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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Sounds like you have 73mm bottom bracket and are not using the preload adjustment properly.

    Before installing the non drive side crank through the bottom bracket, hand tighten the knob that will sit next to the non drive side bearing when inserted. Insert spindle, do not use that 10-12mm spacer, attach the drive side and then go back to that knob thing on non drive side to remove play. That knob is called preload adjuster and is the solution to your problem.
    Thanks, but without the spacer there is still play even with the preload adjuster knob at it's maximum extension.
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Thanks, but without the spacer there is still play even with the preload adjuster knob at it's maximum extension.
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Ab..._cranksets.pdf

    Then 10-12mm thing is not a spacer but an elastomer to preload the bearing. Look at the instructions above. Are you using a mallet to tap the drive side on? Are you torquing to correct level?

  3. #403
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    I have to say, that's a really impressive manual.

  4. #404
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    The piece I am referring to is the piece illustrated at the base of the yellow arrow and i believe it is metal.

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    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  5. #405
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    Well, just so happens that I will be in your area tomorrow afternoon and will take that defective crank off your hands for $25. Deal?

  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    Well, just so happens that I will be in your area tomorrow afternoon and will take that defective crank off your hands for $25. Deal?
    Haha! In my area huh? Nepal? They actually got it fixed without any machining! I honestly have no idea what they were doing wrong, but it works fantastically now. I'll take it out on a real trail ride today, but there is a fairly steep hill(paved) on the way back home from the bike shop and I was carrying my 2-year-old son on my back. I never had to use the lowest gear. Super smooth, easy shifts, even under load.
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  7. #407
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    Why? Mine works great, so does the set of RobRobideau (see post above) and muzzanic and I can name a few more...

    edit: nice pics on your blog Rob!

  8. #408
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    Got in a 1.5 hour trail ride with the new drivetrain and it works like a dream. Exactly what I was hoping for. Even while bouncing down bone-jarring rocky paths like this, no dropped chains or even chain slap.


    @betzel Glad you enjoyed the pics!
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  9. #409
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    After >80km, I lost the chain for the first time and it was my own fault. A half-inch-diameter stick found its way into the drivetrain. Here are a few pics of it mounted on my Chinese carbon 29er hard tail.





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    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  10. #410
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    Has anybody had the xx1 long enough to comment on chain wear?

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    After >80km, I lost the chain for the first time and it was my own fault. A half-inch-diameter stick found its way into the drivetrain.
    Rob, that's cheating and doesn't count as losing a chain in normal conditions. No, just kidding, seriously...I don't read something was damaged so lucky you! Would be a pity if you had to change de RD already....

  12. #412
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    You are right, it definitely doesn't count and I am blessed not to have any damage to spokes or components!

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  13. #413
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    In the past sticks have been the death of RD's for me, XX1 construction seems much sturdier, which direction did the chain suck in the woodwork (did it go through RD or not)?

  14. #414
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    I don't know exactly what route it took, but it ended up trapped between the spokes of the rear wheel and the rear derailleur. It took quite a bit of twisting, wiggling, and finagling to get it out. The rear derailleur had to have taken a decent hit.

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    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    I have to say, that's a really impressive manual.
    Tech writers are expensive, thus the price on the group.
    Chasing bears through the woods drunk with a dull hatchet is strongly not advised

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    I don't know exactly what route it took, but it ended up trapped between the spokes of the rear wheel and the rear derailleur. It took quite a bit of twisting, wiggling, and finagling to get it out. The rear derailleur had to have taken a decent hit.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
    So there is hope it wont get shredded on first contact with pine branches.

  17. #417
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    Got this funny little question that's been tickling my head for the past couple of weeks:

    What is Rotor going to do about XX1? Are they going to be able to come out with an elliptical Q-ring that will hold the chain on without a guide like SRAM's?

