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  1. #1
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    Threaded 1x1/8 Rigid Fork Long Enough For A 29" Wheel ?

    I converted my 1993 Kona Explosif to 27.5" wheels a couple years ago. I replaced the straight blade Project 2 fork with a Burley Cycles curved fork. It's got more room for a 27.5" wheel, but is not quite tall enough to clear a 29" wheel.

    I have a 120mm Moots titanium quill stem that's so sweet I can't bring myself to replace it. The ride quality combined with a Titec Hellbent titanium riser bar is pretty smooth. The obvious answer for a 27.5" rear/29" front would be a modern threadless fork but that would require ditching the Moots ti stem which I just can't do.

    Does anyone know of a threaded rigid fork that's 1x1/8, and tall enough to fit a 29" wheel ? A decent cyclocross fork might even do the trick. I'd be willing to go down to a Panaracer Fire Xc Pro 2.1 up front but nothing smaller. That's a good candidate for this type of situation though, as it's knob height and casing work well in tight spaces.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Threaded 1x1/8 Rigid Fork Long Enough For A 29" Wheel ?-toms-kona-explosif-650b-conversion-2013-3.jpg  


  2. #2
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    You could thread a threadless fork. Might open up your options.

  3. #3
    Phobia of petting zoos.
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    There's plenty of 1 1/8 threadless options out there, and a good LBS could cut it to length and cut a thread onto it. Has to be cut square to ensure to thread is cut straight otherwise it plays havoc with the headset.

    A cross fork might not have the clearance, of course that depends on the individual fork and tyre combo.

    I run a Voodoo fork on my 29er, it's basically suspension corrected for 100mm if you run a 26" wheel or 80mm for a 29er. Has v-brake posts that can be unbolted to shift up or down to accommodate either a 26 or 29 wheel, so it's a good fork for those of us who muck about with set up of bikes.

    Voodoo Cycles Zombie Rigid Fork > Components > Forks > Rigid Forks | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    Again, not threaded so a thread would need to be cut and finding a shop that will do that job will be the hardest part. Maybe a frame builder might be a better option for that job?

    Grumps

  4. #4
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    Waaaaaay easier to find a threadless Moots stem than to thread a threadless fork.

    Threading is not chasing - I've never even seen the tool that could keep the threads aligned with the fork crown.

  5. #5
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    I did the same thing on my Hot. 1993 Kona "HOT" 650B conversion | Retrobike
    With a 29er up front it may make the stem too high and feel a little wonky. Getting a threadless fork and using a negative degree stem would be a better choice.
    My buddy did that on his Moots YYB but it is a 26er in rear and a 650B up front.

  6. #6
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    mainlyfats, it can't be hard to find another Moots stem, but this one was only about 35 bucks. Yes, I got a hell of a deal.

    In my experience, the Moots ti quill stem is ALOT more compliant than the other threadless ti stem I have.

    Anyone else notice this difference in compliance ?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by phoenixbikes View Post
    mainlyfats, it can't be hard to find another Moots stem, but this one was only about 35 bucks. Yes, I got a hell of a deal.

    In my experience, the Moots ti quill stem is ALOT more compliant than the other threadless ti stem I have.

    Anyone else notice this difference in compliance ?
    I'm just going to say that you have riser bars and bar-ends - imagine one of those waving no-no fingered emoticons here.

    That stem might have been a good deal, but it doesn't serve what I see as a bike that doesn't fit you.

  8. #8
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    Um, the frame/bike fits me fine and I didn't mention my physical stats. I think it's safe to say Kona was thinking of people my height when they made my frame size. It's quite comfortable for me in fact. The only reason I am thinking about a 29" front wheel is to experiment with the handling, but not because the bike doesn't fit me.

    Bar-ends on riser bars are a fashion no-no for people who care about that sort of thing. I am more into function, even when it violates other peoples sensibilities. If I was concerned about that I'd have to rebuild all of my bikes in order to not rock the fashion boat. It's sure a good thing I am not forcing anyone to ride my bikes...

  9. #9
    1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
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    custom fork? Ask Walt

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Uncle Grumpy View Post
    There's plenty of 1 1/8 threadless options out there, and a good LBS could cut it to length and cut a thread onto it. Has to be cut square to ensure to thread is cut straight otherwise it plays havoc with the headset.

    The fork dies that most shops have are made for chasing existing threads or cutting a few more on a fork that is already threaded. Cutting an inch and a half of threads on an unthreaded fork with them is near impossible and produces very poor results. I know because I've (foolishly) attempted it multiple times.

  11. #11
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    I agree with your statement in regards to function first. Regarding the stem, yes it's a thing of beauty, but I personally don't want my stem compliant, especially if I'm using Ti bars with it. I want it to track well and like a little compliance in my bars.

    Best of luck.
    If you're lucky enough to be in the mountains,
    you're lucky enough.

  12. #12
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    Fork Repair...grafting a steerer tube - YouTube

    Rody shows how to lengthen a steer tube. I did this with a GT 3D fork but used a threadless extension. No reason you could not do it threaded.

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