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  1. #251
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    Smile

    Hope just delivered their new driver for XX1 to me, very cool.


    Quote Originally Posted by pulser View Post
    I think you might be missing the point. From what I understand about the group Sram wants it to be used for every thing from down hill to world cup XC racers to every day riders. XC racers will want the 10 and as well as the 42.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram's New XX1 Group-image.jpg  


  2. #252
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montiemilner View Post
    Hope just delivered their new driver for XX1 to me, very cool.
    Very good, I'm loving my XX1 on my new bike.

    There is still so many people that don't under stand the XX1 & how tuneable it is buy just chaging front rings
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  3. #253
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Mine ships Monday too. ive had a bike fully built for 2 months just waiting for a drivetrain!
    HAHA! Me to, I'm sick of road riding!!!

  4. #254
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    Will a XX1 crankset and chainring work with a 1x9 setup?

    The literature says it will work with 1x10 but says nothing about 1x9.

  5. #255
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Mailloux View Post
    Will a XX1 crankset and chainring work with a 1x9 setup?

    The literature says it will work with 1x10 but says nothing about 1x9.
    Hi yes it will
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  6. #256
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Hi yes it will
    Thanks!

    One more question, does anyone know of any plans to make direct mount bash guards. Lone thing that has kept me going to spiderless crank / BlingRing route is that I don't have ICSG tabs on my frame and no ability to run any sort of trouble free bash guard with that setup

  7. #257
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    Hi
    Well I went & rode some trails last night that would be the steepest up & steepest down that I can find in my area & man the XX1 works well, It is going to be fine for me & where I ride.

    There was lots of ruff with the bike bouncing around & chain didn't even come close to looking like it was going.
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  8. #258
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    Anyone using xx1 crankset for SS? And if so, how bout the xx1 chain?

  9. #259
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    Stopped by the LBS today
    they didn't get an email saying mine will ship yet
    Oh well

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  10. #260
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Hi yes it will
    Hey Muzzanic, when you say it will work with 1x9, do you mean you still don't need a chain guard / it won't drop the chain on a 9-speed RD even though it's not Type 2?

    I thought it was the combination of the chain-ring teeth and the Type 2 that kept the chain in place with no chain guard. I was thinking about getting the XX1 crankset for my 1x9, but it's a waste of money if I still need a chain guard.

    Thanks

  11. #261
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbco1975 View Post
    Hey Muzzanic, when you say it will work with 1x9, do you mean you still don't need a chain guard / it won't drop the chain on a 9-speed RD even though it's not Type 2?

    I thought it was the combination of the chain-ring teeth and the Type 2 that kept the chain in place with no chain guard. I was thinking about getting the XX1 crankset for my 1x9, but it's a waste of money if I still need a chain guard.

    Thanks
    Hi sorry I thought you wanted the crank for the chain rings that you could get.

    You would need a Type 2 rear derailieur, that you can not get in 9 speed .

    You would still want a chain guide IMO.
    .
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  12. #262
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    Anyone fitted a gxp to a Santa cruz yet?

    Specifically a tallboy c - cannot get rid of the play in the the crank

    All instructions say I don't need any spacers but it's not having it

  13. #263
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    Quote Originally Posted by danridesbikes View Post
    Anyone fitted a gxp to a Santa cruz yet?

    Specifically a tallboy c - cannot get rid of the play in the the crank

    All instructions say I don't need any spacers but it's not having it
    Can't see why TB would be any different, I take it you have the proper GXP Bottom bracket & you have the splined seal washer on the LH side ?
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  14. #264
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    Yup ceramic SRAM bb - yup spacer is installed

    Will try with 1x spacer on the drive side

  15. #265
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    Quote Originally Posted by danridesbikes View Post
    Yup ceramic SRAM bb - yup spacer is installed

    Will try with 1x spacer on the drive side
    Un like all the none sram cranks, The RH side has nothing to do with it.

    The crank is held in place by the LH bearing that is wider than all the other none GXP bottom brackets, so you problen is on the LH side.
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  16. #266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Montiemilner View Post
    Hope just delivered their new driver for XX1 to me, very cool.
    I just ordered a Beargrease frame set but have yet to find an online source for the Hope XD driver. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

  17. #267
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    Just got my XX1 today it is super smooth not a single chain slap or drop! Love it!!!