    I guess there are both practical and patent concerns to think about. Will Rotor (and/or all the other chainring manufacturers) be legally allowed to copy the tooth design that makes the front of XX1 so special?

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by vapezilla View Post
    Has anybody had the xx1 long enough to comment on chain wear?
    I have a fair amount of time on a chain (since mid August) and it is doing just great. I am pretty good about cleaning it quite often but it has seen some abuse too. Since there were not many of these chains in early going, this particular one went through World Cup finals, training, Olympics, more training and World Champs then on to my bike for some more abuse and Iceman. Continues on today

    Sram does say it is their strongest chain they have ever manufactured. Time will tell. Building up my new Trek Superfly 100 SL this week with a new group. Can't wait to get out on it even if it is in the snow!!!!

  19. #419
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    Let us know what you think of the new frame too.

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    Let us know what you think of the new frame too.
    Sure will. If it is half as fantastic as the SL hardtail I have been riding, I will be on cloud 9!

  21. #421
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    I've been considering this drivetrain for the past few days, and I'd like to thank all of you for this enlightening thread !

    However, there is one question whose answer I can't find : could I go from a 28t chainring to a 32t without changing the chain ? Assuming that my primary chainring would be a 30t.

  22. #422
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noosphere View Post
    I've been considering this drivetrain for the past few days, and I'd like to thank all of you for this enlightening thread !

    However, there is one question whose answer I can't find : could I go from a 28t chainring to a 32t without changing the chain ? Assuming that my primary chainring would be a 30t.
    Yes Just. I have been told that it can cover 4 teeth difference. I haven't fitted my 28 yet but use the 30 & 32 with same chain no problems .

    In the grand skeem of things even if you couldn't what an extra chain.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  23. #423
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    I had the same question. I'd want a 36 or 38 tooth ring. So I'd put one of those on the crank, fit the chain and then keep the 32 around in case I go somewhere hilly or buy a 29er.
    These chains are supposed to last so if you did switch rings you could keep the old ring/chain combo together in case you switch back.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    In the grand skeem of things even if you couldn't what an extra chain.
    Very true, not having to switch chains would just be less effort

    Thanks for the info.

  25. #425
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    Quote Originally Posted by Noosphere View Post
    Very true, not having to switch chains would just be less effort

    Thanks for the info.
    For that matter having 1 bike with 28 tooth & 1 with 32 tooth rings would be even less effort

    Thats if you don't count the extra effort it would take to make the money to pay for it.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  26. #426
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    I talked to Rotor Ring a month ago and they said they weren't planning to make rings to fit XX1 cranks but I didn't specifically ask if they had any plans to try an alternating tooth thickness ring. I don't remember hearing if Sram patented it.
    I can't imagine they how much they would charge for and alternating tooth thickness rotor ring. I'm a Rotor Ring fan and am going to go XX1. I'm having a tough time deciding if I'll keep my current rotor ring and run a top mount chain guide or run the XX1 crank.
    If I can live with the 33t front ring instead of a 30t I'm leaning toward sticking with Rotor.
    2 wheels

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by osokolo View Post
    good to know... my plan is to switch to 33 front as well...
    32 with12-34 soon to be 34 with 11-36. Can do everything i want on it from amateur XC racing to all around trail lollygaging. Couldn't be more satisfied within losing the front derailleur, shifter and two chain rings. Do it!

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  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    Yes Just. I have been told that it can cover 4 teeth difference. I haven't fitted my 28 yet but use the 30 & 32 with same chain no problems .

    In the grand skeem of things even if you couldn't what an extra chain.
    I was told a 2 teeth difference in both ways. So if you run a 30t chainring you can ride 28 and 32. But maybe 4 teeth difference will work also if I understand you correctly? I'm waiting for my 28t (riding 32t now) and have a second chain for it.

  29. #429
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    And I was also told at the LBS that the chainlock can be used more often than once. But only with the same chain. When using a new chain you should use a new lock.

