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  1. #1
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    Specialized Fox Brain shock question

    2012 Epic. I know the only at home maintenance that can be done on the Fox Brain shock is pulling back the air sleeve and applying Fox Shock float oil to the o-rings. Then 2cc of oil goes in before you screw the can back on. I got to thinking and was wondering. Would it be ok to just remove the air, take out the shrader valve and inject about 2 1/2 cc's of Fox float fluid directly into the air sleeve. Rather than taking it all apart. My thinking is that the oil will find its way on to the parts just the same. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
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    That wouldn't drain the old oil out; plus you wouldn't have any control over how much is in there. It only addresses one part of drain, clean, and refill. I suspect you are hoping to avoid the recommended annual service. I can sympathize with that.

    I pulled the air can on mine after two years. The oil was pretty clean. I'd consider just leaving it alone and sending it in every two years. But it all depends upon how much you ride and what conditions it's been run under. I think Spesh is right about annual service if you're racing or really putting on a lot of hard and dirty service. But there's no real way of being sure that you wouldn't have been fine not bothering to service it.

    Of course, when you send your shock in for service, it's a wonderful opportunity for the shop to loan you a newer and more expensive model to fall in love with while waiting for your shock. So it's cheaper to send it in when there's snow on the ground and you don't need a loaner.

  3. #3
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    My goal is to provide more oil without pulling it apart.(I think its low but everything is working fine) I was thinking that the old oil could be drained out through the air valve (schrader removed) hole over night. Then some new Fox oil could be put back in through the hole with the schrader valve out. It appears that a step in the service directions says to put 2cc's in before you screw the can back on. Looks like that puts oil on top of the piston. To me....that appears as if it will make it's way to the shaft and o-rings. Just wondering if the oil could be drained and refiled through the shrader valve hole ? That hole goes to the same place ? I do not ride this bike very much but when I do, I enjoy it. I started noticing the shock shaft was a little dry....figured it was time for some oil at least. Rather than opening it and risking damage to a perfectly good o-ring etc.....

  4. #4
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    I think the o-ring will be good for a few rounds; I've re-used them before and never had any problem. just regrease it before you refit the can. The schrader valves are more likely to get leaky if you refit them. I've seen lots of schrader leaks but no o-ring leaks but maybe it's just luck. I'm no shockologist, but I think the oil will migrate to the negative chamber over time.

    For all the time it takes, just loosen the can and put the bike on a stand so the shock is pointing down at the top and drain it out. Tilt it the other way to refill the can. You can, apparently, if you take the shock off, pull the can down over the hose noodle and clean the seals, but it's pretty risky if you don't have replacements. I'd just give it an oil change and ride.

    Mine was oozing a lot of oil when I first got it -used - and continued to do so. When I pulled the can it had lots in there - maybe from the damper leaking into the can - but the shock was making weird sounds and didn't work like it did. Had it serviced and there were some broken bits inside. Now it is not leaving much of anything on the shaft, but works properly.

    I think that if you screw the adjuster down hard and do drops you can get the pressures pretty high inside; you're also asking for a lot of oil to move awfully fast through the hose. I just use enough platform to kill any bob in the bigger ring and that works out to about 4 clicks up or two on the new ones for my weight. It's counterproductive to run more tension than you need IMO, unless you have to have a hard feel to be happy.

  5. #5
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    Ok, that sounds good.....rather than risking a torn o-ring or screwing with the schrader valve. Pull back the can, drain it out, refill, screw the can back in ?

    My shock is working fine, I see no oil left behind on the shaft like you do on a fork. This is what makes me think (does it need oil or is that normal). The bike has about 20 hours worth of time on it. Do I ride another season....or perform some general maintenance this winter on it ? I rather not send out the FOX now...next year, fine. I just don't want to trash something this early or make a rookie mistake. LOL

  6. #6
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    20 hrs.? I do that in two or three weeks depending on the weather. Times 8 months a year...you're just getting it broken in. I'd think about servicing the air can at about 100 hours and deciding whether you want to have Spesh do the whole shebang or just wing it.

    You may not actually see any oil on the shaft depending upon how well the seals are doing but it will leave a microscopic film. All it needs is a molecule, plus the sealing rings are teflon and the seals are rubber and the shaft is anodized [or whatever magic they do] so it's not like you need oil on there much. I like to put some fork oil on the shaft and bounce it up and down a few times just to flush the dirt off the wiper seal when I do my chain, just like with a fork. Just don't try to clean the shaft with solvent and strip the lube off it unless you plan to re coat it.

  7. #7
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    Great info bulerias. I got the bike early fall and it's my first bike with suspension. I learn so much from other people on here. I love this forum, great info and lots of great people. Thanks again for the shock info.....very helpful.

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