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  1. #1
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    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body

    I have ridden about 300ish miles on the hub. The freehub body cracked.

    In 20+ years, I have never broken a freehub body before. I do not ever recall seeing a broken one.

    Shimano is sending a warrantee freehub body through my LBS. That is going to take a couple weeks.

    I was not willing to miss riding for a month. So, I bought another XT hub and swapped the freehub body from it. According to Shimano technical documents (here) the XTR freehub body is interchangeable. The XTR may hold up - it is titanium. However, the XT and XTR freehub bodies cost nearly as much as the entire hub. I was not willing to risk the money. I would rather spend XTR hub money to build a new wheel with a non-Shimano hub. I happened to find an XT hub on amazon for $51.50. You have to use the FH-M788 (or the FH-M988 for XTR). The older versions are not interchageable with the M788 12x142.

    If you need to do the switch here are the tools required:
    Two 17 mm cone wrenches;
    Shimano cassette tool;
    a 15mm hex wrench;
    I also used a 30 inch cheater bar.

    Finding the allen wrench is the most difficult part. I ended up with a 15 mm hex bit 1/2 inch drive socket from Napa autoparts (they had to get it from their warehouse).
    • Sears: no
    • Home Depot: no
    • Lowes: no
    • Ace hardware: no
    • Advance Auto parts: no
    • McMaster Carr: Yes - time to ship
    • Fastenal: No
    • Amazon: sort of - Amazon as seller only found a full impact wrench hex socket bit set for $47.50. Or 3rd party sellers with 3-5 days to 4 week shipping lead times.
    • Old crank bolts: No, they are 14 mm. I think mid 80s campy crank bolts may have been 15mm, but I am not sure.
    • Old pedals with hex: considered, but do not have any pedals with more than 2 bolt flats. Would require destroying pedal too.



    There is a Shimano 15mm allen wrench - TL-FH15. I did not find it for sale online.

    Ah, you say, "I am far smarter and craftier than this crit_boy fellow. I will simply buy a bolt with a 15mm head and make my own tool".
    Nope. I thought of that too.
    -M8 is too small. M10 is too big. I am not sure whether M9 exists (or would have worked). None of my sources had any M9 anything.
    -I guess you could try to grind down a larger bolt head. But, you have to put big torque to loosen the FH body on both your old wheel and a new hub. Be careful - an inaccurately ground down tool may strip out the FH body.

    For my old wheel, I had a 30 inch cheater bar on the end of a 1/2 drive socket wrench and had to pull hard. Creaking spokes, etc.

    For the new hub, I ended up destroying the hub body. Once again 30 inch cheater bar, (broke strap wrench), channel locks on rotor mount (which chewed the rotor mount teeth up and bent the hub), and pull hard. I felt a bit bad about destroying the new hub, but there is zero chance of me building a wheel with it. So, no real loss. I am sure you could do this without damaging a new hub. I was in a hurry and did not take sufficient time or planning to avoid destroying the new hub.

    I did the whole swap in about 15 minutes. Not difficult to do. Also, not my first time working on hubs.

  2. #2
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    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body

    Did you try combining hex wrenches (10 and a 5, 3, 4, and an 8, etc.)?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bcparker21 View Post
    Did you try combining hex wrenches (10 and a 5, 3, 4, and an 8, etc.)?
    I considered it. I even mocked it up. But, I did not try to break the FH loose with my pile of allen wrenches in the hub. These are gorilla tight. The FH body tightens with pedaling.

    I have been around the block enough times to appreciate using the right tool for the job. Bucking up allen wrenches may work, but I did not want to risk shagging out my old FH body (that would require new wheel build) or the new XT hub (that would destroy my hope at riding for a couple weeks).

  4. #4
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    I have ridden about 300ish miles on the hub. The freehub body cracked.
    Like this ?



    I got a warranty FH-body from Shimano.

    (I thought it was a 14mm allenkey)
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  5. #5
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    Yep. Like that.

    It is very definitely a 15 mm hex. The tools listed in the first post are correct for the job. I was posting them to help out someone with the same problem. Different hubs may require different tools.

    The hub in the photo is not a FH-M788 with a 12x142 axle.

