Results 1 to 25 of 25
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    8

    tubeless on laser disc trail

    any one have good experience going tubeless [stans] on some wtb laser disc trail rims and if so with what tires tried with some kenda klaws with no sucess chazz

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    87
    Just did it with a Weirwolf and worked fine, did the back with a crossmark on a WTB all mountain, had problems sealing at first but is good now, I think it actually wasn't sealing a the stem, the bead was ok. I had a hard time gettin the stans strip to lay in rim perfectly even, but I believe in the Trail rim I only used 2 layers of the tape that comes with the kit and then the strip and it was good, just use a lot of soapy water to get it tospread evenly.

  3. #3
    Former Bike Wrench
    Reputation: mtnbiker72's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    15,985
    I've had good success with SpeedDisc AM's (similar rim profile to Laserdisc Trail) running Ghetto Tubeless (split tube) with standard tires and Gorilla Tape with tubeless ready tires. The Kenda Klaws suck for tubeless...they would not seal up IME. Michelin AT, Kenda Nevegal, and IRC Mythos II (wire bead) have all worked well.

  4. #4
    Meat Clever
    Reputation: DirtDummy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    673
    I couldn't get them to seal without plugging the channel with freezer insulation beneath gorilla tape.
    Quote Originally Posted by VanillaEps View Post
    A little bit of pee just trickled out of my pipi when I saw that.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: driver bob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,316
    I just looked on the Stans site yesterday and they have instructions on getting a good seal with the Laserdisc trail.

    They do recommend plugging the channel with insulation foam underneath the tape.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: boomn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    9,647
    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDummy
    I couldn't get them to seal without plugging the channel with freezer insulation beneath gorilla tape.
    Same here, I had to fill the channel. Worked great after that

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Posts
    321
    I've had limited success with just 2 layers of electrical tape & a cloth rim strip. The issue doesn't appear with either but with the seam, as that's where it's weeping/leaking. But that was with a combo of Fix-A-Flat & a couple of ounces of Slime for tubeless tires. Seems to be doing a bit better since I added Schwinn tire sealant a little more than a week ago. The Schwinn stuff was more viscous than either the Fix-A-Flat (very liquid) or Slime so that probably accounts for the improvent. Despite using less than the recommended amount. Only time will tell if it holds for the long term. Will definitely be my last WTB rim though. I'll use Salsa Semi's next time.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: grizzler's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    114
    i'm running my lasediscs with stans– i filled the channel with weather stripping. have successfully sealed kenda small block 8's and panaracer rampages. had to give it a shot of compressed air to work on the rampage though... good luck!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: packfill's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    234
    set up my father's laser disc trail wheels tubes with wtb vulpine 2.1 over christmas. (felt nine elite christmas present). i called no tubes ahead of time. they recommended the plus four rim strip and filling the rim cavity with 3/8” x 3/16” weather stripping from FROST KING. we actually found the exact weather stripping at Walmart. used an air compressor, because he's got one in the basement. it took two tries with one of the wheel. but other than that, everything went smoothly. they're still holding air.

  10. #10
    Is that Bill rated?
    Reputation: Lord Humongous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    440
    I found they worked quite well, no weather stripping, just some velox rim tape (16mm) in the bead well. Seated no problem, floor pump, with Maxxis and Kenda tires. Burping on the other hand was atrocious.
    Well, it was a good try.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    42

    Burps

    Pretty sure that the reason they're burping on you is because you didn't use the weather stripping in the channel. Your rim strim being flat all the way across the bottom of the rim is pretty important, which is why they have you fill the void with weather stripping. When that bead gets pushed inward in a burp scenario, if the rim strip is flat it will only burp minimal air.....if the bead pushes in and meets that big void, it will let an 'atrocious' amount of air in.

    I have great luck with my laserdiscs, with weatherstripping, extreme rocks and roots at around 28psi. Had to use compressed air to get them seated at first though.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    274

    CaffeLatex converstion this week on the traildisc 29ers

    Anyone tried to convert the WTB Traildisc with CaffeLatex yet? I should have the "heavy duty" kit (27mm) this week and am debating on if I need to use the stan's method of filling the channel with weatherstripping. The conversion is pretty similar but only uses 1 strip of rimtape...not an actual liner like Stan's. Thanks in advance!

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    274

    Follow up fromo CafeLatex.

    Just in case anyone else goes down this road...this is what I found out. I am going to use the 12mm yellow tape/weatherstrip/ caffelatex tape. That should work.

    Thank you for your interest in Caffélatex!

    Our sealing tape is very thin and it would have a hard time sealing a rim like WTB Trail, with a large rectangle drop channel in the center of the rim.

