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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by simpy16 View Post
    Slower joe. Thanks for the number crunching.

    2 thing.

    1. How much weight savings did you see if you came from a XX group?
    2. How would I know what Q factor I would need for my crankset?

    I think I may run a 31 if they make it and put me right in the middle and then I will just man up for the rest.

    Oops! Nevermind there is only 30 or 32. Might just have to buy both trade out when I feel like I might need more for climbing.
    Yes all the chainrings are even numbers because the chain rings have a wide tooth evey second tooth to fit into the wide link in the chain, Same as with the derailieur pullys.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  2. #302
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    I will save about 400grams changing from X0/X9 2x10 gruppo to XX1. Weight on scale can be seen here:

    Betzel - Benutzerprofil - Gewicht von Teilen auf der Waage - MTB-News.de

    Weigth crank is including BB while BB is not shown in the pic. GXP BB = 111gr. The pics are on a German site. If you have a question just ask. I can translate the text i have written there.

  3. #303
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    If anyone is still confused on what gears they need use this. You can figure out your current high and low gear and then choose the XX1 chainring you'll need to match or at least be close to it.

    Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator

  4. #304
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    Thanks for sharing that link. I've used it over the last few weeks contemplating what I should upgrade/downgrade to next.

    I'm always surprised how close the xx1 32t gets to a 26/39 11-36!

    This is probably the best article out there explaining it all: SRAM XX1 Drivetrain - First Look - Pinkbike

    I'll be sticking to my 2x10, but the future is looking good.

  5. #305
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    Most the summer i did big climbs in 24/32, which closely simulates 32/42 of the xx1. I had zero issues on even the biggest climbs and in fact use 24/28 most the time. The 32/36 on xx1 will be plenty for most climbs but it will be nice to have that 42 to fall back on just incase.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-one1 View Post
    Shadow was Shimano's answer to Sram's low profile dr. Then Type2 was SRAM's answer to Shimano's Shadow+.
    Good to know. I meant Shadow plus.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  7. #307
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    I'm going to start out with the 28 tooth front
    I like to play in big rocks an sometimes on a steep climb I pedal strike and come to a stop
    A supper low gear can be nice to get moving up hill and than drop down a couple of gears quickly to get the required momentum to make it through the chop
    Yes I could run up the hill faster sometimes but.....
    WTF kind of sport is bike running anyway
    Take more pride in what I can get through on a bike over hiking
    I'm stoked to try out my XX1 as long as they get me my cassette body ARG


    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  8. #308
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    Cassette body came in, can't wait to build it up on Christmas :-)

    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    Cassette body came in, can't wait to build it up on Christmas :-)

    Sj
    Good news
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    I'm going to start out with the 28 tooth front
    I like to play in big rocks an sometimes on a steep climb I pedal strike and come to a stop
    A supper low gear can be nice to get moving up hill and than drop down a couple of gears quickly to get the required momentum to make it through the chop
    Yes I could run up the hill faster sometimes but.....
    WTF kind of sport is bike running anyway
    Take more pride in what I can get through on a bike over hiking
    I'm stoked to try out my XX1 as long as they get me my cassette body ARG


    Sj
    28 should be fine unless you live in a mountainous region. Especially with the 10 tooth. I only have a 24 tooth front on one bike and never spin out in 24/11 here in the Midwest. We don't have long steep downhills. Plus the 24/34 gives me enough to climb up anything I can keep from spinning out on. You'll have higher and lower.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    28 should be fine unless you live in a mountainous region. Especially with the 10 tooth. I only have a 24 tooth front on one bike and never spin out in 24/11 here in the Midwest. We don't have long steep downhills. Plus the 24/34 gives me enough to climb up anything I can keep from spinning out on. You'll have higher and lower.
    I am in the Midwest
    Allot of the trails I run are rocky steep and rolling
    I rarely use my lowest gear but it sure is nice knowing its there
    My XX 39 tooth is missing 5 teeth and I'm going to be happy to put an end to that
    I plan to get an ICSG mount bash for my stumpy
    can't wait to toss a leg over it

    Sj
    Last edited by Burnt-Orange; 12-05-2012 at 11:49 AM.
    I am slow therefore I am

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Show me picks of worn out 11t cogs to support how much they are needed and used.

    On a single , or double, with a 32t max front ring, which is quite common, worn 11t cogs are rarely seen. Most certainly not enough to warrant a 10t that would require an expensive hub overhaul.

    Of course this is all my opinion, but wait until Shimano comes out with a similar design with a 11t max that requires no hub overhaul. I bet they'll walk away with this market and prove the theory.
    I run a 1x10 and while I don't wear out my 11T cog, I do run out of higher gears when riding aggressively downhill. Yes, you can run a 1x10 but you need to make a not insubstantial compromise climbing or descending. I, at least, hope that Shimano will follow suit with a 1x11 drivetrain.