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by chomxxo View Post
    Got this funny little question that's been tickling my head for the past couple of weeks:

    What is Rotor going to do about XX1? Are they going to be able to come out with an elliptical Q-ring that will hold the chain on without a guide like SRAM's?

    I guess there are both practical and patent concerns to think about. Will Rotor (and/or all the other chainring manufacturers) be legally allowed to copy the tooth design that makes the front of XX1 so special?
    I think any crank/chain ring manufacturer can make a taller tooth profile, right? I know the SS cogs and chainrings are already taller by a smudge. You can't patent chain line or Q factor I'm pretty sure so these mfg's can make whatever they want.

  31. #431
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    I had no problem switching between a 32 and 34 on Emily Batty's bike, but when we went to 36, it was too short. It was originally sized for a 32 though so if you size it off your middle sized ring, I would bet it will be fine.

    I bet also, once you start riding with the 10-42, you will not need to switch the ring much. I live here in Colorado and have only found the 36 is needed for me. 34 was a little small when having to connect downhill paved stretches and I have not found anything I need smaller than the 36/42. If I can't make it on that combo, I am probably walking anyway I have done some super steep climbing with it and 4 hour rides in the "hills" here- pretty good for me. If I knew there was no super fast downhills/road riding stretches, I would probably run the 34 though. Everyone is different though, but I suspect most will not need more than 2 different rings in their arsenal

    Em loves her bike

  32. #432
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    First ride on my 1x10 setup with XX1 cranks and chainring today. I have to agree 100% with the folks who have mentioned how quiet the drivetrain is with XX1.

    The new drivetrain + my silent XTR brakes made for the quietest ride as far as bike noise I have had.

  33. #433
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    Were you previously using Shimano shifters? Any complaints at all with XX1?

  34. #434
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    North Shore Billet is planning to produce aftermarket spiders for XX1 rings. This is good news for me - I have some XO cranks that I would like to run a XX1 ring on.

    http://www.bikerumor.com/2013/01/23/...iders-for-xx1/


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  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattomoto View Post
    Em loves her bike
    And now she's back on Shimano.

    I get it, that's how racing and teams and being a pro goes...

    I just wonder how soon before Shimano has their top riders on a similar 1X system, of if most Shimano pros prefering the 1X will just used chainguides/11-36 cassettes.
    WWW.TEAMDICKY.COM

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  36. #436
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    just looked through Hope pro 2 evo specs on their site, concidering the trials/ss hub bodies are the same, wouldn't that hub work with the XD driver too?
    or am i wrong?
    i want to ride my bicycle! i want to ride my bike....

  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by korbs View Post
    just looked through Hope pro 2 evo specs on their site, concidering the trials/ss hub bodies are the same, wouldn't that hub work with the XD driver too?
    or am i wrong?
    Unless I'm missing something, their trials/SS hubs are different than their geared hubs. The SS/Trials hubs have a hub with symmetric spoke flanges and a freehub that is about 30% shorter than the geared freehub.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by chomxxo View Post
    What is Rotor going to do about XX1? Are they going to be able to come out with an elliptical Q-ring that will hold the chain on without a guide like SRAM's?
    I'm also interested, so I sent them a mail and got following response :

    Hi, we are working on a new design matching this groupset, but honestly, there is no release date so far.

    The quesion whether or not a chainguide would be needed was not answered.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    North Shore Billet is planning to produce aftermarket spiders for XX1 rings. This is good news for me - I have some XO cranks that I would like to run a XX1 ring on.

    New North Shore Billet Single Chainrings for SRAM Cranks, Universal Spiders for XX1 - Bike Rumor


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    That's cool as an alternative, and it says they will be thicker to "help" with keeping the chain on, but still they don't have the special teeth that the Sram does. Possibly patented.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  40. #440
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    Sram's New XX1 Group

    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    That's cool as an alternative, and it says they will be thicker to "help" with keeping the chain on, but still they don't have the special teeth that the Sram does. Possibly patented.
    You are referring to the NSB chainrings.

    I was referring to the blurb in the article that says NSB is also working on a XX1 *spider* so you can use XX1 chainrings on XO or X9 cranks.

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    You are referring to the NSB chainrings.

    I was referring to the blurb in the article that says NSB is also working on a XX1 *spider* so you can use XX1 chainrings on XO or X9 cranks.
    Good to know
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  42. #442
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    Re: Sram's New XX1 Group

    Mark, for later reading.

  43. #443
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    I'm not sure if anyone else is having the same issue as I, but so far I hate this thing on my Tallboy. I went on a single ride after transferring the XX1 from my Highball to the Tallboy and I'm already planning on going back. While peddling up the first uphill climb in 2nd gear I noticed a popping sound coming from the rear wheel area. The sound was traced back to the rear derailleur pulley arm. It appears as though the "Type 2 clutch" is popping every time the suspension is compressed near half way, or less. I followed the chain install direction to the tee, fully compressed suspension plus a link. Hell, I even added 2 more links once I found the cause of the noise. The noise is most obvious in 1st through 4th.

    I'm really hoping that others have had this same issues with some type of resolution. The noise/feeling really has me not wanting to ride the bike. It just feels like something is loose within the suspension and makes riding it very annoying.

  44. #444
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    Sram's New XX1 Group

    There are several threads on the type 2 clutch popping issue in the drivetrain forum. Not just an issue with XX1 from what I read. I have two T2 XO derailleurs with no issues so far. Hoping they don't start popping in the future.

  45. #445
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    What wheel & freehub are you running ?


    Quote Originally Posted by bassn View Post
    I'm not sure if anyone else is having the same issue as I, but so far I hate this thing on my Tallboy. I went on a single ride after transferring the XX1 from my Highball to the Tallboy and I'm already planning on going back. While peddling up the first uphill climb in 2nd gear I noticed a popping sound coming from the rear wheel area. The sound was traced back to the rear derailleur pulley arm. It appears as though the "Type 2 clutch" is popping every time the suspension is compressed near half way, or less. I followed the chain install direction to the tee, fully compressed suspension plus a link. Hell, I even added 2 more links once I found the cause of the noise. The noise is most obvious in 1st through 4th.

    I'm really hoping that others have had this same issues with some type of resolution. The noise/feeling really has me not wanting to ride the bike. It just feels like something is loose within the suspension and makes riding it very annoying.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  46. #446
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    I'm running Enve XC carbons with the DT-swiss 240 XD driver.

  47. #447
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    Sram's New XX1 Group

    All of the people I know running the type-2 derailleurs are having the same issue.

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by c-wal View Post
    All of the people I know running the type-2 derailleurs are having the same issue.
    I ran an X9 Type 2 derailleur for last half of last race season ... far and away the best rear der I've ever had on a bike, zero issues! Running mine on a f/s Jet9.
    Last edited by kfb66; 02-18-2013 at 07:01 PM.

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by c-wal View Post
    All of the people I know running the type-2 derailleurs are having the same issue.
    Yep, definitely a common problem full suspension users are running in to. It's back on the hardtail and works great. It's a shame because my initial thought when purchasing the set up was to have the flexibility of using it on either bike. Oh well, at least not a total loss.

    I'll wait and see what Shimano comes up with. At least I have the ability of adjusting the clutch on my XTR Shadow.

  50. #450
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    I know quite a few people running them on Jet9 RDO's & Rip9's for a while now with no problems.

    Both bikes are known for not having much pedal feed back over bumps.

    Quote Originally Posted by c-wal View Post
    All of the people I know running the type-2 derailleurs are having the same issue.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  51. #451
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    I have an XO T2 on my Jet RDO and it works perfectly. In fact I am running mine 1X with a MRP 28T front (Sram XO crank) and 11/34 XT 10Sp cassette with no chain guide and it works great.

