Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678910 LastLast
Results 351 to 400 of 477
  1. #351
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    310
    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    The body for my Hope hub came in yesterday. And tomorrow my wheels will be build. And after that I guess it will takes ages for the weekend to come



    I got to thinking after I read somewhere that you tighten the whole cassette on the cassette body, how do you get it off? It doesn't seem like there is any cassette body exposed to grab while loosening the cassette. I'm sure there is a way but I just can't picture it in my head.
    I've been looking at the different gear ratios compared to the classic 2x10 and I think it is genius and can't wait to try it out in the spring.
    RIDE MF RIDE,
    Scotto

  2. #352
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    287
    It comes loose the same way you tighten it on the hub! Just use the same tool as you now use for Shimano and SRAM.

    BTW, it wasn't a direct fit to my Hope hub. I needed a new 142x12 driveside adapter. In the pic above you see a adapter which has 2 steps (rings) towards the freehub. The cassette will lock itself on the biggest step (ring). I have somebody at work get rid of the second step (ring) almost completely and it works now. The only part of the secong ring that can stay is the part that will be inside of the freehub.

    I asked Hope and they will come with a seperate adapter for 142x12 XD freehub.
    Last edited by Betzel; 12-15-2012 at 11:48 PM.

  3. #353
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    25
    Any word on when the Mavic freehub will be available?

  4. #354
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mr. Lynch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Posts
    3,116
    I did a long ride today which included over 3k of climbing. 32t front 42t rear was plenty for all the climbs, but i could see dropping the front to 28t for some summer rides that have 4-6k of climbing.

  5. #355
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    I'd have the opposite problem. I'd need to buy a bigger chainring like a 36 or maybe even a 38. There's no mountains around here.

  6. #356
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,636
    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    I'd have the opposite problem. I'd need to buy a bigger chainring like a 36 or maybe even a 38. There's no mountains around here.
    I'm always curious about this. Could you elaborate? I'm good for 30 mph with 32x11 on a 29er. There's no way I can push that on the flats with trail tires at 25 psi. The only time I see it is on a sizable paved downhill.

    I always assumed the people looking for higher gearing had the balls/skills to be hitting 30mph on a downhill trail and be interested in pedaling to go faster.

  7. #357
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm good for 30 mph with 32x11 on a 29er.
    Hmmm, what would your cadence have to be to do that speed? Anything over 100 and I'd shift to a harder gear. Things get weird for me spinning above 120 rpm.
    I think your calculation might be off. Maybe mine is off
    30 miles an hour is 48 k. No one is riding at 48 k for very long on their mtn.bike even on a flat paved road. 50 k is how fast the world's best time trial guys ride on their TT bikes on paved roads. I'd spin out of my 32/11 way before I got to 48k on my 26" HT. I never use my 32 on any paved roads including hills. I can ride in my big ring 44 and big cog 32 and climb everything around here if I feel ok. I never use my granny and only use my middle ring when I'm fried, on a trail I don't know or riding with Expert class guys.

    According to this Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator I'd need a 38 ring with the 10-42 cassette to have the gears I use/need. A 32 chain ring wouldn't work for me where I live. We have hills but no mountains.

  8. #358
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,395
    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm always curious about this. Could you elaborate? I'm good for 30 mph with 32x11 on a 29er. There's no way I can push that on the flats with trail tires at 25 psi. The only time I see it is on a sizable paved downhill.

    I always assumed the people looking for higher gearing had the balls/skills to be hitting 30mph on a downhill trail and be interested in pedaling to go faster.
    There are a few places on trails that I really like the 40+ MPH down his sections & I wish I could pedal faster, but the thing is they are over so quick & if having to choose I would rather have my bike geared for the rest of the trails.

    I'm really liking the XX1, I have only bothered to get 28,30 & 32 chainrings at this stage & it works well for me.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  9. #359
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    1,636
    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    Hmmm, what would your cadence have to be to do that speed? Anything over 100 and I'd shift to a harder gear. Things get weird for me spinning above 120 rpm.
    That's as measured by my Garmin going down a long, steep hill on the road. I certainly can't push that on the flats, which is why I'm always curious about the people that ask for taller gearing. There are absolutely zero trails near me where I'd feel the need to pedal if I were going that speed.