  18. #268
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdubb12 View Post
    Just got my XX1 today it is super smooth not a single chain slap or drop! Love it!!!
    Yes I have got a few rides in on mine now & have been hitting the trails that would give it the most problem & it has been faultless.
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  19. #269
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    Got to handle XX1 in person tonight at the JensonUSA tech demo. I figured I'd share what I learned, from sort of a neutral stand point, treating all hype with a healthy amount of speculation.

    The Type 2's cage "tension" just feels crazy high. I was thinking it was "locked" (I never handled it before, even a XO or X9 version), until I gave it much much more force to open it up. The cage lock button is a very cool idea. You use it when you want to install/remove your wheel, by pushing the cage forward and you press the Lock button, which is actually a pin, which goes into a cut-out in the cage, and holds it forward. The 12T jockey wheels kind of stand out. They aren't made of the slick Delrin material I'm used to seeing, but instead a hard plasticy composite material, with the "X-Sync" tooth shaping like found on the chainring. Also only the outboard half of the cage is carbon it seems, with the inner half metal.

    The cassette feels so light for how massive it is. I've used an XX cassette before and this didn't fail to impress me yet again, with how artfully crafted it is. The difference here is how it locks onto the hub's cassette body. It presses up against it, yet not flush like a normal cassette. Instead, you use a lockring tool to screw it on, and it pulls itself into the grooves. Super simple.

    SRAM rep gave me some numbers and the prices seemed higher than what I've been paying for XX (I tend to bargain hunt). How cheap they said the XX1 chain's MSRP is, was kind of shock, with how low it was, especially after how they claimed it lasted 4x longer than their previous chains ($59). They say it lasts 4x longer due to some "hard chrome" coating they put in the inner bits. It looked pretty narrow. That's one thing I'm looking forward to on trickle down. The chainrings were kind of expensive, $90-125 or so, depending on how many teeth it comes in. They say they're CNC'd 7000 series alu, with a special hard wearing coating.

    Not sure if I'd pair it with triggers, personally. I tried riding pseudo 1x, by simply keeping it in the middle ring, and found myself dumping massive number of gears unnaturally. That made me look forward to checking out the twist action of the GripShift, and how it feels jumping through multiple gears. Thought that it felt really light and smooth at pulling cable, with distinct clicks between gears, but felt like the clicks were more like big speed bumps when releasing cable.

    I was shown what looked to be a XD Driver body made for a SRAM hub, with its pawls missing. It had a sealed bearing hanging out on 1 side and a built in rubber flap where it meets the hub shell. Looks like the end cap doesn't press fit on, but is loose and is held by the thru axle. Can't really judge other brand's version on the one I saw, but they claim that a lot of brands have signed on to create their own hub bodies that are compatible with the XX1 cassette.

    One of the Jenson guys added in an anecdotal story about SRAM carbon crankarms (XO, in this story), saying that they felt stiffer than XTR crankarms, which successfully converted a heavy hard-riding Shimano die hard. They say it comes in 168? and 154? Q-factors and I think it comes with heel rub tape pre-installed.

    The rep claimed SRAM to have shipped out only 1000 groupsets globally for their November shipment (~400 to the US), and plan on ramping up production to double that figure each month.

    Looks like you're gonna have to basically buy an entire gruppo, as they're all designed to work together. $1450 MSRP. While they might have said that to get the finest experience, you must run things together with their older gruppos, they really emphasize it for this one. Someone asked the rep if you can put the XX1 chainrings on a non-XX1 crankset and she said no, and then corrected herself saying that not compatible at this time.

    Looking forward to seeing this on complete bikes, particularly ones that are designed specifically for it, no FD and no compromises for fitting triple crankarms and also allowing tire clearance. Maybe we can see some lighter 29ers that feature tighter rear ends. A lot of naysayers might just be sold on it come 2014, when this actually gets out under more riders and the word spreads. It has quite a bit of promise and, from what I can tell, it looks like it can deliver. If a 1x system was a maybe, for your bike, fitness, and trails, XX1 might make that "maybe", if the hype can be believed, into a "why did I wait so long to go for a proper quality 1x setup?" There are those that feel like there's no chance that 1x would work for them, and I don't think XX1 will work well for them. It seems to target a limited number of riders, particularly those who "trail ride", rather than ride up and down mountains.

    I didn't get to see it installed on a bike, so I'm not sold on it yet (I'd like to ride on it first), but the SRAM rep said that there might be a surprise at a future tech demo when she gets a truck and heads down to San Diego. Would've at least liked to feel the chain tension. Already seen it in action in the vids and can't really judge shifting action in a bike stand.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 11-28-2012 at 10:26 PM.

  20. #270
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    It rides very nice.

    When I 1st felt the tension of the derailieur I thought wow that is a bit tight, But on the bike it feels fine.

    The system is quiet running & i'm not just talking about lack of chain slap, The shifts are very chrisp & with the triggers I often choose to drop 2 gears at a time with no problems & don't feel the need to drop more at a time.

    With the std 32 front ring & 42 on the rear it is much the same as the 26/36 I ran on my XX group & on most my trails didn't run out of gears.

    I ordered a 28 & 30 tooth front ring before I rode the bike & don't really feel the need to run them, But will fit one or other on the large climb days just because I can.

    I have been only doing trails that i would think would be the hardest for the chain to stay on with no chain guide to see if I need to order 1 befor christmas but it has been rock solid.

    I will be selling all my 2x10 drive train bit of which I have many & staying with XX1 now that I have ridden it & am very happy with it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    Got to handle XX1 in person tonight at the JensonUSA tech demo. I figured I'd share what I learned, from sort of a neutral stand point, treating all hype with a healthy amount of speculation.

    The Type 2's cage "tension" just feels crazy high. I was thinking it was "locked" (I never handled it before, even a XO or X9 version), until I gave it much much more force to open it up. The cage lock button is a very cool idea. You use it when you want to install/remove your wheel, by pushing the cage forward and you press the Lock button, which is actually a pin, which goes into a cut-out in the cage, and holds it forward. The 12T jockey wheels kind of stand out. They aren't made of the slick Delrin material I'm used to seeing, but instead a hard plasticy composite material, with the "X-Sync" tooth shaping like found on the chainring. Also only the outboard half of the cage is carbon it seems, with the inner half metal.

    The cassette feels so light for how massive it is. I've used an XX cassette before and this didn't fail to impress me yet again, with how artfully crafted it is. The difference here is how it locks onto the hub's cassette body. It presses up against it, yet not flush like a normal cassette. Instead, you use a lockring tool to screw it on, and it pulls itself into the grooves. Super simple.

    SRAM rep gave me some numbers and the prices seemed higher than what I've been paying for XX (I tend to bargain hunt). How cheap they said the XX1 chain's MSRP is, was kind of shock, with how low it was, especially after how they claimed it lasted 4x longer than their previous chains ($59). They say it lasts 4x longer due to some "hard chrome" coating they put in the inner bits. It looked pretty narrow. That's one thing I'm looking forward to on trickle down. The chainrings were kind of expensive, $90-125 or so, depending on how many teeth it comes in. They say they're CNC'd 7000 series alu, with a special hard wearing coating.

    Not sure if I'd pair it with triggers, personally. I tried riding pseudo 1x, by simply keeping it in the middle ring, and found myself dumping massive number of gears unnaturally. That made me look forward to checking out the twist action of the GripShift, and how it feels jumping through multiple gears. Thought that it felt really light and smooth at pulling cable, with distinct clicks between gears, but felt like the clicks were more like big speed bumps when releasing cable.

    I was shown what looked to be a XD Driver body made for a SRAM hub, with its pawls missing. It had a sealed bearing hanging out on 1 side and a built in rubber flap where it meets the hub shell. Looks like the end cap doesn't press fit on, but is loose and is held by the thru axle. Can't really judge other brand's version on the one I saw, but they claim that a lot of brands have signed on to create their own hub bodies that are compatible with the XX1 cassette.