  52. #452
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    Yeah its an intriguing system, i worry though, 11 gears how many times will the hanger need to be straightened per year?

  53. #453
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    At least as many as you wack it.

    Quote Originally Posted by DYard View Post
    Yeah its an intriguing system, i worry though, 11 gears how many times will the hanger need to be straightened per year?
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  54. #454
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    No probs what so ever on my full suss Marin Mount Vision. Drivetrain is absolutly quiet even when going through the suspension.

  55. #455
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Hey guys I will install the XX1 in my stumpy 2013! I love hills and use a lot the 26/36 chain position I want to know which chainring I will need to have the same ratio??? I'm thinking in the 30t

  56. #456
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  57. #457
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    I am running the 30 on front of my Rip9 RDO & it's very close to the 26/36
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I am running the 30 on front of my Rip9 RDO & it's very close to the 26/36
    Yeah I will order with the 30t chainring looks like is the best for high and long distance hills the 28t will be too small for flats in marathon races

  59. #459
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    Can I ask users what they think of the chainset? I'm considering one for use with a 1X10 Shimano set up, they seem like amazing value all things considered. The only thing holding me back is using SRAM with Shimano from a aesthetic/continuity point of view. Its either this or wait a bit for the new rings coming out from the different manufacturers and mount on a regular pair of cranks.

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaiser2 View Post
    Can I ask users what they think of the chainset? I'm considering one for use with a 1X10 Shimano set up, they seem like amazing value all things considered. The only thing holding me back is using SRAM with Shimano from a aesthetic/continuity point of view. Its either this or wait a bit for the new rings coming out from the different manufacturers and mount on a regular pair of cranks.
    wolftoothcomponents.com

    I'm running their 30T 104 BCD ring on XT cranks, and I love it so far. Very quiet and no chain drops so far, including a couple of crashes.

  61. #461
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    hillharman do you have any pics of your set up? This is one of the alternatives I had in mind. (Turbines the other)

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaiser2 View Post
    hillharman do you have any pics of your set up? This is one of the alternatives I had in mind. (Turbines the other)
    Not at the moment. I'll try to remember to snap some pics when I get home.

  63. #463
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    Here is a pic and intro for the Wolf Tooth ring: First Look: Wolf Tooth Components Drop-Stop chainring | Bike198

    Only have about 20-30 off road miles on it so far, but loving it. No chain drops at all.

    -Tom

  64. #464
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    I'm already setup with the full XX1 drivetrain, but it's interesting to see all the manufacturers that are announcing and producing their own version of the XX1 style/ narrow-wide chainrings:

    Sram XX1 Aftermarket Chain Rings

    Why Do We Need or Want Aftermarket XX1 Chain Rings?
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  65. #465
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    Rings are also coming from Works Components, Absolute Black and Goldtec.

  66. #466
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    Quote Originally Posted by kaiser2 View Post
    Rings are also coming from Works Components, Absolute Black and Goldtec.
    Thanks! I updated the article, but I can't find any information about the Goldtec offerings. Do you have a link?
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
    bideshibiker.blogspot.com

  67. #467
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    Sorry no, the Goldtec one is just forum chatter at the moment. But people have been in contact with them and they are imminent AFAIK. Drop them a mail I believe they are very good with comms.

  68. #468
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    Guys Guys!! check this out in the 4:05 this vid shows the Emily's bike with the xx1 group but with x0 cranks!!!!!! woow maybe u can install a xx1 spider in x0 crank

    SRAM XX 1 - CHAPTER 4: CROSS COUNTRY - YouTube

    I will have my XX1 group in one week so nervous... Im riding my road bike every day to stay focused

  69. #469
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    Sram's New XX1 Group

    ^
    Yes, you can but Sram isn't selling the spider.

    I was going to call my LBS and tell them I bent my XX1 spider and to order a replacement. Do you think they would supply one?

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    ^
    Yes, you can but Sram isn't selling the spider.

    I was going to call my LBS and tell them I bent my XX1 spider and to order a replacement. Do you think they would supply one?
    Oh yeah maybe!! But could be a Sram strategy not sell that spiders because everyone will buy x0 cranks and will install their xx1 group!!! that x0 cranks in the vid are awesome in that color!!

  71. #471
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    My ďnew to meĒ aluminum Jet 9 is currently equipped with a standard X9 2x10 set-up with the only exception being an XO rear shifter. This is my first 29er, as well as, my first 2X10 group. The shifting is somewhat inconsistent and loud. Overall it seems rather sluggish compared to my old XT 26er.

    Iím looking for an upgrade in shifting action and noise reduction. My LBS guy recommends the XX1 package. Iíve read most every article available but havenít found much specific to the aluminum Jet 9. Also, Q-factor is a choice that I need to make if I decide on this group set.

    Anyone running XX1 group on an aluminum Jet 9? If so, Iíd be interested to know about your experience with it. At 46 Iím mostly into the fitness associated with XC riding. My local trails are fairly easy. Iím doing about 10 miles in just under an hour and ride about 60 miles per week.

    Thanks,

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I am running the 30 on front of my Rip9 RDO & it's very close to the 26/36
    Man im getting behind the ball these days... Muzz your retiring bikes that many still cant get their hands on by the time I get around to updating my drivetrain... sheesh
    I do all my own stunts, but never intentionally...

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace5high View Post
    Man im getting behind the ball these days... Muzz your retiring bikes that many still cant get their hands on by the time I get around to updating my drivetrain... sheesh
    Retiring ? I'm looking at or bikes & theres's 7 Niners & 6 others.

    maybe I do need to sell some.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    ^
    Yes, you can but Sram isn't selling the spider.

    I was going to call my LBS and tell them I bent my XX1 spider and to order a replacement. Do you think they would supply one?
    I have a spider for sale if you're interested.

    classifieds.mtbr.com/showproduct.php?product=85209&title=sram-xx1-spider-and-32t-chainring-new-takeoffs&cat=12

  75. #475
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    Quote Originally Posted by andresco50 View Post
    Oh yeah maybe!! But could be a Sram strategy not sell that spiders because everyone will buy x0 cranks and will install their xx1 group!!! that x0 cranks in the vid are awesome in that color!!
    If you really like your crankset or don't want to shell out for an XX1, this is always an option
    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...7987558&type=1
    wolftoothcomponents.com

  76. #476
    just ride
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    Deleted...
    Last edited by Tjay; 05-31-2013 at 11:37 PM.

  77. #477
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    After just two rides, it's time to trade out the gripshifter for the trigger shifter. Here's why:

    1) The reach adjust on the Avid Elixir R levers interferes with the gripshifter causing the brake lever not to reach in front of the hand grip like it should. One finger braking is all I get on that side. I spoke with Avid and they suggested I purchase an "internals Kit" that changes out the large reach adjust knob for something smaller. That is a possible solution to the reach issue but I'd have to order the kit and rebuild the lever with the new parts and that still wouldn't resolve the next two problems I'm having.

    2) Reaching to the inside of the grip and twisting just isn't a natural movement for me.

    3) In general I think SRAM made the grip too long, I have wide bars on my bike but the feel narrow since I need to choke up on the bars to keep part of my hand on the grip shift.

    4) I know I would eventually learn but I keep downshifting when I want to upshift and vice-versa.

    So I've already ordered a trigger shifter and will sell my almost new grip shifter. Once I install the trigger shifter I will be able to move the brake lever where it needs to be and start using my fingers to shift instead of twisting my wrist. I think switching over to the trigger will make the XX1 a perfect fit.
    Last edited by Epic_Dude; 06-02-2013 at 06:30 PM.

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