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  1. #1
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    $200 gift card, need to put my 33lb AM bike on a diet. What to buy?

    After adding a 36 TALAS, Marz rocco shock and reverb, the ups arent as good as the downs. I was thinking maybe a carbon handle bars? Renthal stem? Go tubeless? Eventually want to shave about 2-3 lbs.
    '10 Marin Attack Trail with all XT build.

  2. #2
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    I'd go tubeless, much better performance/dollar than lighter bars/stems IMO. Just make sure your rims and tyres will work properly when set up this way...

  3. #3
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    Second the tubeless. Maybe get some lighter tires to go with it since sealant isn't going to chew up 200 bucks. Rotational weight savings > static weight savings.

  4. #4
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    $200 gift card, need to put my 33lb AM bike on a diet. What to buy?

    I knocked my Firebird down to 31.5 from almost 34 lbs. Tires and a tubeless set up were a big factor. Some small things I changed were the saddle/seat post, I went with SDG I-Beam, Carbon Haven bars and ESI grips. There was also a fork change to help it along. I noticed the tire change the most. The whole reaction of the bike changed for the better. Good luck.

  5. #5
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    No point in the bars unles you have something really awkward / heavy right now. But most OEM bars are really not that bad.

    For the $200 you have, I would go with the tubless / new tires.

  6. #6
    usually cranky
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    what tires? probably the best starting place. also if your rims are really heavy you could replace them.

  7. #7
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    It seems some dispute the weight savings for tubeless conversion, needing a thicker sidewall tire, but I will roll with my current WTB/Kenda tires and a tubeless "ghetto" conversion to save money and see how it goes. I may invest in some lighter tires but I dont want to go smaller than 2.3. Yes new hoops would be good but now we are talking $1000 range. I did buy some XTR trail pedals to shave a few g's but I hate them.

  8. #8
    usually cranky
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    $1000? for carbon. but you could get some light wide and tubeless ready rims for under $200.

  9. #9
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    Go tubeless on almost anything but a Kenda or Nevegal especially. I loved those on the downs but they pedal slow(look up German tire power to keep moving thread). Bontrager 2.35 XR4's are lighter and roll way better and are fat. Do that w tubeless stans will feel like you lost 5lbs of rolling weight on the climbs and most flats and corner even better.

  10. #10
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    You probably added about 3 pounds, maybe a bit more, with those additions you listed. It's hard to have a sub 30lb bike with burley AM components.

    Specialized control tires, Continental TLR and some others might help you drop weight. But, just converting to tubeless setup won't help much. Sorry to be the pessimist of the bunch.

  11. #11
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    I am a firm believer that going tubeless doesn't save or add much weight, but what you gain in performance and reliability is worth it. please do us a favor and use stans tape/sealant/valves.

    It would help if we knew what your current setup is (full parts list)

  12. #12
    Axe
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    Tires, tubeless and wide carbon bars.

  13. #13
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    I second tires. what tires are you running, ive become a tire whore lately. there are a few standout treads, rear tread design let alone weight can make differences in rolling resistance and front tire tread make the biggest differences in overall handling. all that other stuff doesn't change performance like and upgrade in tires.

  14. #14
    Axe
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    Quote Originally Posted by maynsx View Post
    It seems some dispute the weight savings for tubeless conversion, needing a thicker sidewall tire
    You need a thicker sidewall tire (protection/snakeskin..whatever each company calls it) for his bike anyway. Something like pacestar/trails star Hans Dampf combo with some Cafelatex goop (need less of it than Stan's and lasts longer in my experience) would do nicely.

  15. #15
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    Yes, removing a RS Revelation WC fork, RS Monarch 4.2 shock and adding the RS Reverb were all big weight penalties at nearly a pound each, but all totally worth it and I would never go back. Not much I can do about my chunky 8.5ish pound frame.
    B-Kul, you are right, I as thinking whole wheelset rather than just the rims. Might be more trouble/time than I have at the moment.
    My Bars are '11 Easton Havoc DH 760 mm, and stem is Truvativ Hozfeller 50mm. I would be lucky to shave 100grams there.
    Tires are 2.5 WTB Weirwolf front (discontinued- great in socal and north Carolina, meh in Hawaii- heavy) and Kenda Nevegal 2.3 rear (been solid all around). I will likely swap the front tire for a Continental Trail King 2.4. I will look into rims (I can get deals on sun ringle stuff- promotive). I don't see why the ghetto tubless would be hurting anyone's feelings so I am going to try that out. Thanks for all the advice!

  16. #16
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fuel53 View Post
    Yes, removing a RS Revelation WC fork, RS Monarch 4.2 shock and adding the RS Reverb were all big weight penalties at nearly a pound each, but all totally worth it and I would never go back. Not much I can do about my chunky 8.5ish pound frame.
    B-Kul, you are right, I as thinking whole wheelset rather than just the rims. Might be more trouble/time than I have at the moment.
    My Bars are '11 Easton Havoc DH 760 mm, and stem is Truvativ Hozfeller 50mm. I would be lucky to shave 100grams there.
    Tires are 2.5 WTB Weirwolf front (discontinued- great in socal and north Carolina, meh in Hawaii- heavy) and Kenda Nevegal 2.3 rear (been solid all around). I will likely swap the front tire for a Continental Trail King 2.4. I will look into rims (I can get deals on sun ringle stuff- promotive). I don't see why the ghetto tubless would be hurting anyone's feelings so I am going to try that out. Thanks for all the advice!
    If you want help on the ups, get rid of that Nevegal on the rear and go with something faster rolling. That is going to help you more than any weight you are going to drop, even for several times your upgrade budget.

    Might as well try ghetto tubeless, it's cheap.

    Dropping 2-3 pounds off that bike with the frame fork and shock off limits is going to be really expensive.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  18. #18
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    I wasn't saying not to go tubeless, just that you're not really saving weight there. I run tubeless with Stan's set up. I like it but swapping out tires on a frequent basis is a PITA.

    You're right about the bars and stem, it would cost you around $250 to shave about 150g. Prob not worth it. Also swapping rims is quite expensive I you have to pay for the rebuild labor, add more for new spokes if they are needed. Best off saving the money and buying a whole new wheel set unless you have high quality hubs. The. It's a different story.

    If you have days that are more XC and climbing you could always go with a lighter tire setup for those times and swap back to the big tires for more DH days. It'll be a bit messy and more time consuming once you go tubeless though. And as others have said, the Nevegal is a boat anchor on the climbs. Try something like a Nobby Nic or even the Xking protection version.

  19. #19
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    Go tubeless. I'm running Maxxis Exo 2.5 minion and a 2.35 Exo ardent- not tubeless tires, per say, but they work wonderfully. So not sure how people are saying there isn't a weight savings.
    Personally I'd focus on everything that rotates to save weight first. Pedals, cranks are good items to upgrade also. I shaved nearly a 1/2lb off just switching from Shimano Dx pedals to xt trail pedals.

  20. #20
    usually cranky
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    if memory serves a 2.5 ww is a pig of a tire. you can get good knobby rubber for much less weight. and that nev is the slowest thing ever. nevermind the weight, get something quicker back there and your bike will feel a lot lighter.

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