  13. #313
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    The body for my Hope hub came in yesterday. And tomorrow my wheels will be build. And after that I guess it will takes ages for the weekend to come




  14. #314
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    Nice
    what ya putting that on betzel?



    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  15. #315
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    Hmm. From the looks of it the hub body is the same with a different free hub and splines.

    I wonder if you can simply switch out the free hubs?

    I was thinking about this last night riding a 29er with i9 wheels and hoping I can do this with that rear.

    I don't want to build new wheels I just want the gears.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram's New XX1 Group-hopepro2evo.jpg  

    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Hmm. From the looks of it the hub body is the same with a different free hub and splines.

    I wonder if you can simply switch out the free hubs?

    I was thinking about this last night riding a 29er with i9 wheels and hoping I can do this with that rear.

    I don't want to build new wheels I just want the gears.
    I know for sure that the Sram and DT swiss hubs have free hubs that just change out on existing hubs.

    I am going to buy one for my DT240 so i can run this as well.

    I cant speak for Hope or i9 but depending on how they are built i believe they are all coming out with just an replacement free hub that will go on the hub you already have.

  17. #317
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    Here are some real weights if anyone is interested.

    SRAM XX1 Component Group – Actual Weights - Bike Rumor

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by simpy16 View Post
    I know for sure that the Sram and DT swiss hubs have free hubs that just change out on existing hubs.

    I am going to buy one for my DT240 so i can run this as well.

    I cant speak for Hope or i9 but depending on how they are built i believe they are all coming out with just an replacement free hub that will go on the hub you already have.
    Same is possible for Hopes.

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by modifier View Post
    Hmm. From the looks of it the hub body is the same with a different free hub and splines.

    I wonder if you can simply switch out the free hubs?

    I was thinking about this last night riding a 29er with i9 wheels and hoping I can do this with that rear.

    I don't want to build new wheels I just want the gears.
    Yes I only changed the freehub body on My I9 wheels for xx1, It takes less than 30 seconds.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  20. #320
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    Crap! The shop I'm going to be racing with next year just got some XX1 kits in...and I'm afraid I'm gonna come home with one after our team meeting on Saturday! #nowillpower

  21. #321
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    Is it possible to get the XX1 cluster only?

    I'm thinking of running two wheelsets - one for AM, the other with slicks for commuting, so I'd only need a XX1 cluster on the second set.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrisgardner73 View Post
    Crap! The shop I'm going to be racing with next year just got some XX1 kits in...and I'm afraid I'm gonna come home with one after our team meeting on Saturday! #nowillpower
    willpower is overated
    For the same money you could come home with something stupid like a TV
    do the right thing
    Use all your expendable income and than some on your bikes
    Learn from me
    Its worth it

    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by NevB View Post
    Is it possible to get the XX1 cluster only?

    I'm thinking of running two wheelsets - one for AM, the other with slicks for commuting, so I'd only need a XX1 cluster on the second set.
    Yes you can buy a second XX1 cassette on it's own.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  24. #324
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    It is the same Hope hubshell. You just need to change the freewheel. 5 minutes work! I'm putting on a bike that wouldn't fit in this part of the forum It's a 2011 Marin Mount Vision XM9 so a 26" bike. I will upload some pics in the Marin forum when my bike is ready (tonight or tomorrow).

  25. #325
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    Can't wait to get my XX1 groupset over here in Nepal. I got the delivery confirmation that it already got to my buddy who is bringing it over here to me in another 10 days. The freehub body is on the way too. I'm hooking it up to a DTSwiss 240s rear hub.

    I got the 156q BB30 to use on a Chinese carbon hardtail. Pics will be forthcoming.

  26. #326
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Can't wait to get my XX1 groupset over here in Nepal.
    What do you need all those gears for in Nepal? It's so flat over there.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by AOK View Post
    What do you need all those gears for in Nepal? It's so flat over there.
    Haha! We actually do have some flat areas(terai), but I live in the Kathmandu Valley surrounded by big hills and mountains.

  28. #328
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    I got my first full ride in with xx1. Simply amazing! So quiet i actually notice my tire noise more than anything.

  29. #329
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    I've had 2 rides with my XX1 group. I am in love. I put on the 30t ring on the 29er and it does feel (as the math confirms) like a 26t granny/36t cog.

    The real beauty is no guide, total silence!! The cass and chain are super quiet. It's all very well executed. I was quite surprised that i can backpedal in 1st gear without the chain walking down the cassette.

    I haven't been on anything too chattery but the chain hasn't come off.

    The shifting isn't quite XTR smooth, nor is the shifter quite as ergonomic, but it's better than my last 10sp X9 SRAM group. I'll gladly give up a fraction of a second delay in shifting for the massive gains in performance in all other aspects.

