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  1. #201
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    How have this Fork holding up so far? For under $300 worth it?
    Mine is definitely holding up well. Have had it for 3 years and have had zero issues. Well, I take that back, the remote lockout broke the first time I tried using it. Called xfusion and had them send me the parts to just convert to a non-remote lockout, but the parts dont fit.

    Other than that it works great and havent even rebuilt it yet. So for the price, its hard to beat. Customer service has been excellent when i have dealt with them.

  2. #202
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    Bike~less

  3. #203
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    I still love mine. Zero issues over two years now and I haven't rebuilt or replaced seals yet.

  4. #204
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    Is there any difference between the 2014 & 2015 Model for the same Price? I saw a 2015 model listed on PinkBike & the 2014 listed on eBay.

    P.S Anyway to determined if your Fork is authentic / genuine ? First time buying stuff off of eBay.
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  5. #205
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    I "think" it is just the decal that is different. The pic I posted of mine is 2012 & 13 then the decal changed to what you see now.
    I used EBay when I got mine 299 shipped. Just make sure the steerer tube is uncut. I have never read about fake XFusion products being sold... if the seller has a good rep I say go for it.
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  6. #206
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    I hope it is as good as people say, I place an order on the 2014 Slide. Crossing my finger for no issue.

    Do you guys happen to know that MAX Tire width & rotor size for the 2014 Slide?

    Thanks.
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  7. #207
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    The maximum rotor size is 180 mm which is plenty enough too stop my 250 lbs, As for the maximum tire size I have a 2.2 on mine and there is plenty of room for more as the picture shows.
    And I am VERY pleased with mine,
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X-Fusion Slide RL2-wtb-tire.jpg  


  8. #208
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    I too run 180mm rotor (215lbs rider) & Purgatory 2.3 Grid front tire, looks ^^^^ about the same width as above.
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  9. #209
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    I have mine set up with 30% sag and also set at 120 mm travel. It was easy to adjust the travel and you don't need the damper tool if the damper nut is 13 mm. The tool that XFusion sells won't fit. Just lock out the damper when reassembling.

  10. #210
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    Recently bought a Slide on-line from Niagara Cycle and was surprised to find a 2013 manual inside. No mention at all on their website that it was not a current model. My bad for not asking the question, although every other website calls out older models. That's over and done so now on to the fork:

    This is an upgrade from a RockShox XC32 coil fork on my 2012 Spec Carve, and it's easy to feel the immediate difference! I'm still dialing in the right pressure after two rides. I set the psi as recommended and found it extremely stiff which seems to be what others report. I dropped it down 5 psi on ride #2 and it's still a little stiff. Will try a little less tonight.

    A few things I'm concerned about:

    1. There is quite a bit of stiction when I start out. When I say quite a bit, I mean it feels like the fork is locked-out. Once I push down hard on the bars it frees up.
    2. The stanchions seem to have a fine haze of oil on them.
    3. The fork whistles under compression. Like a whistling booger!
    4. The lock out moves pretty freely. Over the course of my last ride I noticed that I was getting rattled pretty hard. That's when I noticed the lockout was half-way around. Tried to tighten the allen screw, but it was completely tight.

    I guess I'm concerned that after sitting in a warehouse for 2+ years the lube on the seals may have dried out, causing problems 1-3. Not sure about problem 4.

    Thoughts?

  11. #211
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    The Slide is adjustable from 80mm, 100mm & 120mm so the exposed stanchion is the entire travel needed for 120mm setting pluse the topend. The internal setting or pin controls the amount of travel upward.
    What is your's set to?
    When mine hits hard I do hear it, but no whistle noise?
    Lubed seals and stanchions is a good thing..just not too much and wipe done after every ride..the haze is proly packing protection 'spray' = wipe it clean.
    Call Xfusion about the lockout adjuster, mine doesn't do that...
    Post up a pic!!!
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  12. #212
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    X-Fusion Slide RL2-img_2538.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Burt4x4 View Post
    The Slide is adjustable from 80mm, 100mm & 120mm so the exposed stanchion is the entire travel needed for 120mm setting pluse the topend. The internal setting or pin controls the amount of travel upward.
    What is your's set to?
    When mine hits hard I do hear it, but no whistle noise?
    Lubed seals and stanchions is a good thing..just not too much and wipe done after every ride..the haze is proly packing protection 'spray' = wipe it clean.
    Call Xfusion about the lockout adjuster, mine doesn't do that...
    Post up a pic!!!
    RIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
    Here's a pic! The white doesn't match all that well with the bike, but I have some ideas!

