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  1. #1
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    Stan's Arch + Tubeless Ardent 2.4 & 2.25

    Has anyone had any luck setting up tubeless on an Ardent 2.25 non-eXC/LUST/UST ?

    My 2.4 EXO is holding shape nicely since the tubeless conversion. The 2.25 non-eXC/LUST/UST is as flat as a pancake.

    This is my second set of tires converted to tubeless, and I checked for bubbles when I set them up.

    Are these sidewalls just too thin for tubeless?

    Has anyone has tubeless success with Ardent 2.25 non-eXC/LUST/UST ?

  2. #2
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    I wore one out tubeless. Set up fine. I don't think there is any problem with using that rim either. If it holds air at all, dunk it underwater and see where it's leaking.

  3. #3
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    Arch + Ardent 2.25

    Yep...I've got that setup both front and rear and haven't had any issues.

  4. #4
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    I'm running 2.4 tubeless both front and rear on Stan's flow EX. Easy setup and easy maint.

  5. #5
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    Running 2.25 on rear and 2.4 on front of Stans Flow EX's with no problems. Easy set up. Also running 2.25 ardent on rear of a Bontrager Rhythm comp rim, no problems. Did you go through the proper set up procedure? (shaking, rotating slightly, shaking again, repeat until you go all the way around, then laying on bucket as directed on Stans site). Stans has a good video setting up their tubeless system at:

    http://www.notubes.com/helpcenter/videopopup.php?id=3

  6. #6
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    2.25 Ardent on Stans Arch EX = NEVER had an issue and use the standard folding tires.
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  7. #7
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    I've run both sizes on stan's crest, while not the same rim, same basic bead design. Never had an issue with either size, and air up with my lezyne dirt floor pump...

  8. #8
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    I have got the Ardent 2.25 LUST & Crossmax 2.1 on Flow rims and never had a problem...no problems with setup etc

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the data, guys. This is the 2nd set of tubeless I set up with Stan's. The set up instructions were followed closely, and I made sure that I got no bubbles around the bead.

    I will likely have to go back and dunk the tire to see if I can find the source.

  10. #10
    Bro Mountainbiker
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    You are saying the tire has appeared to seat up completely, but is leaking air slowly?

    If you did the "shake and bake method" completely and thoroughly and used enough sealant to seal the bead up (1 scoop at least) then my money is that you have a leaking valve. Either the knurled nut is not tight enough, or you have air coming past the rubber sealing stopper on the rim bed, or your actual valve core is leaking.

    Like they mentioned, dunk it under water and watch for bubbles.

    At a CX race last year, i was having a problem with my rear tire during warm up. Slow leak but no punctures. it had actually been holding air for weeks ahead of this time. Dunked it in the lake pre race and found that my valve core had backed itself out a few turns.

    Moral of the story is doublecheck your valve cores. Once they are installed properly, they probably wont go anywhere. But from the factory, they are never tight enough. I have had 3 back out on me in the past....
    Raised in a Chicken-Coop by Chickens

  11. #11
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    I've set up several pairs of Ardent 2.4s, Hans Dampfs and Rampages tubeless on a couple of different sets of Stans Flows. Sometimes they seal quickly and easily, and sometimes it takes a lot of wheel shaking and extra sealant to seal up all the pinholes. If brushing water onto the sidewalls doesn't show you where the leaks are, then follow the suggestion to use your bathtub to locate the source of the leak.
    Use it, use it, use it while you still have it.

  12. #12
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    My 2.25 seep a lot through the sidewall, never really bubbled with soapy water, just barely showed the whites through the threads.

  13. #13
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    Here's a quick update to the thread.

    I used the dunk tank method to check for leaks on the front and rear tires. This showed a leak around the entire circumference of the bead on one side of the rear tire and a similar leak around the bead on one side of the front tire. Each stem was fine. I was surprised by this result since, after checking the beads after the original installation, there were no leaks evident via soapy water.

    To fix the leaky beads, I redid the Stan's shake method and allowed each tire to sit horizontally on each side for at least 10 min after shaking. Inspection in the dunk tank now showed no signs of leaking.

    However, instead of my rear tire completely flattening in one week, it decided to completely flatten in two weeks. When I refilled it with CO2, I noticed the side walls had been sweating Stan's.

    I resolved to remove the rear tire for further inspection. I found that there was no audible trace of the 3 oz. of Stan's from the initial installation. I added two oz. of Stan's, and did the shake method. This time I let each side sit horizontally over night in an attempt to seal up the side walls. After two night's worth of sealing, the side walls had a sheen of Stan's which I wiped clean.

    So far, the 2.25 rear Ardent tire is holding air as well as front 2.4 Ardent. I'll have to check via pressure gauge for a measurable comparison. The sidewalls of the rear are now showing minimal signs of sweating Stan's.

    After this experience, I have decided to only use beefier side walls for tubeless applications going forward. I have had zero issues with the Hans Dampfs that I converted to tubeless before this experience with the non-EXO Ardent. I believe the side walls in the 2.25 non-EXO are just not robust enough for tubeless applications.

  14. #14
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    The use of CO2 with stans will alter its pH, causing the latex in the solution to prematurely coagulate. I believe this might be your issue.

    FYI, I frequently run 120 tpi tires without sidewall protection tubeless with sealant without problems.
    Tire Design & Development Engineer. The opinions expressed in this forum are solely my own.

  15. #15
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    Didn't know that about CO2 & Stan's. I'll have to look into that.

    My Ardent rear tire is 60 tpi. ref. Ardent

  16. #16
    Its got what plants crave
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    It took my Maxxis Crossmarks like a month to completely stop seeping through the sidewalls!
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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim311 View Post
    It took my Maxxis Crossmarks like a month to completely stop seeping through the sidewalls!
    What model Crossmark? 60tpi or 120tpi sidewalls?

  18. #18
    Dirty South Underdog
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photogorama View Post
    However, instead of my rear tire completely flattening in one week, it decided to completely flatten in two weeks. When I refilled it with CO2, I noticed the side walls had been sweating Stan's.
    I just want to make sure I'm reading this incorrectly...

    Are you saying that A) you hadn't put any air in the tire in one/two weeks and it went flat? Or B) You air your tires up on a regular basis, but the rear flatted during a ride, after two weeks?

    Just want to clarify.
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  19. #19
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    Leaks were slow enough that air during the ride was not an issue, but week to week total loss was unacceptable.

    Aired up, went for a ride, flatted after one week during storage. Aired up, went for a ride, flatted after two weeks during storage.

    It is holding air nicely now; not perfect, but acceptable because I routinely check air before every ride. There is still some minimal side wall sweating of Stan's from the rear 2.25 60 TPI.

  20. #20
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    I have two 2.4 Ardents on Crest 29er rims with no issues.
    I tried putting a 2.4 x 26 Ardent on an Arch 26er and I had lots of burps immediately.
    I might try putting it on again but I've heard others with bead issues due to the very gummy side wall and narrow rims.

  21. #21
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    hi there, can someone help me with that.

    I want to make tubeless the Ardent 29er 2.25 non-eXC/LUST/UST, because the lust is too expensive for me.

    the rims are ZTR Flow and i intend to use joe's ECO sealant with its 19-25mm inner rim strips

    Is it better to choose the wire bead ardent or the folding one.
    I think the wire option will be better, what do you think?

  22. #22
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    I use folding beads for my Ardents and have never had a problem.
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pauldotcom View Post
    I use folding beads for my Ardents and have never had a problem.
    I' ve done some search and I know that many have success with the non Lust Ardent.

    But I was wondering about the wire bead option because its even cheaper.
    will I have problems with wire or the foldable one is more "suitable" for tubeless conversion?

    I think foldable and wire option both have same 60TPI single ply compound
    http://www.maxxis.com/Bicycle/Mountain/ardent.aspx

    and little more weight isn't problem with me as long its cheaper, (I dont race, just exercise, and do some trails for fun .. so why not wire option...

    Its logical to think that if the wire bead option is well rounded hold the tire to the rim even at low tire pressure more easily than folding option, but it depends the tire.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by ocean_29; 11-21-2012 at 02:41 PM.

  24. #24
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    I think most buy the folding because of weight.
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  25. #25
    A Baker St. Muse
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photogorama View Post
    Has anyone had any luck setting up tubeless on an Ardent 2.25 non-eXC/LUST/UST ?
    I run an Ardent in the rear for the summer on Stans Arch, works no problem.

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