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  1. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by powerchord85 View Post
    dont know where to put this as i am new to this forum, but i have an X9 9spd shifter and an Avid XX read brake setup. will the matchmaker x work for this setup? if not, what specifically do i need?
    Hi, Yes the X type will fit the shifter & the brake.

  2. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by needajob View Post
    Got my new xx1 cranks yesterday and ran them with a 2012 X9 9 speed shifter and derailleur along with a 1090 chain and Shimano 770 9 speed 11-34 cassette. No chain guide or n-stop. Went 12 miles and didn't drop chain on stuff I normally would. Shifted very well and it was very smooth and quiet. This is a great alternative to my old set up with bash guard and n-stop. Got them at Universal for $285. I added $15 more and used VIP15 to get 15% off $300. I the way I look at it I paid $240 for them. Not sure I want to spend the $$$ to go with the full xx1 set up. I must just stick with the X9 and go up to 10 speed and put the 9 speed on my other bike.
    So... I was wondering here. I tried to order XX1 cranks to replace my 3x10 drivetrain but my supplier said that I need a different chain with XX1 and then it wont work with my XTR rear mech. I rarely need the 3x10 so I want to change to 1x10 and I would love to use the XX1 cranks so I don't have to use chain guide on front. Ideally the full groupset would be perfect but I'm an a student budget

    I guess the cranks should run fine with normal 10spd chain, as I believe the inner width is the same afterall?

  3. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by tezi View Post
    So... I was wondering here. I tried to order XX1 cranks to replace my 3x10 drivetrain but my supplier said that I need a different chain with XX1 and then it wont work with my XTR rear mech. I rarely need the 3x10 so I want to change to 1x10 and I would love to use the XX1 cranks so I don't have to use chain guide on front. Ideally the full groupset would be perfect but I'm an a student budget

    I guess the cranks should run fine with normal 10spd chain, as I believe the inner width is the same afterall?
    I just talked to my LBS and got the go ahead on the XX1 cranks to replace my current XT cranks that I'm running 1x10. . I'm still using the MRP1x until I go full XX1.

    You will still need some type of front guide to keep the chain on the ring.

  4. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by azpoolguy View Post
    I just talked to my LBS and got the go ahead on the XX1 cranks to replace my current XT cranks that I'm running 1x10. . I'm still using the MRP1x until I go full XX1.

    You will still need some type of front guide to keep the chain on the ring.
    That's nice. I have the XTR shadow+ so I'll try without the guide first and see if it works.

  5. #380
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    I have over 100 miles on my xx1 cranks with a 9 speed chain, x9 short cage derailleur and shimano 770 9 speed cassette. I am not using a chain guide and have not dropped the chain. Good news for those who want to start with just the cranks.

  6. #381
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    So does anyone have a weight on the XX1 crankset? W/O ring for comparison sake. Does it only come for 1 width BB (73?) and length (175?) Threaded or press in?

    I want my next crank set to be as light as possible and am also thinking of XX1. So if they can go together.... great.

    Specialized has come up with some light cranks lately I think but I haven't checked into it.

    I'm assuming the XX1 rings are dedicated.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  7. #382
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    If you really want to know which crank is the lightest that will work with XX1 you might have to wait a bit. It will probably be either Lightning (Specialized) or Hollowgrams. I'd wait a month and ask again in the weight weenie forum.

  8. #383
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    But the lightning or hollowgram are double the cost of xx1. I just saw a used sworks go on ebay for 400 shipped. New xx1 is $285.

    Who has a weight?

  9. #384
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    My 175MM GXP 168 Q Factor XX1 crank weighed 555 grams with 28 tooth ring and without bottom bracket.

  10. #385
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    Quote Originally Posted by needajob View Post
    I have over 100 miles on my xx1 cranks with a 9 speed chain, x9 short cage derailleur and shimano 770 9 speed cassette. I am not using a chain guide and have not dropped the chain. Good news for those who want to start with just the cranks.
    Is the X9 derailleur a type 2 ?

  11. #386
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    No it's not type 2. It's a short cage x9 model just before the type 2. No problems at all.

