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  1. #1
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    Tubeless conversion for stock wheelset on Guardian

    Just thought i would chime in and let everyone know about converting the stock Weinman Discbull rims with the Kenda small block 8 tires. It was an absolute success!. In fact it was the easiest conversion i have ever done (well at least for me) Even easier than my Goblin with WTB I19 rims. I used one wrap of Gorilla tape to seal the spoke bed then used a carded pair of Stans presta valve stems, inflated, filled with sealant, then did the jiggle and presto. In fact they sealed so quick and held air so good i was amazed. I was a little worried at first because there was a good sized air leak at the seam in the rim while setting the bead and thought it might be an issue. After adding sealant it closed up immediately. Cant wait to try it out, good luck

    BTW- a shop compressor with high pressure with a rubber tipped nozzel (dust nozzel)and the core of the valve stem removed will be needed to set the bead.

  2. #2
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    Great news. I've got a Seeker and will be trying this this weekend or next week. Just need to grab the tape and a container of sealant.
    Eric

  3. #3
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    Right behind you sky, I just cut out two presta valves out of some old tubes to make the conversion (although I am worried they will not seal due to mold lines) myself. Let us know how it goes!

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    Hey Soul i would recommend you buy a pair of stems. I have tried recycled stems from old tubesand had a tough time. Usually the valve stem area is the toughest to seal. The Stans stems make for a quicker cleaner installation plus they are cheap. Good luck

  5. #5
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    Thanks Greenkeep! I will make that happen. Did you have to do anything to the channel of the rim on the WTB's or did you just use the tape?

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    I only sealed the spoke bed channel. I took the bike fir a ten mile ride today and it seemed to hold up well. There was some leakage around the sidewalls of the rear tire, hopefully the ride will seal up any gaps. I ran the front at 22psi and the rear at 24psi(btw i weigh 200lbs and carrying alot of gear) I might raise the rear tire pressure a few pounds if need be.

    @Soul- I set up the WTB i19 rims just like the ones on the Guardian, just Gorilla tape, stems and sealant.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Greenkeep!

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    Well, the hardware didn't have any of the 1" Gorilla tape, so looks like I'll have to order it online. No big deal, just sets me back a few days. I was going to try the cut out stem as well but since my LBS is having a 50% off "Small Business Saturday" sale and I will be there dropping off a hub, I might just spring for the valves and have my mechanic wrap the rims with some of the stans tape.
    Eric

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    I'm thinking of this too, so please let us know how it goes. Also, always a great idea to support local business.

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    I bought the regular sized roll and just score the tape to the correct size. Just cut the tape to the width of the bead shelf not going over the sides but making sure wide enough to cover spoke holes evenly. I usually start about 6-8 inches before the valve hole and overlap at the end by the same length. I would really advise against the cut stems from a tube. I never had any luck with that.

    I bumped the tires up to 26 psi and will ride them tomorrow morning and see how they hold. I think this will not be an issue with lighter riders since there was not even a peep from the front wheel. The Disc bull rims do not have a bead lock channel as good as I19 rims. So i will have to play with it a bit. Even though after yesterdays ride showed a lot of sidewall leakage i only lost 1lb of air. Time will tell and adding a little more Stan's may be necessary because i think alot is going to get used to seal up the bead.

  11. #11
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    Great advice and information Greenkeep!

    I went to the LBS today and picked up a set of Stans valves, a quart of Stans, a headset protector (after yesterdays mud-fest I realized I needed one), and another green RaceFace 30T N/W. Total bill was $65.48! SCORE!

    I sold the un-used Conti's, and purchased an Ignitor for the front, and an Ardent for the back. Only thing I am needing is an air compressor and some time to get it all together.

  12. #12
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    I have Conti X-Kings on my Goblin set up tubeless and i love them. I believe with the Maxxis tires you should run the ignitor in the rear and the Ardent up front. This seems to be what most people i have seen do. Ardent is better suited up front. On my Trek i had those on there set up tubeless and they were awesome. Only thing is the were a little picky being on the stock Bontrager rims that came with the bike.

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    I agree with Greenkeep... The ardent is a great all around tire but I'd most certainly run it up front and the less aggressive ignitor in the rear... Rather have more grip up front! Love it as a front tire on my buddies bike and the front tire I run is an ardent knockoff... Also love it.
    Eric

  14. #14
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    So, just to be explicit: Would this tubeless method work with the stock rims and tires on a new Seeker? Discbulls and Geax AKA 2.2 ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by skyphix View Post
    I agree with Greenkeep... The ardent is a great all around tire but I'd most certainly run it up front and the less aggressive ignitor in the rear... Rather have more grip up front! Love it as a front tire on my buddies bike and the front tire I run is an ardent knockoff... Also love it.
    Sounds like I need to reverse my thinking! I will go with the Ardent up front and the Ignitor in the back. The only thing I am short on is the compressor itself to do the job.

  16. #16
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    Re: Tubeless conversion for stock wheelset on Guardian

    Quote Originally Posted by BodyLinksystems View Post
    So, just to be explicit: Would this tubeless method work with the stock rims and tires on a new Seeker? Discbulls and Geax AKA 2.2 ?
    Yes, it should. I am still running the AKA as my rear but haven't done the conversion yet. Searching, it seems like others have had great success with it despite the rim not being a welded rim as long as you tape the entire channel and not just the spokes.
    Eric

  17. #17
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    thanks skyphix. Will be trying this down the line.

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    Its' hard to say what tire/rim combo will work together as they are all different. You just have to give it a shot and see. I will say yes to the Geax and discbull rims even though i'm not positive. Just take your time and be patient with the setup, pay close attention to the taping of the spoke bed. I run my fingers firmly though the rim channel pressing on the tape then running a clean rag to "slide over the tape" creating a good seal. Cut just a small slit in the tape for the valve hole and insert the stem. Tighten the lock nut while pressing the stem firmly from the inside and then turning it a few more times with an adjustable wrench.

    Rode 22 miles today on the Guardian set up tubeless with the rear tire set at 26psi and all was perfect. No more sidewall leaks. I think it only happened on the first ride because i ran too low of a pressure. Some rim/tire combos mushroom out differently due to sidewall thickness. I know when i was running the Geax AKA on my Goblin i could go low because the sidewalls were stout. Not the case on the small block 8's and with my size and weight.

  19. #19
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    Keep the reports up Greenkeep! How does the bike feel after the conversion to before you went tubeless on the bike? Is one, to one and a half pounds of rotational weight lost noticeable in the overall ride quality?

    The sidewalls on the Geax's are very strong, and should make a great tire for this as the bead is so tight to match. By far, this tire on the WTB's is the toughest tire I have had to mount to any rim, which means it should hold up very well to burping. Me, I am going to see how the Maxxis tires mount before I can make any conclusion there.

  20. #20
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    The Geax and Kenda's that are stock on the bikes are wire bead versions as most are on stock bikes. I have had equal success with folding bead tires as well.

    The bike feels great, this is the first time i have been on gears in a while since converting my Goblin to SS. I think if you don't have the funds to upgrade a wheelset then converting any bike tubeless is a huge improvement in performance and comfort. I highly recommend it plus i never had a flat since and feel confident enough to leave the spare tube home. I have not had any problems with burping the tire. Actually i probably never will where i live(Eastern Long Island) our trails tend to be soft and not to technical. There are not that many rocks or other hazards that may burp a tire here. Either that or i don't ride hard enough lol
    Last edited by Greenkeep; 12-01-2013 at 05:26 PM.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenkeep View Post
    The Geax and Kenda's that are stock on the bikes are wire bead versions as most stock bikes come are. I have had equal success with folding bead tires as well.

    The bike feels great, this is the first time i have been on gears in a while since converting my Goblin to SS. I think if you don't have the funds to upgrade a wheelset then converting any bike tubeless is a huge improvement in performance and comfort. I highly recommend it plus i never had a flat since and feel confident enough to leave the spare tube home. I have not had any problems with burping the tire. Actually i probably never will where i live(Eastern Long Island) our trails tend to be soft and not to technical. There are not the many rocks or other hazards that may burp a tire here. Either that or i don't ride hard enough lol
    As long as you are riding, everything else doesn't matter!

    My main reason for this direction is cost - at this point I cannot justify a new wheelset - at least to the Mrs. I can't - so this is the most logical direction to go.

  22. #22
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    Do folks got tubeless to scratch mili-ounces of weight from their bikes , or primarily to minimize flats. I mean come on, two 29er tubes with .88 lbs. I'm doing a 4-day mountain bike trip in Moab next May and don't know if I should switch to tubeless, or just carry a couple extra tubes with patch kits.

  23. #23
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    The ability to run lower pressures without risk of flatting, reducing rotating mass, eliminating some rubber which tends to improve the ride quality, all are reasons to go tubeless. I wasn't sold until I rode a buddies bike tubeless. He hadn't done any maintenance on it in a while and it needed fresh sealant, so we threw a tube in it. Not even 2 rides and he was back tubeless - it felt that much better without tubes.

    People who run tubeless typically will still carry a spare tube.
    Eric

  24. #24
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    We have a lot of thorney trails and that's where tubeless really shines. I used to get flats all the time running tubes. You can add slime sealant for protection but that adds considerable weight. Setup can be a pain going tubeless and they do require routine maintenance but the pros definitely outweigh the cons. Once you go tubeless you wont go want to go back.

    BTW- You should check your pressure on a tubeless system before each ride until you get a feel for your particular setup and can estimate air loss if there is any.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crank2Go View Post
    Do folks got tubeless to scratch mili-ounces of weight from their bikes , or primarily to minimize flats. I mean come on, two 29er tubes with .88 lbs. I'm doing a 4-day mountain bike trip in Moab next May and don't know if I should switch to tubeless, or just carry a couple extra tubes with patch kits.
    120g worth of sealant, 14g for the stems, another 20g for the tape. My tubes alone with slime weigh in at 642 grams for the pair. This conversion will save well over a full pound of rotational weight from the wheels - miliounces? Not even close...

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