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  1. #276
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    Quote Originally Posted by car_nut View Post
    I'm guessing this is the new Shimano 11-spd road hub.
    Probably, new duraace 9000 is mechanical 11spd

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  2. #277
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    Yep it has the title "Shimano 11 speed road cassette bodies are here!"

  3. #278
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    @Varaxis

    Nice review, thanks for posting. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get XX1 early next year. Currently running 1x9 due to a broken front shifter. I can get up pretty much any climb, but I'm planning on doing longer races in 2013 and I feel I could use a bail out gear if my legs start to crash during a race. Also could do with a high gear for some long downhills on fire roads, so a smaller front chanring won't help.

    I'm 50/50 on the shifter vs the twist. I like the idea of the twist, but I use my middle finger for braking. My LBS currently has the Specialized epic XX1 and I noticed that the twist shifter pushes the brake pretty far along the bar and is more suited to index finger braking. Need to test ride it to see though.

    As for the XX1 chainrings on non-XX1 crankset, the S-works epic and stumpy HT have XX1 chainrings on the Specialized cranks.

  4. #279
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    Yes, I remember Bikerumour or Radar saying something about the twist shifter being in the "wrong" spot. When you put your hands in the normal riding position you have to reach to twist the shifter. Every rider is different so you should check it out before buying.

  5. #280
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    I think it's probably worth buying a slightly longer bar to allow for the length of the shifters, I'd love to (literally) get my hands on one to see, apparently the braking is meant to be single finger....and I assume it's dependant on your hands size...I know I sometimes release my grip to press my SRAM shifters so maybe the twist is a little like that ? And my hands are quite large

  6. #281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xtyling View Post
    I'm guessing the tension of the rear derailuer is from a very stiff spring tension.. I wonder how long will the spring tension will be able to last.. Most springs eventually give out.
    The cage is normally sprung, but it has a roller bearing to control the cage movement. They said it should last approximately 5 years then probably go back to a normal sprung cage.

  7. #282
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    Take what I said as an first impression.

    Some of the feeling in the crazy high tension is due to the Type 2 clutch sort of holding the cage, probably. Just played with an XX RD I had laying around and tried comparing the "pinching pressure" (pinching something between the parallelogram and cage) and it's not like it would put nice deep marks into your finger if you stuck it in there. While the XX is pretty comfortable clamped onto my finger, the XX1 felt like that'd be a bad idea to even try. Not the greatest test for cage tension, but who knows if all the downsides of excessive chain tension really results in bad traits with the XX1 chain (with 4x claimed lifetime) and this XX1 drivetrain. Sounds like the crisp snappy shifting is a positive thing, according to some ride reports.

    The GripShift release feels like a big speed bump, off the bike. You can probably imagine that a RD's spring tension pulling on it would ease it up some, but it would also put some resistance on cable pull.

    Not sure why the chainrings cost so much. If they put a DLC finish on it, I'm sure they'd advertise it, as that's a very expensive finish. I think they are probably just charging that much since they're using a blank as thick as the widest tooth in the X-Sync tooth profile, and CNC'ing it all. Compare to Shimano XTR (or DuraAce) geared rings, Rotor Q-Rings, Praxis specially forged and CNC'd rings, and Renthal 1x rings...

    I splurged over the summer on MTB stuff, so I'm in no rush to buy stuff. Trying stuff, on the other hand, is always fun, though that comes with the risk of wanting to try it again (and again). No harm in holding off, but like muzzanic said, if you're buying a new drivetrain anyways, XX1 is one to seriously take a look at. Probably not worth upgrading an existing one unless you absolutely must have the latest and greatest. He also said he's been fine with the stock 32T ring, so no need to pay for the expensive chainrings. You'd prob shed a tear when it comes time to replace the cassette though, unless they create a cheaper pinned cassette with that lockring sleeve thingee.

  8. #283
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    mine ships tomorrow
    its snow bike season so I will not try it out till March,ish
    just letting you know they are shipping the bb30 stuff

    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  9. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbco1975 View Post
    I'm 50/50 on the shifter vs the twist. I like the idea of the twist, but I use my middle finger for braking. My LBS currently has the Specialized epic XX1 and I noticed that the twist shifter pushes the brake pretty far along the bar and is more suited to index finger braking. Need to test ride it to see though.
    This is easily resolved with a shorter grip. The stock gripshift grips are like 120mm long (way too long imo). I cut down a set of ergons to 85mm and that has been the sweet spot for my hands. You would be able to middle finger brake with shorter grips.