    The creator of Caffélatex suggests that you use the Notubes sealing rim-strip and tapes. Our sealant can be used once the rim has been sealed with the strips and tape.


    Please let me know if you have any further questions.


    Sincerely,



    Cantitoe Road

    Ashley Shapiro

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Posts
    443

    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead!

    Quote Originally Posted by illcomm33
    Just in case anyone else goes down this road...this is what I found out. I am going to use the 12mm yellow tape/weatherstrip/ caffelatex tape. That should work.

    Thank you for your interest in Caffélatex!

    Our sealing tape is very thin and it would have a hard time sealing a rim like WTB Trail, with a large rectangle drop channel in the center of the rim.

    The creator of Caffélatex suggests that you use the Notubes sealing rim-strip and tapes. Our sealant can be used once the rim has been sealed with the strips and tape.


    Please let me know if you have any further questions.


    Sincerely,



    Cantitoe Road

    Ashley Shapiro
    How did it go? What tires are you using?

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    274
    Quite impressed. The tire has held air and shows no signs of leaking. I took it out on a 1.5 hour ride today at 34 PSI and it held perfectly! (it is just a standard Ignitor 29 X 2.1 at this point. Will be installing a 2bliss Captain this week)

    The steps are noted below.
    Images noted here.
    http://www.flickr.com/photos/3317178...357848/detail/

    WTB Laserdisc Trail 29 conversion step-by-step instruction process.

    To be used on all WTB wheels with the large rectangular drop channel in the center of the rim.

    Step 1 - Gather a Few Needed Items

    (In this photo)
    § Weather seal Gray 3/8 inch wide X 3/16 inch thick X 17’ roll ($2.50 at Lowe’s)
    § Rubbing alcohol (blue spray bottle)
    § 12mm Stan’s Yellow Tape
    § HD Caffe Tape Kit (HD kit (not the race kit!)
    § Caffélatex Bottle, Caffé Tubeless Valve, & Caffélatex Injector.

    Step 2 - Prepare the Wheel

    Prepare the wheel, removing the original rim-tape and cleaning the rim-bed with alcohol and a rag (a touch of sand-paper is a good idea if there's any sharp burr at the spoke-holes). Dry the rim-bed with a paper towel or micro fiber towel.

    Step 3 - Apply Stan’s 12 MM Yellow Tape

    Install Stan’s 12mm Yellow Tape.
    Start 2 inches (5 cm) from the valve hole and stop 2 inches (5 cm) after the valve hole (after 2 complete wraps!). As Stan notes on his install video (notubes.com) the tape is flexible and won’t necessarily tear so pull it down while pulling hard on it.
    Wrap the rim 2 times with the yellow tape.

    Step 4 - Apply Foam Weather seal

    Install Weather seal 3/8 inch wide X 3/16 foam.

    I had success starting halfway around the rim directly ACROSS from the valve hole.
    Don’t remove the white/paper backing at this point. Use the already sticky side to install.
    Lightly pull the weatherseal around the entire rim.
    Note: Not sure if it really matters were you start the weatherseal. I started the seal this way so when I poked the valve hole there was a will be have a complete circle in the foam
    Step 5: Install Caffé Tape and poke hole
    STOP! IMPORTANT!

    Spray rubbing alcohol onto a clean cloth and carefully re-clean the inside of the rim an area especially on the shoulder of the rectangular drop channel (where the caffelatex tape will adhere to. The step will remove any oil residues left from the previous 2 steps. Then proceed with installing the caffe tape as outlined below.


    * Remove the white/paper backing of the weatherseal; carefully avoiding touching the inside of the rim surface. *
    Using the red Caffelatex tape start 2 inches (5 cm) from the valve hole and stop 2 inches (5 cm) after the valve hole. This will result in 4 inches (10 cm) overlap. The tape is flexible but won't stretch, so put it down while pulling hard on it: this will avoid wrinkles or air bubbles. If the tape doesn't stick well, stop and clean the rim with a paper towel or micro fiber towel. The tape has a good adhesive base, if it doesn't stick there's something wrong with the rim surface.
    Make a round hole using a small screwdriver (the smaller the puncture for the valve hole, the easier it will be to get the good air-tightness when inserting the valve).

    Step 6 - Use Tube for Perfect Tape Adhesion
    (Do this step for the WTB Rims: NOT OPTIONAL)

    Mount a tire with an inner-tube on the wheel and keep it at 50-60 psi for several hours. (Beer time! I let my wheels sit for 20 hours) Then remove the tube. This will help ensure perfect tape adhesion and easier tire inflation.
    Note: The images below are after the wheel sat with a tube for 20 hours. As you can see there was little adhesion of the tape to the actual weatherseal but the shoulder connection is tight.

