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  1. #1
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    Wide, fast XC tire.

    I am wondering what would be the best tire above 2.3" that would be fast and durable enough to survive a 9 day stage race across South Africa. Joberg2C - Extreme MTB Event
    The terrain will mostly be dry, with quite a lot of fire roads but thorns and rocks too. (ie. a bit of everything), doubt there will be much mud.

    The rider is just under 60kg, riding a Chinese LTK/FR211 hardtail, currently on 2.2 Race Kings on Stans Crest- I was thinking something more like a Racing Ralph 2.35.

  2. #2
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    Racing Ralph is nice but weeps big time. If you go that setup then use plenty of sealant inside the tire.

  3. #3
    Rod
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    I have ran both of the tires you mentioned. I really like race kings, but I think the ralphs would definitely get give you more volume and they grip great. I haven't ran them in that size, but I don't think you could go wrong.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by happybiker View Post
    I am wondering what would be the best tire above 2.3" that would be fast and durable enough to survive a 9 day stage race across South Africa. Joberg2C - Extreme MTB Event
    The terrain will mostly be dry, with quite a lot of fire roads but thorns and rocks too. (ie. a bit of everything), doubt there will be much mud.

    The rider is just under 60kg, riding a Chinese LTK/FR211 hardtail, currently on 2.2 Race Kings on Stans Crest- I was thinking something more like a Racing Ralph 2.35.
    Are you sure this rider wants that wide of a tire on a Crest rim? I think a 2.25 is okay on a Crest, but beyond that I think there are better rim choices to support wider tires. A Schwalbe 2.25 Racing Ralph with the Snakeskin is a wider tire than the Race Kings he currently has and would add some durability for such a stage race (with the Snakeskin).

    The bigger Ralph (used to be a 2.4, but now called a 2.35) does not come in the Snakeskin version which I think you would want for a 9 day stage race. The Nobby Nic comes in 2.35 with Snakeskin and rolls nice and fast for such a big tire. The problem being clearance in the rear with a lot of HT frames. With a Crest rim, my guess is hard efforts and out of saddle climbs could get some chainstay rub if you mounted a 2.35 or 2.4 in the rear. Some frames certainly do have clearance in the rear for the big meats, but I would check on the hardtail your rider has to see how much clearance there is before going above a 2.25 rear tire - especially on a Crest rim.
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  5. #5
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    I know everyone says "wider is faster", but that is under certain conditions.

    And, the rider in question is 60kg, on Crest rims. Not a 100kg dude on P35s. Not sure I understand why it is that you're looking to put 2.4s on this bike, or what gains you hope to achieve.

    Seems like you're hunting for speed in the wrong area, basically. A 2.25 SS would do the job, but a 2.4 will not be supported that well on a Crest, especially at the pressures a 60kg rider would use.

  6. #6
    Rod
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    Very good point about the rim sizes guys. I would definitely not want to use a tire that wide on a Crest rim at low pressures. It would definitely squirm.
    There is not much choice between rotten apples.

  7. #7
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    Agree with 2.25 SS on both ends for a 60 kg rider.

    I don't know the course, but I'm not a fan of the Ralph up front for aggressive cornering. Personally, on the courses I typically race (Creampuff, Butte 100, Capitol Forest), I would go with the Rocket Ron 2.25 up front, again in SS (which I've been told is available for 2013).
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Agree with 2.25 SS on both ends for a 60 kg rider.

    I don't know the course, but I'm not a fan of the Ralph up front for aggressive cornering. Personally, on the courses I typically race (Creampuff, Butte 100, Capitol Forest), I would go with the Rocket Ron 2.25 up front, again in SS (which I've been told is available for 2013).
    Rocket Ron SS 2.25 is my dream tire. That on the front, with a Fast Trak LK or Renegade in the back.

    Business in the front, party in the back. As my riding style has developed, I've found that I "flick" the rear end of the bike before I enter corners and the low knob style tyres help me pull that off.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosmo View Post
    Agree with 2.25 SS on both ends for a 60 kg rider.