    One of the Jenson guys added in an anecdotal story about SRAM carbon crankarms (XO, in this story), saying that they felt stiffer than XTR crankarms, which successfully converted a heavy hard-riding Shimano die hard. They say it comes in 168? and 154? Q-factors and I think it comes with heel rub tape pre-installed.

    The rep claimed SRAM to have shipped out only 1000 groupsets globally for their November shipment (~400 to the US), and plan on ramping up production to double that figure each month.

    Looks like you're gonna have to basically buy an entire gruppo, as they're all designed to work together. $1450 MSRP. While they might have said that to get the finest experience, you must run things together with their older gruppos, they really emphasize it for this one. Someone asked the rep if you can put the XX1 chainrings on a non-XX1 crankset and she said no, and then corrected herself saying that not compatible at this time.

    Looking forward to seeing this on complete bikes, particularly ones that are designed specifically for it, no FD and no compromises for fitting triple crankarms and also allowing tire clearance. Maybe we can see some lighter 29ers that feature tighter rear ends. A lot of naysayers might just be sold on it come 2014, when this actually gets out under more riders and the word spreads. It has quite a bit of promise and, from what I can tell, it looks like it can deliver. If a 1x system was a maybe, for your bike, fitness, and trails, XX1 might make that "maybe", if the hype can be believed, into a "why did I wait so long to go for a proper quality 1x setup?" There are those that feel like there's no chance that 1x would work for them, and I don't think XX1 will work well for them. It seems to target a limited number of riders, particularly those who "trail ride", rather than ride up and down mountains.

    I didn't get to see it installed on a bike, so I'm not sold on it yet (I'd like to ride on it first), but the SRAM rep said that there might be a surprise at a future tech demo when she gets a truck and heads down to San Diego. Would've at least liked to feel the chain tension. Already seen it in action in the vids and can't really judge shifting action in a bike stand.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram's New XX1 Group-green-rdo-xx-001.jpg  

    Sram's New XX1 Group-green-rdo-xx-004.jpg  

    Sram's New XX1 Group-green-rdo-xx-003.jpg  

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  21. #271
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    I'm guessing the tension of the rear derailuer is from a very stiff spring tension.. I wonder how long will the spring tension will be able to last.. Most springs eventually give out.

  22. #272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtyling View Post
    I'm guessing the tension of the rear derailuer is from a very stiff spring tension.. I wonder how long will the spring tension will be able to last.. Most springs eventually give out.
    If it's Ti it should be fine.
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  23. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    Looking forward to seeing this on complete bikes, particularly ones that are designed specifically for it, no FD and no compromises for fitting triple crankarms and also allowing tire clearance. Maybe we can see some lighter 29ers that feature tighter rear ends. A lot of naysayers might just be sold on it come 2014, when this actually gets out under more riders and the word spreads. It has quite a bit of promise and, from what I can tell, it looks like it can deliver. If a 1x system was a maybe, for your bike, fitness, and trails, XX1 might make that "maybe", if the hype can be believed, into a "why did I wait so long to go for a proper quality 1x setup?" There are those that feel like there's no chance that 1x would work for them, and I don't think XX1 will work well for them. It seems to target a limited number of riders, particularly those who "trail ride", rather than ride up and down mountains.
    You can put me in this camp. I currently have 2x9 with a 32/22 x 34/11. I would love to go 1x, but there are some trails with looong washed out climbs that I barely make in 22x34. The XX1 with a 28 ring would give me everything I have now except for 32x11. With a 29er on 2.4's, the only time I spin out is downhill on the road.

    Of course, I'm not paying XX1 prices. If this comes out in X7/X9 form, I'm all over it though.

  24. #274
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    American Classic have put pictures on their Facebook page rear hub in a bag ......wait for it....marked as shimano 11 speed assume this is a printing mistake

  25. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andrewfuzzy View Post
    American Classic have put pictures on their Facebook page rear hub in a bag ......wait for it....marked as shimano 11 speed assume this is a printing mistake
    I'm guessing this is the new Shimano 11-spd road hub.

