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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by borabora View Post
    36t up front and 11/36 cassette on my 29er but I just ordered a 32t ring because I am still trying to get into the shape I was in last year and the 36t can be a bit brutal.

    I do wonder if there is a great deal of variation on the amount and steepness of climbing that people do. Here in Northern California the climbing portion of my rides all seem to average out around 4% -- which seems embarrassingly tame as a climb. But of course, for an average 20 mile ride this adds up to ~2000' of climbing (assuming 10 miles of the ride are up and 10 miles are down). To me (old and slow) that's a respectable ride with portions that are 10-20% or short sections that are steeper. So, do you know the average % of the climbing portion of your rides and what is it?
    My last ride averaged 8% with a max of 15%. The way in which it is measured is a bit of a mystery to me (it's off Runtastic) but it's about 3200 feet of climbing in 18 miles, round trip. The majority of the climbing is in the first 8.6 miles. That's Park City, Utah. Sweeny's to John's to Steps, up Puke Hill.

  2. #77
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    30t x 11/36 on process 153 in Vermont. 1200' vert over 2 miles on resort access road left me wishing for a better sit n' spin option but I will get stronger. In very rocky, technical terrain the gearing/geometry leaves me wishing for something more. But that's the trade off for riding a bomber and I don't think smaller ring would help much. I've found that climbing out of the saddle in the second or third biggest cog is the best way to approach super tech. I did have to upgrade the freehub to ti xtr to handle gear mash.

  3. #78
    Formerly of Kent
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    34x10-42 on my BLur LTC, 36x10-42 on my 29er HT. The Blur is usually used in terrain where a bigger ring would get hung up on rocks, and is steep enough that gravity does the vast majority of the work.


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  4. #79
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    My GT Distortion has a RaceFace 34t narrow/wide ring up front and an XT 11/36 rear cassette. I've been happy with that so far, but that's what the bike came with and, truth be told, this is my first MTB since 96/97... so I don't really have anything to compare it to. Been interesting reading what everyone has though.

  5. #80
    squish, squish in da fish
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    34 hope x 11-40t-rex 29er

  6. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by pointerDixie214 View Post
    I guess different (pedal) strokes for different folks, eh? lol I agree on momentum being your friend in rock gardens, especially those I encountered out West. But the ones I encounter here you can only keep so much momentum for so long. After a while being able to crawl through them is a much.

    But then there are plenty of people here who ride bigger rings up front too.
    I think my riding style agrees with yours. On long, steady, drawn out climbs I usually don't need to use the lowest gears as when my cadence starts to drop I can just stand up for a few pedal strokes to speed back up. Its the technical climbs--either short, extremely steep sections, or rocky/rough sections--where I use the short gearing to keep from, basically, stalling out.
    '12 Santa Cruz Superlight 29 | '12 Santa Cruz Butcher | '06 Specialized Allez Comp | '81 Schwinn Converted Fixie

  7. #82
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    1x drivetrain crew--what size is your chainring?

    Funny, I do the exact opposite. I sit and spin in a low gear on long climbs - most are too steep to do anything but the lowest with 1x10. On steep rocky stuff, I rush into it and stand up to keep from stalling while keeping momentum up. IfI were to sit and spin, there'd be no way I'd have enough momentum to clear ledges and roots.

  8. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lindahl View Post
    Funny, I do the exact opposite. I sit and spin in a low gear on long climbs - most are too steep to do anything but the lowest with 1x10. On steep rocky stuff, I rush into it and stand up to keep from stalling while keeping momentum up.
    lol thats funny. to clarify, i'm usually standing and rushing and trying to build momentum as you say for shorter rock gardens. it's when they're so long or so steep that i can't build enough momentum to make it through the whole thing that i sit and either 'rock crawl' or spin like an airplane prop.
    '12 Santa Cruz Superlight 29 | '12 Santa Cruz Butcher | '06 Specialized Allez Comp | '81 Schwinn Converted Fixie

  9. #84
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    after switching to a 1x10 with a 42t Wolftooth Giant Cog & a 32t chainring a few months ago, I've found that my riding style has changed dramatically. Previously, I'd use my granny gear to tackle most steep climbs and initially, after installing the GC, used it for most of my climbs, as well. However, after 4 months with the 1x GC setup, I've found that I'm doing the majority of my climbs in either the 28t or 32t cogs and only use the 36 and 42t for bailouts on the hardest, most lung-busting climbs
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  10. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    after switching to a 1x10 with a 42t Wolftooth Giant Cog & a 32t chainring a few months ago, I've found that my riding style has changed dramatically. Previously, I'd use my granny gear to tackle most steep climbs and initially, after installing the GC, used it for most of my climbs, as well. However, after 4 months with the 1x GC setup, I've found that I'm doing the majority of my climbs in either the 28t or 32t cogs and only use the 36 and 42t for bailouts on the hardest, most lung-busting climbs
    Was the 42 t cog pretty straightforward to install?

  11. #86
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    yep. on a bare freewheel hub, install the 42t cog, remove either the 15 or 17t cog & spacer, install cassette & lock ring, ride. It was recommended to remove the 17t cog, but I found that I would spin out on the 19t and the 15t was too high to switch to & I'd lose momentum. Instead, I removed the 15t and found the transition much more tolerable. That said, Wolftooth is developing a 16t cog for a better transition. I may get one when it is available.
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  12. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gigantic View Post
    yep. on a bare freewheel hub, install the 42t cog, remove either the 15 or 17t cog & spacer, install cassette & lock ring, ride. It was recommended to remove the 17t cog, but I found that I would spin out on the 19t and the 15t was too high to switch to & I'd lose momentum. Instead, I removed the 15t and found the transition much more tolerable. That said, Wolftooth is developing a 16t cog for a better transition. I may get one when it is available.
    Thanks. I'm kind of confused by the the 16t. You would add the 42 and 16 and remove what exactly? 15 and 17?

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by 802spokestoke View Post
    Thanks. I'm kind of confused by the the 16t. You would add the 42 and 16 and remove what exactly? 15 and 17?
    You can get a 16 from a road bike cassette too

    Add the 42, remove the 17, and replace the 15 with a 16

    11-13-16-19 vs 11-13-15-19. Better spacing.

  14. #89
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    OneUp is now sending a "free" 16t along with their 40 or 42t. I'm assuming they are now trying really hard to deal with all of the competition and some lower-priced options.

  15. #90
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    one up 16t is hit or miss, depending on your setup. i found best for a zee rd is to clock the cog in between sr & sh, but ditched it for an xt 16t.

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