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  1. #1
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    Just curious what other people out there are riding on their trail/AM bikes.

    I had a 30T and just swapped to a 28T but haven't ridden it yet. I find myself at least once per ride wishing I had one more easier gear but unless I'm on pavement going towards the trail, I've never wished I had higher gearing.

  2. #2
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    50t

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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    30t front 36 rear and I have a 42t rear waiting for anew chain
    I'm sick of all the Irish stereotypes, as soon as I finish this beer I"m punching someone

  4. #4
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    34t with 11-36.

  5. #5
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    30t with 11-42 10 speed. Might be able to use a 32 but there are certain climbs where it would be tough.

  6. #6
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    36T with 11-36 cassette.

  7. #7
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    30t with 11-36 cassette
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  8. #8
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    30t with 11-36 as well, works great for me

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Just curious what other people out there are riding on their trail/AM bikes.

    I had a 30T and just swapped to a 28T but haven't ridden it yet. I find myself at least once per ride wishing I had one more easier gear but unless I'm on pavement going towards the trail, I've never wished I had higher gearing.
    Where did you get the 28T?
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  10. #10
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    28 tooth front, 42 tooth rear on 1x11 with a next SL crank. I'm often above 9000 feet and climbing steep stuff, so the 30 tooth is just a bit too much for me. It's the same ratio as a 24 front, 36 rear.

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    Unregard.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Where did you get the 28T?
    XX1 and Next SL both have 28 tooth options. XO1 does not.

  13. #13
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    I think wheel size should be mentioned, AM rides can easily be any of the 3 major sizes. Still in the air on 1x10, been trying to ride my 2x10 setup as a 1x with 33 front. I'm thinking 30 with 11-36 will be my choice for my 27.5 on my terrain, the front could easily change depending on where I go.

  14. #14
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    32t 11-40

  15. #15
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    Re: 1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    34t

    Haven't rode it yet


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  16. #16
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    34t with an 11-36

  17. #17
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    Wheel size is relevant as well as where you ride and what type of riding.

    I ride 27.5 in southern New England. Tech with lots of short climbs. I run 32 front 10-42 rear. Ratios are perfect for me. I can climb anything around here and only spin out on the road.


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    30t, but that's mainly because I was using an ultegra cassette. A 32 would probably be a little better for me now.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  19. #19
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    30tooth, 42tooth rear cog, 29" wheel = perfection

  20. #20
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    32t, 13-40.

  21. #21
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    I've been toying around with different size chain rings and cassettes lately. On my 29er I'm running a 32t with a 12-36 10 speed cassette. This setup seems to suit the big wheels well, I can climb up about anything with a bit of momentum.

    On my 26er I just put a 30t paired with an 11-34 9 speed cassette. The smaller wheels don't climb as well so I hope the 30t ring will get it up the steep hills.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    I've been toying around with different size chain rings and cassettes lately. On my 29er I'm running a 32t with a 12-36 10 speed cassette. This setup seems to suit the big wheels well, I can climb up about anything with a bit of momentum.

    On my 26er I just put a 30t paired with an 11-34 9 speed cassette. The smaller wheels don't climb as well so I hope the 30t ring will get it up the steep hills.
    some good setups VT, my 22/32 with 11/34 works great however if i went 1x i suspect a 30t would be my choice as well.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by nvphatty View Post
    some good setups VT, my 22/32 with 11/34 works great however if i went 1x i suspect a 30t would be my choice as well.
    Thanks man, if you do ever go 1x, I recommend the Race Face narrow/wide 30t - it fits a standard 104 BCD cranks the easiest.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vespasianus View Post
    Where did you get the 28T?
    Absolute Black. Just got back from my first ride and it's incredible.

  25. #25
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    11-34 cassette and 34T narrow-wide. 26 incher!!

  26. #26
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    28t with 10-42. That is for 29-er, for 26 inch wheel I would stay with 30t ring.