  10. #285
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    who gave me the rep
    you didn't sign it and I would like to give some back
    don't make me rep everyone in here
    I will find you LOL

    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  11. #286
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    who gave me the rep
    you didn't sign it and I would like to give some back
    don't make me rep everyone in here
    I will find you LOL

    Sj
    MARS
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    JKing!

  12. #287
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    Quote Originally Posted by SlowerJoe View Post
    who gave me the rep
    you didn't sign it and I would like to give some back
    don't make me rep everyone in here
    I will find you LOL

    Sj
    I didn't but I guess you gave all of us rep so I'll sent it back. Don't rep me again!

  13. #288
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    Quote Originally Posted by toons101 View Post
    Yep it has the title "Shimano 11 speed road cassette bodies are here!"
    Yes sorry guys maybe it was just excitement should have read the post properly

  14. #289
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    Quote Originally Posted by danridesbikes View Post
    Yup ceramic SRAM bb - yup spacer is installed

    Will try with 1x spacer on the drive side
    The important thing to remember is that with GXP, tightening the bolt on the left crank arm squeezes the inner race of the left bearing between the crank spindle and the left crank arm. The right bearing floats axially on the spindle.

    It can take more torque than you are probably applying to get it to clamp well enough and take out the play. In my experience the ceramic BBs are troublesome with this. Not sure why you'd spend the (way) extra for the ceramic anyway, especially as there's no way to preload the bearings with GXP. Being able to preload bearings can significantly extend their life.

    54Nm is the max spec, and that's 25% more than a cassette locking. Keep in mind that you usually have 30-35cm of chain whip and wheel to use as a lever with the lockring, but only about 17-18cm of leverage with your cranks and 10mm hex wrench. So, it takes a lot more effort to install a GXP crank than a cassette lockring.


    As for XX1, I would consider using the crank for other 1x setups, like a Shimano/SRAM 1x10 (or even the SRAmano 1x9 Shadow+).

    You can't use the chainrings on other cranks because the bolt holes don't actually all lie on one circle. They're asymmetric.

  15. #290
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    Almost a week later than I was originally told, but my xx1 build kit is finally on the way. I had my new bike fully built up at the end up September, so it will be nice to finally ride it!

    Is anyone using any kind of guide or bash with their xx1? I preordered the MRP AMG, and was told that should ship around the 8th.

  16. #291
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    Almost a week later than I was originally told, but my xx1 build kit is finally on the way. I had my new bike fully built up at the end up September, so it will be nice to finally ride it!

    Is anyone using any kind of guide or bash with their xx1? I preordered the MRP AMG, and was told that should ship around the 8th.
    I have seen no need with mine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Sram's New XX1 Group-green-rdo-xx-004.jpg  


  17. #292
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    I haven't needed one either.

  18. #293
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    Any thoughts....

    Drive trains have gone to utilizing larger cogs out back, whether is was with a 2x10 with 36t cog out back, and now the 1x11 with a 42t out back. This is putting relative more weight farther away from the BB area. Compare the weight of a 10 speed 36t to a 9 speed 32t, then throw that weight way out back, at the end of a long chainstay.

    Maybe this is insignificant, but seems to me a fair amount of bike weight is being pushed far out back. For riders on 29ers, with longer stays, that might add up to where it could conceivably affect the feel of the ride.

    Any thoughts?

  19. #294
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Any thoughts....

    Drive trains have gone to utilizing larger cogs out back, whether is was with a 2x10 with 36t cog out back, and now the 1x11 with a 42t out back. This is putting relative more weight farther away from the BB area. Compare the weight of a 10 speed 36t to a 9 speed 32t, then throw that weight way out back, at the end of a long chainstay.

    Maybe this is insignificant, but seems to me a fair amount of bike weight is being pushed far out back. For riders on 29ers, with longer stays, that might add up to where it could conceivably affect the feel of the ride.

    Any thoughts?
    Horseshit. Have you seen the weight spec on this cassette? Its ridiculously light weight 260 grams. Tire changes have more impact

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

  20. #295
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    Ok...

