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  1. #1
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    Derailleur click?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X1iR...e_gdata_player

    It shifts fine, but I'm wondering what the noise is and is it increasing wear? (Ignore the awesome wall color/curtains)

    Thanks

  2. #2
    TXTony
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    Does it do it in every gear...or only on the top like you had it in the video..sounds like chain drag..are you sure the hanger is not out of alignment..

  3. #3
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    It appears to do it in at least the largest 4 cogs. I aligned the hanger last weekend and haven't knocked it since. Maybe I suck at using the DAG-2?

  4. #4
    TXTony
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    Might want to check it again..do not think its a issue of sucking using the tool..it could be several things just need to start narrowing them done...could be hanger..could be the rear derailleur still needs a little tweaking with the cable adjuster..just went through the same thing with my cross bike...ended up being the cable...but had to check everything and narrow it down..

  5. #5
    TXTony
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    The more I watch that it seems to be a cable tension issue...kind of hard diagnosing from a video as several things can cause that but just throwing out some ideas..

  6. #6
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    I'll check it again tonight or tomorrow morning and report back.

  7. #7
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    Alright, I aligned the hanger as it was of a tad off vertically (I reread park tools guide so I'm confident it's aligned well).

    I then adjusted the RD, all points of adjustment and its shifting nicely.

    Now I only get that click on the big big combo only that I can tell. Any ideas?

  8. #8
    TXTony
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    Check the limit screw...or could be big ring to big ring combo may be causing a little cross chaining which really should not be that big a issue with a 2x10 set up

  9. #9
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    You're saying the low limit screw could be too tight/restricting?

  10. #10
    TXTony
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    Could be..normally the limit screws really have nothing to do that much with derailleur adjustment..they just keep it from going to far left or right and throwing the chain off...put it in the little chain ring up front and the big in back and see it it is still doing it..and if you have not already done it..clean and lube it back there..I know that sounds simple but you would be surprised how many creaks go away after you clean and lube..and lube the derailleur also.

  11. #11
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    It doesn't click in the small big combo.

    Should the derailleur be this "stretched out" when in the big big combo?



    It still has spring to it if you manually move it forward.

  12. #12
    TXTony
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    No. That does not look right at all. Did you remove the cable when you aligned your hanger. Looks like a lot if tension going on back there.

  13. #13
    TXTony
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    I just checked mine. It does get stretched but does not look like it gets stretched out like that much. I never run that gear combo but did notice there is a fair amount of cross chaining when it is up there on big and big. Usually in those bigger cogs in back you want to be on that smaller cog up front. The only time I ever seen a der get skewed out of whack is when the chain is to short. I know that is not your issue.

  14. #14
    TXTony
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    I think that gear combo is taking the chain to its limit. Basically it is as tight as it can get and us pulling the der or stretching it out like that. It really is not designed per say to be run in that gear combo. Usually you use your larger gears in back in combo with the smaller one up front. Use the large ring up front with the smaller ones in back. Prevents cross chaining. Where your chain gets out of alignment with the gears your running. You want to run your gears and attempt to keep the chain as straight as you can from from to rear. Once you get some cross chasing you start hearing the grinding of the chain rubbing on the front der. Right now you have your chain stretched out to its max. Riding it like that may cause it to break.

  15. #15
    TXTony
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    Forgive the grammar. Stupid IPhone.

  16. #16
    TXTony
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  17. #17
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    I never removed the cable when aligning the hanger or doing the RD adjustments.

    I thought cross chaining wasn't a big issue on a 2x10 setup and it was ok to be in the big big combo (not the small small combo due to a lot of chain slack)?

  18. #18
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    I am relatively new to mountain biking and this forum, but I got my Goblin over the weekend, I had the same clicking noise when trying to tune the RD. Turns out it was a cable tension issue (in my case the RD cable was too tight).

    At first I thought cables had to be piano-wire tight but turns out I needed them much looser. Fixed the problem for me

  19. #19
    TXTony
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    Think it is...I checked mine last night and pretty much looked like it can produce some cross chaining..my rear der was stretched out which is normal in that gear combo but as I never run it in that combo really never paid attention..on the other bike I am running a 2x10 I do not have that issue with the drive train but it is a totally different bike..full suspension and different geo and chain stays..on my cross bike which is a 2x10 I checked as well and it really has some cross chaining going on in that gear combo..It has been a long time since I have had a bike on the big gear combo in front and rear so really never have paid attention to it.

    I think if it is shifting good in the proper gear combos your good to to go..those(big to big) gear combos pretty much take your chain to their limit length wise..so it is as stretched as it can get..thus putting a lot of torque on your rear der causing it to stretch out like that...usually it is just the top 2 maybe three gears on the back with the big chain ring up front where you start seeing it becoming and issue. Pretty much the opposite of small to small...all the slack has been pulled out and now it is tight as heck..another thing you could consider if you are wanting to ride in a gear combo like that maybe down the road putting bigger chain rings on up front...I have yet to ride my Goblin on the small chain ring up front..have not found a need for it..I have event thought of ditching the second ring and going 1x10 on it,,

  20. #20
    TXTony
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    Yeah proper cable tension is important for shifting...usually the picture you see above is not caused by cable tension but chain length issues..your chain and cassette is designed to be run in certain gear combos for optimal performance and when you start riding in combos that take that combo to the limit( cross chaining) as we are talking about you start hearing chain rubbing and clicking sounds going on back there...

  21. #21
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    Re: Derailleur click?

    When I've previously undone the cable at the RD and connected it back I would just use my fingers to pull the cable snug then tighten the bolt.

    How could I check if the tension is too tight? Would I have to redo all adjustments or just indexing?

    It could be cross chaining but why would it just recently start making that clicking noise?

    Tony, are you a beast of a climber? Lol. I rarely go into the small ring up front but a lot of the time I'm in the big big combo for climbs (especially rocky technical climbs). I've certainly thought about going 1x10 in the future as well.

  22. #22
    TXTony
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    Nah don't think I am a beast more like practice...I ride my 35 pound All Mountain Bike a lot and after getting fit enough to climb with that thing when I get on the Goblin I feel like I have switched over to a high performance race machine and the more you ride you usually end up finding the sweet spot(gears) you like and pretty much stick with them and hardly use the other gears until conditions dictate...maybe I am the odd ball but imagine there are a lot of other riders like that..and usually all it takes is is pulling the cable back into place with your hand tightening it up..sometimes I have had to use pliers just to keep it from slipping back as I tightened it..not sure why it has started now unless it is cable stretch from the cable wearing in as it was new..may just need to keep tweaking the cable tension until you get the desired result..I have had some bikes where it only took a few minutes to get everything tweaked and some others where it was a royal pain to get tweaked right..

    I just went through this similar situation with my cross bike...replaced the hanger..still made awful noise and skipped(ghost shifted) a lot..kept tuning it and it would only stay tuned for about 10 miles..I knew it was a problem with the cable tension but could not nail to down even removing the cable form the rd and adjusting it there did not solve the problem..long story short ended up replacing the entire cable and problem solved..it was a brand new bike as well..

  23. #23
    Airborne Product Dude
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    Trevor, check your email!

    Thanks,

    Jeremy
    Airborne Dude.

  24. #24
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    Just a heads up, i had a similar issue and it was driving me nuts. It turned out to be a loose rear hub axle, mine was finger loose. I know the Goblin has sealed bearings and if you remove the rear wheel and wiggle the dust caps there should be no play. Basically the rear hub consists of two sealed bearings and two dustcaps attached by a threaded rod. You want to check the drive side cap and make sure it is snug. If not you will need two metric allen keys, one to hold the non drive side and one to tighten the cap inside the freehub body. This tightened up my drivetrain and it has been shifting like a champ. Good luck

    Also do not undo the non drive side cap as it is factory set only tighten the drive side while holding the other
    Last edited by Greenkeep; 04-16-2013 at 04:16 PM.

  25. #25
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    Ohh to explain things a little better, what happens is the out of true travel of the cassette throws things off. It will intermittently try to catch the upper adjacent cog and return to the original gear. It does have a slight learning curve to dial in but once you get the SRAM 2x10 right it will be your best friend with nice crisp positive shifting. Definitely a wise choice from Airborne when speccing the bike.

    @ trevor_b

    looking at your pic please check out your b tension screw. SRAM reccomends 6mm between upper pulley and largest cog with small chainring up front
    Last edited by Greenkeep; 04-16-2013 at 07:43 PM.

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