    I don't know the course, but I'm not a fan of the Ralph up front for aggressive cornering. Personally, on the courses I typically race (Creampuff, Butte 100, Capitol Forest), I would go with the Rocket Ron 2.25 up front, again in SS (which I've been told is available for 2013).
    Or the Nobby Nic up front in 2.25 (available in SS) with a Ralph in the rear makes a great combo as well.
    The 14 warmest years have all occurred in the 16 years since 1997.

  10. #10
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    April 26 start gives you time to consider several options. One is the 390g wider Chinese carbon rims. With thorns snakeskin seems reasonable. Rocket Rons are 15% faster for 2013 and Racing Ralphs are also fast. Furious Freds on the Crests are an option for a clean stage.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hiway View Post
    Racing Ralph is nice but weeps big time. If you go that setup then use plenty of sealant inside the tire.
    My 2012 Racing Ralph EVO "tubeless ready" tires sealed right up with no weeping btw. Love them!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SS LS1 View Post
    My 2012 Racing Ralph EVO "tubeless ready" tires sealed right up with no weeping btw. Love them!
    That's good to hear, but maybe not the norm.

    Here is what Schwalbe themselves say about the Racing Ralph on their website:


    NOTE: When converting light weight tubeless-ready MTB racing tires to tubeless, the process can take up to 3 days of consistent sealing and sealant will seep from the sidewalls of the tires.

    LIGHTWEIGHT MTB racing tires are inherently thin in the sidewalls and will require extra care. Do NOT exceed 35 PSI on tubeless applications!!


    Of interest to note is Schalbe's warning not to exceed 35 psi when running tubeless. That's 5 psi less than what NoTubes warns when they say do not inflate over 40 psi. Personally, I usually never inflate above 30 psi on initial mounting while I let the sealant go to work. Once the sealant has done it's trick, I will then back the pressure down into the 20's (or in the case of larger volume tires, down in the upper teens).

    Either way, I just mounted up one of my older 2.4 Ralphs on the front of my Dos Niner yesterday (with a 2.25 in the rear). Even though the Ralph has been mounted tubeless and sealed up many times before, it weeped and seeped all day long.

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  13. #13
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    Thanks for all the replies, the reason I asked about a wider tire was to get some more squish at the rear. The rider in question is my sister who was thinking of running a Thud Buster as she coming from a full suss 26er and is battling a bit with the vibration when seated. I suggested to try a bigger tyre first and go from there. Her frame has quite a lot of clearance, not sure 2.4 will fit, maybe a 2.25 Ralph or Ron is ideal. She has had a professional fit before anyone suggests that. I'll be using Ralph/ Ron combo for the same race on my full suss.

  14. #14
    Rod
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    Quote Originally Posted by happybiker View Post
    Thanks for all the replies, the reason I asked about a wider tire was to get some more squish at the rear. The rider in question is my sister who was thinking of running a Thud Buster as she coming from a full suss 26er and is battling a bit with the vibration when seated. I suggested to try a bigger tyre first and go from there. Her frame has quite a lot of clearance, not sure 2.4 will fit, maybe a 2.25 Ralph or Ron is ideal. She has had a professional fit before anyone suggests that. I'll be using Ralph/ Ron combo for the same race on my full suss.
    I wouldn't want to go with a 2.4 on a crest. I was running 2.2 race king on the front, it got low in a race or I cornered too hard, burped, and it rolled almost tossing me over the bars. I would want to run very low pressures for a 2.4 which would cause the above scenario to occur again if I had a slow leak or was pushing hard through corners.

    Test them thoroughly before you race them.
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  15. #15
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    9 day stage race

    I'm not sure of the terrian in South Africa, but if I was to try a 9 day stage race. I think I would want to pay the wieght penalty and run heavier sidewall tires. Not sure what kinda support this race has. Sidewall failure does'nt sound fun though.

    As others have mentioned. Crest rims are a little on the narrow side. Staying 2.25" or narrower might be a safer bet.

    More saddle time on the HT before the race might help also.

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