    The derailleur is massive and I'll shed a tear the first time i clip a rock with it though.
    Santa Cruz Bronson 2 27.5/Rockshox Pike/Sram XX1
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  30. #330
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    Someone broke a chain on one of my past group rides. When we were ganging up to fix it ASAP, to get back to riding, that's when I wondered how much easier it would've been to put the chain back together with the Cage Lock feature, rather than gripping the chain tight and pulling each end together, while fighting the RD's tension. I think SRAM 1-up'd Shimano with that feature.

    krispy brings up a good point. Not sure how a solid RD that only moves inboard and outboard is gonna cope with hits. The last time I clipped my RD, I ended up with a broken RD hanger, and since I didn't carry a spare hanger, that pretty much ended my ride. It happens. I went off a modest rock drop that went into a sharp right, and there was a rock on the inside of the turn. Didn't think I hit it and thought the force of landing the drop caused the break. Tried to go chainless on the way back and secured the RD and cable, but that didn't work too well since the hanger was part of the dropout. Might be a very good idea to carry spare hangers, as all the force goes into that, without much, if any, of the force being absorbed.

  31. #331
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    I too cant believe how quiet it is. I went down an incredibly rooty and rocky trail littered with drops and rock gardens and the only noise I heard was the sound of tires on the dirt. Zero chain issues!

    I do agree down shifting isnt as smooth as xtr, but upshifts feel great to me!

  32. #332
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    as others mentioned..this might be enticing to most, but the cost alone is insane! I did some math on the gear calculator and the difference between most 2X10 systems isnt much at all..im currently running 2X9 but just changed over to 1X10, i have no intentions on running this setup until they come out with a more cost effective groupset. 400 dollars for a rear cog? that weighs more than my current setup? hard pressed.

  33. #333
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    Does XX1 weigh more than your entire setup? Remember to add whatever you're using to hold your chain on.

  34. #334
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    The 11s cassette is lighter than an XTR 10 sp cass is. It is heavier than XX.


    XX 1099 11-36 208g
    XG 1080 11-36 239g
    XX1 1199 10-42 260g
    XTR 980 11-36 275g

    Keep in mind the XD driver (XX1 freehub body) should be a few grams lighter too.


    The lightest E 13 XCX guide is 56g., So the weight is right about the same ad 1x10 depending on your top guide, the weight of a spider and the ring you choose.

    For me there's still no comparison since 1x10 is a pain in the ass (low back to be exact) to run year round in the Rockies. For me it's just to tall for cold winter rides, long days in the steeps etc so i end up switching back and forth. Done with that now!!

    I'd imagine that the boys at SRAM are working on an X9 level group. I'd hope that they have both a 10t version and an 11t version that would fit on standard hubs so that mfg's can spec them on a wide variety of bikes for '14.

    I'm not trying to defend SRAM, the stuff is ridiculously expensive, just trying to state the facts.
    Santa Cruz Bronson 2 27.5/Rockshox Pike/Sram XX1
    Salsa Mukluk/Rockshox Bluto/Sram X1

  35. #335
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    Mind you i am sporting a 1X9 as of right now, i also have a XTR rear cog which is 30 grams lighter than the claimed weight of the XX1, my front crank just has a 30t chainring, and a ethirteen bash, which is something i would use with the XX1, i also have ceramic ball bearings for the crank which were only 19 bucks each. Total weight of my entire setup will either be dead close if not less than the XX1. Even if i decide to go with 1X10, its not much heavier over my current setup. (as i can still use current crankset).

    But as i stated earlier, to pay 400+ dollars, that cog better weigh much less over my current setup to even be worth mentioning. The rear deraileur is nice, but the price..overkill imo. Sram is taking advantage considering they are the only manufacturer to produce a 1X11. However like what i mentioned, check gearing ratios, its not something that over the top to where it justifies that price tag. I have the money to spend, but i cannot justify the chnge over jmho.

    I recently purchased a xtr rear der and a 10 sp cog and a xt shifter. All of which will be added prior to next season depending on weather. But all i spent was 300 total..got alot on sale through jenson and amazon. Huge difference in cost in comparison to.

  36. #336
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    Eventually XX1 will go down down in price. By next summer everything will be discounted. I wouldn't be surprised if it's cheaper by March.

  37. #337
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    Jesse

    I agree the prices are high and guess they will come down in time. Your system 1x9 or 1x10 may be close to the same weight as the XX1, but does not have the same gearing so it is not really apples to apples. To have the same gearing you would have to make your system a 2X adding more weight. I run a 1X9 on my local trails, but when heading to the mountains I put the 2X stuff back on which is a pain. I do have XO stuff and will more than likely will get XX1 when it wears out which is less than XX if you by in a group. If they make the rear cassette in a lessor grade I would get it.

  38. #338
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    I agree it would be nice if the price came wayyy down lol even if the cog went up 20 grams in weight for cost svings or whatever..the current price cant be justified.