  6. #6
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    Cool, interesting about getting the freehub off the new hub.
    I bought a couple of cheap Shimano hubs from one of the ChainReaction sales for much less than the freehub was worth. Figured I was getting a freehub plus axles, cones and bearings. But, I've been wondering of I'll be able to get the freehub off. I was thinking of holding the hub with a pipe wrench.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slash5 View Post
    But, I've been wondering of I'll be able to get the freehub off. I was thinking of holding the hub with a pipe wrench.
    Pipe wrench would probably destroy the hub - at least aestheticly. I think the safest way would be to lace the hub into a rim. You do not have to tension the spokes. Just lacing it up is enough. I have removed a freehub that way before. It worked and no hub damage.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by crit_boy View Post
    Pipe wrench would probably destroy the hub - at least aestheticly. I think the safest way would be to lace the hub into a rim. You do not have to tension the spokes. Just lacing it up is enough. I have removed a freehub that way before. It worked and no hub damage.
    I've had success wrapping the unlaced shimano hub in an old tube and then placing it in a vise while I undid the freehub bolt. This worked well and left no marks on the hub. They weren't m788s that are mentioned here.

    But if you don't want to use the hub later then a pipe wrench would be fine. I've bought them donor parts as it's often cheaper than even buying new cones and balls, let alone the axle or freehub.

    Tim

  9. #9
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    Broke mine almost the exact same way, discovered it today. Thought I had a loose cassette but much worst. 1 week before my first race since I started riding in April.

  10. #10
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    Well, second freehub body broke. That one lasted about three weeks. Hopefully, LBS will warranty second one.

    I was climbing a hill, not super steep, no shifting. It made a loud pop. No more freewheeling. I would be surprised if I was making 200 watts when it popped.

    I have no disassembled the wheel yet. But, this failure is worse than the first one. I had to walk out.

    I am thinking this is a design defect - not manufacturing defect.

  11. #11
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    I called Shimano yesterday to see if they upgrade the XT to the XTR since there is a problem with the free hub cracking/breaking. NO!! Very quick and sternly said, I even offered to pay the difference and still a NO. Customer service solution was to buy the XTR and sell the warrantied XT replacement. So I went to my LBS and suggested the same "solution" and he called his dealer and he said no problem. Part ships from California today and should have it by next week. For now I'll use the replacement XT for now and swap out to the XTR. So see what your LBS can do for you.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by m5161968 View Post
    I called Shimano yesterday to see if they upgrade the XT to the XTR since there is a problem with the free hub cracking/breaking. NO!! Very quick and sternly said, I even offered to pay the difference and still a NO. Customer service solution was to buy the XTR and sell the warrantied XT replacement. So I went to my LBS and suggested the same "solution" and he called his dealer and he said no problem. Part ships from California today and should have it by next week. For now I'll use the replacement XT for now and swap out to the XTR. So see what your LBS can do for you.
    Did you buy the XTR freehub body or get it as a warranty through dealer?

    I was quoted $309 for an XTR freehub body. No way am I going to drop $300 on a shimano freehub. I would think the XTR Ti may hold up better. But, with the disappointment of the XT, I would not throw more good money at the problem. $309 is pretty close to a hadley hub or dinner out, beer, and a pizza from chris king.

    I asked my shop the same thing - see if Shimano would upgrade the warranty to XTR. I didn't hear back. But, I expect a "no". Shimano is too big to care that XT freehub bodies are failing. I would guess they will keep sending warranty parts every couple weeks.

    Problem is the shop is going to get sick of dealing with it. They are losing money in these exchanges. I remove the body from the wheel and drop it off. They have to spend the time/money to call shimano, receive the new part, and contact me to pick it up.

    The other problem is that I have no faith in the hub. On my ride yesterday, I kept thinking that I needed to back off - I didn't want to damage the hub.

  13. #13
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    Still no hub yet, maybe today. Now there's a hicup, apparently now just the freehub body is being sent instead of the upgrade. Story is that the new hub bodies supposed to be stronger now. Can't believe that since you've broken the replacement hub...so go figure. Looking to purchase some I9's or something, just have to convince myself to shell out that kinda money. Will be money well spent...I guess

  14. #14
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    Or a Hope Evo hub ?

  15. #15
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    Hub Replaced.....

    Got hub replaced with stock replacement, will ride with until middle of next month. Will order I9's end of next month though. Rode this past Sun at Mt. Creek, raced my 1st race ever and man what an experience. Hubs held up to pressures they were put through. So far so good.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by m5161968 View Post
    raced my 1st race ever and man what an experience. Hubs held up to pressures they were put through. So far so good.
    Congratulations on your first race. It gets to be addictive. And you are right about being hard on your stuff in a race. You have to do what you have to do.


    OP here - My third freehub body is on its way out. So, we are down to about a week and a half on them. I have babied this one. I have not shifted into the two biggest cassette cogs on this one - but still has not lasted.

    The second warranty is not back yet.

    I am trying to decide between new wheel builds either with a CK hub and SS freehub; or a hadley. Unfortunately, September is a bad month budget wise (car tax, professional dues, etc. - all due in the end of sept or beginning of oct). So, I will hopefully be able to have a LBS warranty a couple more freehubs.

  17. #17
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    When you can build up a strong wheel set, It is nice to know you have an almost bullet prof wheel set under you.

    I have had a good run out of my I9's & hope Pro 2's, But there are other good options.

    I tell people to only go for hubs that can run the XD free hub for XX1 & X01 just so they have that option with out another wheel build.
    Quote Originally Posted by crit_boy View Post
    Congratulations on your first race. It gets to be addictive. And you are right about being hard on your stuff in a race. You have to do what you have to do.


    OP here - My third freehub body is on its way out. So, we are down to about a week and a half on them. I have babied this one. I have not shifted into the two biggest cassette cogs on this one - but still has not lasted.

    The second warranty is not back yet.

    I am trying to decide between new wheel builds either with a CK hub and SS freehub; or a hadley. Unfortunately, September is a bad month budget wise (car tax, professional dues, etc. - all due in the end of sept or beginning of oct). So, I will hopefully be able to have a LBS warranty a couple more freehubs.
    I have a 6 Berth Motorhome that I rent out . It is based in Tauranga, New Zealand

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by muzzanic View Post
    I have had a good run out of my I9's & hope Pro 2's, But there are other good options.

    I tell people to only go for hubs that can run the XD free hub for XX1 & X01 just so they have that option with out another wheel build.
    The I9s do look like nice hubs. I ride with a few people who use hope pro 2s. They like them. However, there are reports of hope failures in the clyde forum. I don't want to have to replace the replacement.

    Good point about the ability to go to 11. I think 11 speed is going to be common in the next couple years.

  19. #19
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    DT 350. XX1 compatible. Cheap. As indestructible as anything out there.

  20. #20
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    Wow, that sucks. I have an M775 XT hub, (10mm axle, regular QR style) and recently broke my freehub. It was on a bike I hardly ever ride, so it probably has about 200 miles tops on it. I was cranking up a steep hill in a low gear when CRICK! instant geared fixie bike! Mine didn't break like yours did. It seems that the internal pawls broke and got wedged between the outer shell and the inner body. Good thing I was only like 3 miles from my front door. I just rode back fixie style. ABC.. always be cranking!

    I did the same thing.... I bought a cheap M775 hub off Amazon for like $55 and robbed it for the freehub body (and QR, since I had a crappy QR on that bike). If it happens again, I'll just replace the whole hub. Problem is, this hub is on my bikepacking bike. I hope to God it doesn't pop when I'm 30 miles out in the boonies with 15 pounds of camping gear strapped to my 28 pound hardtail bike. Now, I'm wondering the wisdom of going out of bounds with a hub that might not be up to the task. Maybe I'll swap on my DT Swiss 240s wheelset for serious stuff.

    It was pretty easy to change out. Just remove the axle/cup and cone bearings, and there is a big hollow allen bolt in there. It comes right out as long as the wheel is built. I forgot what size, but I had the correct one in my tool cabinet. Also. you only really need one cone wrench. You can use a regular wrench on the outer locknut. I always take apart shimano hubs from the non-drive side. The cups and cones are easier to adjust from that end rather than the freehub side.

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/z6ebxf5uJMxLkMJYlWYGldMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Gxeeck1EqoA/UeL6T6xLlKI/AAAAAAAAhmc/gxFZ5HNte7Q/s800/IMG_5100.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

    <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/Yjal_eJa8fWcKJZ9LfjldNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=e mbedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-kveogg9YWWU/UeL6WdpeCqI/AAAAAAAAhm8/erE-W0NOV7E/s800/IMG_5104.JPG" height="600" width="800" /></a>

  21. #21
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    Shimano is losing it!

    I can see how though since axle sizes are getting bigger but free hubs aren't. I'm sure 29" wheels combined with 36t cassettes aren't helping either.

  22. #22
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    For all the great components Shimano makes, and has made over the years, it is amazing to me that their freehubs have been very fragile since, well, forever.

    Just a blight on their reputation, especially when compared to items like their XT and XTR brakes, which the shop guys at my LBS refer to as "Avid Rebuild Kits - Complete".
    Whining is not a strategy.

  23. #23
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    I didn't see this thread and was commenting on cause and prevention of this failure here...

    What is the future of gear counts?

  24. #24
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    add another cracked freehub to the pile. just figured out that I've got the same issue m7888 12x142. hoping to find a replacement for this weekend. wish me luck.

  25. #25
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    after searching hi and low for a 15MM. I tried a 9/16 hex and was able to remove the freewheel body with that. hopefully shimano has figured it out and updated the body on the replacement I swapped out. my last one lasted only about 200 miles

  26. #26
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    XT hubs are crap. I broke 2 freehub bodies in one season. Those wheels are long gone.
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  27. #27
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    I broke a 10mm 135 wide XT freehub last week riding up a small climb. POP, then locked up. My brother and I replaced it with an older one off of a used Shimano hub. It'll probably work better than the crappy one I had. Less than 400 miles total on it.

    I have no problem getting rid of my Shimano stuff if this is the way it's gonna be...
    Ignorance is bliss until they take your bliss away...

  28. #28
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    this is the second one that has gone on me...

    i replaced this freehub about 4 weeks and has approximately 100 miles on it.

    i can't believe this is happening... grr.

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  29. #29
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    What cassette are you guys using?

    I know for hope hubs they only recommend XT or better because the cassette-freehub has more contact area to spread the forces.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    What cassette are you guys using?

    I know for hope hubs they only recommend XT or better because the cassette-freehub has more contact area to spread the forces.
    My new 788 hub exploded internally (imploded?) with a mere 58 miles of riding. Spoke with Shimano warranty department this week and they say they are out of stock. Expecting new freehub bodies in about two weeks. Pffff!

    My Hadley hub should be here tomorrow so I can start lacing up my new Derby rims! Can't wait. Was hoping to get more than 60 mi out of a set of wheels.... Maybe Shimano is cooking up an improved freehub body?

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by krashmaster81 View Post
    Maybe Shimano is cooking up an improved freehub body?
    I think the broken freehub is symptom, the problem being loss of locknut preload from thermal expansion.

  32. #32
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    i spoke to shimano customer service about a week ago. i let him know my concern that this was the second 788 freehub body that had failed within a short amount of use. shimano's reply was that they were aware folks were having issues and that they 'updated' the free hub body... however the new freehubs were currently out of stock and to beware of online retailers because they would likely be stocking the older version of the freehub.

    not wanting to wait for restocking or deal with the potential of another failure I order a hope hub. meanwhile i have not ridden my bike in like 10 days.

  33. #33
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    Here's my solution...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-image.jpg  


  34. #34
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    Upset 3th freehub in 1 year

    I broke my 3th freehub in 1 year.
    I use Shimano XT cassettes, but I'n sure that's not the problem.
    This freehubs can't stand the momentum we put on them with 24-36 gearing.
    That sucks.
    I ordered a DT240s CL, which is aproximatly the same size.
    That way I can re-use my inly 1 week old spokes.
    I lace my wheels myself, only take a little time.

    Luckely I was able to ride home every time my freehub broke...
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by thasingletrackmastah View Post
    Like this ?



    I got a warranty FH-body from Shimano.

    (I thought it was a 14mm allenkey)
    I just broke my m788 12x142 freehub. Could you tell me if the warranty one come ready to screw on? The reason I ask is because there were a bunch of loose ball bearings and I'm wondering if I have to pack those back in my self or if the new hub is ready to go. Thanks

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by carabao View Post
    I just broke my m788 12x142 freehub. Could you tell me if the warranty one come ready to screw on? The reason I ask is because there were a bunch of loose ball bearings and I'm wondering if I have to pack those back in my self or if the new hub is ready to go. Thanks
    Shimano sends your LBS a new freehub body. The new FH includes the part that supports the cassette and the racketing threaded part that attaches it into the hub. The bottom photo is what you get (but for a 12x142 hub).

    It is "ready to screw on" after you remove the cassette, non-drive side locknut and cone, axle, free bearings on both sides of the axle, and then remove the old FH.

    If you don't have the tools (two 17 mm cone wrenches, Shimano cassette tool, and a 15mm hex wrench, grease to repack hub bearings) or don't want to buy all that stuff, just have your LBS switch it. Should be a 15 minute job.

    Back to the bearing issue:

    There are two different size free ball bearings in your rear hub - the larger ones (3/16th?) are between the hub races and the axle cones; the really small ones (3/32nds?) are from the freehub body.

    If you are talking about the really small bearings, they are debris from the broken freehub - you do not re-use them. If you are talking about the larger ones that are between the hub and axle, you have to re-use those.

    BTW - the photos you copied in your reply is not a 12x142 hub. Your 12x142 looks a bit different.

  37. #37
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    Well I now join the broke another free hub club, broke mine today...not even 80 miles on and I'm being generous. Christmas gift..i9's and new wheel..done.

  38. #38
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    I spoke with them on the phone and they said the new freehubs undergo a different heat treating process. Hopefully this solves the problem because other than the total failure of the hub shell, I think they're decent. They have good engagement and work when they're not failing. haha. I would get another warranty freehub and see if the new batch are better.

    BTW, I haven't received said hubs via warranty yet. I'll report back if it fails.
    Quote Originally Posted by m5161968 View Post
    Well I now join the broke another free hub club, broke mine today...not even 80 miles on and I'm being generous. Christmas gift..i9's and new wheel..done.

  39. #39
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    According to Shimano, the new freehub body uses a different metal and heat treating process. Also, the new freehubs have a ring around the body about 5mm above the base of the body, or where it threads into the hub. At least you'll be able to know wether or not you indeed get the newer version. Has anyone received this newer version, and more importantly, how has it held up? Thanks

  40. #40
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    shimano told me the same thing - however they were on backorder at the time which meant more time off the bike. in the interest of getting back on my bike sooner and not having to test the new strength of the update freehub and another failure purchased another brand.

    *also beware that that most online retailers are stocking the older faulty version. I made the mistake of buying a complete replacement hub which also failed.

  41. #41
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    To minimize down time I ordered a freehub body from Universal cycles and it should arrive Friday. I figure if it's the updated version I can use it now and just return the one Shimano is sending me via warranty, or keep as a spare.


    Quote Originally Posted by tarp43 View Post
    shimano told me the same thing - however they were on backorder at the time which meant more time off the bike. in the interest of getting back on my bike sooner and not having to test the new strength of the update freehub and another failure purchased another brand.

    *also beware that that most online retailers are stocking the older faulty version. I made the mistake of buying a complete replacement hub which also failed.

  42. #42
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    and to think i was considering these hub for my wheelset im saving for (flow ex). i have slx m529s on cheapish wheelset i have now on my 29er. they have put up with everything my 270lb butt has thrown at them all year no issues ( but i did remove a bearing spacer inside freehub body to get rid of excess play in bearings about mid season when I did clean/regrease on my hubs). Want more engagement otherwise id lace up to s seat of Flows, skills and where i ride now I see the need for better engagement. Guess Im going to be saving longer for better hubs.

  43. #43
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    My zee freehub (same as the 788) was noisy last ride so I tried to relube it using the morningstar freehub buddy and was surprised when fluid came out between the cassette splines. I am debating on replacing the freehub body or going Hadley or hope. I only have 200miles on the hub but I am also a 280lb+ rider

  44. #44
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    Does anyone have a side by side comparisons of the old the old free hub and the new updated one? LBS says very different look with an obvious change and they sound different.