    As for the math:
    30 mph = 0.5 miles/min = 31680 inches/min
    29" * PI = 91.1 inches
    31680/91.1 = 347.75 rpm (wheel)
    347.75 * 11/32 = 119.5 rpm (crank)

  10. #360
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    Yeah, that's too high rpm. We're both right. I wouldn't pedal that fast. I could but it would feel awkward. I'd shift to a bigger cog/chainring and have a slower cadence.
    There's no way I'd be able to use a 32/10 as my biggest gear, even my 39/11 on my cross bike wouldn't be high enough. I can use my 53 chainring on a few trails around here and I can almost climb my hills in my 39/27 on my cross bike.
    It all depends on where you live and your fitness. I guess it's pretty flat around here. The guys on double ring XX can climb everything in the 39 big ring, they never use the 26 unless they're hurting.

  11. #361
    mtbr member
    Reputation: GTR2ebike's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,872
    anyone with grip shifters getting accidental shifts?

  12. #362
    mtbr member
    Reputation: OldHouseMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    3,442
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  13. #363
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,395
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    Yes it will be because it is only the cassette side that needed the full redesign & the freehub still has to fit into the same hub & work the same.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  14. #364
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Posts
    190
    what lubes are people using?

  15. #365
    mtbr member
    Reputation: vapezilla's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Posts
    230
    1x11 that's ten gears more then I need.

  16. #366
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    175
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    As an FYI, I got from one of the UK Hope Techshops, the special thinner pawl springs (which are less heavily sprung) and once swopped out, makes the hub a good deal quieter. If anything it seems to be too quiet now as I now have to use my bell to warn hikers that are up ahead.

  17. #367
    beater
    Reputation: evasive's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    4,642
    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    Yeah, it's the pawl springs, not the body. Hope has softer, quieter springs now. I replaced my freehub body this summer and it came with the new springs, so I'd expect the XX1 bodies to have them too. They are noticeably quieter, although not what you'd call silent. Cheap, easy part to replace if it bothers you. Personally, I miss the noise. People hear me coming, which is nice on multi-use trails.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

    Riding in Helena? Everything you need to know, right here.

  18. #368
    mtbr member
    Reputation: krispy@go-ride.com's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,001
    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    I'd have the opposite problem. I'd need to buy a bigger chainring like a 36 or maybe even a 38. There's no mountains around here.
    I'm sure you're aware of this, but they offer rings from 28-38. Jerome Clementz used a 38t on his 26" Cannondale to win some of the biggest Enduro races in the country.
    Santa Cruz Bronson 2 27.5/Rockshox Pike/Sram XX1
    Salsa Mukluk/Rockshox Bluto/Sram X1

  19. #369
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    Oh yeah, I know. I've already done the math and commented elsewhere in this thread. I'm not complaining about XX1. I think it's a great idea. I'm seriously thinking about buying it for next year but I'll have to spend another 100 dollars for a bigger chain ring.

  20. #370
    mtbr member
    Reputation: krispy@go-ride.com's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,001
    I was just watching the Sram XX1 cross country video on their site, some good info..

    They mentioned Kulhavy (29er) using a 36t at the olympic games, and then dropping down 2 teeth for the world championships.

    Shurter (27.5) mentioned using a 38t.
    Santa Cruz Bronson 2 27.5/Rockshox Pike/Sram XX1
    Salsa Mukluk/Rockshox Bluto/Sram X1

  21. #371
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    Cool. I'm on a 26".

    *creepy voice*

    but I want Nino's 27.5 Scott.

  22. #372
    Trail Ninja
    Reputation: Varaxis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    4,604
    The SRAM guys at the 2x10 experience demo events advised people to stay in the big ring when riding trails. Didn't spend 2 hours on it to test endurance, but it wasn't hard to totally avoid the granny ring. Not surprised to hear people running XX1 with bigger rings.

    Don't forget that a majority of rear suspension designs were designed to work best with a 32T ring. Browse this site if you want to read how a well-known guy analyzes different suspension designs: Linkage Design

  23. #373
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Posts
    310
    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    It comes loose the same way you tighten it on the hub! Just use the same tool as you now use for Shimano and SRAM.

    BTW, it wasn't a direct fit to my Hope hub. I needed a new 142x12 driveside adapter. In the pic above you see a adapter which has 2 steps (rings) towards the freehub. The cassette will lock itself on the biggest step (ring). I have somebody at work get rid of the second step (ring) almost completely and it works now. The only part of the secong ring that can stay is the part that will be inside of the freehub.

    I asked Hope and they will come with a seperate adapter for 142x12 XD freehub.
    I caught a video somewhere that shows how it goes on, the lock ring and inner sleeve are retained inside the cassette. The outside 42 ring lock on the body with the inner sleeve tightening everything on. Very cool stuff!
    RIDE MF RIDE,
    Scotto

  24. #374
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    1

    X9 9spd/ XX Brakes

    dont know where to put this as i am new to this forum, but i have an X9 9spd shifter and an Avid XX read brake setup. will the matchmaker x work for this setup? if not, what specifically do i need?

  25. #375
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    It comes loose the same way you tighten it on the hub! Just use the same tool as you now use for Shimano and SRAM.

    BTW, it wasn't a direct fit to my Hope hub. I needed a new 142x12 driveside adapter. In the pic above you see a adapter which has 2 steps (rings) towards the freehub. The cassette will lock itself on the biggest step (ring). I have somebody at work get rid of the second step (ring) almost completely and it works now. The only part of the secong ring that can stay is the part that will be inside of the freehub.

    I asked Hope and they will come with a seperate adapter for 142x12 XD freehub.
    I'm in process of sourcing parts for old Pro 2 to XD driver, so you need to take drive side adapter from Pro 2 EVO to lathe and trim off the wider lip to make the cassette fit?

  26. #376
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,395
    Quote Originally Posted by powerchord85 View Post
    dont know where to put this as i am new to this forum, but i have an X9 9spd shifter and an Avid XX read brake setup. will the matchmaker x work for this setup? if not, what specifically do i need?
    Hi, Yes the X type will fit the shifter & the brake.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  27. #377
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by needajob View Post
    Got my new xx1 cranks yesterday and ran them with a 2012 X9 9 speed shifter and derailleur along with a 1090 chain and Shimano 770 9 speed 11-34 cassette. No chain guide or n-stop. Went 12 miles and didn't drop chain on stuff I normally would. Shifted very well and it was very smooth and quiet. This is a great alternative to my old set up with bash guard and n-stop. Got them at Universal for $285. I added $15 more and used VIP15 to get 15% off $300. I the way I look at it I paid $240 for them. Not sure I want to spend the $$$ to go with the full xx1 set up. I must just stick with the X9 and go up to 10 speed and put the 9 speed on my other bike.
    So... I was wondering here. I tried to order XX1 cranks to replace my 3x10 drivetrain but my supplier said that I need a different chain with XX1 and then it wont work with my XTR rear mech. I rarely need the 3x10 so I want to change to 1x10 and I would love to use the XX1 cranks so I don't have to use chain guide on front. Ideally the full groupset would be perfect but I'm an a student budget

    I guess the cranks should run fine with normal 10spd chain, as I believe the inner width is the same afterall?

  28. #378
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Posts
    985
    Quote Originally Posted by tezi View Post
    So... I was wondering here. I tried to order XX1 cranks to replace my 3x10 drivetrain but my supplier said that I need a different chain with XX1 and then it wont work with my XTR rear mech. I rarely need the 3x10 so I want to change to 1x10 and I would love to use the XX1 cranks so I don't have to use chain guide on front. Ideally the full groupset would be perfect but I'm an a student budget

    I guess the cranks should run fine with normal 10spd chain, as I believe the inner width is the same afterall?
    I just talked to my LBS and got the go ahead on the XX1 cranks to replace my current XT cranks that I'm running 1x10. . I'm still using the MRP1x until I go full XX1.

    You will still need some type of front guide to keep the chain on the ring.

  29. #379
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by azpoolguy View Post
    I just talked to my LBS and got the go ahead on the XX1 cranks to replace my current XT cranks that I'm running 1x10. . I'm still using the MRP1x until I go full XX1.

    You will still need some type of front guide to keep the chain on the ring.
    That's nice. I have the XTR shadow+ so I'll try without the guide first and see if it works.

  30. #380
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    99
    I have over 100 miles on my xx1 cranks with a 9 speed chain, x9 short cage derailleur and shimano 770 9 speed cassette. I am not using a chain guide and have not dropped the chain. Good news for those who want to start with just the cranks.

  31. #381
    mtbr member
    Reputation: modifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,810
    So does anyone have a weight on the XX1 crankset? W/O ring for comparison sake. Does it only come for 1 width BB (73?) and length (175?) Threaded or press in?

    I want my next crank set to be as light as possible and am also thinking of XX1. So if they can go together.... great.

    Specialized has come up with some light cranks lately I think but I haven't checked into it.

    I'm assuming the XX1 rings are dedicated.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  32. #382
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    If you really want to know which crank is the lightest that will work with XX1 you might have to wait a bit. It will probably be either Lightning (Specialized) or Hollowgrams. I'd wait a month and ask again in the weight weenie forum.

  33. #383
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    463
    But the lightning or hollowgram are double the cost of xx1. I just saw a used sworks go on ebay for 400 shipped. New xx1 is $285.

    Who has a weight?

  34. #384
    mtbr member
    Reputation: skyak's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    271
    My 175MM GXP 168 Q Factor XX1 crank weighed 555 grams with 28 tooth ring and without bottom bracket.