  27. #27
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    32t with 11-34 9speed on 26" wheels riding the western slope of Colorado. I find I gas out too soon on some trails so I'm gonna try a 30t NW with a 12-36 cassette.

  28. #28
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    32t pushing 11-34 9spd on both my bikes.

    I used to push a 36t chain ring but a combination of injury and overly long downtime has de-powered me this year.

  29. #29
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    32t 1x10 on a Race Face Turbine crank, 26x4 fatbike at 11-42t with a Wolftooth Giant Cog & 11-36 an a 29er wheel set. At first, the 32t was not low enough, but after 3 months & about 600 miles of riding, I rarely get into the 36t cog on climbs, let alone the 42t bailout gear.

  30. #30
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    32t driving an 11-36 cassette on a 26er. Techy trails with lots of steep ups and downs. Occasionally I would like one easier gear so I'm likely to stick a 40 or 42t cog on my cassette in the near future. I only spin it out on fire roads. I certainly never go fast enough for it to be an issue on any local singletrack.

  31. #31
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    Is there anyone here running 32 or bigger who's on a 29er and weighs over 200?

  32. #32
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    28 front, XX1 11spd 10-42 rear, 27.5in tires. I need that to climb some local trails and roads with my old knees...

  33. #33
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    36T with 11-36 cassette.

    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?-chainring.jpg

  34. #34
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    28t on a xo1 29er. Geared specifically for 24% tech climb that is part of my local loop. Sacrificed a lot of top end

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Is there anyone here running 32 or bigger who's on a 29er and weighs over 200?
    Yes. Again, 36 tooth with a 11-36 ten speed rear. On an Anthem 29er. I weight ~220 without my pack on.

  36. #36
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    30t with an 11-36t cassette. Wish I would have gone 32t.

  37. #37
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    34 / 11-36 Stumpy EVO ht @ 21lbs

    32 / 11-36 Civilian Luddite @ 25lbs.

  38. #38
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    OP, I'm 265 and run a 32t or a 28t depending on where I ride.
    I'm going to rob banks til I retire or get caught. Either way I'm set for life

  39. #39
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    I'm 210 and running a 32t w/ 11-36 cassette. Just about perfect for where I ride.

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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by homeless junkie View Post
    OP, I'm 265 and run a 32t or a 28t depending on where I ride.
    Cool. 235-240 here and 30T is fine for most but I'm going to leave the 28T up there for now. I have an 11-36 cassette. If I had a 10-42 cassette I'd be fine with 30 or 32T

  41. #41
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    32t up front with 11-36 on a Yeti 29r in Northern Utah.

    I do 2,000 - 3,000+ feet of climbing per ride on average. Some climbs have felt fairly stiff with the somewhat-limited gearing, but no major issues so far.

    Our stiffer, high-elevation riding is about 95% open now so I'm now dropping down to a 30t up front. I will eventually add the 42t in back if I feel it is necessary after installing the 30t up front.

  42. #42
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    30t with 11-42 Wolf Tooth, love it.

  43. #43
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    2x10 is the new 1x11! Great range with 24/38 to 11/40 WT. Shimano drive train w/ clutch RD is super smooth and quiet. Perfect geezer gearing on my Carbine 29 for the long summer alpine climbs to 12k and I love cranking the big gears on the way down.
    Don't think I could live with the 1by. Sorry if this post would be better on another thread.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Cool. 235-240 here and 30T is fine for most but I'm going to leave the 28T up there for now. I have an 11-36 cassette. If I had a 10-42 cassette I'd be fine with 30 or 32T
    I never run outta high gear if I run 28T and I have 10-42 cassette. The trails I've been riding are slow and super techy.