    Step 5 - Insert the Valve

    The smaller the puncture for the valve hole, the easier it will be to get the good air-tightness. Make sure the rubber valve base is pressed firmly against the tape. Thread the lock nut onto the valve and secure it against the rim.
    Note: I used a Mavic O-ring that comes with the UST valve on the outside of the rim, underneath the lock nut (you should be able to get a small o-ring at any home improvement store). This stopped the slight amount of air bubbles coming from the valve.

    Step 6 – Use soapy water on tire beads to assist with mounting the tire

    Mount the tire. You will need a compressor and soapy water. Inflate the tire just to be sure the tire will hold pressure. This can be very easy to very difficult depending on the tire brand, model, and materials. A liberal use of soapy water and a good compressor can do wonders with inflating the tire (using soapy water on the rims and beads can lower friction and reduce the force needed to push the tire over the edge). Then deflate the tire and remove the valve core from the valve using the valve core key supplied with the valves.

    Step 7 - Inject Caffélatex

    Add the sealant. I take the sealant from the bottle using the Caffélatex injector, and then I inject it through the valve (note that I don't use any adapter on the injector tube, it's faster). If leaving the valve core in then use the adapter. (This is the stock photo)

    Step 8 - Inflate, Shake, and Roll - It's Done

    Insert the valve core back into the valve. Inflate, shake, and roll: it's done. Caffélatex will seal any porous areas in tire casing or the bead (as can be seen in the photo above). Use soapy water on any area that needs sealing. Shake, flip, let the wheel rest (on a bucket) and repeat if necessary.
    Please note the tire pictured above is a Maxxis Igniter 29 X 2.1, which is a non-UST, TNT, TLR, or 2bliss tire. This is probably the main reason this seeping occurred. The tire was used for test purposes only and is being replaced by a 2Bliss style model as suggested in the Effetto Mariposa instruction manual.
    You will need to adjust the pressure a couple of times (depending on how porous the tire is). Then the system will stabilize and you'll be ready to go!

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Posts
    165
    After a year have you had any issues with the tire burping? I ride aggressively on chunky trails and cant afford failure. I just ordered a laserdisc trail 26/xt to replace a blown out 317 wheel. I want tubeless but remain skeptical of conversions.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    274
    MTBOZ..
    I never had any issues with burping or blowouts of any sort. The conversion was pretty good overall. I was getting some caffelatex in the eyelets and valve stem (because the fluid evenutally got under the tape) I ended up getting some Stan's rims and never looked back. The Mavic 819's are $ if you want to go UST....

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drwx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    354
    Reviving an old thread here...

    I have some of these wheels that I'm converting. For the weatherstrip/foam, is it the light fluffy stuff or the rubbery weatherstrip? I haven't found any reference to this on stans website.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation: illcomm33's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    274
    I used basic weatherstrip/Foam but not sure if that is the best way after checking out a couple sites. See the comments on this youtube video.

    *Tubeless Conversion* Caffelatex & WTB Trail 29 --Part 1 of 2-- - YouTube

    Make sure to use a couple wraps of yellow tape UNDER the foam, in the channel.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drwx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    354
    thanks.. i'll check that link out when i get home. I'm doing a stans conversion on my 26" wtb laser disc trails. I have the rhyno lite rim strips and yellow tape.




    edit.. i didn't see any comments on the youtube video. What is recommended instead of the foam?
    Last edited by drwx; 10-26-2012 at 02:06 PM.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    12
    I have heard that Speeddisc rims work ok.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drwx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    354
    i got the front wheel mounted up last night. I didn't use soap or water to get the rim strip or tire on. I used a little loogey for one section of the tire that wouldn't seat. It appears to still be holding air this morning. I probably won't be a 100% believer until I get some trail time on it.

    ps, the statement from stans that the stans yellow tape won't rip is a lie. mine had a snag in it from being inside the conversion kit. the tape ripped a couple of times.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drwx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    354
    i finally got out for a quick ride on the tubeless yesterday. I lost about 10psi in the rear tire after a mile or so. I stopped and added more air. I started the rear at 30.

    My tires are maxxis ignitor Exo 26"x2.35".

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: rynoman03's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    382
    I know this is a super old thread. I've followed the instructions but used gorilla tape. It's leaking at the rim seam. First was the valve and I fixed that issue by tightening it a bit more. Would a rim strip work better on these rims.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: drwx's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    354

    Re: tubeless on laser disc trail

    I used the stans rhyno lite rubber rim strips.

    --
    Stephen

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •