Results 1 to 41 of 41
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928

    Zeppelin Elite Crank Specs?

    I was hunting for deals and I stumbled upon this
    BlueSkyCycling.com - Race Face Ride XC X Type Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket

    Got me thinking, What specs do I need to go crankset shopping?

    How about the specs on my rear shock??

    Front Fork?

    Thanks guys

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    I have no idea about crankset.

    Rear shock, I think you only need to know the length and displacement (how much it moves) of the shock. this is usually expressed as length x displacement (ex. 6.5" x 1.5"). length you can measure yourself, I would hope that the displacement is written somewhere on the shock.

    for front forks, you need to know the steerer diameter. For zeppelin elites it is 1 1/8" i am very certain. Also, you can't get a fork with travel that is too different from what is already on there, otherwise it will change the geometry.

    I ordered a zeppeling elite last week and it's getting here tomorrow, as you can tell i've already started thinking about upgrading the suspension bits. How do you like yours, and is there anything I need to watch out for during assembly?

    also, how are the wheels on yours? i haven't heard good things about the alexrims dp17...

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by alexzhu1 View Post
    I have no idea about crankset.

    Rear shock, I think you only need to know the length and displacement (how much it moves) of the shock. this is usually expressed as length x displacement (ex. 6.5" x 1.5"). length you can measure yourself, I would hope that the displacement is written somewhere on the shock.

    for front forks, you need to know the steerer diameter. For zeppelin elites it is 1 1/8" i am very certain. Also, you can't get a fork with travel that is too different from what is already on there, otherwise it will change the geometry.

    I ordered a zeppeling elite last week and it's getting here tomorrow, as you can tell i've already started thinking about upgrading the suspension bits. How do you like yours, and is there anything I need to watch out for during assembly?

    also, how are the wheels on yours? i haven't heard good things about the alexrims dp17...
    I love mine. I'm coming from a HT trek.

    I'm at a point where I don't possess the ability to outride my bike. So far all I wanna do is shorten my stem, and that is bc of my size. Not bike related.

    Wheels are great. This winter I'm gonna upgrade to a Reba or tower fork and look into lighter wheels.

    Only issue so far is my front derailleur doesn't like to shift much. I think it needs alignment so no bigger.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    No way, the bike I have right now is a Trek 4300.

    I used to feel like I could outride it but after doing some upgrades (wheels+tires, Rockshox fork) I'd say we're an even match. It's a total blast on fast XC trails but I want to ride on some rougher terrain which is why I decided to get a full suspension bike. I'm not sure if I'll keep it or not, having 3 bikes would (in my opinion) be kind of excessive. In addition to the Trek 4300 I have a Trek 7.3FX for city riding.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,831
    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    I was hunting for deals and I stumbled upon this
    BlueSkyCycling.com - Race Face Ride XC X Type Crankset w/ Bottom Bracket

    Got me thinking, What specs do I need to go crankset shopping?

    How about the specs on my rear shock??

    Front Fork?

    Thanks guys
    The BB shell is a BSA threaded shell, with a square-tapered 68x122 FSA BB installed stock.

    Those cranks look like they should fit. They probably won't be much ligher than what comes on the Elite already, but they are a little nicer and do have an outboard BB so they'll probably be stiffer.

    The rear shock has an eye-to-eye measurement of 190mm and takes 8x23mm bushings front and rear.

    The Zeppelin frames are built with a 70degree HT angle based on a fork with an ATC of 490mm. So, with the stock fork dialed to about 120mm of travel it is sitting at the 70 degree HT angle. With the fork turned to the 85mm setting it is steeper and at the full 130 it is a little slacker than 70 degrees.

    If you want to keep the stock 70degree HT angle look for a fork with around 490mm ATC. In general, that translates to most companies forks that are around 120mm in travel, give or take a few milimeters.

    The fork steer tube is a 1 1/8" non-tapered.

    Hope that helps!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    Question: would this rear shock fit properly on a Zeppelin Elite?