    I think 1x is the new 2x10. The only problem I've had is mud. We had a crazy wet spring in MD. The total opposite of where I'm at now.
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheCanary View Post
    2x10 is the new 1x11! Great range with 24/38 to 11/40 WT. Shimano drive train w/ clutch RD is super smooth and quiet. Perfect geezer gearing on my Carbine 29 for the long summer alpine climbs to 12k and I love cranking the big gears on the way down.
    Don't think I could live with the 1by. Sorry if this post would be better on another thread.
    I think you'd be surprised how well you can do with less. I thought I was struggle with a 32t / 11-36 living where I do (Utah), but so far, I'm just proving to myself that I can push harder than I thought I could. I DO want a bit more range with the 42t in back, but so far, I'm pumped with the 1x.

  46. #46
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    42t Oneup with 32 NW chainring, 27.5

  47. #47
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    Usually 34t with 11-36, bit tough on some climbs around where I ride.
    Updated to 30t with 11-36 for steeper climbs, seems too easy now compared to 34t.
    Might try 32t instead.
    on 27.5.

  48. #48
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    Running a 32 on my Superfly and Fuel EX, going to a 34 on on my Yeti SB-66 when I build it up. The 32 does a good job on the Superfly, not so much the up gearing from the larger wheels, more just that the Fuel EX attacks things a bit more aggressively so I can find myself spinning out when I've got a bit of a gravity advantage.

  49. #49
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    30T x 13-42
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  50. #50
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    My Butcher is 32 / 11-36 with 26" wheels. I've considered swapping for a 34 as I spin out more often than I use the big cog, but it's nice to have the bail out gear.
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  51. #51
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    36t up front and 11/36 cassette on my 29er but I just ordered a 32t ring because I am still trying to get into the shape I was in last year and the 36t can be a bit brutal.

    I do wonder if there is a great deal of variation on the amount and steepness of climbing that people do. Here in Northern California the climbing portion of my rides all seem to average out around 4% -- which seems embarrassingly tame as a climb. But of course, for an average 20 mile ride this adds up to ~2000' of climbing (assuming 10 miles of the ride are up and 10 miles are down). To me (old and slow) that's a respectable ride with portions that are 10-20% or short sections that are steeper. So, do you know the average % of the climbing portion of your rides and what is it?

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by borabora
    I do wonder if there is a great deal of variation on the amount and steepness of climbing that people do. Here in Northern California the climbing portion of my rides all seem to average out around 4% -- which seems embarrassingly tame as a climb. But of course, for an average 20 mile ride this adds up to ~2000' of climbing (assuming 10 miles of the ride are up and 10 miles are down). To me (old and slow) that's a respectable ride with portions that are 10-20% or short sections that are steeper. So, do you know the average % of the climbing portion of your rides and what is it?
    4% may sound tame but as an average I would say thats pretty good. Odds are, if you're riding trails, you've got a couple of places in there FAR higher than that 4%, which are the places that seem tough.

    On a side note, one of the reasons roadies can get by with so much taller gearing is because the gradient on paved roads is limited intentionally, both for structural reasons and for transportation reasons. MTB trails are limited only by geology, and sometimes with creative trail builders, they're limited only by physics. In other words, a road ride averaging 4% is, IMO, generally going to be much easier than a MTB ride averaging 4%.

    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    36t up front and 11/36 cassette on my 29er but I just ordered a 32t ring because I am still trying to get into the shape I was in last year and the 36t can be a bit brutal.
    As you know 36T chainring on a 1x10 29er is nuts. I don't even think thats a matter of being in shape its just a tall gear, I suspect you'll be much happier with the 32T and there's no shame in that.
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  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by ghost_03 View Post
    4% may sound tame but as an average I would say thats pretty good. Odds are, if you're riding trails, you've got a couple of places in there FAR higher than that 4%, which are the places that seem tough.

    On a side note, one of the reasons roadies can get by with so much taller gearing is because the gradient on paved roads is limited intentionally, both for structural reasons and for transportation reasons. MTB trails are limited only by geology, and sometimes with creative trail builders, they're limited only by physics. In other words, a road ride averaging 4% is, IMO, generally going to be much easier than a MTB ride averaging 4%.
    great summation.