    I dont see the need to go back to 2X anything, especially when i convert over to 10 spd i currently have 32 and 30 tooth chainrings, which will cover a great del of riding for me in the springs and curt gowdy area. I even took my current 1X9 setup out to great falls mt and never felt the need for a 22t chainring. Maybe if i stop riding for a few months i can potentially see the need for a 2X system, but as of right now i dont touch it.

    Im even debating stepping away from my 1X9 and going to a 10 spd as there really isnt much of a difference, i think from a ratio from 23.5 to 22?

  39. #339
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    A little off topic, what 30 t rings are you guys running on your 1x 9/10s setups?
    Santa Cruz Bronson 2 27.5/Rockshox Pike/Sram XX1
    Salsa Mukluk/Rockshox Bluto/Sram X1

  40. #340
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    Quote Originally Posted by krispy@go-ride.com View Post
    A little off topic, what 30 t rings are you guys running on your 1x 9/10s setups?
    this is where i got mine for my XT 770 crankset, just removed all the hardware, slapped this ring on and my bashguard and i was good to go. setup is pretty damn light, others are using bling rings and so on, but you will have to purchase a new crank along with chain rings. This guy makes them so we can use our current cranks with very little modifications. here is the thread in regards to, i took pics of my particular setup at the end of the thread:

    30 tooth 104 bcd

    I have been running a 1X9 with my stock 32T chainring, i added a 30t to put a little less strain on my legs when im on those 20mile rides or so. been on 37% grades with this setup and havent had any issues. this can also be run with 10spd setups no probs. so if i do decide to run my 10 speed setup when it comes in, i can. I am still debating though, i might call and cancel my orders considering the ratio differences..very small in comparison to.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by jesse101 View Post
    I agree it would be nice if the price came wayyy down lol even if the cog went up 20 grams in weight for cost svings or whatever..the current price cant be justified.

    I dont see the need to go back to 2X anything, especially when i convert over to 10 spd i currently have 32 and 30 tooth chainrings, which will cover a great del of riding for me in the springs and curt gowdy area. I even took my current 1X9 setup out to great falls mt and never felt the need for a 22t chainring. Maybe if i stop riding for a few months i can potentially see the need for a 2X system, but as of right now i dont touch it.
    If you are happy with 1x9, I don't see why you would even look at XX1...

    XX1 is a replacement for someone on 2x or 3x. If you convert from 2x or 3x to XX1 you can drop a fair amount of weight, have a more durable drive chain and at the same time lose very little gear range.

    If you compare XX1 to XX, the price of XX1 is reasonable. The XX cassette is $395, but the XX crank set is $200 more. If you add in a FD and a second shifter you are looking at several hundred $ less for XX1. It is also lighter and should last longer.

    I'm currently on 1x9 due to my front shifter breaking. I feel I'm missing a gear at both ends. Similar to krispy I'm getting lower back pains doing lots of climbs with 1x9 (e.g. last weekend did 22 miles / 4700 ft climbing). For me XX1 makes sense, even at the current price, so I plan on buying it early next year.

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by krispy@go-ride.com View Post
    A little off topic, what 30 t rings are you guys running on your 1x 9/10s setups?
    I am using a 1x9 with 11-34 in the back and 36 or 32 in the front. I have been putting adding a 24 to the front (2x9) for areas with lots of tech climbing. My trails are pretty flat and I run out of gear with the 32. I would like the XX1 and was looking at going XX 2x10, but the XX1 would cost less for new parts in a group. I would guess that the used xx stuff will come down in price with a lot of it going up for sale because of the XX1.

  43. #343
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    Ok I have just been for a 2 1/2 hour ride with my Jet9 RDO with full XX1 set up, But took the wheel with the XX1 cassette off & fitted the wheel with the 10 speed casette on it gave it a small tune & went out for my ride.

    Here is how it went.

    Shifter Rear cog
    1st 1st = mint
    2nd 2nd = mint
    3rd 3rd = mint
    4th 4th = mint
    5th 5th = mint
    6th 6th = mint
    7th 7th = mint
    8th 8th = mint
    9th 9th = mint
    10th 10th = clicking & not changing down
    11th 10th = mint

    So is well usable & can work well, not perfect but for those that want to build a XX1 bike but cant get the free hub yet, short term you can get away with running the 10 speed cassette.

    I hope this helps someone.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram's New XX1 Group-green-rdo-reynolds-003.jpg  

    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

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    @muzzanic. Thank you! That is good news.

  45. #345
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    I got in a nice solid ride today. I did some stupid steep climbs, up steep hiking trails that are good DH runs. These are climbs i can't clean nonstop on any bike/gearing setup. Equipped with the 30t ring, the climbs were doable, but stopping a few times and the heart rate at redline. The feel of the suspension under power and the smooth feel of the ring, chain and cassette was fantastic. The gearing is adequate for the majority of my rides and gives me a tall gear for high speed descending and road work to and from the trail head. I'd like to switch to a 28t for the winter when i'm breathing in cold air and riding some snow.