    Fox Shox Float RPL 7 5"X2 0" Three Settings Pro Pedal Lock Out Open | eBay

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,831
    I generally don't like to speculate or recommend whether or not eBay or used parts will fit one of our bikes, for fear that someone could get upset if something goes wrong.

    That being said, the eye-to-eye is correct on that shock. With the proper bushings installed it *probably* will fit and work fine.
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I generally don't like to speculate or recommend whether or not eBay or used parts will fit one of our bikes, for fear that someone could get upset if something goes wrong.
    Don't worry, if it doesn't fit I'd just put it right back onto ebay. The good thing about buying used is that you can normally flip it back for the same price (or higher) than you got it for

    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    That being said, the eye-to-eye is correct on that shock. With the proper bushings installed it *probably* will fit and work fine.
    Are there different bushing sizes? I was under the impression that all shocks/frames used the same size bushings, is that correct? Also, will I be able to recycle bushings from the shock that's currently installed on it?


    UPS estimated a delivery time of 11:15-3:15pm today for my zeppelin, and it's currently 2:01pm...can't wait 'till i get home...constantly refreshing the tracking info page

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    The BB shell is a BSA threaded shell, with a square-tapered 68x122 FSA BB installed stock.

    Those cranks look like they should fit. They probably won't be much ligher than what comes on the Elite already, but they are a little nicer and do have an outboard BB so they'll probably be stiffer.

    The rear shock has an eye-to-eye measurement of 190mm and takes 8x23mm bushings front and rear.

    The Zeppelin frames are built with a 70degree HT angle based on a fork with an ATC of 490mm. So, with the stock fork dialed to about 120mm of travel it is sitting at the 70 degree HT angle. With the fork turned to the 85mm setting it is steeper and at the full 130 it is a little slacker than 70 degrees.

    If you want to keep the stock 70degree HT angle look for a fork with around 490mm ATC. In general, that translates to most companies forks that are around 120mm in travel, give or take a few milimeters.

    The fork steer tube is a 1 1/8" non-tapered.

    Hope that helps!

    Jeremy
    Stiffer is really what I'm looking for. When I really push hard I can feel the crank flexing and hear it grinding. And the price is right.

    Thank you very much for the info. I'm so happy I bought from you guys. My LBS is kinda pissy that I didn't buy a trek marlin. And come to find out he doesn't like anyone that don't rock a trek. So F him.

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,831
    Quote Originally Posted by alexzhu1 View Post



    Are there different bushing sizes? I was under the impression that all shocks/frames used the same size bushings, is that correct? Also, will I be able to recycle bushings from the shock that's currently installed on it?
    Hey Alex,

    Frames and shocks use different bushing sizes. For example, I know for certain Marzocchi shocks have a different eye ID than RockShox so that you can't swap the same bushings between the two makes. I'm not certain on the Fox ID. The photo of the shock on the eBay listing shows a shock with no bushings in the eyes. It needs bushings to mount it on a frame and the ones in the Bar 2.1 may not fit the ID.

    Bushings are also a specific width based on frames and the width of the mounting tabs. The Zeppelin takes 23mm front and rear, with an 8mm opening. That's a common size but a lot of manufacturers use different widths and sometimes different bolt openings (like 10mm for example).

    I hope that makes sense!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,831
    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    Stiffer is really what I'm looking for. When I really push hard I can feel the crank flexing and hear it grinding. And the price is right.

    Thank you very much for the info. I'm so happy I bought from you guys. My LBS is kinda pissy that I didn't buy a trek marlin. And come to find out he doesn't like anyone that don't rock a trek. So F him.
    No problem! That's what we're here for.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Hey Alex,

    Frames and shocks use different bushing sizes. For example, I know for certain Marzocchi shocks have a different eye ID than RockShox so that you can't swap the same bushings between the two makes. I'm not certain on the Fox ID. The photo of the shock on the eBay listing shows a shock with no bushings in the eyes. It needs bushings to mount it on a frame and the ones in the Bar 2.1 may not fit the ID.

    Bushings are also a specific width based on frames and the width of the mounting tabs. The Zeppelin takes 23mm front and rear, with an 8mm opening. That's a common size but a lot of manufacturers use different widths and sometimes different bolt openings (like 10mm for example).

