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  1. #1
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    Idea! Going 1x10 - 30T Race Face N/W

    After upgrading the stem and tires, it is time to experiment going to a 1x10 setup. Right now the 30T Narrow/Wide RaceFace chainring is on sale at BikeBling for less than 24 bucks! With some great advice from 8ikingVIIking, I pulled the trigger on it last night. With this upgrade, I will lose about a pound in weight and (hopefully) find the gearing that I am needing. I find myself in certain circumstances either too high geared or too low with no middle ground between the 24 and 38 chainrings. If anything, this will be a great experiment to see if I can find that middle ground. I will update once it arrives next week with pics and a small writeup as there isn't much to the upgrade.
    Last edited by s0ul_chicken; 10-16-2013 at 07:08 AM.

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    Interested to see the conversion.

    What's a example of a circumstance where you are "too low or high"?

  3. #3
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    Going up hills mostly trevor_b. There is a 3 mile loop that I hit after work everynight with a section of uphills that I just can't seem to find the right gear for. I have run that section in the 24T - 3rd and 4th gear, and 38T - 2nd and 3rd gear and neither of them feel right at all. I have gone above and below the gears I have stated, but no luck. I can make them work, I just think I can make it work better if I had a chainring that was inbetween the 24 and 38.

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    What do you mean by doesn't feel right? Too hard or too easy to sit and spin etc?

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    Yep, you hit the nail on the head. I have had my Goblin only a month now, but I am coming off a 2x7 setup on my Giant that I rode for two years and wondering if that has something to do with it. Perhaps just not used to the new gearing??

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    Yea I know coming from a 3x8 previously to a 2x10 on the goblin it was definitely a different/learning experience. I have a good handle on it now though (after 500+ miles).

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    I don't think I can wait that long...lol - right now I am at 150 miles. Not sure I could wait another 350 miles to see if I can grow into it. For 25 bucks though, it is worth a shot to see if this does anything for my riding. Worst case is that I hate it too, but can easily get my money back out of the chainring on CL.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    After upgrading the stem and tires, it is time to experiment going to a 1x10 setup. Right now the 30T Narrow/Wide RaceFace chainring is on sale at BikeBling for less than 24 bucks! With some great advice from 8ikingVIIking, I pulled the trigger on it last night. With this upgrade, I will lose about a pound in weight and (hopefully) find the gearing that I am needing. I find myself in certain circumstances either too high geared or too low with no middle ground between the 24 and 38 chainrings. If anything, this will be a great experiment to see if I can find that middle ground. I will update once it arrives next week with pics and a small writeup as there isn't much to the upgrade.
    Are you also getting a type 2 RD? It really needs that as well to work the best. The leaving the FD still-on-as-a-guide trick works "OK", but it doesn't keep the chain from popping off all of the time. The type 2 FD helps a lot.

    Good luck!

    Jeremy
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    I'd be interested in trying this out. Do you plan to completely remove the FD? If so, isn't a chain guide needed?

    Jeremy, are you saying that chainring with no FD and a type 2 RD won't need a chain guide?

  10. #10
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    With the narrow/wide ring, it should not need a chainguide for the most part, but a rear derailleur with a clutch would be ideal (according to RaceFace). I just want to try this ring on for size as an experiment, and then if it works as far as gearing, then I will seek out a clutched rear derailleur (or a nice chainguide depending on cash flow). I have talked to several people that use this 30T ring in a 1x10, and they all love it, with almost no dropped chains.

    As far as the front derailleur, I will more than likely ditch it when the time comes. All I plan to do is remove the shifter and cable for the first few rides to see how it all works and feels.

  11. #11
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    I recently switched to a 1x9 setup on my Guardian with no guide whatsoever, as the FD wouldn't adjust over enough to act as one. At first I dropped the chain with the standard ramped middle ring on the crank a couple times a ride, depending where I rode. I bought the RF narrow wide chain ring and no drops at all now, YMMV. This is with a standard X9 rear derailleur. A type 2 rear derailleur would make the drive line even more secure.

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    Thanks s0ul_chicken. For $30 shipped i ordered one to try. I find myself never using the large front ring on my goblin, however, I find the small ring a little small. If I like the gearing I might do the same as you by losing the FD + shifter and upgrading to a type 2 RD.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuskenraider View Post
    I recently switched to a 1x9 setup on my Guardian with no guide whatsoever, as the FD wouldn't adjust over enough to act as one. At first I dropped the chain with the standard ramped middle ring on the crank a couple times a ride, depending where I rode. I bought the RF narrow wide chain ring and no drops at all now, YMMV. This is with a standard X9 rear derailleur. A type 2 rear derailleur would make the drive line even more secure.
    Thats good to hear! I take it you wouldn't go back?

    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post
    Thanks s0ul_chicken. For $30 shipped i ordered one to try. I find myself never using the large front ring on my goblin, however, I find the small ring a little small. If I like the gearing I might do the same as you by losing the FD + shifter and upgrading to a type 2 RD.
    According to 8ikingVIIking, he used the inner chainring bolts to secure the new chainring since they are a bit longer. What color ring did you get?

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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    According to 8ikingVIIking, he used the inner chainring bolts to secure the new chainring since they are a bit longer. What color ring did you get?
    I just went with boring black.

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    I had to go green myself!

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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Thats good to hear! I take it you wouldn't go back?
    Nope, quite happy with 32T chain ring and 11-32T cassette. Enough gear range for the asphalt or any climbs here in the midwest.

  17. #17
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    I thought about a 32T, but for an extra 15 bucks I said no...lol - not sure why the 30T is cheaper, perhaps over-produced.

    The 30 will go to a 11-36, should be interesting.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post

    Jeremy, are you saying that chainring with no FD and a type 2 RD won't need a chain guide?


    Yep, that's correct!

    Jeremy
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    Quote Originally Posted by MysticRI View Post
    I'd be interested in trying this out. Do you plan to completely remove the FD? If so, isn't a chain guide needed?

    Jeremy, are you saying that chainring with no FD and a type 2 RD won't need a chain guide?
    I am running 34T WnW with no guide and my stock X5 RD and have not dropped a chain once. Lots of roots rocks and mud too.

  20. #20
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    That is the fourth testimonial I have come across on running everything stock - do you think it will hold up as the chainring wears?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    That is the fourth testimonial I have come across on running everything stock - do you think it will hold up as the chainring wears?
    I dont see why not. If not, I will upgrade to new RD and get a new WnW.
    I was gonna upgrade my RD, but I am happy with the X5.

  22. #22
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    Well, my plans for a 1x10 will be delayed due to a screwed up BB and frame... I will update as I get (hopefully) a frame replacement.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Well, my plans for a 1x10 will be delayed due to a screwed up BB and frame... I will update as I get (hopefully) a frame replacement.
    What happened?

  24. #24
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    See my other thread here.

  25. #25
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    Will that race face chain ring bolt up to the stock Guardian cranks? I'm thinking about changing the guardian to a 1x10 with Sram x9 RD and that race face chainring. After looking on the race face website I think it will bolt up to my stock cranks but I might have to use a shim
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  26. #26
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    If it is a SRAM crankset, it should.

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    It's a Sram Truvativ E400. Does the fact that it is a 3 speed crankset have anything to do with a single chain ring being bolted to it? I think it would work but just looking at it I am not sure.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    Will that race face chain ring bolt up to the stock Guardian cranks? I'm thinking about changing the guardian to a 1x10 with Sram x9 RD and that race face chainring. After looking on the race face website I think it will bolt up to my stock cranks but I might have to use a shim
    I used a Race Face ring on my Stock cranks and put them on another bike.

  29. #29
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    Don't forget to shorten your chain. I found this is the best thing I did to my 1x9 conversion on the guardian. It makes the gear changes crisper.

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    I am very interested in this.

  31. #31
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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    It's a Sram Truvativ E400. Does the fact that it is a 3 speed crankset have anything to do with a single chain ring being bolted to it? I think it would work but just looking at it I am not sure.
    Nope, you just bolt it in place of the middle ring

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    Anyone know the length of the stock bolts or if you need to order new ones for the Goblin?

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    I went ahead and ordered the green one. Got it and stuff to convert to tubeless for under $60! Looking forward to seeing how it rides and how much weight is dropped.

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Anyone know the length of the stock bolts or if you need to order new ones for the Goblin?
    According to 8ikingVIIking, use the inner chainring bolts from the small chainring as these are a bit longer than the 38T bolts.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    That is the fourth testimonial I have come across on running everything stock - do you think it will hold up as the chainring wears?
    There's a reason why SRAM spec'd a clutch-type RD for their 1x11 system. While the standard RD may work just fine, the chain will be more likely to come off; especially when you are near the largest or smallest cog (maximum cross-over) in the back and bouncing over bumps.

    I think the standard RD probably works "OK" but for how picky I am and how much I hate dropping chains, I would get a Type 2 RD.

    Jeremy
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    I plan to pick one up as soon as I find a good deal on one. I know it has been mentioned in another thread, but I can't find it. What style (length?) rear derailleur does the Goblin need? What are the advantages to upgrading (other than weight) to something beyond the X7 Type 2?

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    Other than weight, you would get a clutch on the RD, which helps keep chain tension. Obviously, this is the only way to go if you are going to run single ring like Jeremy suggested.

    My new frame is headed out today, so by the end of the week I should be back in business. YAY! Thank you Jeremy and Eric!

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    X7 is solid and if you're happy with the performance I don't see a reason to upgrade to x9 or xo. If/when I go 1x10 on my goblin, I will probably just get the x7 type 2 unless I find a good deal on a x9 type 2.

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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    X7 is solid and if you're happy with the performance I don't see a reason to upgrade to x9 or xo. If/when I go 1x10 on my goblin, I will probably just get the x7 type 2 unless I find a good deal on a x9 type 2.
    Check amazon for the x9 type 2, last I checked they were $90

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wildfifty View Post
    Don't forget to shorten your chain. I found this is the best thing I did to my 1x9 conversion on the guardian. It makes the gear changes crisper.
    How do you know what length to make the chain?
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    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    How do you know what length to make the chain?
    Generally, when the chain is on the largest cog on the back, the RD should be in about a 45 degree angle to the ground facing toward the front of the bike.

    Jeremy
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I plan to pick one up as soon as I find a good deal on one. I know it has been mentioned in another thread, but I can't find it. What style (length?) rear derailleur does the Goblin need? What are the advantages to upgrading (other than weight) to something beyond the X7 Type 2?
    I would buy the mid-cage option.

    The X7 RD should function fairly well. I personally think you get more bang for your buck with buying better shifters than RD.

    Jeremy
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I would buy the mid-cage option.

    The X7 RD should function fairly well. I personally think you get more bang for your buck with buying better shifters than RD.

    Jeremy
    Thanks. I have read the same thing on the shifters as well. Do they only sell them in pairs?

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    I would buy the mid-cage option.

    Jeremy
    Disclaimer: I know very little about bikes and pretty much only know about RDs from what I have read today.

    With that said, SRAM list both the X7 and X9 type 2 (the only 2 options in my price range) as 36t compatible on their website. I have seen other posts state that if you are running 1x10 then the short cage is the way to go. I don't know how much length difference there is between the short/med/long cages, but I would think shorter is better in this case assuming it will work.

    Thoughts?

  45. #45
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    Either the short or medium cage will work - a short cage would have a bit better ground clearance though.

  46. #46
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    I have a long cage xtr non clutch derailleur and I have yet to drop a chain.

  47. #47
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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    I have a long cage xtr non clutch derailleur and I have yet to drop a chain.
    Yep, same here, but with a mid cage x7. To be honest I think the "need" for a clutch RD is exaggerated big time

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    Good thing I didn't start tearing my bike down. Chainring is backordered until mid-october
    Last edited by jdhunt0; 09-17-2013 at 06:57 AM.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Good think I didn't start tearing my bike down. Chainring is backordered until mid-october
    Back-ordered? That figures, as all I see is the order status as "pending" since my order date. I guess I need to make a phone call!

  50. #50
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    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.
    Well, I have not had the chance to do this yet due to the fact that the chainring is back ordered at least until the first of the month. As for some of the other guys on this thread, I cannot say.

    Don't worry though, once the ring gets released, I will be doing a short write-up to it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.
    All you really have to do is get a RaceFace WnW chain ring, shorten the chain and lose the Front Der. and shifters. If you are dropping chains, either get a guide or a RD with a clutch.

  53. #53
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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by H_Bomb View Post
    can you specify in detail how you did this and what you bought, i would like to do the same? any help much appreciated.
    All you need to buy is the ring and the associated tools if you plan on doing it yourself. Its a really simple install. Just remove the crank, take off the rings, and put the new ring on in place of the big ring. The hardest part of the whole thing was taking off that stupid black link to get the chain off! Its much easier if you buy the park chain plier tool, but I cheaped out and used a needlenose

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  54. #54
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    I was on BikeBling.com today just perusing their inventory when I noticed they made a goof on the RF N/W chainring. All their chainrings were 37 bucks, with the 30T discounted to 23 dollars. As of today, they have reversed this. All chainrings are still 37 bucks, but the 30T price increased to 52 dollars!

    I am guessing someone screwed up and it was always supposed to be 15 dollars more instead of 15 dollars off? Either way, I am glad I kept the order in place even though they are back ordered. Still no word on release, but I think I can wait for a mistake like that to end up on my bike on the cheap!
    Last edited by s0ul_chicken; 09-24-2013 at 12:19 PM.

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    I'm in the same boat. I got my order in and now it listed on back order. I bet the back order is a game to get people to cancel. I said i would hold out.

  56. #56
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    Agreed - realized they sold it wrong and now trying to cover the losses. I don't mind waiting, plus after not responding (didn't need to) it finally hit the credit card. Looking forward to it eventually showing up, I am sure my riding will benefit from it.

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    I was told 2 weeks by phone when I ordered. Got an email today that said at least 6 weeks. I asked if this was a an attempt to get me to cancel my order.

  58. #58
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    Disagree on the back order, it's sold out everywhere
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    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    Disagree on the back order, it's sold out everywhere
    Jenson has the black ones in stock.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I was told 2 weeks by phone when I ordered. Got an email today that said at least 6 weeks. I asked if this was a an attempt to get me to cancel my order.
    And the response from BikeBling?

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Jenson has the black ones in stock.
    Black is no fun - gimme green for the Goblin!

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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    And the response from BikeBling?



    Black is no fun - gimme green for the Goblin!
    I guess I'm no fun



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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    And the response from BikeBling?

    I do apologize for the delay. We wonít be getting our chainrings in for at least another 6 weeks. All prices will be honored at the time of purchase. If you have any questions please feel free to contact customer service.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    I guess I'm no fun
    What I meant was, no fun for me...

    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I do apologize for the delay. We wonít be getting our chainrings in for at least another 6 weeks. All prices will be honored at the time of purchase. If you have any questions please feel free to contact customer service.
    Sounds about right, but at least they are going to honor the prices!

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    I was told 2 weeks by phone when I ordered. Got an email today that said at least 6 weeks. I asked if this was a an attempt to get me to cancel my order.
    Got the email on Wednesday saying item was backordered 6 weeks. I sent an email questioning if they were trying to get me to cancel my order at the reduced price and was told no, they were honoring the price, but would be at least 6 weeks before they had any in stock. Got an email 2 days later with a tracking number.

  65. #65
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    Yep, same here, just received a tracking number saying it would be here on the 3rd! NICE! I will be holding off on the install until Sunday as the Road Apple Rally is on Saturday.

  66. #66
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    Took all my parts off last night. Took 0.94 lbs off the bike. I will still need to add the weight of the new chainring, but for ~$25 I'm going to lose almost a pound and gain a simpler drivetrain.

  67. #67
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    For all of you who bought the 30T chain ring on bike bling, where did you get the crank shims?
    2 Hands Working Do More Than 1000 Hands Praying

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdhunt0 View Post
    Took all my parts off last night. Took 0.94 lbs off the bike. I will still need to add the weight of the new chainring, but for ~$25 I'm going to lose almost a pound and gain a simpler drivetrain.
    Nice!

    Quote Originally Posted by provin1327 View Post
    For all of you who bought the 30T chain ring on bike bling, where did you get the crank shims?
    You won't need shims as the ring has a 2mm offset. 8iking VIIking suggests using the inner chainring bolts as they are a bit longer.

  69. #69
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    Got it. This thing is practically weightless.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Going 1x10 on the cheap!-2013-10-03-11.17.01.jpg  


  70. #70
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    Do you have a black goblin? Been wanting to see what that green looks like on the bike.

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Do you have a black goblin? Been wanting to see what that green looks like on the bike.
    I sure do. I'll have it on tonight.

  72. #72
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    Sweet! Running the stock x7 RD?

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Sweet! Running the stock x7 RD?
    For now. I'll upgrade to a Type II if needed.

  74. #74
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    Cool, be sure to report on dropped chains if they do happen. I'm very curious about this set up.

  75. #75
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    I received mine last night as well, and you are right, that thing is stupid light! I will be putting mine on Saturday night after I finish the race.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Cool, be sure to report on dropped chains if they do happen. I'm very curious about this set up.
    I've been on around 20 rides with mine so far (standard x7, same chain length) and not a single dropped chain. And that's over some really rocky and rooty stuff. I went on a ride this morning on some ATV trails that were especially teeth-chattering, with lots of baby heads and small drops and not one hiccup. This thing is sweet!

    And if you DO experience chain drops, shorten your chain first and see if that helps before you drop the dough on a type 2

  77. #77
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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    I've been on around 20 rides with mine so far (standard x7, same chain length) and not a single dropped chain. And that's over some really rocky and rooty stuff. I went on a ride this morning on some ATV trails that were especially teeth-chattering, with lots of baby heads and small drops and not one hiccup. This thing is sweet!

    And if you DO experience chain drops, shorten your chain first and see if that helps before you drop the dough on a type 2
    What tooth ring did you go with? Any idea what speed you spin out at?

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    I've been on around 20 rides with mine so far (standard x7, same chain length) and not a single dropped chain. And that's over some really rocky and rooty stuff. I went on a ride this morning on some ATV trails that were especially teeth-chattering, with lots of baby heads and small drops and not one hiccup. This thing is sweet!

    And if you DO experience chain drops, shorten your chain first and see if that helps before you drop the dough on a type 2
    Good to know! I figured you would almost certainly have to shorten the chain (which I plan to do) to keep it from dropping.

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    What tooth ring did you go with? Any idea what speed you spin out at?
    30T here - I will find out for Sundays ride where I top out at.

  79. #79
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    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-tk4y.jpg

    I have only ridden around the block once, but works so far. No noise. The chain is still the stock length. I'm not sure if it could go shorter or not.

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-mp93.jpg

    Going 1x10 on the cheap!-8yun.jpg

  80. #80
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    The green looks great! How many teeth on the ring?

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    The green looks great! How many teeth on the ring?
    Thanks. I went with the 30T.

  82. #82
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    Looks great jd! It looks like (if you wanted to) you could take out about three links and be ok. In the large cog, the lower jockey wheel on the rear derailleur could go up to a 45 degree angle toward the chainstay. Going from a 38 to a 30 means you could lose that much chain to keep things nice and tight.

    Again, looks awesome! I have the green chainring as well, but now I am on a silver frame vs. my other black one, so I am not too sure how the green will turn out.

  83. #83
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    Don't I have to take them out in pairs? Do I just drive the pin out with a hammer and punch like any other chain to remove a link? I'm new to bikes, I'm used to industrial equipment and motorcycles.

  84. #84
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    I would seriously consider getting a chain tool, as they are rather cheap and MUCH easier to use, and you wouldn't have to worry about damaging the chain. I bought a expensive chain tool at 15 bucks, so they aren't very high dollar. If you are unsure on how to do it, I would suggest going to a bike shop and have them do it, or at least show you how to break a chain. Another option is leave it as is, just like 8iking VIIking did as he has not had any issues with the chain at the stock length.

    Either way, it would be a good idea to at least carry a chain tool for your rides just so you can do a repair if your chain breaks on the trail.

    A "link" of chain is actually three pieces - a female end, male middle, female end. I said three links earlier, but it would be more like two to start with.

  85. #85
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    Here is an image of a chain link


    Name:  Copy of 50-6913-NCL-TOP.jpg
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  86. #86
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    Yea I would definitely recommend a chain break tool. I just use the one on my multi tool.

    How was the install? Pretty straight forward? I've never replaced chain rings before.

  87. #87
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    I had never changed one before either and I had no problems. Hardest part was getting the black link apart on the chain.

  88. #88
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    Those quick links are a pain in the arse to remove for the first time. Once I got mine off, I assembled and disassembled the chain quite a few times to get it to break in and get easier to remove.

    All you should have to do trevor is remove the cranks, and take off the chainring bolts and swap the chainrings. Use the inner chainring bolts as they are a bit longer, and it should be smooth sailing.

    EDIT: I forgot to post what two links of chain look like jd, here you go.

    Name:  untitled.JPG
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  89. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    EDIT: I forgot to post what two links of chain look like jd, here you go.

    Name:  untitled.JPG
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    Technically, that's 2.5 links.

    Jeremy
    Please Note: I no longer work for Airborne. If you have an Airborne question or problem please contact them directly.

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by s0ul_chicken View Post
    Yep, you hit the nail on the head. I have had my Goblin only a month now, but I am coming off a 2x7 setup on my Giant that I rode for two years and wondering if that has something to do with it. Perhaps just not used to the new gearing??
    Maybe being captain obvious here, why not set up the new bike with the same chain ring/cassette gearing your Giant had? Easy-peasy and you'll know right away if that's it. Getting used to new gearing that does not feel right is a tough thing to do...
    Remember when we were kids and our Mom's said we could not play in the mud? I'm making up for it now!!

  91. #91
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    Rode for about 8 miles today. I had zero issues, but the trail was relatively smooth. I bought a chain tool and took a link out when I got home. Looks like it is supposed to now. Total weight loss was 401g if anyone is curious.

  92. #92
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    Good to hear. Did you spin out at all? Do you know how fast you got up to?

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    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Good to hear. Did you spin out at all? Do you know how fast you got up to?
    Not sure what you mean? I'm a newbie. No idea how fast I got up to. I could run in the 12t gear on flat sections. If I were to do it over I would get the 32t, however, the 30t was $15 less when I ordered mine.

  94. #94
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    Spin out meaning running out of gear on flat surface or a descent where you're pedaling as fast as you can but not going any faster (if that makes sense). I've been trying to decide between the 30t and 32t and just can't make up my mind. I'd like the easy gear for climbing with the 30t for sure. Guess I need to do more gear calculations.

    By 12t do you mean the 11t cog? That's the smallest one on the back. Were you easily pedaling that gear on flat surface?

  95. #95
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    My bike has a 12-36 cassette, not the 11-36 the specs call for. Not sure why. Is mine the only one like this?

    Using your definition, I never spun out. But like I said, I'm new to biking. I could easily see someone with more experience running out of gear with the 30t.

  96. #96
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    Re: Going 1x10 on the cheap!

    I would say if you're debating on going between the 30t and 32t, go with the 30t. Unless you are riding a lot of fire roads or VERY flat terrain, you'll want lower gearing.

    Think about it this way....do you use your 3 highest gears more or your 3 lowest gears? If you use your 3 lowest gears more, go with the 30t

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyFlyer View Post
    Technically, that's 2.5 links.

    Jeremy
    Yep, my bad - I need to learn to count!

    Quote Originally Posted by trevor_b View Post
    Spin out meaning running out of gear on flat surface or a descent where you're pedaling as fast as you can but not going any faster (if that makes sense). I've been trying to decide between the 30t and 32t and just can't make up my mind. I'd like the easy gear for climbing with the 30t for sure. Guess I need to do more gear calculations.

    By 12t do you mean the 11t cog? That's the smallest one on the back. Were you easily pedaling that gear on flat surface?
    I lost about 5mph switching to a 30T. Yesterdays race on the downhill (asphalt) with the 2x10 I hit 29.6mph, today at the same section with the 30T I topped out at 24.3mph. I can't call it consistent as circumstances under the test are not the same, but I can say that I was spinning out on the 30T. The pace on the 2x10, if I had the legs, I could have spun faster.

    Quote Originally Posted by ProfGumby View Post
    Maybe being captain obvious here, why not set up the new bike with the same chain ring/cassette gearing your Giant had? Easy-peasy and you'll know right away if that's it. Getting used to new gearing that does not feel right is a tough thing to do...
    Well, for one, budget. Changing a chainring made the most sense to me vs. trying a new cassette. Hard to pass up an easy change for 23 dollars, and perhaps a good chance to fine tune it - makes me want to try out other tooth options in the future. I also removed two links from the chain to help out until I move to an upgraded RD.


    RF1 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RF2 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr


    RF3 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr

    The Doberman and Poodle could care less...


    RF4 by s0ul_chicken, on Flickr
    Last edited by s0ul_chicken; 10-06-2013 at 05:12 PM.

  98. #98
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    Looks good on the silver frame too! Thanks for the update.

  99. #99
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    Thanks trevor! I only did the road section yesterday - no trail time as I was very sore after Saturdays race. I will be headed out tonight after work to see how it performs on the trail. There are four or five sections that will make your teeth chatter, so it will be a great test for the chainring.

  100. #100
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    Could someone with a black goblin take a look at their cassette and let me know if it is a 11-36 or 12-36 please?

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