    The runs down were just as rocky and offered a nice array of patchy snow and ice. I completely forgot about the drive train and was just focusing on the trail and surfy snow ruts.Thinking back i know i back pedaled to move my feet around, and coasted long sections without getting a forward rotation in. Every time i slid around an icy corner with a foot off i'd jump on the pedals for a few strokes upon exit. I don't recall my chain doing some janky dance for a second before figuring out where it belonged. Just clean and totally silent power delivery. The front ring locks the chain on so well, it seems to help the rear of the bike as well. No doubt the stiff clutch and the completely revised RD linkage are adding up as well.

    The shifting is pretty good. It's reasonably quick from gear to gear from 2nd to 11th. Hopping up to the big ol' alloy 42 isn't 100%, especially in a panic shift to your bailout gear. I can live with it. The other high end Sram cassettes' alloy cogs aren"t much better though.

    As excited as i am to have a wide range in a 1x setup, the quiet-controlled-dependable-locked in feel the drive train has is really a big step forward in bicycle drive trains.
    Last edited by krispy@go-ride.com; 12-13-2012 at 05:53 PM.
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  46. #346
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    One thing i didnt think about that I really love is the simplicity of cleaning the single ring up from. After my ride last night my buddies all had a ton of mud/pine needles caked around the front deraileur, but my bike was fairly clear in that area.

  47. #347
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    Got my new xx1 cranks yesterday and ran them with a 2012 X9 9 speed shifter and derailleur along with a 1090 chain and Shimano 770 9 speed 11-34 cassette. No chain guide or n-stop. Went 12 miles and didn't drop chain on stuff I normally would. Shifted very well and it was very smooth and quiet. This is a great alternative to my old set up with bash guard and n-stop. Got them at Universal for $285. I added $15 more and used VIP15 to get 15% off $300. I the way I look at it I paid $240 for them. Not sure I want to spend the $$$ to go with the full xx1 set up. I must just stick with the X9 and go up to 10 speed and put the 9 speed on my other bike.

  48. #348
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    upgradecycle.com has by far the best prices I've found for xx1. . I got my build kit really quick from them.

  49. #349
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    Yes when they bring the XX1 system down to X01 & X91 it is going to be on most bikes around here.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  50. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    upgradecycle.com has by far the best prices I've found for xx1. . I got my build kit really quick from them.
    that price seems more appealing..however you will still need to purchase a bottom bracket depending which setup you currently run.

    I agree, if they come out with a XO or X9, it will pretty much be standard on most bikes. At that point i will consider. but even at a 1000 dollars, just for a crank, shifter, chain, sprocket and derailleur?

    on average each piece is 250 bucks..then you will also need to purchase a bottom bracket. At any rate it is a nice system, but yes...im kicking back waiting on the XO setup or even the X9, thats if they dont make the rear cog into a boat anchor.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    The body for my Hope hub came in yesterday. And tomorrow my wheels will be build. And after that I guess it will takes ages for the weekend to come



    I got to thinking after I read somewhere that you tighten the whole cassette on the cassette body, how do you get it off? It doesn't seem like there is any cassette body exposed to grab while loosening the cassette. I'm sure there is a way but I just can't picture it in my head.
    I've been looking at the different gear ratios compared to the classic 2x10 and I think it is genius and can't wait to try it out in the spring.
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  52. #352
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    It comes loose the same way you tighten it on the hub! Just use the same tool as you now use for Shimano and SRAM.

    BTW, it wasn't a direct fit to my Hope hub. I needed a new 142x12 driveside adapter. In the pic above you see a adapter which has 2 steps (rings) towards the freehub. The cassette will lock itself on the biggest step (ring). I have somebody at work get rid of the second step (ring) almost completely and it works now. The only part of the secong ring that can stay is the part that will be inside of the freehub.

    I asked Hope and they will come with a seperate adapter for 142x12 XD freehub.
    Last edited by Betzel; 12-16-2012 at 12:48 AM.

  53. #353
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    Any word on when the Mavic freehub will be available?

  54. #354
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    I did a long ride today which included over 3k of climbing. 32t front 42t rear was plenty for all the climbs, but i could see dropping the front to 28t for some summer rides that have 4-6k of climbing.

  55. #355
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    I'd have the opposite problem. I'd need to buy a bigger chainring like a 36 or maybe even a 38. There's no mountains around here.

  56. #356
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    I'd have the opposite problem. I'd need to buy a bigger chainring like a 36 or maybe even a 38. There's no mountains around here.
    I'm always curious about this. Could you elaborate? I'm good for 30 mph with 32x11 on a 29er. There's no way I can push that on the flats with trail tires at 25 psi. The only time I see it is on a sizable paved downhill.

    I always assumed the people looking for higher gearing had the balls/skills to be hitting 30mph on a downhill trail and be interested in pedaling to go faster.

  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm good for 30 mph with 32x11 on a 29er.
    Hmmm, what would your cadence have to be to do that speed? Anything over 100 and I'd shift to a harder gear. Things get weird for me spinning above 120 rpm.
    I think your calculation might be off. Maybe mine is off
    30 miles an hour is 48 k. No one is riding at 48 k for very long on their mtn.bike even on a flat paved road. 50 k is how fast the world's best time trial guys ride on their TT bikes on paved roads. I'd spin out of my 32/11 way before I got to 48k on my 26" HT. I never use my 32 on any paved roads including hills. I can ride in my big ring 44 and big cog 32 and climb everything around here if I feel ok. I never use my granny and only use my middle ring when I'm fried, on a trail I don't know or riding with Expert class guys.

    According to this Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Gear Calculator I'd need a 38 ring with the 10-42 cassette to have the gears I use/need. A 32 chain ring wouldn't work for me where I live. We have hills but no mountains.

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm always curious about this. Could you elaborate? I'm good for 30 mph with 32x11 on a 29er. There's no way I can push that on the flats with trail tires at 25 psi. The only time I see it is on a sizable paved downhill.

    I always assumed the people looking for higher gearing had the balls/skills to be hitting 30mph on a downhill trail and be interested in pedaling to go faster.
    There are a few places on trails that I really like the 40+ MPH down his sections & I wish I could pedal faster, but the thing is they are over so quick & if having to choose I would rather have my bike geared for the rest of the trails.

    I'm really liking the XX1, I have only bothered to get 28,30 & 32 chainrings at this stage & it works well for me.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  59. #359
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    Hmmm, what would your cadence have to be to do that speed? Anything over 100 and I'd shift to a harder gear. Things get weird for me spinning above 120 rpm.
    That's as measured by my Garmin going down a long, steep hill on the road. I certainly can't push that on the flats, which is why I'm always curious about the people that ask for taller gearing. There are absolutely zero trails near me where I'd feel the need to pedal if I were going that speed.

    As for the math:
    30 mph = 0.5 miles/min = 31680 inches/min
    29" * PI = 91.1 inches
    31680/91.1 = 347.75 rpm (wheel)
    347.75 * 11/32 = 119.5 rpm (crank)

  60. #360
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    Yeah, that's too high rpm. We're both right. I wouldn't pedal that fast. I could but it would feel awkward. I'd shift to a bigger cog/chainring and have a slower cadence.
    There's no way I'd be able to use a 32/10 as my biggest gear, even my 39/11 on my cross bike wouldn't be high enough. I can use my 53 chainring on a few trails around here and I can almost climb my hills in my 39/27 on my cross bike.
    It all depends on where you live and your fitness. I guess it's pretty flat around here. The guys on double ring XX can climb everything in the 39 big ring, they never use the 26 unless they're hurting.

  61. #361
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    anyone with grip shifters getting accidental shifts?

  62. #362
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    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    I only ride bikes to fill the time when I'm not skiing.

  63. #363
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    Yes it will be because it is only the cassette side that needed the full redesign & the freehub still has to fit into the same hub & work the same.
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  64. #364
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    what lubes are people using?

  65. #365
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    1x11 that's ten gears more then I need.

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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    As an FYI, I got from one of the UK Hope Techshops, the special thinner pawl springs (which are less heavily sprung) and once swopped out, makes the hub a good deal quieter. If anything it seems to be too quiet now as I now have to use my bell to warn hikers that are up ahead.

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldHouseMan View Post
    Is the xx1 Hope freehub body as loud as the standard Hope Freehub?

    I like my Hope hubs, but damn they are loud.
    Yeah, it's the pawl springs, not the body. Hope has softer, quieter springs now. I replaced my freehub body this summer and it came with the new springs, so I'd expect the XX1 bodies to have them too. They are noticeably quieter, although not what you'd call silent. Cheap, easy part to replace if it bothers you. Personally, I miss the noise. People hear me coming, which is nice on multi-use trails.

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by limba View Post
    I'd have the opposite problem. I'd need to buy a bigger chainring like a 36 or maybe even a 38. There's no mountains around here.
    I'm sure you're aware of this, but they offer rings from 28-38. Jerome Clementz used a 38t on his 26" Cannondale to win some of the biggest Enduro races in the country.
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  69. #369
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    Oh yeah, I know. I've already done the math and commented elsewhere in this thread. I'm not complaining about XX1. I think it's a great idea. I'm seriously thinking about buying it for next year but I'll have to spend another 100 dollars for a bigger chain ring.

  70. #370
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    I was just watching the Sram XX1 cross country video on their site, some good info..

    They mentioned Kulhavy (29er) using a 36t at the olympic games, and then dropping down 2 teeth for the world championships.

    Shurter (27.5) mentioned using a 38t.
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  71. #371
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    Cool. I'm on a 26".

