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  1. #1
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    Upgrading comp model stumpy

    I need some ideas on what to upgrade on my stumpjumper ht comp? What parts would I benefit the most by replacing? I ride in central fl if that helps.

  2. #2
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    Upgrading comp model stumpy

    What year is your stumpy? That would help in regards to what parts came on it.


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    2013 Rockhopper 29- The hot rod fun bike
    2013 Stumpy HT Comp 29- The racin' machine

  3. #3
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    2013
    2013 Stumpjumper HT Comp 29er




    2013 Stumpjumper Hardtail Comp 29er

    Specifications

    -FRAME
    M5 fully manipulated alloy, 29" geometry, tapered HT, PF30 BB, PM 140mm rear brake, 135mm dropouts, replaceable derailleur hanger
    -FORK
    RockShox Reba RL 29, tapered alloy steerer, LO and reb adj. standard drop-outs, 15.5": 80mm travel, Others: 90mm
    -HEADSET
    1-1/8" and 1-1/2" Threadless, Campy style upper with 1.5" lower, cartridge bearings
    -STEM
    Specialized XC, 3D forged alloy, 4-bolt, 31.8mm clamp, adjustable rise, S: 75mm, M: 90mm, L: 105mm, XL/XXL: 105mm
    -HANDLEBARS
    Specialized XC flat, 2014 butted alloy, 680mm wide, 8 back sweep, 31.8mm
    -GRIPS
    Specialized lock-on, S/M: Grappler, Others: Grappler XL
    -FRONT BRAKE
    Custom Magura MTS, hydralic disc, Hi Friction pad, alloy caliper,
    Storm SL rotor, 15.5/17.5 160mm rotor, 19/21 180mm
    rotor
    -REAR BRAKE
    Custom Magura MTS, hydralic disc, Hi Friction pad, alloy
    caliper, Storm SL rotor, 160mm rotor
    -BRAKE LEVERS
    Custom Magura MTS, alloy master cyclinder/lever blade,
    hollow lever pivot, reach adj.
    -FRONT DERAILLEUR
    SRAM X7, 10-speed, 34.9 clamp mount, high clamp
    -REAR DERAILLEUR
    SRAM X9 Type 2, 10-speed, mid cage
    -SHIFT LEVERS
    SRAM X7, 10-speed, aluminum trigger, w/MatchMaker clamps
    -CASSETTE
    SRAM PG-1030, 10-speed, 11-36t
    -CHAIN
    KMC X10, 10-speed, w/ reuseable Missing Link, nickel plates
    -CRANKSET
    Custom SRAM S-1250, 7050 alloy arms, 10-speed XC double, PF30 spindle, 15.5": 170mm, Others: 175mm
    -CHAINRINGS
    38/24
    -BOTTOM BRACKET
    SRAM PF30, OS press-in bearing, sealed cartridge
    -RIMS
    Roval 29, 26mm w/ eyelets, 32h
    -FRONT HUB
    Specialized Hi Lo disc, laser-etched logo, OS 28 end caps, sealed cartridge bearing, RWS, 32h
    -REAR HUB
    Specialized Hi Lo disc, laser-etched logo, double-sealed cartridge bearing, QR, 32h
    -SPOKES
    DT Swiss Industry 2.0, (14g) stainless
    -FRONT TIRE
    S-Works Fast Trak, 2Bliss Ready, 120 TPI, aramid bead,
    29x2.0
    -REAR TIRE
    Specialized Fast Trak Control, 2Bliss Ready, 60 TPI, aramid
    bead, 29x2.0
    -INNER TUBES
    Ultralight presta valve
    -SADDLE
    Specialized Body Geometry Phenom Comp, hollow Cr-Mo rails, 143mm width
    -SEATPOST
    2014 butted alloy, single bolt setback, 27.2mm, 350mm 15.5/17.5"
    -SEAT CLAMP
    31.8mm clamp size, 7050 hard anodized alloy collar, single bolt
    *Specifications subjected to changes without notice.

  4. #4
    turtles make me hot
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    I have an 09 Stumpjumper Expert FSR. First and foremost, the wheels that came on mine were crap. They had these narrow, flexy, DT Swiss rims and the rear hub was trash. I'm not sure exactly what the wheels are like on your bike, but based on the Epic, Rockhopper and FSR XC my friends bought over the past few years, I'll bet they could be better.
    Where do you ride, Boyette, Alafia and Carter? What do you weigh?
    I vote for Hope hubs and Stan's Arch EX Or Flow EX on DT Swiss Comps. Tubeless... Ground Control S Works up front. I like Geax Saguaro on the rear. Works well on those trails. I was down there this past August on these tires.
    Is that the stem with that goofy tapered wedge sleeve thing? They're pretty heavy and noisy. Thomson, Loaded Components, Niner RDO... All good stems. I'm running Loaded on my Stump. I also swapped my flat bars to 710mm riser ODI bars.
    Other than that, the drivetrain, brakes and fork are solid.
    I like turtles

  5. #5
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    I mostly ride santos and Deleon. I weigh 220 I believe it could use a better wheel set also. How much do you think that wheel set will run me?

  6. #6
    turtles make me hot
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    220... Go with Flows. Rims are 90 each, Rear hub, 190, front hub, 89, spokes... Maybe 120 bucks for 64 of em. figure around 50 bucks each to build.
    I've been to Santos. The rim-tire combo I listed will work well there also.
    I like turtles

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gjb89 View Post
    2013
    2013 Stumpjumper HT Comp 29er



    Sweet, I've go the same exact bike!

    Honestly, the only truly heavy parts on it are; the cassette, cranks, and wheelset, and fortunately those are the ones most worth replacing IMO.

    Cheapest noteworthy upgrades: either a PG1070/XTm771 cassette, or X9 shifters. it'll make the an incredibly huge difference in shift quality. X7 front derailleur is a place to upgrade as well, however mine when set up properly shifts flawlessly. The cassettes will drop some weight too.

    Slightly More expensive: Change the cranks out to X9/X0. You'll drop a ton of weight and get increased stiffness/shift quality. This is probably the worst bang for your buck.

    Most expensive(and worth it! IMO): GET A BETTER WHEELSET. Depending on how much you spend, you can save anywhere from a .25lbs to over 1.25lbs! A good suggestion at your weight would be stan's flows laced to a good quality hub. It will probably come in at around 2000 isn grams or so, the stock wheelset is around 1300g if I'm correct. The is by far the most noticeable difference, it'll feel stiffer, lighter, and accelerate more quickly as well. However, I must admit that stan's notubes wheels never felt as stiff as I thought they would have(but PLENTY stiff for an 90mm travel bike) If your budget allows it, the Roval Control Carbon wheel set is a no brainer, and 240lb weight limit!

    Other places to look are a carbon seatpost/bars and cockpit stuffs like that to make yourself more comfortable. Hope this helps

  8. #8
    Crash Dummy In Training
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    I have the 2012 SJ Comp HT I'm replacing my wheel set with a set of Light Bicycle Carbon rims with Chris King Hubs aprox. cost will be around $1,100 as I agree the stock hubs blow chunks.
    I also did Carbon Bars and Carbon seat post much better ride over bumps.
    And as said above Crank Cassette and shifters.
    I will be adding Brakes (SLX) as soon as my Avids wear out.
    I wanted the Maguras you have you will have to see how they work for you
    ​​
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T.
    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    I wanted the Maguras you have you will have to see how they work for you
    I love the maguras, excellent modulation compared to shimano, a mono block caliper which is stiffer than SLX or XT, and very lightweight. The lever feel is totally different, and for the first ride was kinda squishy and weak, but once bedded in has excellent power. I used to be a die hard shimano fanboy, but when it comes to XC, the MTS takes the flag in my book. No word on long term longevity though, I just picked my bike up last week and have less than 100 miles on it.

  10. #10
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    How does this look?

    Front Hub
    Hope Pro 2 EVO, Red, 32 hole, 9mm Quick Release or 15mm Thru Axle (buyers choice)

    Rear Hub
    Hope Pro 2 EVO, Red, 32 hole, 10x135mm Bolt On

    Rims
    Stans No-Tubes ZTR Flow EX, White, 32 hole
    Rims are taped with the Stans Tubeless rim tape, Includes Stans Tubeless Valve

  11. #11
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    It may not be an uber expensive wheel set with some exotic set of hubs, but it will be reliable, hard to break, easily serviceable, and incredibly confidence inspiring. I say do it.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gjb89 View Post
    I need some ideas on what to upgrade on my stumpjumper ht comp? What parts would I benefit the most by replacing? I ride in central fl if that helps.
    What are you trying to accomplish? What specifically is wrong with what you currently have? You can upgarde everything if you want but why? I have a '12 Stumpy Evo HT and here is what I have done:

    Niner RDO carbon post. Did this to give me some flex. Works brilliantly..well worth it.
    S-Works Prowess mini-riser bar. Did this to increase front-end comfort. Not sure if this did much.
    Syntace F109 stem. Figured I replaced the rest of the cockpit so why not the stem? Lost some weight.
    Roval Control 29 wheels. Great upgrade. Lost some weight and they are much nicer than the stockers.
    Mine is stock 1x10 but I went ahead and added a Wolf Tooth no-drop ring so I could ditch my E.13 chainguide and loose some weight.

    I see some say cassette..why? The stock PG-103 works just fine..may be a bit heavy but I woudn't replace it unless it was worn out.
    The X7 shifters work just fine. Again, woudn't replace unless something broke. These shift the same as any of the higher end shifters. I will likely replace mine when it gets sloppy with an X9 to get the ball-bearing mechanism.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  13. #13
    Fat-tired Roadie
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    Make it fit you. That often requires a new stem and/or bars.

    Get a saddle you like. Get pedals you like. Get tires you like.

    The rest gets way into diminishing returns.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  14. #14
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    Upgrading comp model stumpy

    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post

    I see some say cassette..why? The stock PG-103 works just fine..may be a bit heavy but I woudn't replace it unless it was worn out.
    The X7 shifters work just fine. Again, woudn't replace unless something broke. These shift the same as any of the higher end shifters. I will likely replace mine when it gets sloppy with an X9 to get the ball-bearing mechanism.
    I was simply giving options because the OP asked for them, and I feel that as far as components are concerned, the weakest links should be eliminated. If the OP had a mentality of "it works just fine, so why replace it?" He wouldn't have made a post asking what, anything, he could upgrade.

    As for shifters, I would like to make a counter-argument with that. There's a reason an X.9 shifter costs more than an X.7. Much more precise engineering tolerances, ball bearings, and a much firmer, more tactile shift(The results are a little different for XX however) Now this effect is much less when comparing their 2014 X.7/9 shifters, as much has been revamped, however for 2013 components it holds very true.

    The cassette also follows the same lines, it's not just about weight. If you ride a 1030 cassette and a 1070 cassette back to back with the same drivetrain setup(X.9 type 2 and x.7 shifters) you WILL notice a difference. Higher end cassettes are not only lighter, but the shift ramping is more aggressive and precise, and they will often shed mud at a higher rate due to the weight saving absences of material. Yes, for casual riding, or a new rider(not saying you are!) it may not be a discernible difference, but if you're very used to riding a 1030 cassette, and you switch to a 1070 you will notice a big difference in shifting under load etc.

    I will agree though that a comfortable cockpit should always be first and foremost. But I assume the OP is already happy with it as it was not brought up as a major concern.


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    2013 Rockhopper 29- The hot rod fun bike
    2013 Stumpy HT Comp 29- The racin' machine

  15. #15
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    Carbon seat post, stem and handle bars.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cenzobear View Post
    I was simply giving options because the OP asked for them, and I feel that as far as components are concerned, the weakest links should be eliminated. If the OP had a mentality of "it works just fine, so why replace it?" He wouldn't have made a post asking what, anything, he could upgrade.

    As for shifters, I would like to make a counter-argument with that. There's a reason an X.9 shifter costs more than an X.7. Much more precise engineering tolerances, ball bearings, and a much firmer, more tactile shift(The results are a little different for XX however) Now this effect is much less when comparing their 2014 X.7/9 shifters, as much has been revamped, however for 2013 components it holds very true.

    The cassette also follows the same lines, it's not just about weight. If you ride a 1030 cassette and a 1070 cassette back to back with the same drivetrain setup(X.9 type 2 and x.7 shifters) you WILL notice a difference. Higher end cassettes are not only lighter, but the shift ramping is more aggressive and precise, and they will often shed mud at a higher rate due to the weight saving absences of material. Yes, for casual riding, or a new rider(not saying you are!) it may not be a discernible difference, but if you're very used to riding a 1030 cassette, and you switch to a 1070 you will notice a big difference in shifting under load etc.