  35. #385
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by needajob View Post
    I have over 100 miles on my xx1 cranks with a 9 speed chain, x9 short cage derailleur and shimano 770 9 speed cassette. I am not using a chain guide and have not dropped the chain. Good news for those who want to start with just the cranks.
    Is the X9 derailleur a type 2 ?

  36. #386
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    99
    No it's not type 2. It's a short cage x9 model just before the type 2. No problems at all.

  37. #387
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    10
    you'll never need a chain guide. sram guarantees it. Even Sram's enduro bikes do their insane gravity stuff without a chain guide and its never come off.

  38. #388
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Posts
    569
    Specialized look to be ~ 40g lighter (based on this thread). No idea when their spider will be widely available though.

    2013 Stumpy EVO S-Works 29er




    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    But the lightning or hollowgram are double the cost of xx1. I just saw a used sworks go on ebay for 400 shipped. New xx1 is $285.

    Who has a weight?
    Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic
    - Arthur C. Clarke

  39. #389
    mtbr member
    Reputation: limba's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    2,939
    You'll never need a chain guide. Sram guarantees it. Even Andy Schleck can ride it and almost never drop a chain.

  40. #390
    Trail Ninja
    Reputation: Varaxis's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    4,604
    More hype for XX1. It just won an award for product of the year from VitalMTB.

    2012 MTB Product of the Year, Vital MTB Shreddy Award - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB

  41. #391
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,395
    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    More hype for XX1. It just won an award for product of the year from VitalMTB.

    2012 MTB Product of the Year, Vital MTB Shreddy Award - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB
    Yes it is so nice to use.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  42. #392
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Posts
    287
    +1 Muzzanic. Hopefully my second ride this weekend. First ride was amazing. Love it!

  43. #393
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    301
    Has anyone ridden XX! with grip shift yet?
    Parlee Z5
    Alliance 29er

  44. #394
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RobRobideau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  45. #395
    mtbr member
    Reputation: modifier's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    1,810
    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    How thick is the spacer? Is it an odd diameter or can you change out with another? Normal spacers are what,1/8"? 1/8" isn't going to give you 3 cogs of alignment correction. If it's that off I'd run no spacer on the right and move it to the left and see what happens.

    Something odd is going on somewhere. I'd call Sram.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  46. #396
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    1,007
    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    +1 Muzzanic. Hopefully my second ride this weekend. First ride was amazing. Love it!
    Yup. Game. Changer.

  47. #397
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    389
    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    And is your BB 73 or 83mm, if yes, do you have 2.5mm spacers there? If yes, remove them, 2.5mm spacers are for 68mm BB only.

  48. #398
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,395
    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    We will need more Info.

    What bike are you fitting it to, Not sure that it matters but are you sure the BB is in the right way ?

    I have not fitted a BB30 XX1 crank but have fitted the X0 BB30 & I'm sure it is the same crank.

    There are options with dust cover seals, You haven't got them all fitted have you ?

    What side fo you have the wavey washer fitted ?

    Has the guy read the instructions, I have never had a problem fitting Sram BB30 & I have always fitted the wide spacer & never need to machine it.

    I think you may need to take it to another bike shop.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  49. #399
    mtbr member
    Reputation: RobRobideau's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    27
    Thanks for the responses. The spacers, washers, etc. are all in the spots indicated by the instructions. The drive side spacer is ~10-12mm thick. If the spacer is moved to the other side, the chainring is too close to the frame. If it is removed entirely, the crankset can slide back and forth. We can get several MM of adjustment from the non-drive-side threaded spacer, but because of the large drive-side spacer, it doesn't change anything on the driveside. I'll try to get some more specific measurements and pics today.
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  50. #400
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    463
    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Thanks for the responses. The spacers, washers, etc. are all in the spots indicated by the instructions. The drive side spacer is ~10-12mm thick. If the spacer is moved to the other side, the chainring is too close to the frame. If it is removed entirely, the crankset can slide back and forth. We can get several MM of adjustment from the non-drive-side threaded spacer, but because of the large drive-side spacer, it doesn't change anything on the driveside. I'll try to get some more specific measurements and pics today.
    Sounds like you have 73mm bottom bracket and are not using the preload adjustment properly.

    Before installing the non drive side crank through the bottom bracket, hand tighten the knob that will sit next to the non drive side bearing when inserted. Insert spindle, do not use that 10-12mm spacer, attach the drive side and then go back to that knob thing on non drive side to remove play. That knob is called preload adjuster and is the solution to your problem.

Page 8 of 10 FirstFirst ... 45678910 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •