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  1. #1
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    Not sure if this has been attempted...

    I am looking to convert to tubeless on the Goblin - has anyone tried to convert the WTB i9's yet? I like to run very low pressures for the terrain here and think it is time to stop worrying about pinch flats.

    Any help would be appreciated.
    Money doesn't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike, and that is pretty close.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    I am looking to convert to tubeless on the Goblin - has anyone tried to convert the WTB i9's yet? I like to run very low pressures for the terrain here and think it is time to stop worrying about pinch flats.

    Any help would be appreciated.
    Have not tried with the WTB wheels on the Goblin, but here are some suggestions.

    1. Get Stan's kit with tape OR you can use Gorilla tape or duct tape to seal up the wheels.

    2. For the very initial seating of the tire bead - do not use sealant. Add that later.

    3. For the very initial seating of the tire bead - try removing the valve stem core to allow more air through. Many a floor pump will work, if you remove the valve stem core.

    4. If the tire doesn't quite want to seat on the wheel, try sponging some warm/soapy water on the sidewalls to make the bead a little slicker.

    5. Once you get the tire to hook up and hold air for a while - add the sealant. You can add it through the valve stem, before replacing the valve stem core.

    My current wheel/tire combination seated up VERY well, but would not hold air for very long until I added the sealant. After adding the sealant, I had no issues.

    One last thing. I have found that my tires, which are not official tubeless ready, deflate a little quicker than normal. No big deal, I just check the pressure every time I ride.

  3. #3
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    I used the stans XC kit on my hobgoblin with speed disc i19s. Went perfectly with my conti race kings.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 4

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys - I went to slime my tubes and found out I couldn't remove the cores to do so. I figured if I were going to take the tires off to get different tubes, I may as well try out tubeless instead. My trail pressures are 30 front and 40 back, but would like to try dropping another five out for some better grip, especially in the sandy and off-cambered corners.
    Money doesn't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike, and that is pretty close.

  5. #5
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    set up my WTB laserdisc's with Stans

    I bought the Stans All Mountain kit. Stans website recommended the all mountain kit and had some specific instructions about building up the center channel. Works great, I run them at about 27psi with no problems.

  6. #6
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    Nice! Keep us (me... ) informed on how it holds up. Did you use the whole kit? I only ask as I see people ditching the rim strips and using only the tape.
    Money doesn't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike, and that is pretty close.

  7. #7
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    I have actually been riding them all season no issues. I recently upgraded to a set of Mavic wheels but I was running Maxxis Ardents on the WTB Laserdics. They setup tubeless no problems. I followed the directions exactly with the stans kit/website. The laser discs require two layers of Stans tape (plenty was included in the kit), one layer of foam weather seal tape from Home Depot to raise the deep channel in the rim( I know sounds weird but this is what the website recommended and the foam adhesive tape was like $2 for some crazy long roll, width/thickness is on the stans site). Then the stans rim strip goes over that. I bet it took less than a hour to setup both wheels on the green goblin. I have never set up any wheels tubless before. It was amazing how much faster, better grip and climbing I gained.

  8. #8
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    Nice! This is one for the list of things I need to do:

    1) Shorter stem
    2) Grippier tires
    3) Tubeless
    4) Spare derailleur hanger
    Money doesn't buy happiness, but you can buy a bike, and that is pretty close.

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