Hi folks, I'm a NOOB to say the least. Its been over 20yrs since I was biking on a regular basis and am very excited about getting back into it. I did some research and decided to purchase the new Airborne Goblin. They are due to ship in a few weeks so needles to say the wait is going to kill me. I am going to have lots of questions to ask and I have spent a lot of time on the forum. I live outside of Ottawa, Canada and plan on doing a lot of trail riding.
Had mine out for a quick 1.5 mile trip to the park and back with my daughter for the first time this year. Nothing but paved trails, still don't have a rack for the car yet to take it to the state parks nearby.
I may have to use the "old man with a bad back" card and invest in Thudbuster. I hit a smal curb and thought I had enough clearance over the seat, but it hit me and I felt a sharp jolt in my lower spine.
I'd rather invest in a nice mid rise wider carbon handlebar and post in the modified Airbourn bikes thread, but I think I would be better off in spending my $ in something that will protect my health. At least until I get enough seat time and strengthen my core so I will be less prone to injury.
Anyone know what size quick release seat post clamp I would need? And any ideas on a good one that doesn't cost a lot? What makes one $9 and another $27 in other words?
How tall and how much do you weigh? I'm 5' 9" 160 lbs and ride a 18" and it is damn near perfect. Remember, you can change it up with handlebars, stems, and posts if you have to.
I’m 5'10" and 180lbs. That’s the size I was looking at (when it comes in) I bought a hard rock for my first bike, and it turned out to be crap. From components to the frame flexing when I climbed hills, just crap. As I am new it will take some trial and error to get all the geometry right, and see what works regardless of what bike I go with. Thanks for the input.
I'm 5'10" and 180lbs. That's the size I was looking at (when it comes in) I bought a hard rock for my first bike, and it turned out to be crap. From components to the frame flexing when I climbed hills, just crap. As I am new it will take some trial and error to get all the geometry right, and see what works regardless of what bike I go with. Thanks for the input.
Med Frame(18). The bike likes to go fast. It is stable and rigid. With a few changes it starts to loose weight pretty quick. For the money it is a screaming deal. I would not worry to much about ordering it on line. A lot of us have and have been totally happy with our purchase. Great company and great customer service.
^thanks for all the help. I'm talked into the Goblin, and as a ripple effect my buddy looking for his first bike was going to get a Cannondale trail 6 but now is going to order the Gaurdian. Now we just have to get inline....
Just placed my order this morning after a week of researching other bikes, craigslist, talking with friend mechanics. Was initially looking at the Guardian but fell in love with the spec : price and look of the Goblin. Can't wait to get back on the trails after a couple years w/o a mt bike. I'm 5'11" w/ a 34" inseam and ordered the 20".
- chase
SWEET!! I'm the same height with the same inseam and ride a 20" Goblin. It fits great and I rode the stock stem (105mm) for a long time, but eventually found that an 80mm stem really helped on longer rides.
Congrats Chase, welcome to the club!
I will be taking mine for it's first trip away from home. Going to the Pocono mtns in PA. Not doing anything worth noting, but now that I have a rack for the car, I can start to venture out and give myself and the bike a proper break in.
:thumbsup:
I rode my Felt with the XCT fork though some new to me trails this weekend. I had fun, but I'm hoping the Goblin's fork soaks up the roots much better than what I have.
I've read through the last couple of pages and I am a bit confused... are the 20" Goblins expected to arrive in the next few weeks or are those ones already sold out and now we have to wait until mid-summer? Can anyone shed some light?
I believe they haven't sold all of the goblins arriving on the first shipment. They just said they had to make another order due to the pre ordering of the current shipment being so high/unexpected.
I believe I read that with current demand, they were forecasted to run out of this shipment before summer, hence the "emergency order" of the second shipment.
You should be good to order one from this current shipment but you can always e-mail them to be certain.
Got my first flat today on the goblin and had the hardest time taking the the rear wheel off of all things (and putting it back on). I could not get the QR to slide out or back in the dropout. I've never had this issue on my old bike, which is why I was puzzled.
Same process I've used multiple times (shift to smallest cog to get derailleur farthest away from dropout, undo QR and loosen, then the wheel usually drops out). It was so weird. I'm not overlooking anything am I? (I feel dumb for asking but I've never had trouble changing the tube in the rear before today).
Got my first flat today on the goblin and had the hardest time taking the the rear wheel off of all things (and putting it back on). I could not get the QR to slide out or back in the dropout. I've never had this issue on my old bike, which is why I was puzzled.
Same process I've used multiple times (shift to smallest cog to get derailleur farthest away from dropout, undo QR and loosen, then the wheel usually drops out). It was so weird. I'm not overlooking anything am I? (I feel dumb for asking but I've never had trouble changing the tube in the rear before today).
Paint build up on the rear drop outs. When they dip frames into paint to paint them they get buil up on the drop outs sone times. Had the same issue. Scrap the paint off inside the drop out. Solved the problem.
Another issue, there's a clicking noise coming from the RD as I pedal. If I put my fingers on the upper pulley I can feel it really well as the chain runs through. I looked for a stiff link but can't find one. Any ideas?
I have a video of it, I will see if I can upload it.
When doing indexing I run out of clockwise rotation (at the barrel adjuster), what is this caused by? I undo the cable at the RD, have the barrel adjuster turned all the way in prior, then with the cable undone at the RD, I back the barrel adjuster out 2 full turns then reconnect the cable. Is this not the right way to start out with indexing? The limit screws and hanger appear to be fine.
The barrel adjuster is to take up slack/make the cable tighter for adjusting either indexing or keeping it dialed as the housing compresses over time.
If you're adjusting the shifts, you should use the barrel adjuster by dialing it counter-clockwise, (effectively loosening it) this puts more tension in the cable by compressing the housing. That's what's worked for me so far...
(the reason you back it out two turns is just so have that extra adjustment IF needed, but you shouldn't be screwing it IN to the lever/housing. - hope that makes sense
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