New Airborne Goblin

Printable View

  • 05-04-2013
    hord1080
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    The two Goblins posted above look different. What gives? Lmw has a bend in his top tube. Either way they both look great and I love all the cool green accents!

    Only the 16" frame has a bent top tube for more standover height for shorter riders.
  • 05-04-2013
    Jem7sk
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by hord1080 View Post
    Only the 16" frame has a bent top tube for more standover height for shorter riders.

    :thumbsup:
  • 05-13-2013
    lmw
    after a couple rides i think i may need to switch out the stem for something shorter. i'm 5'6 so my arms are pretty short, and my shoulders get pretty sore after riding and being hunched over trying to reach the bars, any recommendations? also, i've never had an air fork before, what is the red elastic thing on the fork for? i've just been riding it as it came out of the box
  • 05-13-2013
    Cnemie
    New Airborne Goblin
    The red elastic ring is a travel/sag indicator. It helps you keep track of how much or far the fork moves--very useful for set ups and adjustments.

    JensonUSA or similar always has good deals on Easton close out stems. The 50 series is a decent price/ weight compromise and the parts are good quality. You can find 50 Series 60mm stems and hi-rise bars to set up the cock-pit to your liking. Good luck.
  • 05-14-2013
    gunner66
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by lmw View Post
    after a couple rides i think i may need to switch out the stem for something shorter. i'm 5'6 so my arms are pretty short, and my shoulders get pretty sore after riding and being hunched over trying to reach the bars, any recommendations? also, i've never had an air fork before, what is the red elastic thing on the fork for? i've just been riding it as it came out of the box

    You may not be getting the most out of your fork if you are not setting it up properly. There are lots of youtube how to videos on suspension setup. Also you will need a shock pump I bought this one from amazon and it has worked just fine.

    Amazon.com: Avenir MTB Shock Bike Pump with Gauge (Silver/Black): Sports & Outdoors
  • 05-14-2013
    lmw
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Cnemie View Post
    The red elastic ring is a travel/sag indicator. It helps you keep track of how much or far the fork moves--very useful for set ups and adjustments.

    JensonUSA or similar always has good deals on Easton close out stems. The 50 series is a decent price/ weight compromise and the parts are good quality. You can find 50 Series 60mm stems and hi-rise bars to set up the cock-pit to your liking. Good luck.

    what size is the stock goblin stem? i cant find that info on their website
  • 05-14-2013
    trevor_b
    Re: New Airborne Goblin
    105 or 110 I can't remember. It's on their site.

    Edit- it's under the geometry tab on their site. Depends on frame size.
  • 05-14-2013
    lmw
    after some quick research, i am thinking this bar and stem combo

    Easton EA50 Riser Monkey Bar 2012 | Easton | Brand | www.PricePoint.com
    Easton EA50 Stem 2013 | Easton | Brand | www.PricePoint.com (60mm)

    what do you guys think?
  • 05-14-2013
    Cnemie
    New Airborne Goblin
    That is the exact spec I installed on my Wife's Goblin. A hi-rise EA50 Monkey Bar and 60 mm stem. It shortens the reach and provides a more upright seating position. Add some Peaty Lock on grips (Lizard Skins) to the order to make your life easier. They won't slip and they are easy to take on and off.
  • 05-14-2013
    lmw
    thanks for the information. i love the bike but these upgrades should help with my t-rex arms
  • 05-14-2013
    Tokomojo
    My 16" came with a 90 mm stem. First few rides in tight switch backs were difficult because I felt like I had to push the bike around the turn. Switch to a 60 mm stem and a wider bar, and the bike totally transformed. Now I can right the tight twisty trails with ease. It' every bit as nimble as my old stumpjumper was now.
  • 05-16-2013
    rick5587
    I've been drooling over this bike for the past month, and finally went ahead and purchased a 16 on Monday night/Tuesday morning. After a Heat win and drinking with some friends I started staring again at the freaking bike on the website and reviews. Then I read through Jeremy's explanation for the origin of the name Goblin and that made me buy one on the spot. I work with aircraft for a living so in my inebriated state you sold me at like 2 in the morning! Damn you Jeremy for making me spend more money!!!
  • 05-17-2013
    Tokomojo
    Re: New Airborne Goblin
    Oh...but you won't regret it!
  • 05-17-2013
    rick5587
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Tokomojo View Post
    Oh...but you won't regret it!

    I know...just being sarcastic. The bad part is I got my AWB# on Wednesday and now I'm being sent to Panama for a week. I'd rather be here and take my new bike out the same day!!! Not more work! I gotta win the lottery.
  • 05-17-2013
    BigDaddyFlyer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rick5587 View Post
    Damn you Jeremy for making me spend more money!!!

    LOLZ~!

    You're welcome....errr...I'm sorry??? :)

    Either way enjoy the bike!

    Jeremy
  • 05-20-2013
    Bor_MTB
    1 Attachment(s)
    My new 16" Goblin! Couldn't be happier with it.

    Attachment 800821
  • 05-20-2013
    Zerort
    Awesome shot
  • 05-21-2013
    BigDaddyFlyer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Bor_MTB View Post
    My new 16" Goblin! Couldn't be happier with it.

    Attachment 800821

    That's Airborne Facebook Photo Of the Day material right there! Nice shot!

    Jeremy
  • 05-23-2013
    lmw
    can anyone tell me how to go about shortening the cable lengths?
  • 05-23-2013
    Jem7sk
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by lmw View Post
    can anyone tell me how to go about shortening the cable lengths?

    The shifting cables should be easy.. Although you might have to get new cables and cut and reuse the housings (I use my dremel for cutting housings). However, I am not sure of the exact details of the Hydraulic cables although I've seen some YouTube vids of it and it looks even easier than shift cables.
  • 05-23-2013
    Cnemie
    New Airborne Goblin
    For the dérailleurs, Park Tool has good info on bike maintenance and repair including cable shortening and adjustments. http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help. You also need a good quality cable/housing cutting tool.
  • 05-23-2013
    rick5587
    1 Attachment(s)
    Can someone tell me what this is?
    Just got the bike...looks really good in person! Derailleurs need a little adjusting but other than that I'm good to go...except what is in this bag?

    Thanks,

    Rick
  • 05-23-2013
    Jem7sk
    Two spare cable ends and the screws for the front and rear reflectors
  • 05-23-2013
    rick5587
    Thank you...so the screws are useless. What are the cable ends for? Brake lines?
  • 05-23-2013
    Jem7sk
    Shift cables... If you look at the ends on your derailluers now you will see them there. The spares are if you need to pull out the slack. I didn't need to do hat on mine
  • 05-23-2013
    rick5587
    so they are crimps basically...got it. thanks man.
  • 05-23-2013
    rick5587
    one question...I'm trying to figure out how to adjust the derailleurs, but for some reason they will not shift to the highest or lowest cog on the cassette...basically 8 gears are working and when I get close to either end I can hear rubbing with the front der cage. Fixing it is beyond me since I just started out a few months ago, but my question is, will someone that worked on thousands of race bikes in the 70's and 80's and no experience since then be able to fine tune my bike or should I just take it to a local LBS. I'd rather have a few beers with my dad's friend and learn from him but I know the tech has changed drastically since the last time he worked on bikes.
  • 05-24-2013
    KrazyKreitzer
    1 Attachment(s)
    New Airborne Goblin
    Take to to him and have him look. If nothing else you get to spend some time with him. You can also adjust the rear by taking the cable loose from the derailleur and adjusting the high and low limit screws making sure the derailleur doesn't go past the smallest or largest cogs.

    This pic may help:

    Attachment 801794
  • 05-24-2013
    rick5587
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KrazyKreitzer View Post
    Take to to him and have him look. If nothing else you get to spend some time with him. You can also adjust the rear by taking the cable loose from the derailleur and adjusting the high and low limit screws making sure the derailleur doesn't go past the smallest or largest cogs.

    This pic may help:

    Attachment 801794

    Thanks...I tried this last night, but noticed that I can't shift to the lowest or highest cog on the cassette. Even if I manually move it to one of them it shifts the one next to it.
  • 05-24-2013
    8iking VIIking
    1 Attachment(s)
    You'll need to turn both of these screws counterclockwise a bit. I'd suggest taking it on a test ride and shift it into the 2nd largest cog. Then stop and turn the L screw a quarter turn counterclockwise. Start riding again and see if it'll shift into that biggest cog. If not, stop and turn it out another quarter turn. Repeat until it'll shift then fine tune to make sure the derailleur pulley is in line with the biggest cog. Then repeat this process with the smallest cog and the H screw and that should solve your problem.


    Attachment 801980

    Hope this helps! Good luck to ya
  • 05-24-2013
    rick5587
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    You'll need to turn both of these screws counterclockwise a bit. I'd suggest taking it on a test ride and shift it into the 2nd largest cog. Then stop and turn the L screw a quarter turn counterclockwise. Start riding again and see if it'll shift into that biggest cog. If not, stop and turn it out another quarter turn. Repeat until it'll shift then fine tune to make sure the derailleur pulley is in line with the biggest cog. Then repeat this process with the smallest cog and the H screw and that should solve your problem.


    Attachment 801980

    Hope this helps! Good luck to ya

    Thanks...trying this as soon as I get home.
  • 05-24-2013
    Jem7sk
    Shift as far up or down as you can since they are both out. Then say if you are on the H side (smaller cogs, highest gear on the shifter) start loosening (Lefty Loosey) the H screw. YOu will be able to see the derailluer move under the cogs. Get it to where it looks in line with the smallest cog. Then test it by getting the rear wheel off the ground and spinning the cranks while shifting down and up (through the high gears). When you get it perfect work on the opposite side the same way. Then you might have to do some fine tuning with the barrel adjuster on the lever for any issues in between.
  • 05-24-2013
    ddblu
    I had to do the same thing to my Goblin. It actually wasn't too bad out of the box, but I made it worse attempting to adjust it. Once I got the whole H-L thing straightened back out, experimenting with the barrel adjuster is what actually put the finishing touches on it and made it nice and smooth. You have received good advice above. I was winging it and started to get frustrated. If you do, just slow down a bit and take your time.
  • 05-24-2013
    rick5587
    OK, messing around with both the H and L I was able to get it aligned with the smallest cog finally but now when I shift to the next the derailleur moves slightly but not enough to shift to the next one. After that it will shift down to all the others but again I can't get to the largest cog. I can though shift back to the smallest but again, that second one is skipped. What about the barrel adjuster? Any advice there? Let me know if this made sense.
  • 05-24-2013
    Jem7sk
    Get the largest cog setup next using he L. L is for low gear side only (the largest cog, 1st gear) and H is for High Gear (smallest cog, 10th gear). Once you got those setup use the barrel adjuster to fine tune the middle gears. If your having the same problem with 9th once you do this you need to tighten it a click or two with the barrel adjuster.
  • 05-24-2013
    Jem7sk
    I'm not sure if you have a barrel adjuster on your derailluer... Mine doesn't (Sram x4) but yours is different. If you can't get the low side with this your hanger might be bent
    http://youtu.be/92Cu_jneQFw
  • 05-24-2013
    atomiclab
    I just ordered a Goblin in 20" today, and im hoping and praying that there will be one left for me.
  • 05-24-2013
    Zerort
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by atomiclab View Post
    I just ordered a Goblin in 20" today, and im hoping and praying that there will be one left for me.

    Hope your good with rear derailleurs. Seems like everyone, including me, had to adjust theirs.
  • 05-24-2013
    atomiclab
    Im not a bike mechanic or anything, but I do work on my own bikes and my friends bikes. I have adjusted some derailleurs several times. it can definitely be a lengthy process and repetitive, especially in the beginning.

    you usually have to start from zero. meaning you may not be able to tweak your current adjustment into being right on.

    you may need to put it in the cog position of zero (or near zero) cable tension. for Shimano that is the small cog. Sram will be new for me, but fundamentals are the same.

    cable tension controls which cog you are in in conjunction with shifter position. Cable tension also controls the tendency of your chain wanting to jump (or not jump) to the next upper or lower cog. less tension moves to the zero position ( small cog on the shimanos) and more tension moves the derailleur away from "zero" position.

    you may have to get it in a decent adjustment first, then adjust the "High" "Low" limit screws just like KrazyKreitzer posted just up the thread.

    then fine tune the cable tension making the gears shifting better in tune as you turn the crank constantly and running up and down the gears.

    Watch videos on youtube. thats how I learned. :thumbsup:
  • 05-25-2013
    rick5587
    By following advice from the book "Bicycle Maintenance and Repair" I was able to get it pretty much working. The only gear I cannot shift to is the largest cog on the cassette. Basically it was a mixture of the H and L and also the barrel adjuster to fine tune it. The other problem was that the front derailleur also needed to be adjusted. I had to loosen it and re-align it in order to get rid of the rubbing. Needless to say it was a pain in the ass, but I have everything working smoothly except that last cog...the largest one, which I don't really use so I will ride tomorrow and I guess take it to an LBS sometime next week. Unless one of you can tell me what else to do...
  • 05-25-2013
    BigDaddyFlyer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Zerort View Post
    Hope your good with rear derailleurs. Seems like everyone, including me, had to adjust theirs.

    I'm sorry to hear about RD issues; we do our best to get them tuned correctly before they are packed.

    Not to minimize your problem, but not "everyone" has a problem with their RD out of the box. In fact, most folks don't have any issues. The thing about every foum (bikes, cars, cameras, etc) is that generally folks post when they have a problem, and when things go perfect out of the box there's nothing to post about. Based on the now large # of Goblins we've sold versus the feedback we get here and via email and phone, the issue rate is very low.

    Jeremy
  • 05-25-2013
    rustybkr
    Re: New Airborne Goblin
    Huh? Are you saying that you unbox the bikes after they arrive from China, tune them up and then repackage them?
  • 05-25-2013
    BigDaddyFlyer
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rustybkr View Post
    Huh? Are you saying that you unbox the bikes after they arrive from China, tune them up and then repackage them?

    Nope, that's not what I said. We build, then partially disassemble and then pack them at the factory. Our warehouse is a shipping facility only.

    Thanks,

    Jeremy
  • 05-25-2013
    Jem7sk
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rick5587 View Post
    By following advice from the book "Bicycle Maintenance and Repair" I was able to get it pretty much working. The only gear I cannot shift to is the largest cog on the cassette. Basically it was a mixture of the H and L and also the barrel adjuster to fine tune it. The other problem was that the front derailleur also needed to be adjusted. I had to loosen it and re-align it in order to get rid of the rubbing. Needless to say it was a pain in the ass, but I have everything working smoothly except that last cog...the largest one, which I don't really use so I will ride tomorrow and I guess take it to an LBS sometime next week. Unless one of you can tell me what else to do...

    Can you post a pic of your hanger inline with your frame so we can see if it is bent?
  • 05-25-2013
    WineDine29er
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I'm sorry to hear about RD issues; we do our best to get them tuned correctly before they are packed.

    Not to minimize your problem, but not "everyone" has a problem with their RD out of the box. In fact, most folks don't have any issues. The thing about every foum (bikes, cars, cameras, etc) is that generally folks post when they have a problem, and when things go perfect out of the box there's nothing to post about. Based on the now large # of Goblins we've sold versus the feedback we get here and via email and phone, the issue rate is very low.

    Jeremy


    I can attest to this...my RD was perfectly dialed right out of the box with zero issues. My FD only needed minor cable adjustment...the high and low limits were set properly.
  • 05-25-2013
    Mitch1171
    If your not sure how to do it take it to a local shop. It will take them 5 minutes to get r done for ya. Best to do that then to take it way out of adjustment. Its a great thing to know as the more you ride the more you'll have to make a little adjustment here or there. Hope you enjoy it! Peace:thumbsup:
  • 05-25-2013
    Cnemie
    New Airborne Goblin
    Dérailleur issues and other mechanical adjustments are just one of the caveats of buying a bicycle directly from the manufacture. There are tons of how to videos and online information for fine tuning the components. I listed the Park Tool site above, but there are several others. Additionally, REI and other stores offer weekend classes for bicycle repair.

    Ultimately, there is no shame in taking a new bike to the LBS. If a purchaser is not familiar with the fine tuning and technical adjustments of components a professional adjustment is the best way to get the most out of a new ride. Just my thoughts.
  • 05-25-2013
    rick5587
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Nope, that's not what I said. We build, then partially disassemble and then pack them at the factory. Our warehouse is a shipping facility only.

    Thanks,

    Jeremy

    I understand...that's the way it goes with some of our products we manufacture. We sell hundreds of a certain item and get three people with problems and they start saying what a bad product it is even though no one else is complaining when looking through my system. That's the way it goes.
  • 05-25-2013
    rick5587
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    Can you post a pic of your hanger inline with your frame so we can see if it is bent?

    Here is a pic. Let me know what you think.
  • 05-25-2013
    KrazyKreitzer
    New Airborne Goblin
    For example, my bike needed no adjustment when I got it. I was glad but have definitely learned to adjust brakes and shifters after swapping forks, wheels, and breaking my front shifter in what I'll refer to as a crash.