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  1. #1
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    What should I upgrade next?

    Just got a nice new fork and the crank was also replaced about 2 months ago. What should I upgrade next? I am a newbie when it comes to components, I mostly concentrate on riding and technique. But now I see how upgrades can change the entire feel of a bike I am really intrigued.


    My bike, Kona Mahuna:








  2. #2
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    Lots of close outs right now on SRAM x9 level shifters, derailleurs chains etc. could improve your shifting quite a bit for very little. Another option which is my favorite is to pick up a new wheelset, tubeless of course depending on your budget.

    I'd recommend some hope hubs on Stan's no tube rims, flow's crests or arch's depending on your weight.

  3. #3
    Kitty! Kitty! Kitty!
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    Re: What should I upgrade next?

    Wheelset for sure. Nice ride!

  4. #4
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    Is there something about your bike that you are not enjoying? Are you trying to drop weight? Why upgrade if it needs nothing?
    2008 Redline Monocog 29er SS/Rigid
    2013 Marin Mount Vision XM7
    FS: 26" Black Flag Expert Wheelset (new), Reba 29 Fork

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by moefosho View Post
    Is there something about your bike that you are not enjoying? Are you trying to drop weight? Why upgrade if it needs nothing?
    That's just crazy talk.

  6. #6
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    I'd say grab yourself a set of X9 shifters and an X9 rear derailleur. That's a great upgrade your could do for less than $200.
    2013 Transition TransAM 29er
    2011 Yeti 303R DH
    2012 Banshee Spitfire V1.5

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTSession View Post
    I'd say grab yourself a set of X9 shifters and an X9 rear derailleur. That's a great upgrade your could do for less than $200.
    Thanks, I think I have an 8 speed cassette. Will this work with my bike even though it says 9 speed in the description?

    SRAM X.9 TRIGGER SHIFTERS W/ X.9 RER DER KIT | Rear Derailleurs | Drivetrain | www.PricePoint.com

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  8. #8
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    Unless you need to make changes to the cockpit to improve your fit/comfort on the bike, I would say whatever breaks next.

    Drive train parts wear and break, you will have to replace them eventually anyway, but if you are looking to move from 8 to 9- or 10-speed that is an expensive undertaking as you will need to replace shifters, rear derailleur, chain, and cassette. Making that upgrade could cost you essentially what you paid for your current bike.
    All other things being equal, the simplest solution is the best...William of Ockham

  9. #9
    Rub it............
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    Wheels. Best upgrade you can do.

    As parts - shifters/derailleurs/ect wear and break, replace/upgrade as your budget allows.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpick915 View Post
    Unless you need to make changes to the cockpit to improve your fit/comfort on the bike, I would say whatever breaks next.

    Drive train parts wear and break, you will have to replace them eventually anyway, but if you are looking to move from 8 to 9- or 10-speed that is an expensive undertaking as you will need to replace shifters, rear derailleur, chain, and cassette. Making that upgrade could cost you essentially what you paid for your current bike.
    Thanks for the perspective! I am just getting some ideas since the season is nearly over. What are some common cockpit upgrades?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by roknfnrol View Post
    Thanks for the perspective! I am just getting some ideas since the season is nearly over. What are some common cockpit upgrades?
    Handlebars, Stem, Grips, Saddle, Seatpost.

    In what way are you trying to upgrade? Drop weight? looks? comfort?
    2008 Redline Monocog 29er SS/Rigid
    2013 Marin Mount Vision XM7
    FS: 26" Black Flag Expert Wheelset (new), Reba 29 Fork

  12. #12
    Crash Dummy In Training
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    Nice Bike.
    I would ride it as is as far as drive train it will wear out after awhile then upgrade.
    I ride X-9 and love it FWIW you will also appreciate the up grade more after running what's on there now and you will be a more advanced rider.
    A nice wheel set as mentioned above can help Stan's with Hope Hub's from place's like Wiggle can be had for around $400.
    I recently changed my seat post to a carbon seat post and I will say it really helped with long ride's be for after a couple hour's I would get a little sore now after even 4 hour's of riding no soreness the carbon post really absorbs a lot of the bump's and if you watch E Bay and other add's you can find one pretty reasonable priced I got my $165 Specialized Carbon seat post brand new for $65.
    One thing I did that helped was to take the spacer's on my stem and put them on top rather than on the bottom this lowered my stem and bar's and helped by putting more of my weight forward I really notice when climbing this didn't cost a dime.
    Seat position and height will make a difference also you will have to adjust to your liking.
    ​​
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T.
    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

  13. #13
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    Are the Wtb rims that bad? I have them I was about to rehub them. Should I not bother?

  14. #14
    unrooted
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    TOOLS.

    Learn how to work on your bike, replace parts as they wear out, a few pounds taken off your bike now won't do you a whole lot of good until you've been riding a few years.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    TOOLS.

    Learn how to work on your bike, replace parts as they wear out, a few pounds taken off your bike now won't do you a whole lot of good until you've been riding a few years.
    I agree with this:

    Things to get:
    Allen wrenchs
    cable cutters
    tire levers
    Grease
    Lube


    Goal:
    Learn how to service your bike.


    On the bike itself :
    GO TUBELESS. best way to do this is to buy a new wheelset that is already compatable but depending on how crafty you are you can convert to tubeless.
    Also a new wheelset would be awesome. But do it right, The price floor on a solid one is around 400 bones.

    Next I would check out what kind of brake pads you have
    GO with sintered metallic and you will find an increase in power

    Im not sure a new dearliuer is neccasary just yet.
    you actually want to get some wear and tear out of the one you just bought.
    BUT a NEW shifter could increase the feel and perfomance more than a derliuer would.



    Advice:
    Ride a lot.
    When you get better you will get faster.
    In this process you will determine what you like and dont like about your bike.
    Until you get to this point you will not really know what you want.

    Example:
    I almost fell into the 1x10 setup(Trap)
    I opted out for a 2x10 and I firmly believe they are superior.
    The ability to go granny from big (while in the middle of the cassette) is Invaluable and has made me sooooooooooo Much faster than a 1x10 ever would have.
    (I also hate shifting through a whole cassette and then back) To climb a hill.


    Good luck.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    I agree with this:

    Things to get:
    Allen wrenchs
    cable cutters
    tire levers
    Grease
    Lube


    Goal:
    Learn how to service your bike.


    On the bike itself :
    GO TUBELESS. best way to do this is to buy a new wheelset that is already compatable but depending on how crafty you are you can convert to tubeless.
    Also a new wheelset would be awesome. But do it right, The price floor on a solid one is around 400 bones.

    Next I would check out what kind of brake pads you have
    GO with sintered metallic and you will find an increase in power

    Im not sure a new dearliuer is neccasary just yet.
    you actually want to get some wear and tear out of the one you just bought.
    BUT a NEW shifter could increase the feel and perfomance more than a derliuer would.



    Advice:
    Ride a lot.
    When you get better you will get faster.
    In this process you will determine what you like and dont like about your bike.
    Until you get to this point you will not really know what you want.

    Example:
    I almost fell into the 1x10 setup(Trap)
    I opted out for a 2x10 and I firmly believe they are superior.
    The ability to go granny from big (while in the middle of the cassette) is Invaluable and has made me sooooooooooo Much faster than a 1x10 ever would have.
    (I also hate shifting through a whole cassette and then back) To climb a hill.


    Good luck.
    Thanks, I do ride a lot. I try to ride 3 times a week or more. I also started racing Cat3 men's in our state Point Series. I also have tire levers and allan wrenches and use them a lot. Thanks for the 2x10 advice, I think that would be really fun as well as a tubeless wheel set.
    -Mike

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