  26. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm guessing this is the new Shimano 11-spd road hub.
    Probably, new duraace 9000 is mechanical 11spd

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  27. #277
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    Yep it has the title "Shimano 11 speed road cassette bodies are here!"

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    @Varaxis

    Nice review, thanks for posting. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get XX1 early next year. Currently running 1x9 due to a broken front shifter. I can get up pretty much any climb, but I'm planning on doing longer races in 2013 and I feel I could use a bail out gear if my legs start to crash during a race. Also could do with a high gear for some long downhills on fire roads, so a smaller front chanring won't help.

    I'm 50/50 on the shifter vs the twist. I like the idea of the twist, but I use my middle finger for braking. My LBS currently has the Specialized epic XX1 and I noticed that the twist shifter pushes the brake pretty far along the bar and is more suited to index finger braking. Need to test ride it to see though.

    As for the XX1 chainrings on non-XX1 crankset, the S-works epic and stumpy HT have XX1 chainrings on the Specialized cranks.

  29. #279
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    Yes, I remember Bikerumour or Radar saying something about the twist shifter being in the "wrong" spot. When you put your hands in the normal riding position you have to reach to twist the shifter. Every rider is different so you should check it out before buying.

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    I think it's probably worth buying a slightly longer bar to allow for the length of the shifters, I'd love to (literally) get my hands on one to see, apparently the braking is meant to be single finger....and I assume it's dependant on your hands size...I know I sometimes release my grip to press my SRAM shifters so maybe the twist is a little like that ? And my hands are quite large

  31. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtyling View Post
    I'm guessing the tension of the rear derailuer is from a very stiff spring tension.. I wonder how long will the spring tension will be able to last.. Most springs eventually give out.
    The cage is normally sprung, but it has a roller bearing to control the cage movement. They said it should last approximately 5 years then probably go back to a normal sprung cage.

  32. #282
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    Take what I said as an first impression.

    Some of the feeling in the crazy high tension is due to the Type 2 clutch sort of holding the cage, probably. Just played with an XX RD I had laying around and tried comparing the "pinching pressure" (pinching something between the parallelogram and cage) and it's not like it would put nice deep marks into your finger if you stuck it in there. While the XX is pretty comfortable clamped onto my finger, the XX1 felt like that'd be a bad idea to even try. Not the greatest test for cage tension, but who knows if all the downsides of excessive chain tension really results in bad traits with the XX1 chain (with 4x claimed lifetime) and this XX1 drivetrain. Sounds like the crisp snappy shifting is a positive thing, according to some ride reports.

    The GripShift release feels like a big speed bump, off the bike. You can probably imagine that a RD's spring tension pulling on it would ease it up some, but it would also put some resistance on cable pull.

    Not sure why the chainrings cost so much. If they put a DLC finish on it, I'm sure they'd advertise it, as that's a very expensive finish. I think they are probably just charging that much since they're using a blank as thick as the widest tooth in the X-Sync tooth profile, and CNC'ing it all. Compare to Shimano XTR (or DuraAce) geared rings, Rotor Q-Rings, Praxis specially forged and CNC'd rings, and Renthal 1x rings...

    I splurged over the summer on MTB stuff, so I'm in no rush to buy stuff. Trying stuff, on the other hand, is always fun, though that comes with the risk of wanting to try it again (and again). No harm in holding off, but like muzzanic said, if you're buying a new drivetrain anyways, XX1 is one to seriously take a look at. Probably not worth upgrading an existing one unless you absolutely must have the latest and greatest. He also said he's been fine with the stock 32T ring, so no need to pay for the expensive chainrings. You'd prob shed a tear when it comes time to replace the cassette though, unless they create a cheaper pinned cassette with that lockring sleeve thingee.

  33. #283
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    mine ships tomorrow
    its snow bike season so I will not try it out till March,ish
    just letting you know they are shipping the bb30 stuff

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  34. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbco1975 View Post
    I'm 50/50 on the shifter vs the twist. I like the idea of the twist, but I use my middle finger for braking. My LBS currently has the Specialized epic XX1 and I noticed that the twist shifter pushes the brake pretty far along the bar and is more suited to index finger braking. Need to test ride it to see though.
    This is easily resolved with a shorter grip. The stock gripshift grips are like 120mm long (way too long imo). I cut down a set of ergons to 85mm and that has been the sweet spot for my hands. You would be able to middle finger brake with shorter grips.

  35. #285
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    who gave me the rep
    you didn't sign it and I would like to give some back
    don't make me rep everyone in here
    I will find you LOL

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  36. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    who gave me the rep
    you didn't sign it and I would like to give some back
    don't make me rep everyone in here
    I will find you LOL

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  37. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    who gave me the rep
    you didn't sign it and I would like to give some back
    don't make me rep everyone in here
    I will find you LOL

    Sj
    I didn't but I guess you gave all of us rep so I'll sent it back. Don't rep me again!

  38. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by toons101 View Post
    Yep it has the title "Shimano 11 speed road cassette bodies are here!"
    Yes sorry guys maybe it was just excitement should have read the post properly

  39. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by danridesbikes View Post
    Yup ceramic SRAM bb - yup spacer is installed

    Will try with 1x spacer on the drive side
    The important thing to remember is that with GXP, tightening the bolt on the left crank arm squeezes the inner race of the left bearing between the crank spindle and the left crank arm. The right bearing floats axially on the spindle.

    It can take more torque than you are probably applying to get it to clamp well enough and take out the play. In my experience the ceramic BBs are troublesome with this. Not sure why you'd spend the (way) extra for the ceramic anyway, especially as there's no way to preload the bearings with GXP. Being able to preload bearings can significantly extend their life.

    54Nm is the max spec, and that's 25% more than a cassette locking. Keep in mind that you usually have 30-35cm of chain whip and wheel to use as a lever with the lockring, but only about 17-18cm of leverage with your cranks and 10mm hex wrench. So, it takes a lot more effort to install a GXP crank than a cassette lockring.


    As for XX1, I would consider using the crank for other 1x setups, like a Shimano/SRAM 1x10 (or even the SRAmano 1x9 Shadow+).

    You can't use the chainrings on other cranks because the bolt holes don't actually all lie on one circle. They're asymmetric.

  40. #290
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    Almost a week later than I was originally told, but my xx1 build kit is finally on the way. I had my new bike fully built up at the end up September, so it will be nice to finally ride it!

    Is anyone using any kind of guide or bash with their xx1? I preordered the MRP AMG, and was told that should ship around the 8th.

  41. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Almost a week later than I was originally told, but my xx1 build kit is finally on the way. I had my new bike fully built up at the end up September, so it will be nice to finally ride it!

    Is anyone using any kind of guide or bash with their xx1? I preordered the MRP AMG, and was told that should ship around the 8th.
    I have seen no need with mine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram's New XX1 Group-green-rdo-xx-004.jpg  

    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  42. #292
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    I haven't needed one either.

  43. #293
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    Any thoughts....

    Drive trains have gone to utilizing larger cogs out back, whether is was with a 2x10 with 36t cog out back, and now the 1x11 with a 42t out back. This is putting relative more weight farther away from the BB area. Compare the weight of a 10 speed 36t to a 9 speed 32t, then throw that weight way out back, at the end of a long chainstay.

    Maybe this is insignificant, but seems to me a fair amount of bike weight is being pushed far out back. For riders on 29ers, with longer stays, that might add up to where it could conceivably affect the feel of the ride.

    Any thoughts?

  44. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Any thoughts....

    Drive trains have gone to utilizing larger cogs out back, whether is was with a 2x10 with 36t cog out back, and now the 1x11 with a 42t out back. This is putting relative more weight farther away from the BB area. Compare the weight of a 10 speed 36t to a 9 speed 32t, then throw that weight way out back, at the end of a long chainstay.

    Maybe this is insignificant, but seems to me a fair amount of bike weight is being pushed far out back. For riders on 29ers, with longer stays, that might add up to where it could conceivably affect the feel of the ride.

    Any thoughts?
    Horse****. Have you seen the weight spec on this cassette? Its ridiculously light weight 260 grams. Tire changes have more impact

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  45. #295
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    Ok...

