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  1. #1
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    Understanding 2x10 Cranks and Options...Why metal bash guard on lowest geared ones?

    So...I am contemplating a change from my current 3x10 setup on my 11' Trek X-cal because I never use my large ring and like idea of better shifting from my front rings. It is a sram drivetrain (shifters, 11-36 cassette, x7 rear derailer) with a shimano deore front derailer. I would even consider a 1x10 setup if I knew how to get a small ring up front....like a 24 or 26 tooth.....I climb a lot of steep hills and enjoy technical long climbs. All of the the sram and shimano 2x10 cranksets I see without a bash guard come only go as low as 39-26. All of the lower geared ones that I would like come with an ugly and weight adding metal bash guard thing. Why do the lower geard ones (36-22) have this? Can it be removed? I really like the look of the cranksets without the metal bash guards. Does anyone know if it is possible to use a single small 24ish tooth ring on the front? What would I need to do this? I saw that mrp bling ring that goest down to 28 tooth, but you had to have specific crank arms.....can you just buy crank arms without the rings?
    Thanks for the help!

  2. #2
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    I have the same bike. I removed the 42t ring and switched to a 36t middle ring.

    Then adjust the front derailleur so it can't shift to big ring position and you're set.

    Cost of a ring and shorter bolts vs a whole new crank set and shifter and derailleur.

  3. #3
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    thanks....then did you need a guard on the outside? I'm assuming so

  4. #4
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    I am contemplating a change from my current 3x10 setup on my 11' Trek X-cal because I never use my large ring and like idea of better shifting from my front rings
    Typically doubles have worse shifting that triples because the 'jump' between rings is bigger.

    All of the the sram and shimano 2x10 cranksets I see without a bash guard come only go as low as 39-26
    Shimano offers both the SLX and XT doubles in 38/24 combination

    I really like the look of the cranksets without the metal bash guards.
    The bash is there to stop you leaving your chainring teeth behind on rocks and logs (and so you don't lacerate your leg in a crash), but if you only ride smooth trails then go for a chainset without a bash, or remove it on one that comes with, though in the latter case you may need to pick up a set of shorter chainring bolts.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthMTB View Post
    Typically doubles have worse shifting that triples because the 'jump' between rings is bigger.



    Shimano offers both the SLX and XT doubles in 38/24 combination
    The jump between a triple (22/32/44) is 12 teeth. The Shimano XT double (M785) is a 38/26 (also 12 teeth) or 40/28 (12 teeth).
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  6. #6
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    I was looking for a SRAM 2x10 set up smaller than 26/39, and I found one in the X9 (24/38) and they make a 22/36 also. Does have a bash guard though, but it can be removed if you'll be riding smooth trail.

    It's probably best to keep it on if you're riding more technical trails.
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  7. #7
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    The jump between a triple (22/32/44) is 12 teeth. The Shimano XT double (M785) is a 38/26 (also 12 teeth) or 40/28 (12 teeth).
    Yes, I was guilty of a generalisation there, as both my doubles are 14T jumps - SLX M665 22/36 and XT M785 24/38. So I'll rephrase that...

    Doubles have the same or greater jumps than triples, so I would expect front shifting to be the same or worse, but not better.
    Last edited by PerthMTB; 09-19-2012 at 06:57 AM.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PerthMTB View Post
    Doubles have the same or greater jumps than triples, so I would expect front shifting to be the same or worse, but not better.
    Actually, the lower front derailleur position can make granny shifts more reliable on a 2 ring setup. That was very true in the old days before ramped and pinned chainrings. Probably less true now.
    If you have never had a problem up to now without a bash and never damaged your present large ring then you will not need a bash ring when you remove the large ring.

  9. #9
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    +1 on what irv said. It can also help to adjust the FD height on some bikes, since you can lower it after removing the large ring. Dial the upper limit screw to eliminate shifting past the current middle ring,

    Unless your bike is fairly high mileage your small ring is probably still in good shape. That said, a lot of people go to a 24/36. I don't see/hear of anyone running 1x10 with anything smaller than 32T up front. Given that you want to keep something around 24-26T I think the 2x10 is going to make the most sense.

  10. #10
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    so I like the idea of taking off the large ring and making the middle ring larger (like 36 tooth).....what chainring brand would work easiest to bolt right on? I saw at Jenson a truvativ trushift chainring 104bcd in a 36 tooth available in steel and aluminum? Is one better than the other? Would this be the right ring to buy? Also, I don't have to add a bash guard do I? Thanks again

  11. #11
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    Go X0. The bash ring is light weight carbon. I love mine.

  12. #12
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    To the OP, the reason you see the bash guard on the lower geared cranksets is because they're considered for more Trail/AM use where a bash is a good idea, the ones with the higher gearing are considered more for XC riding and racing where a bash is generally not needed and a weight gain and XC racers especially look for as little weight as they can. IMHO, I'd say just remove the big ring and buy new single ring chanring bolts and call it a day, that's all you need to do.

    You will need to do what the poster above said though and limit your FD so it can't shift past the middle ring - this is accomplished using the adjuster limit screws, check the Park Tools site for instructions.
    Sugino Single Chainrng Bolt Set > Components > Drivetrain > Chainrings | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
    Last edited by LyNx; 09-20-2012 at 04:15 AM.
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  13. #13
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    I have a 22/36 SRAM double. I changed the large ring to a 32. I'm old and slow. and added an MRP bash. Works great.

  14. #14
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    Irv Usc, so what type of chainring did you use for the 36 tooth? Brand
    I need to buy one and am not sure exactly what to get

  15. #15
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    You said you were considering a 1X setup, so don't really understand the need for a new ring If you'd gone to a 1X setup you'd probably use a ring smaller than 30t, so the stock 32t should work fine as your "big" ring and I think you'd find you stay in it a lot more than if you went to a 36t where you'd be down in the granny more. I say just do the removal of the big ring/44t and give the 22/32 2X a try, then if you want a bigger big ring get a 36t.
    Quote Originally Posted by ptkevin View Post
    Irv Usc, so what type of chainring did you use for the 36 tooth? Brand
    I need to buy one and am not sure exactly what to get
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  16. #16
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    I'm still on 2x9, 26x36 up front, 12-34 out back. I have an E13 black polycarb chain ring that covers the 36T up front. That is 104 bolt pattern, I'm sure they have something in your bolt pattern.

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