  12. #387
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    you'll never need a chain guide. sram guarantees it. Even Sram's enduro bikes do their insane gravity stuff without a chain guide and its never come off.

  13. #388
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    Specialized look to be ~ 40g lighter (based on this thread). No idea when their spider will be widely available though.

    2013 Stumpy EVO S-Works 29er




    Quote Originally Posted by Adroit Rider View Post
    But the lightning or hollowgram are double the cost of xx1. I just saw a used sworks go on ebay for 400 shipped. New xx1 is $285.

    Who has a weight?
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  14. #389
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    You'll never need a chain guide. Sram guarantees it. Even Andy Schleck can ride it and almost never drop a chain.

  15. #390
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    More hype for XX1. It just won an award for product of the year from VitalMTB.

    2012 MTB Product of the Year, Vital MTB Shreddy Award - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB

  16. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varaxis View Post
    More hype for XX1. It just won an award for product of the year from VitalMTB.

    2012 MTB Product of the Year, Vital MTB Shreddy Award - Mountain Biking Videos - Vital MTB
    Yes it is so nice to use.

  17. #392
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    +1 Muzzanic. Hopefully my second ride this weekend. First ride was amazing. Love it!

  18. #393
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    Has anyone ridden XX! with grip shift yet?
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  19. #394
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    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
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  20. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    How thick is the spacer? Is it an odd diameter or can you change out with another? Normal spacers are what,1/8"? 1/8" isn't going to give you 3 cogs of alignment correction. If it's that off I'd run no spacer on the right and move it to the left and see what happens.

    Something odd is going on somewhere. I'd call Sram.
    No it never stops hurting, but if you keep at it you can go faster.

  21. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Betzel View Post
    +1 Muzzanic. Hopefully my second ride this weekend. First ride was amazing. Love it!
    Yup. Game. Changer.

  22. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    And is your BB 73 or 83mm, if yes, do you have 2.5mm spacers there? If yes, remove them, 2.5mm spacers are for 68mm BB only.

  23. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Having trouble with my XX1(BB30) installation. The LBS mechanic is doing the work, but he can't get the crankset properly aligned. The drive-side spacer is too large and puts the chain ring so far to the outside that the chain can't get to the 2 lowest gears consistently falls off the chain ring when in the 3rd gear.

    The plan is to turn down the spacer in a lathe to shift the chainring closer to center. Anyone else have this issue?
    We will need more Info.

    What bike are you fitting it to, Not sure that it matters but are you sure the BB is in the right way ?

    I have not fitted a BB30 XX1 crank but have fitted the X0 BB30 & I'm sure it is the same crank.

    There are options with dust cover seals, You haven't got them all fitted have you ?

    What side fo you have the wavey washer fitted ?

    Has the guy read the instructions, I have never had a problem fitting Sram BB30 & I have always fitted the wide spacer & never need to machine it.

    I think you may need to take it to another bike shop.

  24. #399
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    Thanks for the responses. The spacers, washers, etc. are all in the spots indicated by the instructions. The drive side spacer is ~10-12mm thick. If the spacer is moved to the other side, the chainring is too close to the frame. If it is removed entirely, the crankset can slide back and forth. We can get several MM of adjustment from the non-drive-side threaded spacer, but because of the large drive-side spacer, it doesn't change anything on the driveside. I'll try to get some more specific measurements and pics today.
    Photos from mountain biking in Nepal:
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  25. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobRobideau View Post
    Thanks for the responses. The spacers, washers, etc. are all in the spots indicated by the instructions. The drive side spacer is ~10-12mm thick. If the spacer is moved to the other side, the chainring is too close to the frame. If it is removed entirely, the crankset can slide back and forth. We can get several MM of adjustment from the non-drive-side threaded spacer, but because of the large drive-side spacer, it doesn't change anything on the driveside. I'll try to get some more specific measurements and pics today.
    Sounds like you have 73mm bottom bracket and are not using the preload adjustment properly.

    Before installing the non drive side crank through the bottom bracket, hand tighten the knob that will sit next to the non drive side bearing when inserted. Insert spindle, do not use that 10-12mm spacer, attach the drive side and then go back to that knob thing on non drive side to remove play. That knob is called preload adjuster and is the solution to your problem.

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