    Quote Originally Posted by cpfitness View Post
    Horseshit. Have you seen the weight spec on this cassette? Its ridiculously light weight 260 grams. Tire changes have more impact

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
    Ok, im all wet.

    Wow, I didn't see the feather-like weight on that cassette. No wonder it cost a fortune.

  21. #296
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miker J View Post
    Ok, im all wet.

    Wow, I didn't see the feather-like weight on that cassette. No wonder it cost a fortune.
    Yes a few of my car race friends looked at my cassette & said thats not a bike part, That is Art.

  22. #297
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    Muzzanic,

    Have you had a chance to go up any really steep stuff on your new XX1?
    I saw that you were coming from a 36/26 and seem to not be able to tell much different at all. Can you expand no that at all, i.e. you give up a little on the climbs or you lose some top end speed?

    Any thing else that would be helpful when considering making this move?

    I am currently on XX with a 39/26 up front and 36 out back and will be riding a lot around Montana, Idaho, and some in Tahoe area. I havent really ever had to get off and walk up anything steep unless it was so washed out it was just easier to run up it.

  23. #298
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    Quote Originally Posted by simpy16 View Post
    Muzzanic,

    Have you had a chance to go up any really steep stuff on your new XX1?
    I saw that you were coming from a 36/26 and seem to not be able to tell much different at all. Can you expand no that at all, i.e. you give up a little on the climbs or you lose some top end speed?

    Any thing else that would be helpful when considering making this move?

    I am currently on XX with a 39/26 up front and 36 out back and will be riding a lot around Montana, Idaho, and some in Tahoe area. I havent really ever had to get off and walk up anything steep unless it was so washed out it was just easier to run up it.
    If you run a 42 back with a 30 tooth front it is almost the same ratio as 36 back with a 26 front for the low
    If you run a 32 tooth front ring it is like running a 34 tooth rear with a 26 tooth front for the low
    you really do not give up allot with this system
    I can't wait to run mine next spring

    Sj
    I am slow therefore I am

  24. #299
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    Slower joe. Thanks for the number crunching.

    2 thing.

    1. How much weight savings did you see if you came from a XX group?
    2. How would I know what Q factor I would need for my crankset?

    I think I may run a 31 if they make it and put me right in the middle and then I will just man up for the rest.

    Oops! Nevermind there is only 30 or 32. Might just have to buy both trade out when I feel like I might need more for climbing.

  25. #300
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    Hi

    I have been riding only the most gut busting trails around here since I built up this bike to get a real idea what this group gives up to the XX 26/39 with 36-11 cassette on my other Jet9 RDO.

    On the climbs with the 32 front ring I not finding it to be any harder than with the XX.

    I put the 30 tooth front ring on for last night to see how it went on the same trials, & to be honest what it really did was make me climb the real steep stuff in second gear were as with the 32 f ring I was in 1st.

    As for the top end yes there is a loss of top gear but it does high light how seldom you are in your highest gear.

    Is it faster ??

    Yes, On the trails I have been riding on the downs there is some real sharp switch backs & you need to scrub off alot of speed ( almost stopped ) & then power out the other side, With the XX1 you are right on the right gearing & get out of the gear real fast.

    Were as with the XX you are in the big ring & you are about to have to change up a heap of gears so there is no way you would drop to the small ring because you would have to change up again in 20 feet so the XX is quite a bit slower out of the corner than the XX1.

    Ok so alot of people already run a 32 front ring on a none XX1 setup so whats the difference, Well on the climbs or rolling steep you once again are in the right gear all the time with the XX1 were as with the XX you can often just hold a lower gear because within 20 to 40 feet you need to be back in the small ring again.


    So big form me.

    Note I managed to run the same chain length with 30 or 32 front ring.

    Quote Originally Posted by simpy16 View Post
    Muzzanic,

    Have you had a chance to go up any really steep stuff on your new XX1?
    I saw that you were coming from a 36/26 and seem to not be able to tell much different at all. Can you expand no that at all, i.e. you give up a little on the climbs or you lose some top end speed?

    Any thing else that would be helpful when considering making this move?

    I am currently on XX with a 39/26 up front and 36 out back and will be riding a lot around Montana, Idaho, and some in Tahoe area. I havent really ever had to get off and walk up anything steep unless it was so washed out it was just easier to run up it.

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