    Mine is set at 100 which is where I wanted it. X-Fusion support confirmed that my fork is a 2014. I rode last night, and I really enjoyed how the shock is performing, but I'm still need to dial down the psi a bit. The lockout adjuster did start to migrate again. It clicks, but it moves too easily. I'll contact support about that.

    Thanks!

  13. #213
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    X-Fusion CS said the lock-out adjuster shouldn't be moving so freely. They suggest that I send it in for inspection/repair. Not happy about that.

  14. #214
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    Can someone post a pic of their RL2 at 120mm of travel please? Just ordered a hardtail with it set to 120mm and now I'm wondering, with the extra 15-20mm of stanchion exposed, what that looks like/rides like. Has anyone gone back to 100mm from 120mm because it made the front end too squirly? The bike has a 5.5" headtube so I have a feeling this may be an issue but I'll give it a chance.
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  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    Can someone post a pic of their RL2 at 120mm of travel please? Just ordered a hardtail with it set to 120mm and now I'm wondering, with the extra 15-20mm of stanchion exposed, what that looks like/rides like. Has anyone gone back to 100mm from 120mm because it made the front end too squirly? The bike has a 5.5" headtube so I have a feeling this may be an issue but I'll give it a chance.
    I have mine set at 120 mm. My bike came with a Suntour XCM 100 mm fork with 46 mm offset. The X-Fusion Slide RL2 has 51 mm offset. I also run mine with 30% sag. There is not a whole lot of difference in the way the bike turns between the two forks, but there is a ton of difference in the way it rides. I have never tried the Slide at 100 mm of travel. The first thing I did when I got the fork was changed the travel to 120 mm before I even put it on my bike. I believe my fork is a 2015 model. I weigh around 250# with gear and I am extremely pleased with the fork.

    I did not need the RL Damper tool as it would not fit. It seems that they changed the damper. My damper nut is 13mm not 11 mm as shown om the video. I just locked out the damper when re-assembling the fork after the travel change. Also the travel adjust rod is different than what is shown on the video and it is easier to change than what the video shows from X-Fusion's website.

    Here is a couple of pics. The first is my bike from today's ride in which you will be able to see how much of the stanchion tubes are exposed.

    The second pic is the travel adjustment rod from when I was changing the travel.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails X-Fusion Slide RL2-9-12-2015.jpg  

    X-Fusion Slide RL2-slide-internals.jpg  


  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    I have mine set at 120 mm. My bike came with a Suntour XCM 100 mm fork with 46 mm offset. The X-Fusion Slide RL2 has 51 mm offset. I also run mine with 30% sag. There is not a whole lot of difference in the way the bike turns between the two forks, but there is a ton of difference in the way it rides. I have never tried the Slide at 100 mm of travel. The first thing I did when I got the fork was changed the travel to 120 mm before I even put it on my bike. I believe my fork is a 2015 model. I weigh around 250# with gear and I am extremely pleased with the fork.

    I did not need the RL Damper tool as it would not fit. It seems that they changed the damper. My damper nut is 13mm not 11 mm as shown om the video. I just locked out the damper when re-assembling the fork after the travel change. Also the travel adjust rod is different than what is shown on the video and it is easier to change than what the video shows from X-Fusion's website.

    Here is a couple of pics. The first is my bike from today's ride in which you will be able to see how much of the stanchion tubes are exposed.

