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Thread: New Goblins

  1. #1
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    Smile New Goblins

    Received 2 Goblins today for my son and I, went for a quick ride and was very happy with the bike, all we will need for a long while(beautiful bike too)....I used to ride a bunch 10 years ago, actually owned a Ti Airborne mountain bike back in the day, this one seems to ride just as well, actually like the feel/fit of this bike better. Also thought I would mention that building/putting together the bike was very easy, most anyone should be able to do it. The brakes are rubbing a bit and the derailer needs a slight adjustment, having never used disk brakes I'll have to check out YouTube for some guidance. All in all, I'm very pleased with the purchase......Oh man, that seat is sooo small

  2. #2
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    The brake adjustment you're needing is simple... as you say there's plenty of help online though

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    Enjoy the ride! Go get it dirty and get lots of pics.

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    Ok, so I found a "how to" on disk brake adjustment.....it suggested that I loosen the allen bolts on the brake unit itself, then rubber band the brake handle "closed" go back and incrementally tighten the brake unit, then remove the rubber bands opening the brakes....After doing that nothing has changed, still having the same amount of brake rubbing. I also tried to adjust the pull distance on the brake levers themselves with the little black dial gizmo which helped a tad but still have rubbing on all brakes(on 2 bikes). Any suggestions?

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    Just one wheel or both? Make sure the wheels are properly centered, and the QR's are tight. Does it rub all the way around - so a complete turn of the wheel(s) results in rubbing all the time, or does it rub just in certain places?

    If you look down through the pads, is the disc centered in the caliper, or is it more to one side than the other? Is one of the pads touching the disc? There should be a small gap between each pad and the disc...

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    Another thing you can do is remove the wheels from the frame and use the handy tool to spread the pads out. Once you have the tool in the caliper, you can squeeze the brake handle a few times to get it firmed up. Remove the spreader tool and put the wheel back in and reset the bolts like you did above. Now if you still get rub, you may need to straighten the rotor a tiny amount - which you can do with a clean crescent wrench. Be sure when tightening down the bolts that you do it in small increments on each side until tight. A good thing to do is also spin the wheel while tightening, if you tighten one side too much it has a tendency to start rubbing.

    Here is the tool that came on your bike - hopefully you didnt throw it away:

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    My bike mechanic said that loosening the clips on the brake lines that are closest to the calipers helps to keep the lines from pulling the caliper over during tightening. Seems to help a little.

    But for me, I usually have to do it by putting a light on the floor and eyeing it. Typically the rotors need to be trued as well.

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    Kept the pad spacer tool...whew....both tires/brakes on both bikes are rubbing, of course these are brand new bikes and rubbed right out of the box. Interestingly enough one bike rubs in specific/limited places on the rotor, the other bike they rub the entire diameter of the disk on both wheels. Funny too that I thought the derailers needed just a little adjustment, but they are pretty bad, if someone adjusted these beforehand they were blind....lol....I'll get it all worked out, eh, what one should expect buying direct.

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    I've found that if I have one spot that rubs, I move that part to the caliper and reset the bolts. After tightening, 99 percent of the time all the rub is gone. If it does not go away after that, you may want to try and true the rotor with that crescent - GENTLY - and that should do the trick. You can also try to bed the pads in, that helps, too. Bedding the pads requires you to ride the bike at a brisk pace, then hit the brakes to slow down, release, hit the brakes to slow more, and then finally one more time to stop. Do this at LEAST ten times to get some pad material on the rotor. This will also aid in noise reduction.

    Every now and again it never hurts to get an emory cloth, and scuff up the rotor surface, and the pads themselves. After a quick sand, wipe off the rotor and pads with iso alcohol and then bed the pads in again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    I've found that if I have one spot that rubs, I move that part to the caliper and reset the bolts. After tightening, 99 percent of the time all the rub is gone.
    Can help me with this, not quite understanding what you are doing.

    Thanks

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    If there is a rub in the rotor during rotation at one spot, move that spot to where the caliper is, then reset the bolts. This is for an intermittent rub, not a constant rub. It will be obvious - spin the wheel and if you here a quick rub, then silence, quick rub, then silence, move the rub spot to the caliper and reset your bolts. This is usually due to a slight rotor warp, but can be possibly corrected with this method. Usually, bending the rotor is LAST resort as you could make it worse before you make it better. Sorry if I was not clear.

  12. #12
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    Thanks, I get it now, I'll give that a try tomorrow.

  13. #13
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    No worries fsu - let us know how it goes!!

    Just know it could be an angry bike for being so clean and new!