  54. #54
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    32 and 11/42 on my 26"

    30 and 11/42 on the 27.5"

    I spend more time on steep climbs than hauling @$$ on descents... I haven't run out of gear either way yet, so the choice appears to be right.

  55. #55
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    28 front e*thirteen crank set, XX1 11spd 10-42 rear on my 29er Ripley.

    I've gotten used to not having that granny gear on my 2x10, love the 1x11!

  56. #56
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    32-42 on my T-29. Sometimes I wish for a 30, but not often.

  57. #57
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    30/10-42 works awesome for 27.5", all trails including steeps. Have to chuckle at those who insisted 34/11-36 was good for them and anything less was not "manly". They were pushing while I continue to ride up the steepest trails. Now guess who wants me to order a 42t cog for them?! LOL To each their own...

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  58. #58
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    This thread is useless without location. The flats in the midwest is a completely different environment than high alpine in the mountain states. I'm in Colorado and spend most of my time around 10,000' (I don't do much front range riding).

    30x11-36 on my light bike

    32x11-36 on my heavy bike with a 24T granny gear that I manually switch to for the longer climbs

    30x11 isn't a high enough gear for when I want to throw in a few pedals on the downhill. I get annoyed by this a few times per ride. 32x11 actually works though, surprisingly. 30x36 is just barely passable in most situations. I only end up walking up the longer steep climbs (usually long steep dirt roads). With the heavy bike in 32x36, I definitely notice myself walking more, in general. It's not quite enough. On long sustained climbs, I manually switch to the 24T granny gear. I've liked this decision quite a bit lately. You get the benefit of 1x with a true bailout for when you REALLY need it.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindahl View Post
    This thread is useless without location. The flats in the midwest is a completely different environment than high alpine in the mountain states. I'm in Colorado and spend most of my time around 10,000' (I don't do much front range riding).

    30x11-36 on my light bike

    32x11-36 on my heavy bike with a 24T granny gear that I manually switch to for the longer climbs

    30x11 isn't a high enough gear for when I want to throw in a few pedals on the downhill. I get annoyed by this a few times per ride. 32x11 actually works though, surprisingly. 30x36 is just barely passable in most situations. I only end up walking up the longer steep climbs (usually long steep dirt roads). With the heavy bike in 32x36, I definitely notice myself walking more, in general. It's not quite enough. On long sustained climbs, I manually switch to the 24T granny gear. I've liked this decision quite a bit lately. You get the benefit of 1x with a true bailout for when you REALLY need it.
    I agree that without more information about the type of riding people do this thread is of limited use. But location or elevation don't really help. There surely are flat sections of Colorado and while riding at 10,000' sounds great (really!) it doesn't tell me what % climb and total elevation you experience while gasping for oxygen.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    I agree that without more information about the type of riding people do this thread is of limited use. But location or elevation don't really help. There surely are flat sections of Colorado and while riding at 10,000' sounds great (really!) it doesn't tell me what % climb and total elevation you experience while gasping for oxygen.
    Average for the whole area for me is about 1,000' of climbing per 6-7 miles and I'm on a 29er with a 28T ring, 11-36 cassette, and I'm 235-240lbs

    Recently switched from 30T and I'm liking the lower gearing

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Average for the whole area for me is about 1,000' of climbing per 6-7 miles and I'm on a 29er with a 28T ring, 11-36 cassette, and I'm 235-240lbs

    Recently switched from 30T and I'm liking the lower gearing
    That's about a 3% average. Is that pretty representative for CO? Pretty much in the range of what you'll find in Northern California for popular loops (counting only the climbing portion). No supplemental O2 required, though.

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    That's about a 3% average. Is that pretty representative for CO? Pretty much in the range of what you'll find in Northern California for popular loops (counting only the climbing portion). No supplemental O2 required, though.
    Dunno how you did your math but 1k per 6-7 = 3% average for only the climbing sections?

    That sounds way off. I'm looking at my strava and it's showing plenty of sustained 20-30% sections with hardly anything below 10% for what I'd call a "climb" anyway

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    He's only counting the climbing portions. Pretty sure 1k per 6-7 miles is the whole ride. I'd say average out here is about 1k per 2-3 miles on a climb, but it can certainly get more strenuous.

    For example, my last ride on my 30x36 light bike was 8.4 miles total, with 2363' point-to-point of climbing. That's about 2300' in 4 miles:
    Ptarmigan Peak Mountain Bike Trail, Dillon, CO

    Also, there's a big difference between doing a bunch of small ups and downs (when you can use your momentum), and long climbs followed by long descents. I still think the general location and fitness level makes more sense when trying to figure out what gearing might work for you, otherwise the number of factors you have to consider become too overwhelming to lead to meaningful consideration.

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alias530 View Post
    Dunno how you did your math but 1k per 6-7 = 3% average for only the climbing sections?

    That sounds way off. I'm looking at my strava and it's showing plenty of sustained 20-30% sections with hardly anything below 10% for what I'd call a "climb" anyway

    1000/(6.5*5280) = 0.02913 which is 2.91%

    If the 6-7 miles (I just use 6.5 miles for simplicity) is an up/down loop then you can assume that half of the distance is up and half of it is down which would double the average climbing rate to 5.82%

    If you look back several posts you'll find mine which pretty much says the same thing: an average 4% sounds very tame but in reality it can be strenuous (at least to me). But that's also why I think quantifying these things would help when discussing gearing.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindahl View Post
    He's only counting the climbing portions. Pretty sure 1k per 6-7 miles is the whole ride. I'd say average out here is about 1k per 2-3 miles on a climb, but it can certainly get more strenuous.

    For example, my last ride on my 30x36 light bike was 8.4 miles total, with 2363' point-to-point of climbing. That's about 2300' in 4 miles:
    Ptarmigan Peak Mountain Bike Trail, Dillon, CO

    Also, there's a big difference between doing a bunch of small ups and downs (when you can use your momentum), and long climbs followed by long descents. I still think the general location and fitness level makes more sense when trying to figure out what gearing might work for you, otherwise the number of factors you have to consider become too overwhelming to lead to meaningful consideration.
    Sorry -- I got the two of you mixed up. You are representing CO and Alias530 is in CA. That makes much more sense to me. And if you are saying that climbs are 10%ish in CO that's kind of what I'd expect.

    I am not going to argue that there aren't many more important factors to take into consideration when selecting gear ratios than average climb %. The problem is that these factors can't be easily quantified.

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    5% at 400' above sea level is vastly different than 5% at 9k'......

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by UtahJohn View Post
    5% at 400' above sea level is vastly different than 5% at 9k'......
    I think it really depends whether you are acclimated to the altitude or not. It's a huge factor if you are not but not such a big deal if you are. Of course even in the Rockys most people don't live at 9k' even if they may bike there.

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    Acclimated or not you are climbing slower at elevation, and may need a gearing change to accommodate things. There is stuff you can get away with down low that you'll get punished for up high, acclimated or not. I ride at elevation, and feel like superman below 3k', and could easily put a 2T bigger ring in the front down there and hardly notice.

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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    It's not all just how much climbing you do. It's the type. When I lived in AZ I rode plenty of 25-30 mile rides with over 5,000 feet of climbing throughout AZ, CO, and CA. Many at or over 10,000 feet in elevation. I was fine on a 32 t there. Here is PA there are no 5 mile long burner climbs, the longest being maybe a mile. And I am at 1,000 feet elevation. I typically still gain about 1,000 feet in 7-8 miles though. And 30t is more appropriate. There are times I wish I did 32 t, but a rock garden on a climb (which is pretty much what PA is) means you need a lower gear.

  70. #70
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    I run a 30t up front with a 11-36 cassette.

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  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by patrick2cents View Post
    34t with 11-36.
    Same here. 26er. And I'll admit that a 40t cog seems attractive once in a while, but not so attractive that I've actually gotten off my @$$ to order one yet.