    The second pic is the travel adjustment rod from when I was changing the travel.
    What Pedal are those and How is it.
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  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    I have mine set at 120 mm. My bike came with a Suntour XCM 100 mm fork with 46 mm offset. The X-Fusion Slide RL2 has 51 mm offset. I also run mine with 30% sag. There is not a whole lot of difference in the way the bike turns between the two forks, but there is a ton of difference in the way it rides. I have never tried the Slide at 100 mm of travel. The first thing I did when I got the fork was changed the travel to 120 mm before I even put it on my bike. I believe my fork is a 2015 model. I weigh around 250# with gear and I am extremely pleased with the fork.

    I did not need the RL Damper tool as it would not fit. It seems that they changed the damper. My damper nut is 13mm not 11 mm as shown om the video. I just locked out the damper when re-assembling the fork after the travel change. Also the travel adjust rod is different than what is shown on the video and it is easier to change than what the video shows from X-Fusion's website.

    Here is a couple of pics. The first is my bike from today's ride in which you will be able to see how much of the stanchion tubes are exposed.

    The second pic is the travel adjustment rod from when I was changing the travel.
    Great info and thanks for the pic. In my mind I was picturing a 140-looking hardtail or something. Not bad at all!

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  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    What Pedal are those and How is it.
    They are Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals. I just got them and this was my first ride today. They are amazing., I just had some cheap shoes on and my feet stuck like they were glued. They have two bushings and four sealed cartridge bearings per pair and roll really smooth. I ordered them Sunday night and had them on Wednesday from Chain Reaction Cycles. This was my first time to order from them and I was shocked at how fast they got here. Nukeproof Electron Evo Pedals | Chain Reaction Cycles

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arebee View Post

    A few things I'm concerned about:

    1. There is quite a bit of stiction when I start out. When I say quite a bit, I mean it feels like the fork is locked-out. Once I push down hard on the bars it frees up.
    2. The stanchions seem to have a fine haze of oil on them.
    3. The fork whistles under compression. Like a whistling booger!
    4. The lock out moves pretty freely. Over the course of my last ride I noticed that I was getting rattled pretty hard. That's when I noticed the lockout was half-way around. Tried to tighten the allen screw, but it was completely tight.

    I guess I'm concerned that after sitting in a warehouse for 2+ years the lube on the seals may have dried out, causing problems 1-3. Not sure about problem 4.

    Thoughts?
    UPDATE:

    I had a MTB weekend vacation planned, so I held off on sending in my shock for inspection. I rode for three days in some of the rootiest, rockiest, filing rattling terrain in Southeast Mass and the lock-out adjustment never moved once. Happy to see that.

    Also, after reading a lot here about rebound adjustment, I dialed it back from FULL SLOW, (which was how it was delivered), to half-way and then tweaked a couple clicks from there. Half-way through my ride last night, I noticed that the "whistling booger" noise was gone! I think I have it where I want it now. It still only has about 10 rides on it, so I'll keep an eye on it.

  20. #220
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    How does the Slide compare with the Recon Silver? Would it be an upgrade over the Recon?

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by V8Interceptor View Post
    How does the Slide compare with the Recon Silver? Would it be an upgrade over the Recon?
    I have a Recon gold on my other bike and I like the Slide better. Yes, I would say it is an upgrade to a Silver. Aluminum stanchions on the Slide should make it a bit lighter.

  22. #222
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    Need a little help, I think I bought the wrong disc brake adapter. I'm trying to transfer my old Elixir R disc brake to the new bike I'm building w/ the Slide 29. Can someone link me to the correct adapter for 180 front rotor ?

    Thanks
    Bike~less

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    Need a little help, I think I bought the wrong disc brake adapter. I'm trying to transfer my old Elixir R disc brake to the new bike I'm building w/ the Slide 29. Can someone link me to the correct adapter for 180 front rotor ?

    Thanks
    It should be this one. Avid 20mm 160 to 180 Disc Brake Adapter | eBay
    . You need a 160 to 180 post mount adapter.

  24. #224
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    http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-F18...iper-74mm-Fork

    I have this one. I also ordered the wrong one the first time

  25. #225
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    Thanks, Does anyone happen to remember how many clicks there are in the rebound? Like from slow to fast / vice-versa?
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  26. #226
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    Uh, I'm not sure on that. Easy enough to count yourself. Just count how many clicks from where you are now to all the way to slow or fast and write that down so you remember where you were. Then just start and count all the way from slow to fast

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  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    Thanks, Does anyone happen to remember how many clicks there are in the rebound? Like from slow to fast / vice-versa?
    I'm pretty sure it was 30.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    It should be this one. Avid 20mm 160 to 180 Disc Brake Adapter | eBay
    . You need a 160 to 180 post mount adapter.
    The adapter you link came w/ tiny O-Rings, Do you happen to know what it is use for or where Do I install it?
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  29. #229
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    I don't see any rubber o-rings in the picture. Are you talking about the CPS washers?

    X-Fusion Slide RL2-avid-adapter.jpg

    Here is the link for the setup guide from Sram/Avid . You may or may not need them depending on you actual caliper.

    https://sram-cdn-pull-zone-gsdesign....r_mounting.pdf

    Can you post a picture of the o-rings?
    Last edited by huckleberry hound; 10-29-2015 at 07:04 PM.

  30. #230
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    FML ! I just found out my Rotor is 185mm. God damn

    Anyway, Could some of you guys check something for me? squeeze the front brake than try to move the bike forward & backward, does the Fork makes a little clunk sound? Make sure the wheels aren't rolling.

    One more thing, Can the 15QR Tru-Axle be adjusted because I have 0 or very little friction at 90 degree w/ the lever.

    Many Thanks
    Bike~less

  31. #231
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    That sounds like it is more likely to be a headset issue/insufficiently tightened top cap/stem than a fork issue. But difficult to tell from a distance....

    Use an allen key to loosen the lever after you have it tight. Remove it and reposition it where you want it. Re-bolt it.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by NEET View Post
    FML ! I just found out my Rotor is 185mm. God damn

    Anyway, Could some of you guys check something for me? squeeze the front brake than try to move the bike forward & backward, does the Fork makes a little clunk sound? Make sure the wheels aren't rolling.

    One more thing, Can the 15QR Tru-Axle be adjusted because I have 0 or very little friction at 90 degree w/ the lever.

    Many Thanks
    No clunk here and I have mine set at 120mm. As far as your rotor goes you *may* be able to spacer that out in a pinch but I'm not sure how the pads are going to line up with the rotor.
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  33. #233
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    Deleted.
    Last edited by NEET; 11-09-2015 at 07:34 PM.
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  34. #234
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    X-Fusion Slide RL2

    After several months of riding on a ’15 Slide RL2 I have to say I'm pretty impressed overall. I've ridden Rebas and Fox forks and this is a darn good fork. There's not much adjustment, just rebound and open/lockout but I like that. This fork also has the least stiction of any fork I've ever had and the stiffness (15mm t/a) is really good for a 32mm stancioned fork. It's a bit heavier than my Rebas but on par with a Fox 32 but it offers a really plush ride, akin to a Reba. XFusion touts that all componentry is metal and this is probably why it's slightly heavier than a Reba. Fwiw, this XFusion reminds me of the older Dual Motion Rebas with upper and lower independent air, although this fork has a single air port up top.

    The fork lowers also have a slight 'spine' running up the front of them from top to bottom, which I presume imparts stiffness to the fork. I have yet to service the fork but it looks pretty straightforward from videos I've seen. The only critiques I have are the graphics, and a slight loss of pressure after inverting the fork overnight. The lowers are way too heavy in the graphics dept for my tastes as I prefer a slightly more minimalist look. I left my bike inverted overnight to see if the fork would feel any different the next day. My Rebas always felt a little more plush when I did this. Well, the XFusion lost about 15psi overnight so I'm keeping an eye on it. Possibly a seal issue.
    Last edited by MTBeing; 01-29-2016 at 02:33 PM.
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  35. #235
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    No need to invert overnight, I just invert it for about thirty seconds before I ride to make sure that the foam rings have plenty of oil in them. I can tell a difference in just doing this.

    I too like the set and forget nature of this fork and have been extremely pleased with mine.

  36. #236
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    Quote Originally Posted by huckleberry hound View Post
    No need to invert overnight, I just invert it for about thirty seconds before I ride to make sure that the foam rings have plenty of oil in them. I can tell a difference in just doing this.

    I too like the set and forget nature of this fork and have been extremely pleased with mine.
    Thanks for the advice. I'll try this tomorrow.

    update: Yep, works good!
    Last edited by MTBeing; 01-09-2016 at 05:10 PM.
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  37. #237
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    Any news on the damper upgrade for the Slide 29?
    Bike~less

  38. #238
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    Old thread bump for advice.
    I bought a very gently used 2012 Slide and just installed it. Measuring from the middle of the TA to the crown race I get 525mm. According to everything I've read, this means it's set to 120mm, which is what the seller tells me.
    With no air in the fork, I can only compress the ziptie 98mm up the leg, leaving about 35-37mm of exposed upper stanchion. It's a pretty solid 'bottom-out'.
    I suspect too much oil in the damper, based on other threads here.
    Does that sound right? Or is there something else I should try before I delve into this fork.

    FWIW, the fork is great and works well and the 100-ish mm of travel I do get is really really nice.

  39. #239
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARandomBiker View Post
    Old thread bump for advice.
    I bought a very gently used 2012 Slide and just installed it. Measuring from the middle of the TA to the crown race I get 525mm. According to everything I've read, this means it's set to 120mm, which is what the seller tells me.
    With no air in the fork, I can only compress the ziptie 98mm up the leg, leaving about 35-37mm of exposed upper stanchion. It's a pretty solid 'bottom-out'.
    I suspect too much oil in the damper, based on other threads here.
    Does that sound right? Or is there something else I should try before I delve into this fork.

    FWIW, the fork is great and works well and the 100-ish mm of travel I do get is really really nice.
    That's a weird thing about X Fusion forks. Exposed stancion is not travel. Subtract an inch. My experience.

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  40. #240
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARandomBiker View Post
    Old thread bump for advice.
    I bought a very gently used 2012 Slide and just installed it. Measuring from the middle of the TA to the crown race I get 525mm. According to everything I've read, this means it's set to 120mm, which is what the seller tells me.
    With no air in the fork, I can only compress the ziptie 98mm up the leg, leaving about 35-37mm of exposed upper stanchion. It's a pretty solid 'bottom-out'.
    I suspect too much oil in the damper, based on other threads here.
    Does that sound right? Or is there something else I should try before I delve into this fork.

    FWIW, the fork is great and works well and the 100-ish mm of travel I do get is really really nice.
    Either too much oil in the damper or too much in the lowers. I'd start by pulling the lower bolts and draining the legs. Actually, given that it's used, I'd just pull the lowers and service it while checking the damper rod actuation while it's apart.

  41. #241
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    OK, I dropped the lowers.
    I'll skip all the measurements and 'thinking' I did, but am pretty sure that the damper is overfilled.
    Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the cap off.
    My single attempt to open the cap without the 6-point ground-flat socket was dangerously close to damaging the hex flats. I called some shops, but no one has a socket that big. Gonna have to think about this one for a while.

    Thanks everyone for the advice!

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARandomBiker View Post
    OK, I dropped the lowers.
    I'll skip all the measurements and 'thinking' I did, but am pretty sure that the damper is overfilled.
    Unfortunately, I can't seem to get the cap off.
    My single attempt to open the cap without the 6-point ground-flat socket was dangerously close to damaging the hex flats. I called some shops, but no one has a socket that big. Gonna have to think about this one for a while.

    Thanks everyone for the advice!
    If you have the means to grind a socket flat, you should be able to buy one at any Sears/Home Depot/Lowes/auto parts store.

  43. #243
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    I got the oil thing sorted out. Have full stroke on the damper side.

    One thing I apparently overlooked was this:
    X-Fusion Slide RL2-fork-bumper.jpg
    Why is this here? Obviously its a bottom-out bumper, but it limits me to about 112mm travel.
    Pressurizing the air spring with no lowers, I measured from the upper baseplate to the upper rim of the bumper. It's definitely stopping me from getting the full 120. If I literally just cut it off, I'd have like 130ish travel, and I'd bottom out on the plastic shim under the cone bumper, so that's probably not a great idea.

    Advice??
    "just leave it" is not the answer I'm satisfied with just yet.

  44. #244
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    My lockout on my '15 Slide RL2 29 went south a couple days ago. Tried to call X-Fusion Service today but I suspect they're all at Interbike right now. Just got a voicemail message no matter who I tried to connect to.
    Please donate to IMBA or your local IMBA chapter. It's trail karma.

  45. #245
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    Is this fork a POS? I bought one because I needed 80mm, 1-1/8 straight steerer and 15mm x100mm axle. There are not many choices. It came with 120mm travel so I went to reset it to 80mm. 1st - they completely redesign the insides, the videos are not up to date anymore. I bought the special tool and it don't fit with the redesign.

    When I went to bleed out the air, it sprayed pink oil foam all over the place, yuk.

    Anyways I snapped off the end of the damper rod. I wasn't even using much force (less than 5nm) You cannot get a replacement rod, you need to buy the entire damper assembly.
    So I sent it to the factory repair shop to get it fixed. I'm not saving much money or headache with this fork.

    Why the fxxk would they make the rod out of butter-grade aluminum??? - plain old steel would be far better and cheaper. What good is a light fork when its on a UPS truck???

    I waited weeks for Niagara Cycles to ship it, now I'm waiting weeks for the repair. NC has good prices but slow service.

    I wish Fox supplied the fork with the configuration I need. They have all the pieces but don't get them assembled that way. I guess I could buy two Fox forks and make one out of the pair I've taken Fox forks apart they are made with solid materials.

    Or I could have got a MPR Slope exactly the way I needed (I found them after I order the X-Fusion)

  46. #246
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    Quote Originally Posted by jvaliensi View Post
    Is this fork a POS? I bought one because I needed 80mm, 1-1/8 straight steerer and 15mm x100mm axle. There are not many choices. It came with 120mm travel so I went to reset it to 80mm. 1st - they completely redesign the insides, the videos are not up to date anymore. I bought the special tool and it don't fit with the redesign.

    When I went to bleed out the air, it sprayed pink oil foam all over the place, yuk.

    Anyways I snapped off the end of the damper rod. I wasn't even using much force (less than 5nm) You cannot get a replacement rod, you need to buy the entire damper assembly.
    So I sent it to the factory repair shop to get it fixed. I'm not saving much money or headache with this fork.

    Why the fxxk would they make the rod out of butter-grade aluminum??? - plain old steel would be far better and cheaper. What good is a light fork when its on a UPS truck???

    I waited weeks for Niagara Cycles to ship it, now I'm waiting weeks for the repair. NC has good prices but slow service.

    I wish Fox supplied the fork with the configuration I need. They have all the pieces but don't get them assembled that way. I guess I could buy two Fox forks and make one out of the pair I've taken Fox forks apart they are made with solid materials.

    Or I could have got a MPR Slope exactly the way I needed (I found them after I order the X-Fusion)
    I love mine. I have had it for over 4 years and no issues. I havent even rebuilt it and have only had to add air to it once which was a few weeks ago for the first time. Definitely due for a rebuild though.

  47. #247
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    I love mine too! I changed mine from 100 to 120mm travel before I installed it. Yes the videos on X-Fusion's site are actually for a different fork so the internals are different. It is still very easy to change the travel. I posted here X-Fusion Slide RL2 - Page 3- Mtbr.com that the damper tool doesn't fit. I didn't need it and I have had this fork apart three times.
    I will never (never say never) buy anything from Niagara Cycle again. The only time that I ever bought anything from them it took forever and a Sunday to get it. I love dealing with X-Fusion directly though. I have had nothing but great service from them.
    Change begins by doing something different.

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