring and JumpStop or some sort of upper guide is all most people need.

    Suspension: depends - on my 5" travel bike, an upper guide only works just fine. On my bike with near 7" of travel, an upper only resulted in once in a while chain drop, even with a clutch rear mech. Enough to make it annoying and have me use a full guide.

    Anything beyond that, well, it depends on your bike, your parts and particular setup, what sort of trails you ride, and how you ride them.
    Florence Nightingale's Stormtrooper

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by scrublover View Post
    ^^^This.

    As for dropping the chain, a couple things to minimize it.

    Short cage rear derailleur, clutch style if you can. Run as short a chain as you can get away with. An un-ramped chainring as well. Again, try it and see what works.

    Hardtail: bashring and JumpStop or some sort of upper guide is all most people need.

    Suspension: depends - on my 5" travel bike, an upper guide only works just fine. On my bike with near 7" of travel, an upper only resulted in once in a while chain drop, even with a clutch rear mech. Enough to make it annoying and have me use a full guide.

    Anything beyond that, well, it depends on your bike, your parts and particular setup, what sort of trails you ride, and how you ride them.
    Well, sort of. Ever wonder why handlebars were 25.4mm diameter? Oh yeah, that's an inch. Now they are "31.8mm" OR 1.25" diameter. So yeah, they use metric (and yes things are changing slowly over time) but rest of world really still use 'merican quite a bit.
    "It looks flexy"

  17. #42
    YRG
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    Just ordered a canfield 9 tooth hub. Going to run this with a 28 tooth mrp bling ring and their micro guide. Since I was on a 2x9 with 24-36 and 11-32, the 1x10 will have close to the same range. Also increase in bb clearance (good thing on the low blur trc). Much cheaper than the xx1. Seems I am always behind the times. Just when they come out with an 11 speed, I'm ready to upgrade to 10.

  18. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by gticlay View Post
    Well, sort of. Ever wonder why handlebars were 25.4mm diameter? Oh yeah, that's an inch. Now they are "31.8mm" OR 1.25" diameter. So yeah, they use metric (and yes things are changing slowly over time) but rest of world really still use 'merican quite a bit.
    Actually miles yards feet inches lbs gallons etc is not American at all. It's British. But only in mountain bike fiction do you see parts such as tires weighed in lbs and oz.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by saturnine View Post
    what? the chainline will be the same whether the ring is 30, 32 or 48. i'm running 32 x12-36 and it's fine.
    Think this is like what I mean:

    Chainline can also refer to the relative position of the front and rear cogs to each other, without regard to the bike centerline. This is called "effective chainline". A bike may have the crankset inward or outward some distance of the rear cogset center.

    took it from : Park Tool Co. ParkTool Blog Chain Line


    Would like to see you climb a 28% technical strech of more than 300m on a 48x36 ring on an all mountain rig.

    The topic is about a 28 ring, adapted.

    I tried it like this




    but prefered this:



    the inner ring almos touches the chainstay.

    This bike is not built for trail or all mountain, so it did go well with a 28 an 11x34, but my other bikes have a front derailleur, because i feel it gives a range that a single cannot do.

  20. #45
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    To simplify things i will like to know if there is a middle ring (104 bcd) with 30T?

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    To simplify things i will like to know if there is a middle ring (104 bcd) with 30T?
    I did looked at this very close, and no there is not a 30t for 104 bcd, and the reason is because the center dia of holes will be at the tooth. however, you can install a 30t widgit chainring which actually bolts in the granny holes (64 bcd), but they offset the center of the chainring so that the chain line is line with the center ring.

  22. #47
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    Black Spire Super Pro 30t,works great with there 38t big ring,can rip up or down.

  23. #48
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    I did looked at the super pro and from what I saw it jumps from 28t / 64bcd to 32t / 104 bcd. Where you can get the 30t? And is it 64 or 104 bcd?

  24. #49
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    Oh sorry it is 64bcd,I wanted to run two chain rings for a broader range of gearing for the various terrain I ride and for Enduros,any shop should be able to get them.Bti has them in stock.

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by vichila View Post
    To simplify things i will like to know if there is a middle ring (104 bcd) with 30T?
    Yes, but you need to file the edge of the spider so the chain can have enough free space, there is a thread very interesting with photos in here somewhere.
    the manufacturer:
    30T Andersen’s Machine Chainring… The Lazy Rando Blog…

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