    *creepy voice*

    but I want Nino's 27.5 Scott.

  72. #372
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    The SRAM guys at the 2x10 experience demo events advised people to stay in the big ring when riding trails. Didn't spend 2 hours on it to test endurance, but it wasn't hard to totally avoid the granny ring. Not surprised to hear people running XX1 with bigger rings.

    Don't forget that a majority of rear suspension designs were designed to work best with a 32T ring. Browse this site if you want to read how a well-known guy analyzes different suspension designs: Linkage Design

  73. #373
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    It comes loose the same way you tighten it on the hub! Just use the same tool as you now use for Shimano and SRAM.

    BTW, it wasn't a direct fit to my Hope hub. I needed a new 142x12 driveside adapter. In the pic above you see a adapter which has 2 steps (rings) towards the freehub. The cassette will lock itself on the biggest step (ring). I have somebody at work get rid of the second step (ring) almost completely and it works now. The only part of the secong ring that can stay is the part that will be inside of the freehub.

    I asked Hope and they will come with a seperate adapter for 142x12 XD freehub.
    I caught a video somewhere that shows how it goes on, the lock ring and inner sleeve are retained inside the cassette. The outside 42 ring lock on the body with the inner sleeve tightening everything on. Very cool stuff!
    RIDE MF RIDE,
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  74. #374
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    X9 9spd/ XX Brakes

    dont know where to put this as i am new to this forum, but i have an X9 9spd shifter and an Avid XX read brake setup. will the matchmaker x work for this setup? if not, what specifically do i need?

  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    It comes loose the same way you tighten it on the hub! Just use the same tool as you now use for Shimano and SRAM.

    BTW, it wasn't a direct fit to my Hope hub. I needed a new 142x12 driveside adapter. In the pic above you see a adapter which has 2 steps (rings) towards the freehub. The cassette will lock itself on the biggest step (ring). I have somebody at work get rid of the second step (ring) almost completely and it works now. The only part of the secong ring that can stay is the part that will be inside of the freehub.

    I asked Hope and they will come with a seperate adapter for 142x12 XD freehub.
    I'm in process of sourcing parts for old Pro 2 to XD driver, so you need to take drive side adapter from Pro 2 EVO to lathe and trim off the wider lip to make the cassette fit?

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerchord85 View Post
    dont know where to put this as i am new to this forum, but i have an X9 9spd shifter and an Avid XX read brake setup. will the matchmaker x work for this setup? if not, what specifically do i need?
    Hi, Yes the X type will fit the shifter & the brake.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by needajob View Post
    Got my new xx1 cranks yesterday and ran them with a 2012 X9 9 speed shifter and derailleur along with a 1090 chain and Shimano 770 9 speed 11-34 cassette. No chain guide or n-stop. Went 12 miles and didn't drop chain on stuff I normally would. Shifted very well and it was very smooth and quiet. This is a great alternative to my old set up with bash guard and n-stop. Got them at Universal for $285. I added $15 more and used VIP15 to get 15% off $300. I the way I look at it I paid $240 for them. Not sure I want to spend the $$$ to go with the full xx1 set up. I must just stick with the X9 and go up to 10 speed and put the 9 speed on my other bike.
    So... I was wondering here. I tried to order XX1 cranks to replace my 3x10 drivetrain but my supplier said that I need a different chain with XX1 and then it wont work with my XTR rear mech. I rarely need the 3x10 so I want to change to 1x10 and I would love to use the XX1 cranks so I don't have to use chain guide on front. Ideally the full groupset would be perfect but I'm an a student budget

    I guess the cranks should run fine with normal 10spd chain, as I believe the inner width is the same afterall?

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by tezi View Post
    So... I was wondering here. I tried to order XX1 cranks to replace my 3x10 drivetrain but my supplier said that I need a different chain with XX1 and then it wont work with my XTR rear mech. I rarely need the 3x10 so I want to change to 1x10 and I would love to use the XX1 cranks so I don't have to use chain guide on front. Ideally the full groupset would be perfect but I'm an a student budget

    I guess the cranks should run fine with normal 10spd chain, as I believe the inner width is the same afterall?
    I just talked to my LBS and got the go ahead on the XX1 cranks to replace my current XT cranks that I'm running 1x10. . I'm still using the MRP1x until I go full XX1.

    You will still need some type of front guide to keep the chain on the ring.

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by azpoolguy View Post
    I just talked to my LBS and got the go ahead on the XX1 cranks to replace my current XT cranks that I'm running 1x10. . I'm still using the MRP1x until I go full XX1.

    You will still need some type of front guide to keep the chain on the ring.
    That's nice. I have the XTR shadow+ so I'll try without the guide first and see if it works.

  80. #380
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    I have over 100 miles on my xx1 cranks with a 9 speed chain, x9 short cage derailleur and shimano 770 9 speed cassette. I am not using a chain guide and have not dropped the chain. Good news for those who want to start with just the cranks.

  81. #381
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    So does anyone have a weight on the XX1 crankset? W/O ring for comparison sake. Does it only come for 1 width BB (73?) and length (175?) Threaded or press in?

    I want my next crank set to be as light as possible and am also thinking of XX1. So if they can go together.... great.

    Specialized has come up with some light cranks lately I think but I haven't checked into it.

    I'm assuming the XX1 rings are dedicated.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  82. #382
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    If you really want to know which crank is the lightest that will work with XX1 you might have to wait a bit. It will probably be either Lightning (Specialized) or Hollowgrams. I'd wait a month and ask again in the weight weenie forum.

  83. #383
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    But the lightning or hollowgram are double the cost of xx1. I just saw a used sworks go on ebay for 400 shipped. New xx1 is $285.

    Who has a weight?

  84. #384
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    My 175MM GXP 168 Q Factor XX1 crank weighed 555 grams with 28 tooth ring and without bottom bracket.

  85. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by needajob View Post
    I have over 100 miles on my xx1 cranks with a 9 speed chain, x9 short cage derailleur and shimano 770 9 speed cassette. I am not using a chain guide and have not dropped the chain. Good news for those who want to start with just the cranks.
    Is the X9 derailleur a type 2 ?

  86. #386
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    No it's not type 2. It's a short cage x9 model just before the type 2. No problems at all.

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    you'll never need a chain guide. sram guarantees it. Even Sram's enduro bikes do their insane gravity stuff without a chain guide and its never come off.

  88. #388
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    Specialized look to be ~ 40g lighter (based on this thread). No idea when their spider will be widely available though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    But the lightning or hollowgram are double the cost of xx1. I just saw a used sworks go on ebay for 400 shipped. New xx1 is $285.

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  89. #389
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    You'll never need a chain guide. Sram guarantees it. Even Andy Schleck can ride it and almost never drop a chain.

  90. #390
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    More hype for XX1. It just won an award for product of the year from VitalMTB.

    2012 MTB Product of the Year, Vital MTB Shreddy Award - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    More hype for XX1. It just won an award for product of the year from VitalMTB.

    2012 MTB Product of the Year, Vital MTB Shreddy Award - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB
    Yes it is so nice to use.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  92. #392
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    +1 Muzzanic. Hopefully my second ride this weekend. First ride was amazing. Love it!

  93. #393
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    Has anyone ridden XX! with grip shift yet?
    Transition Scout Carbon

  94. #394
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    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
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  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    How thick is the spacer? Is it an odd diameter or can you change out with another? Normal spacers are what,1/8"? 1/8" isn't going to give you 3 cogs of alignment correction. If it's that off I'd run no spacer on the right and move it to the left and see what happens.

    Something odd is going on somewhere. I'd call Sram.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    +1 Muzzanic. Hopefully my second ride this weekend. First ride was amazing. Love it!
    Yup. Game. Changer.

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    And is your BB 73 or 83mm, if yes, do you have 2.5mm spacers there? If yes, remove them, 2.5mm spacers are for 68mm BB only.

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    We will need more Info.

    What bike are you fitting it to, Not sure that it matters but are you sure the BB is in the right way ?

    I have not fitted a BB30 XX1 crank but have fitted the X0 BB30 & I'm sure it is the same crank.

    There are options with dust cover seals, You haven't got them all fitted have you ?

    What side fo you have the wavey washer fitted ?

    Has the guy read the instructions, I have never had a problem fitting Sram BB30 & I have always fitted the wide spacer & never need to machine it.

    I think you may need to take it to another bike shop.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  99. #399
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    Thanks for the responses. The spacers, washers, etc. are all in the spots indicated by the instructions. The drive side spacer is ~10-12mm thick. If the spacer is moved to the other side, the chainring is too close to the frame. If it is removed entirely, the crankset can slide back and forth. We can get several MM of adjustment from the non-drive-side threaded spacer, but because of the large drive-side spacer, it doesn't change anything on the driveside. I'll try to get some more specific measurements and pics today.
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  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Thanks for the responses. The spacers, washers, etc. are all in the spots indicated by the instructions. The drive side spacer is ~10-12mm thick. If the spacer is moved to the other side, the chainring is too close to the frame. If it is removed entirely, the crankset can slide back and forth. We can get several MM of adjustment from the non-drive-side threaded spacer, but because of the large drive-side spacer, it doesn't change anything on the driveside. I'll try to get some more specific measurements and pics today.
    Sounds like you have 73mm bottom bracket and are not using the preload adjustment properly.

    Before installing the non drive side crank through the bottom bracket, hand tighten the knob that will sit next to the non drive side bearing when inserted. Insert spindle, do not use that 10-12mm spacer, attach the drive side and then go back to that knob thing on non drive side to remove play. That knob is called preload adjuster and is the solution to your problem.

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