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Kept the pad spacer tool...whew....both tires/brakes on both bikes are rubbing, of course these are brand new bikes and rubbed right out of the box. Interestingly enough one bike rubs in specific/limited places on the rotor, the other bike they rub the entire diameter of the disk on both wheels. Funny too that I thought the derailers needed just a little adjustment, but they are pretty bad, if someone adjusted these beforehand they were blind....lol....I'll get it all worked out, eh, what one should expect buying direct.
    Its generally not the norm as we try to get everything adjusted perfect at the factory before we box the bike up. However, once it gets shipped its difficult to ensure things don't get knocked around a little and need some adjusting (that's why we have that small disclaimer on our website). But most bikes arrive needing very little work to get tuned in properly.

    As far as the brake rub goes, I don't see that anyone has mentioned this but the #1 cause for what you are describing is the wheel not being fully seated properly in the drop-out or fork. Check that first. If not, then the method of loosening the 5mm allen bolts on the caliper, then squeezing the lever and re-tightening should work. It may take a time or two to get right and you may need to give it a little slight nudge or adjustment by hand to get it perfect.

    Feel free to contact us directly if you need more assistance with it. Thanks!

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

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    Especially the back has all of the pressure applied by the derailleur. It makes it awfully easy for the wheel to be incompletely seated.

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    Thanks for the help everyone.......So this is what I figured out....I loosened the brake unit from the bike frame, I then repositioned the wheel and locked it in place, this allowed the disk to center itself between the brake pads as the unit is loose,I then continued with the close the brake, tighten the brake unit and this worked great on the 1st bike. If I did not loosen the brake unit before trying to reposition the wheel there was still rubbing as the disk can not center itself when the brake unit is still snug, I haven't seen this particular sequence mentioned before so thought this might help someone else.

  17. #17
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    Kudos on getting it figured out! Have a great ride!

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    Anyone have any favorite videos on 2x10 SRAM front derailer adjustment? I need to work on both bikes. BigDaddyFlye.....it is all good, love the bikes, just know this is too complicated for a phone fix until we can figure out how to get an allen wrench through the lines...lol

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Anyone have any favorite videos on 2x10 SRAM front derailer adjustment? I need to work on both bikes. BigDaddyFlye.....it is all good, love the bikes, just know this is too complicated for a phone fix until we can figure out how to get an allen wrench through the lines...lol
    What's the problem with the FD?

  20. #20
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    Rubbing and won't shift to the large chainring on 1 bike.

  21. #21
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    bike radar has a great derailleur adjustment vid on youtube...helped me a ton!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by CDM88 View Post
    bike radar has a great derailleur adjustment vid on youtube...helped me a ton!
    Agreed Should be a pretty easy fix Sounds like it just needs to be set up from scratch - shouldn't take you more than 15 mins or so...

  23. #23
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    Great, I will look for the bike radar vid and give it a go this weekend

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Rubbing and won't shift to the large chainring on 1 bike.
    you'll want to adjust both the HIGH and LOW stop screws until it is dialed in. The screws are labeled H and L. You can also adjust the gap from the sprocket to the top of the D so that a penny fits in there. I think Park tool has a nice bit on it.

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    I got it all sorted out, both bikes derailers were redone from scratch, it took me a while but I now know these bikes like the back of my hand. One bike had me mystified as it was binding up when pedaling on the repair stand....it turned out that the bottom bracket was completely loose. We took them for a ride and everything was great. Love the bike, really nice riding rig.

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    Kinda odd to me. My Goblin came in nearly perfect tune out of the box. Sorry to hear of all of your troubles.

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    Odd but true, not complaining just telling what I encountered. Truth is they were a mess, but worth the effort. I am a very "handy" guy so it was no big deal, I actually enjoyed it and learned a bunch.

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    Someone must have been asleep/drunk/high on the assembly line that day.

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    Fyi...the bike radar derailer vids were awesome. On one of the bikes I had to loosen/adjust the front derailer where it attaches to the down tube, it was way high and out of alignment, the bike radar vid helped me with this.

  30. #30
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    A few Pics, even though they all look alike.
    New Goblins-airborne-1.jpg
    New Goblins-airborne-2.jpg

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    A green Brooks! That is awesome. I ran a Black B17 on my Seeker for a while but I have rather large thighs and found it bruised the backs of my legs whenever I rode trails that required me to move behind the saddle a lot.

    What model is that? I'm an avid Brooks rider and would love to find one that works for me on my MTB.
    Eric

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    Brooks fan here too, yeah I found that green B17 standard and thought how perfect for a Goblin, my son has a black B17 on his. I always soften my Brooks which is a sin amongst many Brooks fans(and Brooks themselves), but dang they are soooo comfy when I do that. This saddle is brand new, freshly tenderized and it is amazingly comfortable. They last a long time even when I cheat breaking them in My son was hesitant to use an old mans saddle, but he loved it today and thinks it looks cool too. By the way I have large thighs too, did you ever try punching holes on the lower sides and running laces to narrow the profile? It works great and they never bother me. The new fangled seats are so bad compared to a broken in Brooks.

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    Brooks does make some narrower saddles that might work for you, the B17 is perfect for me.

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    Check these out too rivetcycleworks.com | Go your distance heard they are really nice and narrower as well.

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    I love the B17 on my road bike - couldn't live without it! Never bothers me at all on the road bike, on the MTB its the width of the frame at the back of the saddle that gets my legs if I am on a trail that requires a lot of rearward movement. Maybe I spend too much time off the back of the saddle. Doesn't seem to impact my riding at all, but if I ride 2 days in a row (or sit in a hard kitchen chair) I notice some bruising on the inner back side of my thighs.

    Overall comfort though? Brooks hands down. I didn't soften mine but I never treated it and ride it in all weather conditions, hail storms, torrential downpours during 100mile rides, etc. It has softened naturally and fits like an old glove now. About 1700 miles on it and just feel like I'm breaking it in.

    I do like the WTB SpeedV for mountain bikes as far as modern saddles go... seems to be a good balance between no sharp edges to get caught on and comfort. Since I tend to ride in baggy shorts or baggy pants, I will occasionally get caught on the back edge of the B17, which can make things a bit hairy. I usually steal my Brooks off my road bike for any time I'll be on the mountain bike for more than a few hours, though. Right now its living on my 26er for winter riding since that tends to be a bit less technical and aggressive.

    Selle Anatomica is another one I've wanted to try, but if its any indication of how it doesn't really bother me terribly, I haven't ordered one.

    I think the green was an awesome choice, though. Works perfectly!
    Eric

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    Yeah, I've seen those Selle Anatomica saddles, I believe one of the owners from that company started Rivet Leather Saddles, they are all probably good. But I got these Brooks for $87.00 which is a lot cheaper than the others. I see what you are saying about the rear end of the Brooks catching your inner thigh, I guess I'm not that aggressive and keep my butt on the saddle more often.

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    fsu1greg are you in florida?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitch1171 View Post
    fsu1greg are you in florida?
    Graduated from FSU a long time ago, grew up in South Florida where I did a lot of road cycling racing with the latinos......love the Dolphins hate the Hurricanes. I now live in Georgia.

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    Just an FYI.....there is a problem with my Reba shock and the guys from Airborne have been super fast helping out with the issue and are shipping me a new one. As far as I am concerned they handled it as well as anyone could hope for. Thanks Airborne!

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    Glad to hear they got it worked out for you!

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Just an FYI.....there is a problem with my Reba shock and the guys from Airborne have been super fast helping out with the issue and are shipping me a new one. As far as I am concerned they handled it as well as anyone could hope for. Thanks Airborne!

    Sorry that you're having issues but glad to hear Airborne is taking care of you.
    Eric

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    Quick question....A new Reba shock arrived, but there were no parts with it.....what parts would I need to simply replace the old Reba with this new one. Do I need any additional parts other than those already on the shock/bike? Oh, I just found a loose star nut for the steerer tube, is that all I will need?

  43. #43
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    New Goblins

    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Quick question....A new Reba shock arrived, but there were no parts with it.....what parts would I need to simply replace the old Reba with this new one. Do I need any additional parts other than those already on the shock/bike? Oh, I just found a loose star nut for the steerer tube, is that all I will need?
    You may need to cut the steer tube. Then install the star nut and switch the crown race over.

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    Quote Originally Posted by KrazyKreitzer View Post
    You may need to cut the steer tube. Then install the star nut and switch the crown race over.
    Thanks, yeah, I knew about these steps, hopefully that is it?

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    New shock is on, nice to have some rebound! Won't be able to check out the new shock for a few days as we are in the middle of some pretty good rain showers through tomorrow. Thanks for the help gents.

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    Good! Time to ride the wheels off it.

    Rain?? I'm jealous

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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeinMinn View Post
    Good! Time to ride the wheels off it.

    Rain?? I'm jealous
    The trails close here when it rains.....and we have had plenty of rain this year.

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    Yeah, riding wet trails is strongly discouraged. Most of my riding is on packed pea-gravelly trails so they can take some rain without major degradation. But in anything more than a light rain, I call it a day too.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeinMinn View Post
    Good! Time to ride the wheels off it.

    Rain?? I'm jealous
    Ah, I see you are from Minn., my wife grew up there too.....too darn cold for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fsu1greg View Post
    Ah, I see you are from Minn., my wife grew up there too.....too darn cold for me.
    This has been a cold fall/winter so far too. We've already had -20s. Fingers crossed for an early Spring!

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    Re: New Goblins

    Quote Originally Posted by MikeinMinn View Post
    This has been a cold fall/winter so far too. We've already had -20s. Fingers crossed for an early Spring!
    Its been cold here in NY too. As much as I'd like an early spring, I think December 2013 is a little too early. The soaking rain and 60 degree temps this weekend sure make it feel like its already here.
    Eric

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