Threaded 1x1/8 Rigid Fork Long Enough For A 29" Wheel ?
I converted my 1993 Kona Explosif to 27.5" wheels a couple years ago. I replaced the straight blade Project 2 fork with a Burley Cycles curved fork. It's got more room for a 27.5" wheel, but is not quite tall enough to clear a 29" wheel.
I have a 120mm Moots titanium quill stem that's so sweet I can't bring myself to replace it. The ride quality combined with a Titec Hellbent titanium riser bar is pretty smooth. The obvious answer for a 27.5" rear/29" front would be a modern threadless fork but that would require ditching the Moots ti stem which I just can't do.
Does anyone know of a threaded rigid fork that's 1x1/8, and tall enough to fit a 29" wheel ? A decent cyclocross fork might even do the trick. I'd be willing to go down to a Panaracer Fire Xc Pro 2.1 up front but nothing smaller. That's a good candidate for this type of situation though, as it's knob height and casing work well in tight spaces.
You could thread a threadless fork. Might open up your options.
There's plenty of 1 1/8 threadless options out there, and a good LBS could cut it to length and cut a thread onto it. Has to be cut square to ensure to thread is cut straight otherwise it plays havoc with the headset.
A cross fork might not have the clearance, of course that depends on the individual fork and tyre combo.
I run a Voodoo fork on my 29er, it's basically suspension corrected for 100mm if you run a 26" wheel or 80mm for a 29er. Has v-brake posts that can be unbolted to shift up or down to accommodate either a 26 or 29 wheel, so it's a good fork for those of us who muck about with set up of bikes.
Voodoo Cycles Zombie Rigid Fork > Components > Forks > Rigid Forks | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop
Again, not threaded so a thread would need to be cut and finding a shop that will do that job will be the hardest part. Maybe a frame builder might be a better option for that job?
Waaaaaay easier to find a threadless Moots stem than to thread a threadless fork.
Threading is not chasing - I've never even seen the tool that could keep the threads aligned with the fork crown.
I did the same thing on my Hot. 1993 Kona "HOT" 650B conversion | Retrobike
With a 29er up front it may make the stem too high and feel a little wonky. Getting a threadless fork and using a negative degree stem would be a better choice.
My buddy did that on his Moots YYB but it is a 26er in rear and a 650B up front.
mainlyfats, it can't be hard to find another Moots stem, but this one was only about 35 bucks. Yes, I got a hell of a deal.
In my experience, the Moots ti quill stem is ALOT more compliant than the other threadless ti stem I have.
Anyone else notice this difference in compliance ?
I'm just going to say that you have riser bars and bar-ends - imagine one of those waving no-no fingered emoticons here.
Originally Posted by phoenixbikes
That stem might have been a good deal, but it doesn't serve what I see as a bike that doesn't fit you.
Um, the frame/bike fits me fine and I didn't mention my physical stats. I think it's safe to say Kona was thinking of people my height when they made my frame size. It's quite comfortable for me in fact. The only reason I am thinking about a 29" front wheel is to experiment with the handling, but not because the bike doesn't fit me.
Bar-ends on riser bars are a fashion no-no for people who care about that sort of thing. I am more into function, even when it violates other peoples sensibilities. If I was concerned about that I'd have to rebuild all of my bikes in order to not rock the fashion boat. It's sure a good thing I am not forcing anyone to ride my bikes...
1*14*29*2.1 & 1*1*29*2.4
Originally Posted by Uncle Grumpy
The fork dies that most shops have are made for chasing existing threads or cutting a few more on a fork that is already threaded. Cutting an inch and a half of threads on an unthreaded fork with them is near impossible and produces very poor results. I know because I've (foolishly) attempted it multiple times.
I agree with your statement in regards to function first. Regarding the stem, yes it's a thing of beauty, but I personally don't want my stem compliant, especially if I'm using Ti bars with it. I want it to track well and like a little compliance in my bars.
Best of luck.
If you're lucky enough to be in the mountains,
you're lucky enough.
Fork Repair...grafting a steerer tube - YouTube
Rody shows how to lengthen a steer tube. I did this with a GT 3D fork but used a threadless extension. No reason you could not do it threaded.
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