    I will agree though that a comfortable cockpit should always be first and foremost. But I assume the OP is already happy with it as it was not brought up as a major concern.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    I don't disagree with you about the quality of nicer components, however, replacing a perfectly good cassette or shifter before its worn out isn't going to be money well spent. I would also still would argue that if properly adjusted, my X7 shifter/1030 cassette isn't going to be much different in shifting smoothness than an X9 shifter/1070 cassette..certainly not enough to hinder your riding. I can't ever think of a time over the last 2 years when either riding or racing that I ever longed for either my shifter or cassette to be higher-end.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  17. #17
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    I recently bought a 2013 StumpJumper HT Comp and thought I might chime in.

    I've replaced the saddle with a WTB Volt SLT (202gm vs 277gm), seat post with a Thomson Elite setback (288gm vs 300gm), bars with an Easton EC 70 riser (159gm vs 229gm), grips with Lizard Skins Peaty (107gm vs 99gm). I also have a Thomson Elite X4 100mm 10 deg stem and SunRingle Charger Pro 29er wheelset I was planning to use. Surprisingly, the Thomson stem is heavier (165gm vs 116gm). Disappointingly, the Charger Pro wheels came in at 2014gm with rim tape (950gm front and 1064gm rear). The Specialized Roval front wheel weighs 936gm with rim tape. Consequently, I plan to return the Charger Pros. I'm thinking of going with some Stan's NoTubes Arch EX's on Hope hubs. I weigh 165 FWIW. Any input on a reasonably priced alloy wheel upgrade is appreciated.

  18. #18
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    Re: Upgrading comp model stumpy

    Quote Originally Posted by markmaxwell View Post
    I recently bought a 2013 StumpJumper HT Comp and thought I might chime in.

    I've replaced the saddle with a WTB Volt SLT (202gm vs 277gm), seat post with a Thomson Elite setback (288gm vs 300gm), bars with an Easton EC 70 riser (159gm vs 229gm), grips with Lizard Skins Peaty (107gm vs 99gm). I also have a Thomson Elite X4 100mm 10 deg stem and SunRingle Charger Pro 29er wheelset I was planning to use. Surprisingly, the Thomson stem is heavier (165gm vs 116gm). Disappointingly, the Charger Pro wheels came in at 2014gm with rim tape (950gm front and 1064gm rear). The Specialized Roval front wheel weighs 936gm with rim tape. Consequently, I plan to return the Charger Pros. I'm thinking of going with some Stan's NoTubes Arch EX's on Hope hubs. I weigh 165 FWIW. Any input on a reasonably priced alloy wheel upgrade is appreciated.
    The Roval Controls (reg alloy version) are GREAT.

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    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  19. #19
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    The wheels I'm looking at weigh

    Front Wheel Weight - 2lbs 2oz = 964gr (w/out Tire)
    Rear Wheel Weight - 2lb 7oz = 1105gr (w/out Tire)

    Is this much different then the roval that come stock?

  20. #20
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    Not much...The stockers are in the 2100 range for the set. The aftermarket Roval Controls are in the 1650 range.

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    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  21. #21
    Ski during the off-season
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    Second what most are saying about the wheel set. You can order a set of the Light Bicycle carbon rims with Hope 2 hubs for around $800-$900 (forget the exact price) -- you should save 300g - 400g. 400g is approx. 1 pound of savings, which is significant rotational mass savings. I am guessing at 220lbs, that you generate a solid amount of torque, so you will notice that the stiffer wheels will keep lines better. Additionally, if you opt for the wider rims (i.e., 30mm OD / 23mm ID and not the upcoming 35mm OD), they should track better -- there are plenty of articles / posts that cover the benefits of wider rims especially if you use 2.2" - 2.4" tires.

    The next would be carbon bars -- while not tremendously better, the carbon will transfer less vibration to your arms (some notice this, while others do not).

    If you had Avids, I would say that would be the next place to upgrade -- you can get 2013 XTR's for a sweet price now. The Magura MTS are better than the Avid 5's that came on my 2013 SJ FSR Elite, but I am not sure how they compare to the XTR's.

    Regarding the cassette, replace it with a higher end model - XTR 1080 or SRAM 1080 - you will save another 100g (again, rotational weight, but not as significant as the wheel set), but I would not replace it until you need to replace your chain / cassette. This will cost you as well -- the 1030 can be found for under $60, but the 1080's will lighten your wallet significantly more...

    Finally, you can always consider a new fork, if you would like more travel (longer is not always better ;-) I have read good things about the 2014 FOX CTD's -- I notice that you have a RockShok, and you may be happy with that.

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