    I hope that makes sense!

    Jeremy
    Thanks for the information! I guess I'll have to get my hands on the actual hardware once the bike arrives and measure it myself. One good thing is that I have access to 3 Fox DHX RC4 shocks so I could measure the ID on those--they're used on a solar-powered vehicle I'm involved in building as part of a school project.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Also. What size axle is on the zeppelin elite?? 15mm QR?? How can I tell?

    Thanks!!

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,831
    The Zepp has standard 9mm QR's. You don't find 15mm thru axles or "Maxles" on bikes at this price level.

    Thanks!
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Big daddy, can you go into a little more detail between all the axle choices?

    And you rock. My lbs told me I had a 15mm QR, which bummed me out cuz I found a Fox F100 RLC 32 float for $200

    How exactly can you tell??

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    Did you LBS seriously say you had a 15mm QR? That's unbelievable...

    The 9mm QRs allow you to take the wheel off without removing the axle. 99% of bikes have this. The wheel can come off the bike with the axle still on it because of the slot on the fork:
    http://brimages.bikeboardmedia.netdn...g-weight04.jpg

    The 15mm QRs and 20mm QRs require you to remove the axle separately before you remove the wheel; they cannot come off as one piece, also they are much thicker:
    http://p.vitalmtb.com/photos/users/1...jpg?1335021998

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Yeah. I'm pretty disappointed in them. Thinking I'll stop supporting them. I'll install my own damn fork

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    68
    You will probably need them to install your fork. I tried to install my own fork on the Trek I had previously, you need special tools to do several steps of the installation and I tried with normal tools but couldn't get it done...more specifically, I got everything done up to installing the star nut, but I couldn't get that to go in.

  19. #19
    Airborne Alf
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by alexzhu1 View Post
    You will probably need them to install your fork. I tried to install my own fork on the Trek I had previously, you need special tools to do several steps of the installation and I tried with normal tools but couldn't get it done...more specifically, I got everything done up to installing the star nut, but I couldn't get that to go in.
    Sette ST-113A Threadless Star Nut Setter at Price Point

    If you are having trouble with the star nut. You can always purchase something like this. I always do my own work.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    The rear shock has an eye-to-eye measurement of 190mm and takes 8x23mm bushings front and rear.
    I am looking at possibly upgrading my Zeppelin rear shock to a new Fox Float CTD. Should the size be 7.5x2"? When I look on the list of bushings I see 8x22.2mm and 8x24.0mm but no 8x23mm. Should I pick the 8x24mm bushings or the 8x22.2mm?
    Last edited by blundar; 01-31-2013 at 02:00 PM.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation: BigDaddyFlyer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,831
    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    I am looking at possibly upgrading my Zeppelin rear shock to a new Fox Float CTD. Should the size be 7.5x2"? When I look on the list of bushings I see 8x22.2mm and 8x24.0mm but no 8x23mm. Should I pick the 8x24mm bushings or the 8x22.2mm?
    That's the correct shock length.

    For bushings, 23mm is very common.

    If you can't find the 23mm, then get the 22.2 and use a .4mm washer on either side of the bushing to shim it. The 24.0 won't fit.

    Hope that helps,

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  22. #22
    Airborne Alf
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    I am looking at possibly upgrading my Zeppelin rear shock to a new Fox Float CTD. Should the size be 7.5x2"? When I look on the list of bushings I see 8x22.2mm and 8x24.0mm but no 8x23mm. Should I pick the 8x24mm bushings or the 8x22.2mm?
    The eye to eye is 190mm and takes 8x23mm bushings front and rear. I hope that helps.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    Outstanding! Big thanks BigDaddyFlyer...

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    Just a quick update... I just purchased a new RockShox Monarch RT3 190x51 for my Zeppelin Elite. Thanks a ton for all the info and assistance BigDaddyFlyer!!

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    Do I need any special tools to swap bushes from my RockShock Bar 2.1 to my new Monarch RT3?

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    Do I need any special tools to swap bushes from my RockShock Bar 2.1 to my new Monarch RT3?
    Nope. Just remove the DU bushings, pull the shock. Replace shock with the new bushings you ordered for the monarch.

    One thing to keep in mind. Some of the DU bushings look like 1 bolt on each side and a sleeve in the middle. This may not be the case. Some have one bolt and then a sleeve with a rod cast into it.

    Just an FYI.

    Tools I used. Needle nose pliers, flat bottom punch, rubber mallet. Hex keys.

    Good luck

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    You used the flat bottom punch to get the bushings off? I don't have one of those. I might just have to get one. Any particular size recommended?

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928

    Zeppelin Elite Crank Specs?

    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    You used the flat bottom punch to get the bushings off? I don't have one of those. I might just have to get one. Any particular size recommended?
    I used a punch to push the du bushing out. So I could remove the shock.

    You could use a screwdriver to push it out. Just use care to not damage the threads.

    Your bushings may come right out. I don't know why my bushings were so tough to remove.

    I don't even know what size punch. I have a set of them.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    I was thinking of using a deep socket that is just a bit smaller, and then tap that with a rubber mallet.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928

    Zeppelin Elite Crank Specs?

    That works too

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    I sure hope that it will easily come out and re-install in the new shock.

    Or maybe it will put up such a fight and not want to come out at all. Worst case is that I'll then have to destroy the bush to get it out, and buy a new one, and need to have it installed at LBS, and have pay for that too on top of it all.

    I am crossing my fingers wishing that it will all go smoothly...

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928

    Zeppelin Elite Crank Specs?

    I'm sure I could have pressed it out without a hammer. Once you do it you will kinda chuckle at how easy it is. Make sure you have the 1/2 inch bushings for the new shock and they use an 8mm bolt and you will be fine

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928

    Zeppelin Elite Crank Specs?

    And make sure you let all the air out of the shock first. Very important.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    Quote Originally Posted by jkidd_39 View Post
    I'm sure I could have pressed it out without a hammer. Once you do it you will kinda chuckle at how easy it is. Make sure you have the 1/2 inch bushings for the new shock and they use an 8mm bolt and you will be fine
    It probably will be very easy. Both the new and the old shocks are RockShox. So I am hoping that I can just take out the bushings off the old one, and re-install everything with the exact same components on my new Monarch.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    It probably will be very easy. Both the new and the old shocks are RockShox. So I am hoping that I can just take out the bushings off the old one, and re-install everything with the exact same components on my new Monarch.
    The Bar has different bushings! they have a smaller OD. They will not work. I'm refering to these..


    You will need 12.75mm or commonly 1/2" OD bushings. The Bar 2.1 has 12mm OD bushings.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    OMG!

    Why can't they just keep things simple? They just had to make it 0.75mm bigger.

    So let me see if I have this right...

    Existing bushing on Bar 2.1:
    8mm inner thread size
    23mm length
    12mm outside diameter

    I need to buy this bushing for my Monarch RT3:
    8x23mm with a 12.75mm outside diameter?

    What brand bushing do you recommend?

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    OMG!

    Why can't they just keep things simple? They just had to make it 0.75mm bigger.

    So let me see if I have this right...

    Existing bushing on Bar 2.1:
    8mm inner thread size
    23mm length
    12mm outside diameter

    I need to buy this bushing for my Monarch RT3:
    8x23mm with a 12.75mm outside diameter?

    What brand bushing do you recommend?
    Amazon.com: RockShox Rear Shock Mounting Hardware-3-Piece Set: Sports & Outdoors

    You need two of them.. Here is a pic I took to try to explain via internet my issue. I couldnt find a bushing at the time in 23mm.. so I used a file.. total hatchet job! I'm gonna order the right ones asap.. I totally destroyed my Bar 2.1 and RS was nice enough to send me a brand new Monarch RL. I think since the Bar 2.1 is about as low as you can go on RS's product line they used old school hardware.. and I get the feeling that Airborne used old school sizing to cut down on production costs on the zeppelin. Not saying it's a bad bike. I very much like mine, but I find alot of stuff on the bike that are corner cut-ish.. Can't go X9 on an $800 bike and not skimp somewhere..

    Makes me sometimes wish the hobgoblin was out when I was shopping. I would be rocking one of those if it was an option.

    Here is a terrible drawing to show what you need..




    One thing that is cool about the zeppelin is that it's 650b compatible w/ a fork swap. I am prob going to be going to a Canfield brothers Yelli Screamy and I'll keep my zep and eventually convert it. Will make a pretty fun trail bike.

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    I really appreciate all the help!!! Sorry if I am being a bit redundant with the questions. I just want to make sure that I don't end up buying the wrong bushings.

    So I need 2 of these? (This is how the pull-down menu lists it):
    1/2x1/2-inch 30.0x8-mm

    I am loving my Zeppelin Elite. Rock solid reliable so far. This new rear shock is an effort to alleviate some of the pedal bob that I am getting on long XC runs (especially on climbs off the seat). I will probably end up upgrading my front fork too when I have some additional funds available. I already upgraded to WTB Bronsons 2.3 tires. These give me a larger diameter also, so it is like 650B on the cheap. Awesome tires for the trails here in Iowa.

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jkidd_39's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    928
    Quote Originally Posted by blundar View Post
    I really appreciate all the help!!! Sorry if I am being a bit redundant with the questions. I just want to make sure that I don't end up buying the wrong bushings.

    So I need 2 of these? (This is how the pull-down menu lists it):
    1/2x1/2-inch 30.0x8-mm

    I am loving my Zeppelin Elite. Rock solid reliable so far. This new rear shock is an effort to alleviate some of the pedal bob that I am getting on long XC runs (especially on climbs off the seat). I will probably end up upgrading my front fork too when I have some additional funds available.
    Nope... 1/2 X 1/2 23.0 X 8mm

    two of them. The Ario came with 30mm bushings.. I just pressed them out and was showing all the hardware...

    And ask as many questions as you want... Here to help! For $13 a set I certainly want you to get them right!

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    I pulled the trigger! My new bushings are on order. Yay!

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    265
    I finally had a chance last night at installing my new rear shock! I first let the air out of the old shock (just like you told me) and compressed the suspension all the way down to make sure it was completely empty.

    After removing the screws on the end of the bushes, I looked for a good way to get the inner threaded pin out without damaging the threads or the bike frame mounting brackets. I tried several things but it was stubbornly on and not letting go. I ended up putting 1 screw back onto the inner threaded pin. I only screwed it on around 3 turns, and I popped it loose with the rubber mallet by hitting the screw on the head. Once it was loose, I took off the screw and used a Phillips screwdriver to drive it through by popping it lightly with the rubber mallet. The same procedure worked perfectly for both of the inner threaded pins.

    Then it was time to get the new bushes that came on the new shock off. The good thing about getting those off was that I was not too concerned about damaging them, as long as the new shock was not damaged or dinged up. Break out the rubber mallet again! I put the new shock on an old rubber bumper and hit the bush to try to get it off. Nope! No-go! I kept thinking “Don’t hurt the new shock, …don’t hurt the new shock, …damn this darn bush is really stubborn, …it is really on and hanging on for dear life”. I ended up using my 7” adjustable pliers with a piece of old inner tube (to not scratch the new shock). This broke it loose, and it then came off the rest of the way by tapping with the rubber mallet and a screwdriver.

    I thoroughly inspected everything to make sure nothing was dinged or needed to be replaced. It all looked good. The new bushes went onto the new shock effortlessly. I put on a bit of grease on the inner threaded pin, and everything went on super easy. I tightened everything on, fully cycled the suspension to make sure nothing was bound up, and everything looked good.

    I then put on my shock pump and pressured up the shock to get the right amount of sag. I love that the Monarch RT3 has the laser etched sag markings on it. This makes it so simple to do without guess work, and then measuring, and re-measuring again and again.

    Yay, I am done! Mission accomplished! Now I can’t wait for this lousy winter weather to go away so that I can try out my new rear shock.
    Last edited by blundar; 02-28-2013 at 11:33 AM. Reason: Installation Update...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •