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  1. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoWolfpack View Post
    Hey riders....I purchased my New Gobling in 20" and like it a lot. I am 6-1 and 190 lbs. Maybe could have gone with the 18" but after riding other 18" hardtails---felt that would be too small.

    Nonetheless, I am looking to upgrade the seatpost and handlebar to carbon? Any suggestions as I am new to the carbon world! Thanks much in advance.
    At 6'1", unless you have some odd body proportions I would have recommended a 20" so I definitely think you bought the correct size. I'm the same height and that's the size Goblin that I ride.

    I've been digging the FSA SLK carbon stuff lately. I've been riding their seatpost and low-rise riser bars and love them. The bend on the bars is perfect and made this old-school flat-bar guy a believer in low-rise riser bars. They also make them in flat format as well.

    I'm thinking about a lighter/wider bar, and a lighter seatpost... Probably a Thomson Elite because I like their clamping mechanism and they look really nice.

    The one question I have is, is the stock Goblin seatpost considered a 'setback' post and if so, how much is the setback? I measured ~2 cm, so, if I want the same geometry, do I go with a 20 mm setback post? This is probably totally obvious, but I just want to make sure I'm not missing something.
    Yep, that's what you would want to buy, the 20mm setback Thomson post. I also like Thomson stuff a lot; I've got their 410mm post on my personal HobGoblin and its been bullet-proof. I like how they butted the post (more material in the front and back and less on the sides). And honestly the alu Thomson post is about as light as many cheaper carbon posts on the market. The only thing it doesn't do as well as a carbon post is damp vibrations, but for a lot of folks that isn't what they are looking for anyway.

    Hope that helps!

    Jeremy
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  2. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Yep, that's what you would want to buy, the 20mm setback Thomson post. I also like Thomson stuff a lot; I've got their 410mm post on my personal HobGoblin and its been bullet-proof. I like how they butted the post (more material in the front and back and less on the sides). And honestly the alu Thomson post is about as light as many cheaper carbon posts on the market. The only thing it doesn't do as well as a carbon post is damp vibrations, but for a lot of folks that isn't what they are looking for anyway.

    Hope that helps!

    Jeremy
    As always, very helpful. Thanks Jeremy! Yeah, the aluminum Thomson posts are very light. I'll be picking up one of those posts in the near future... First things first... I have a set of Mavic Crossride ST wheels on order for my Goblin that I'm really stoked about. I'll be sure to post a pic on the modified Airborne bikes thread once they're on.

  3. #153
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    I'm assuming there won't be pedals with the Goblin XO; recommend a good platform pedal for it?

  4. #154
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    I like my Wellgo MG-1's. Can be found for about $40 online and they're really grippy and light. I think the green ones would look awesome on the Goblin XO. Or the gold ones if you want to accent the XO bits.

  5. #155
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    I have some white MG-1s on my green Goblin and they're smooth and grippy.

  6. #156
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    Deity Compounds and HT Nano P - both plastic bodies, metal pins, around 340 grams and totally rebuildable. Great traction, and not too much $$$ for a decent platform/flat.
    Airborne Flight Crew

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  7. #157
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    Anybody know if the Geax AKA tires on my goblin are compatible with Stans ZTR Crest tubeless wheels?

  8. #158
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    Quote Originally Posted by ElDuderino2412 View Post
    Anybody know if the Geax AKA tires on my goblin are compatible with Stans ZTR Crest tubeless wheels?
    They should I used them on my Black Flag wheels pretty much same set up as the Stans...no problems at all

  9. #159
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXTony View Post
    They should I used them on my Black Flag wheels pretty much same set up as the Stans...no problems at all
    +1 I ride Charger Pros with AKAs, no problem, they are Stans BST type wheels too.

  10. #160
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    Quote Originally Posted by TXTony View Post
    They should I used them on my Black Flag wheels pretty much same set up as the Stans...no problems at all
    Quote Originally Posted by swildnm View Post
    +1 I ride Charger Pros with AKAs, no problem, they are Stans BST type wheels too.
    Thanks, looked like they were according to Stan's site. Just wanted to make sure.

  11. #161
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    So this weekend I put on a carbon handlebar I purchased from Nashbar:

    Nashbar CF-250 Carbon Riser Bars - Normal Shipping Ground[Ljava.lang.String;@2ad12ad1#ReviewHeader

    It made a nice difference of the standard handlebar and I like the low rise of it. I am 6-1 and love my Large (20") size Goblin, but wondered if it was a tad too big. After installing the low rise bar AND moving the saddle rails forward in the seatpost, I see a big difference. Very happy now.

    I am now looking for a carbon seatpost. Thanks everybody for ideas and opinions.

  12. #162
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    Just thought i would let future Goblin owners know what they could face if left untouched. Real bad cable rub on my nice fork.This was about after a weeks worth of riding. I read about the cables being cut to long, but thought it would be fine. Well i re-routed and shortened both shifter cables and set them up so they route to the opposite side of the frame like my Trek. The hydraulic lines seem to be fine. Had to touch up the spots with black nail polish.




  13. #163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenkeep View Post
    Just thought i would let future Goblin owners know what they could face if left untouched. Real bad cable rub on my nice fork.This was about after a weeks worth of riding. I read about the cables being cut to long, but thought it would be fine. Well i re-routed and shortened both shifter cables and set them up so they route to the opposite side of the frame like my Trek. The hydraulic lines seem to be fine. Had to touch up the spots with black nail polish.
    Can you show us a picture of what you mean by routing to the opposite side of the frame? I'm fighting this too.

  14. #164
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    If you look at your bike from the front you will notice that the shifter cables are routed down the the same side of the frame. This is causing excessive rubbing. What you want to do is criss-cross the cables. Looking from the front-

    Left shifter to right side of frame
    Right Shifter to left side of frame

    You should start by adjusting your brake levers and shifter to exactly where you like them first. Then disconnect the shifter cables at the front and rear derailleure by loosening the securing bolts. Remove the cables. You will then need to remove a little excess length (approx 2.5 in) from each of the shifter cable closest the shifter (the longer ones). The smaller sections toward the rear need just a touch nipped off. I also used a couple pieces of clear packing tape where the cables hit the head tube and where the top and down tube are. The goal is to leave just enough slack so the handle bars can do a full 180 (just in case of accidents). I will post some pics soon
    Last edited by Greenkeep; 01-14-2013 at 03:50 PM.

  15. #165
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenkeep View Post
    If you look at your bike from the front you will notice that the shifter cables are routed down the the same side of the frame. This if causing excessive rubbing. What you want to do is criss-cross the cables. Looking from the front-

    Left shifter to right side of frame
    Right Shifter to left side of frame

    You should start by adjusting your brake levers and shifter to exactly where you like them first. Then disconnect the shifter cables at the front and rear derailleure by loosening the securing bolts. Remove the cables. You will then need to remove a little excess length (approx 2.5 in) from each of the shifter cable closest the shifter (the longer ones). The smaller sections toward the rear need just a touch nipped off. I also used a couple pieces of clear packing tape where the cables hit the head tube and where the top and down tube are. The goal is to leave just enough slack so the handle bars can do a full 180 (just in case of accidents). I will post some pics soon
    Thanks. I'll try that.

  16. #166
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    When u cut the excess it gives a cleaner look and keeps the cable off the shock. My Trek had really good routing so i used that as my guide. What they did made sense and minimizes wear on the frame. The brake lines are a little long but will do. They are not as big an issue as the two shift cables. Don' forget to cut off the excess cable at the derailleur's. Airborne should have supplied you with two butt ends to terminate the bare wire with your bike. Hope this helps.





  17. #167
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    Thanks again. I've got a cable cutter on order. Then I'll launch into doing the same.

    Looks a lot cleaner too, by the way.

  18. #168
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    I think I've adressed the "long" cables on here before, but in case someone missed it:

    The cables are the length they are based on the length needed if someone runs a long, positive stem in the upward position, also allowing for the bars to spin 180degrees in a crash without kinking the cable. What we don't want is a customer to buy a bike with cables too short for their needed fit set-up or style.

    Every size has different length cable sets due to different TT, and in the case of the XL size, HT lengths.

    Thanks.
    Airborne Dude.

  19. #169
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    Thanks Jeremy, but i will have to say even with a 120mm stem with a steep rise the cables would still be excessive. Aside from that the routing of the cables are incorrect. Not a big deal but left uncorrected the result will be like my pics above. Great bike none the less!

  20. #170
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    Thanks for your kind words about the bike!

    I have to respectfully disagree on the cable routing. If the cables were routed the way that you would like, they would cross each other at the hydro cable and there will be extra friction in the system. It is not the recommended routing, and doubtful that your Trek was routed that way at the factory.

    More than likely your shop did that prior to purchase, as that is an old-school roadbike shift cable routing trick. However the roadbikes don't have a hydro cable running between them on the DT.

    I hope that makes sense.

    It's a no-win situation on the cable lengths. If we made them the length you want, someone would complain that they are too short when they put a long upward stem and wide riser bars on their bike. Better to put a little extra on there and let people personalize their lengths if they see fit.

    Jeremy
    Airborne Dude.

  21. #171
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    Not to beat a dead horse(well maybe,ahah) The stock cable routing has both the rear hydro and rear derailleur lines going down the same side of the frame. Right away they are pushed against (quite firmly) the top portion of the fork. Each turn of the handle bars creates friction, so much so that the cables were actually cutting into the aluminum. Even if you kept the routing the same and changed over to a higher rise stem it would still hit because of excess cable. My daughters Trek is routed like the Goblin and it works in that bikes case because the handle bar has a very large rise allowing enough room for the cable to make the bend leaving enough room without touching the head tube much. Also the cable retainers on her bike are on the upper side portion of the down tube, not directly under the head tube at the crotch like on the Goblin.

    The front hydro line is ok and is not really an issue despite IMO being a little to long as well. The issue's are really just the other three lines. I think leaving the extra room is a great idea so you will not be limited when customizing the bike to your liking but i also think that the cable length is to long for the bike as it stands stock. Might be worth noting to customers that modification might be necessary and explain. Also i feel the added length may also be needed for shipping purposes(just an idea)The bike is beautiful and the last thing you want to see is damage like my above pictures with very little use. The fork alone is 400+.

    Also as side note, think about this if the cable is curved 180 degrees going down the same side of the frame every turn of the handlebar in the same direction will send the cable or cables into the head tube. Opposite routing will allow the cables to hang freely and when turning in the opposite direction will give room for the cable and push it out away from the frame and gently graze the head tube turning in the same direction. Just a thought
    Last edited by Greenkeep; 01-15-2013 at 04:07 PM.

  22. #172
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    When we shuttle and ride parks on the DH bikes, the frames are subject to a similar sort of wear by consistent rubbing (racks on the lifts, tailgate bed, etc.). Frames are subject to all kinds of wear, cables or whatever. Look where the cables go inside the frame - anywhere where there is brief contact, there will be wear over time - regardless of cable routing.

    Lizard Skins makes a vinyl patches in various sizes that are great for protecting frames/parts from this very issue. We use it on our DH bikes to protect from wear as mentioned - I'm sure you can get off-brands, or even some other vinyl or poly-plastic thing sold for a completely different use. Using in on my Hobgoblin this week.

    Try here: Lizardstore
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  23. #173
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhazard View Post
    When we shuttle and ride parks on the DH bikes, the frames are subject to a similar sort of wear by consistent rubbing (racks on the lifts, tailgate bed, etc.). Frames are subject to all kinds of wear, cables or whatever. Look where the cables go inside the frame - anywhere where there is brief contact, there will be wear over time - regardless of cable routing.

    Lizard Skins makes a vinyl patches in various sizes that are great for protecting frames/parts from this very issue. We use it on our DH bikes to protect from wear as mentioned - I'm sure you can get off-brands, or even some other vinyl or poly-plastic thing sold for a completely different use. Using in on my Hobgoblin this week.

    Try here: Lizardstore
    Understood, yes this is normal for bikes. I have had several bikes and this was the first time i noticed anything like this. The cables were actually cutting into the fork, the lines almost lost enough insulation exposing the wire in the cable housing. On top of that the hydro line could have burst as well or leaked. This is not normal wear but poor routing and I have had the bike only week. I'm not trying to be a PITA, just trying to help make a great product that much better.
    Last edited by Greenkeep; 01-15-2013 at 06:54 PM.

  24. #174
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greenkeep View Post
    When u cut the excess it gives a cleaner look and keeps the cable off the shock. My Trek had really good routing so i used that as my guide. What they did made sense and minimizes wear on the frame. The brake lines are a little long but will do. They are not as big an issue as the two shift cables. Don' forget to cut off the excess cable at the derailleur's. Airborne should have supplied you with two butt ends to terminate the bare wire with your bike. Hope this helps.




    FWIW, I have two Goblin's (Green and the new one) and set the Green up that way after fighting with it for a while, but it's been that way for nearly a year. The new Goblin has been set up that why from day one and I was a pre-order for those. I've had no problems and it actually shifts better than it did stock.

    I certainly understand no being able to please everyone, but I would expect it to match up more closely stock. It's not a big deal to me as by the second go round, I chucked the stock cables during the inital setup, but not everyone would consider shortening them part of the out of box setup. Unless someone is looking mount the shifters on a set of tri bars, lopping a few inches off of all the cables makes the most sense.
    There's only one bigger sheep than manufacturer's - consumers! - AndrewTO

  25. #175
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    Thanks for the input.
    Airborne Dude.

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