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    30T and 11-42T on a Giant Reign SX that I use for all mountain rides that include going both uphill and downhill.

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    26t on a 10-42 x01 29er
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointerDixie214 View Post
    It's not all just how much climbing you do. It's the type. When I lived in AZ I rode plenty of 25-30 mile rides with over 5,000 feet of climbing throughout AZ, CO, and CA. Many at or over 10,000 feet in elevation. I was fine on a 32 t there. Here is PA there are no 5 mile long burner climbs, the longest being maybe a mile. And I am at 1,000 feet elevation. I typically still gain about 1,000 feet in 7-8 miles though. And 30t is more appropriate. There are times I wish I did 32 t, but a rock garden on a climb (which is pretty much what PA is) means you need a lower gear.
    I find the opposite. It's the long slow high-grade climbs that I need a lower gear. When going through rock gardens, momentum is your friend, and I do better now than I did before with a granny gear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindahl View Post
    I find the opposite. It's the long slow high-grade climbs that I need a lower gear. When going through rock gardens, momentum is your friend, and I do better now than I did before with a granny gear.
    I guess different (pedal) strokes for different folks, eh? lol I agree on momentum being your friend in rock gardens, especially those I encountered out West. But the ones I encounter here you can only keep so much momentum for so long. After a while being able to crawl through them is a much.

    But then there are plenty of people here who ride bigger rings up front too.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    36t up front and 11/36 cassette on my 29er but I just ordered a 32t ring because I am still trying to get into the shape I was in last year and the 36t can be a bit brutal.

    I do wonder if there is a great deal of variation on the amount and steepness of climbing that people do. Here in Northern California the climbing portion of my rides all seem to average out around 4% -- which seems embarrassingly tame as a climb. But of course, for an average 20 mile ride this adds up to ~2000' of climbing (assuming 10 miles of the ride are up and 10 miles are down). To me (old and slow) that's a respectable ride with portions that are 10-20% or short sections that are steeper. So, do you know the average % of the climbing portion of your rides and what is it?
    My last ride averaged 8% with a max of 15%. The way in which it is measured is a bit of a mystery to me (it's off Runtastic) but it's about 3200 feet of climbing in 18 miles, round trip. The majority of the climbing is in the first 8.6 miles. That's Park City, Utah. Sweeny's to John's to Steps, up Puke Hill.

  77. #77
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    30t x 11/36 on process 153 in Vermont. 1200' vert over 2 miles on resort access road left me wishing for a better sit n' spin option but I will get stronger. In very rocky, technical terrain the gearing/geometry leaves me wishing for something more. But that's the trade off for riding a bomber and I don't think smaller ring would help much. I've found that climbing out of the saddle in the second or third biggest cog is the best way to approach super tech. I did have to upgrade the freehub to ti xtr to handle gear mash.

  78. #78
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    34x10-42 on my BLur LTC, 36x10-42 on my 29er HT. The Blur is usually used in terrain where a bigger ring would get hung up on rocks, and is steep enough that gravity does the vast majority of the work.


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    My GT Distortion has a RaceFace 34t narrow/wide ring up front and an XT 11/36 rear cassette. I've been happy with that so far, but that's what the bike came with and, truth be told, this is my first MTB since 96/97... so I don't really have anything to compare it to. Been interesting reading what everyone has though.

  80. #80
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    34 hope x 11-40t-rex 29er

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    Quote Originally Posted by pointerDixie214 View Post
    I guess different (pedal) strokes for different folks, eh? lol I agree on momentum being your friend in rock gardens, especially those I encountered out West. But the ones I encounter here you can only keep so much momentum for so long. After a while being able to crawl through them is a much.

    But then there are plenty of people here who ride bigger rings up front too.
    I think my riding style agrees with yours. On long, steady, drawn out climbs I usually don't need to use the lowest gears as when my cadence starts to drop I can just stand up for a few pedal strokes to speed back up. Its the technical climbs--either short, extremely steep sections, or rocky/rough sections--where I use the short gearing to keep from, basically, stalling out.
    '12 Santa Cruz Superlight 29 | '12 Santa Cruz Butcher | '06 Specialized Allez Comp | '81 Schwinn Converted Fixie

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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    Funny, I do the exact opposite. I sit and spin in a low gear on long climbs - most are too steep to do anything but the lowest with 1x10. On steep rocky stuff, I rush into it and stand up to keep from stalling while keeping momentum up. IfI were to sit and spin, there'd be no way I'd have enough momentum to clear ledges and roots.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindahl View Post
    Funny, I do the exact opposite. I sit and spin in a low gear on long climbs - most are too steep to do anything but the lowest with 1x10. On steep rocky stuff, I rush into it and stand up to keep from stalling while keeping momentum up.
    lol thats funny. to clarify, i'm usually standing and rushing and trying to build momentum as you say for shorter rock gardens. it's when they're so long or so steep that i can't build enough momentum to make it through the whole thing that i sit and either 'rock crawl' or spin like an airplane prop.
    '12 Santa Cruz Superlight 29 | '12 Santa Cruz Butcher | '06 Specialized Allez Comp | '81 Schwinn Converted Fixie

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    after switching to a 1x10 with a 42t Wolftooth Giant Cog & a 32t chainring a few months ago, I've found that my riding style has changed dramatically. Previously, I'd use my granny gear to tackle most steep climbs and initially, after installing the GC, used it for most of my climbs, as well. However, after 4 months with the 1x GC setup, I've found that I'm doing the majority of my climbs in either the 28t or 32t cogs and only use the 36 and 42t for bailouts on the hardest, most lung-busting climbs

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    after switching to a 1x10 with a 42t Wolftooth Giant Cog & a 32t chainring a few months ago, I've found that my riding style has changed dramatically. Previously, I'd use my granny gear to tackle most steep climbs and initially, after installing the GC, used it for most of my climbs, as well. However, after 4 months with the 1x GC setup, I've found that I'm doing the majority of my climbs in either the 28t or 32t cogs and only use the 36 and 42t for bailouts on the hardest, most lung-busting climbs
    Was the 42 t cog pretty straightforward to install?

  86. #86
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    yep. on a bare freewheel hub, install the 42t cog, remove either the 15 or 17t cog & spacer, install cassette & lock ring, ride. It was recommended to remove the 17t cog, but I found that I would spin out on the 19t and the 15t was too high to switch to & I'd lose momentum. Instead, I removed the 15t and found the transition much more tolerable. That said, Wolftooth is developing a 16t cog for a better transition. I may get one when it is available.

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    yep. on a bare freewheel hub, install the 42t cog, remove either the 15 or 17t cog & spacer, install cassette & lock ring, ride. It was recommended to remove the 17t cog, but I found that I would spin out on the 19t and the 15t was too high to switch to & I'd lose momentum. Instead, I removed the 15t and found the transition much more tolerable. That said, Wolftooth is developing a 16t cog for a better transition. I may get one when it is available.
    Thanks. I'm kind of confused by the the 16t. You would add the 42 and 16 and remove what exactly? 15 and 17?

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by 802spokestoke View Post
    Thanks. I'm kind of confused by the the 16t. You would add the 42 and 16 and remove what exactly? 15 and 17?
    You can get a 16 from a road bike cassette too

    Add the 42, remove the 17, and replace the 15 with a 16

    11-13-16-19 vs 11-13-15-19. Better spacing.

  89. #89
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    OneUp is now sending a "free" 16t along with their 40 or 42t. I'm assuming they are now trying really hard to deal with all of the competition and some lower-priced options.

  90. #90
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    one up 16t is hit or miss, depending on your setup. i found best for a zee rd is to clock the cog in between sr & sh, but ditched it for an xt 16t.

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