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Thread: New Goblins

  1. #1
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    Smile New Goblins

    Received 2 Goblins today for my son and I, went for a quick ride and was very happy with the bike, all we will need for a long while(beautiful bike too)....I used to ride a bunch 10 years ago, actually owned a Ti Airborne mountain bike back in the day, this one seems to ride just as well, actually like the feel/fit of this bike better. Also thought I would mention that building/putting together the bike was very easy, most anyone should be able to do it. The brakes are rubbing a bit and the derailer needs a slight adjustment, having never used disk brakes I'll have to check out YouTube for some guidance. All in all, I'm very pleased with the purchase......Oh man, that seat is sooo small

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    The brake adjustment you're needing is simple... as you say there's plenty of help online though

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    Enjoy the ride! Go get it dirty and get lots of pics.

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    Ok, so I found a "how to" on disk brake adjustment.....it suggested that I loosen the allen bolts on the brake unit itself, then rubber band the brake handle "closed" go back and incrementally tighten the brake unit, then remove the rubber bands opening the brakes....After doing that nothing has changed, still having the same amount of brake rubbing. I also tried to adjust the pull distance on the brake levers themselves with the little black dial gizmo which helped a tad but still have rubbing on all brakes(on 2 bikes). Any suggestions?

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    Just one wheel or both? Make sure the wheels are properly centered, and the QR's are tight. Does it rub all the way around - so a complete turn of the wheel(s) results in rubbing all the time, or does it rub just in certain places?

    If you look down through the pads, is the disc centered in the caliper, or is it more to one side than the other? Is one of the pads touching the disc? There should be a small gap between each pad and the disc...

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    Another thing you can do is remove the wheels from the frame and use the handy tool to spread the pads out. Once you have the tool in the caliper, you can squeeze the brake handle a few times to get it firmed up. Remove the spreader tool and put the wheel back in and reset the bolts like you did above. Now if you still get rub, you may need to straighten the rotor a tiny amount - which you can do with a clean crescent wrench. Be sure when tightening down the bolts that you do it in small increments on each side until tight. A good thing to do is also spin the wheel while tightening, if you tighten one side too much it has a tendency to start rubbing.

    Here is the tool that came on your bike - hopefully you didnt throw it away:

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  7. #7
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    My bike mechanic said that loosening the clips on the brake lines that are closest to the calipers helps to keep the lines from pulling the caliper over during tightening. Seems to help a little.

    But for me, I usually have to do it by putting a light on the floor and eyeing it. Typically the rotors need to be trued as well.

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    Kept the pad spacer tool...whew....both tires/brakes on both bikes are rubbing, of course these are brand new bikes and rubbed right out of the box. Interestingly enough one bike rubs in specific/limited places on the rotor, the other bike they rub the entire diameter of the disk on both wheels. Funny too that I thought the derailers needed just a little adjustment, but they are pretty bad, if someone adjusted these beforehand they were blind....lol....I'll get it all worked out, eh, what one should expect buying direct.

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    I've found that if I have one spot that rubs, I move that part to the caliper and reset the bolts. After tightening, 99 percent of the time all the rub is gone. If it does not go away after that, you may want to try and true the rotor with that crescent - GENTLY - and that should do the trick. You can also try to bed the pads in, that helps, too. Bedding the pads requires you to ride the bike at a brisk pace, then hit the brakes to slow down, release, hit the brakes to slow more, and then finally one more time to stop. Do this at LEAST ten times to get some pad material on the rotor. This will also aid in noise reduction.

    Every now and again it never hurts to get an emory cloth, and scuff up the rotor surface, and the pads themselves. After a quick sand, wipe off the rotor and pads with iso alcohol and then bed the pads in again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    I've found that if I have one spot that rubs, I move that part to the caliper and reset the bolts. After tightening, 99 percent of the time all the rub is gone.
    Can help me with this, not quite understanding what you are doing.

    Thanks

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    If there is a rub in the rotor during rotation at one spot, move that spot to where the caliper is, then reset the bolts. This is for an intermittent rub, not a constant rub. It will be obvious - spin the wheel and if you here a quick rub, then silence, quick rub, then silence, move the rub spot to the caliper and reset your bolts. This is usually due to a slight rotor warp, but can be possibly corrected with this method. Usually, bending the rotor is LAST resort as you could make it worse before you make it better. Sorry if I was not clear.

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    Thanks, I get it now, I'll give that a try tomorrow.

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    No worries fsu - let us know how it goes!!

    Just know it could be an angry bike for being so clean and new!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Kept the pad spacer tool...whew....both tires/brakes on both bikes are rubbing, of course these are brand new bikes and rubbed right out of the box. Interestingly enough one bike rubs in specific/limited places on the rotor, the other bike they rub the entire diameter of the disk on both wheels. Funny too that I thought the derailers needed just a little adjustment, but they are pretty bad, if someone adjusted these beforehand they were blind....lol....I'll get it all worked out, eh, what one should expect buying direct.
    Its generally not the norm as we try to get everything adjusted perfect at the factory before we box the bike up. However, once it gets shipped its difficult to ensure things don't get knocked around a little and need some adjusting (that's why we have that small disclaimer on our website). But most bikes arrive needing very little work to get tuned in properly.

    As far as the brake rub goes, I don't see that anyone has mentioned this but the #1 cause for what you are describing is the wheel not being fully seated properly in the drop-out or fork. Check that first. If not, then the method of loosening the 5mm allen bolts on the caliper, then squeezing the lever and re-tightening should work. It may take a time or two to get right and you may need to give it a little slight nudge or adjustment by hand to get it perfect.

    Feel free to contact us directly if you need more assistance with it. Thanks!

    Jeremy
    Airborne Dude.

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    Especially the back has all of the pressure applied by the derailleur. It makes it awfully easy for the wheel to be incompletely seated.

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    Thanks for the help everyone.......So this is what I figured out....I loosened the brake unit from the bike frame, I then repositioned the wheel and locked it in place, this allowed the disk to center itself between the brake pads as the unit is loose,I then continued with the close the brake, tighten the brake unit and this worked great on the 1st bike. If I did not loosen the brake unit before trying to reposition the wheel there was still rubbing as the disk can not center itself when the brake unit is still snug, I haven't seen this particular sequence mentioned before so thought this might help someone else.

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    Kudos on getting it figured out! Have a great ride!

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    Anyone have any favorite videos on 2x10 SRAM front derailer adjustment? I need to work on both bikes. BigDaddyFlye.....it is all good, love the bikes, just know this is too complicated for a phone fix until we can figure out how to get an allen wrench through the lines...lol

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Anyone have any favorite videos on 2x10 SRAM front derailer adjustment? I need to work on both bikes. BigDaddyFlye.....it is all good, love the bikes, just know this is too complicated for a phone fix until we can figure out how to get an allen wrench through the lines...lol
    What's the problem with the FD?

  20. #20
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    Rubbing and won't shift to the large chainring on 1 bike.

  21. #21
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    bike radar has a great derailleur adjustment vid on youtube...helped me a ton!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDM88 View Post
    bike radar has a great derailleur adjustment vid on youtube...helped me a ton!
    Agreed Should be a pretty easy fix Sounds like it just needs to be set up from scratch - shouldn't take you more than 15 mins or so...

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    Great, I will look for the bike radar vid and give it a go this weekend

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Rubbing and won't shift to the large chainring on 1 bike.
    you'll want to adjust both the HIGH and LOW stop screws until it is dialed in. The screws are labeled H and L. You can also adjust the gap from the sprocket to the top of the D so that a penny fits in there. I think Park tool has a nice bit on it.

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    I got it all sorted out, both bikes derailers were redone from scratch, it took me a while but I now know these bikes like the back of my hand. One bike had me mystified as it was binding up when pedaling on the repair stand....it turned out that the bottom bracket was completely loose. We took them for a ride and everything was great. Love the bike, really nice riding rig.

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