    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    Horse****. Have you seen the weight spec on this cassette? Its ridiculously light weight 260 grams. Tire changes have more impact

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
    Ok, im all wet.

    Wow, I didn't see the feather-like weight on that cassette. No wonder it cost a fortune.

  46. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Ok, im all wet.

    Wow, I didn't see the feather-like weight on that cassette. No wonder it cost a fortune.
    Yes a few of my car race friends looked at my cassette & said thats not a bike part, That is Art.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  47. #297
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    Muzzanic,

    Have you had a chance to go up any really steep stuff on your new XX1?
    I saw that you were coming from a 36/26 and seem to not be able to tell much different at all. Can you expand no that at all, i.e. you give up a little on the climbs or you lose some top end speed?

    Any thing else that would be helpful when considering making this move?

    I am currently on XX with a 39/26 up front and 36 out back and will be riding a lot around Montana, Idaho, and some in Tahoe area. I havent really ever had to get off and walk up anything steep unless it was so washed out it was just easier to run up it.

  48. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by simpy16 View Post
    Muzzanic,

    Have you had a chance to go up any really steep stuff on your new XX1?
    I saw that you were coming from a 36/26 and seem to not be able to tell much different at all. Can you expand no that at all, i.e. you give up a little on the climbs or you lose some top end speed?

    Any thing else that would be helpful when considering making this move?

    I am currently on XX with a 39/26 up front and 36 out back and will be riding a lot around Montana, Idaho, and some in Tahoe area. I havent really ever had to get off and walk up anything steep unless it was so washed out it was just easier to run up it.
    If you run a 42 back with a 30 tooth front it is almost the same ratio as 36 back with a 26 front for the low
    If you run a 32 tooth front ring it is like running a 34 tooth rear with a 26 tooth front for the low
    you really do not give up allot with this system
    I can't wait to run mine next spring

    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  49. #299
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    Slower joe. Thanks for the number crunching.

    2 thing.

    1. How much weight savings did you see if you came from a XX group?
    2. How would I know what Q factor I would need for my crankset?

    I think I may run a 31 if they make it and put me right in the middle and then I will just man up for the rest.

    Oops! Nevermind there is only 30 or 32. Might just have to buy both trade out when I feel like I might need more for climbing.

  50. #300
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    Hi

    I have been riding only the most gut busting trails around here since I built up this bike to get a real idea what this group gives up to the XX 26/39 with 36-11 cassette on my other Jet9 RDO.

    On the climbs with the 32 front ring I not finding it to be any harder than with the XX.

    I put the 30 tooth front ring on for last night to see how it went on the same trials, & to be honest what it really did was make me climb the real steep stuff in second gear were as with the 32 f ring I was in 1st.

    As for the top end yes there is a loss of top gear but it does high light how seldom you are in your highest gear.

    Is it faster ??

    Yes, On the trails I have been riding on the downs there is some real sharp switch backs & you need to scrub off alot of speed ( almost stopped ) & then power out the other side, With the XX1 you are right on the right gearing & get out of the gear real fast.

    Were as with the XX you are in the big ring & you are about to have to change up a heap of gears so there is no way you would drop to the small ring because you would have to change up again in 20 feet so the XX is quite a bit slower out of the corner than the XX1.

    Ok so alot of people already run a 32 front ring on a none XX1 setup so whats the difference, Well on the climbs or rolling steep you once again are in the right gear all the time with the XX1 were as with the XX you can often just hold a lower gear because within 20 to 40 feet you need to be back in the small ring again.


    So big form me.

    Note I managed to run the same chain length with 30 or 32 front ring.

    Quote Originally Posted by simpy16 View Post
    Muzzanic,

    Have you had a chance to go up any really steep stuff on your new XX1?
    I saw that you were coming from a 36/26 and seem to not be able to tell much different at all. Can you expand no that at all, i.e. you give up a little on the climbs or you lose some top end speed?

    Any thing else that would be helpful when considering making this move?

    I am currently on XX with a 39/26 up front and 36 out back and will be riding a lot around Montana, Idaho, and some in Tahoe area. I havent really ever had to get off and walk up anything steep unless it was so washed out it was just easier to run up it.
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

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