  45. #45
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    Re: Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body

    I bought mine from universal and they had to order it. It looked the same to me and I haven't had a chance to get a ride in yet. If this fails I will probably relace with a hadley or king. The rim is a salsa gordo 29 (can't get them anymore).

    Sent from my GT-P5210 using Tapatalk 2

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    I'm with you Andrew, this is my 2nd time under warranty replacement. Shop mechanic says that this time there is a definite difference between the last one and has a different sound. Unfortunately I don't have the time to do work myself at the time so that I can see for myself.

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    So, any news about the durability?
    Would be great to hear that the new freehubs are not disintegrating themselves.

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by fl1p View Post
    So, any news about the durability?
    Would be great to hear that the new freehubs are not disintegrating themselves.
    So far so good on the new freehub.

  49. #49
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    I've only 2 rides on the "new" hub, not counting the road ride last week. Much quieter hub though, shifting seems to be fine. Purposely shifting on a few small hills, no issues to write about at this time.

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    Sounds good, but I'm still not completely convinced.
    Has anybody found/made pictures of the new Freehub?

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    OP here again - I have been on freehub body #4 for a couple dozen (or more) mountain bike rides. It is still holding up.

    I don't have a photo of the new vs old. But, I do not recall a readily apparent visual difference between the two.

  52. #52
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    Good to hear. If Shimano does get their act together on these hubs, it would be a decent budget hub with good engagement. As I posted earlier, I broke my original freehub. I replaced it by buying another hub and transplanting the freehub body, but honestly I took that wheelset off my bike and haven't ridden it much.

    I'm wondering if this shouldn't be a recall kind of situation. Breaking a freehub and having it lock up can easily cause a nasty crash. It seems that it has an extremely high failure rate.

  53. #53
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    Hey Guys, did this failure include the 10mm x 135mm reqular QR XT M756 ?
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  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Burt4x4 View Post
    Hey Guys, did this failure include the 10mm x 135mm reqular QR XT M756 ?
    No, that uses the older bulletproof, but slow 18 (or 16?) point of engagement freehub. That hub is a solid hub.... you won't break it, but it's not particularly desirable because of weight and slow engagement.

    The hub that breaks is the later hub with the 36 POE hub with the bigger alloy axle.

  55. #55
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    Thanks !!
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    I just had mine assplode as well. M788 12x142 built in a 650B Stan's Flow EX. No crashes and I'm riding 2.35 Kendas on a 6" travel bike. Might cross-post this into the Components thread...not just a 29er issue!

    Contacted the LBS who built my wheels and they said there was definitely a recall addressing this -- but the last time they saw this was last year. A cursory search of Shimano's website yielded nothing, nor did a google search on "Shimano XT recall". In any case -- the LBS had success addressing this previously.

    My symptoms: started with a little grindies in the freehub while I was lubing the chain, but spinning the drivetrain forward resolved it, and everything was smooth. Went riding last weekend and 2/3 into the ride, noticed my freewheel wasn't working, like riding a fixie. Thought something was caught in the drivetrain, so got off, spun backward, and with a little chain tension in reverse, it let go and spun normally. Got back on and finished the ride, including a screaming downhill over some rough stuff, but no massive drops or anything. Cassette seemed loose after the ride so took it in. I was blown away when they showed me what had happened.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stabone33 View Post
    I just had mine assplode as well. M788 12x142 built in a 650B Stan's Flow EX. No crashes and I'm riding 2.35 Kendas on a 6" travel bike. Might cross-post this into the Components thread...not just a 29er issue!

    Contacted the LBS who built my wheels and they said there was definitely a recall addressing this -- but the last time they saw this was last year. A cursory search of Shimano's website yielded nothing, nor did a google search on "Shimano XT recall". In any case -- the LBS had success addressing this previously.

    My symptoms: started with a little grindies in the freehub while I was lubing the chain, but spinning the drivetrain forward resolved it, and everything was smooth. Went riding last weekend and 2/3 into the ride, noticed my freewheel wasn't working, like riding a fixie. Thought something was caught in the drivetrain, so got off, spun backward, and with a little chain tension in reverse, it let go and spun normally. Got back on and finished the ride, including a screaming downhill over some rough stuff, but no massive drops or anything. Cassette seemed loose after the ride so took it in. I was blown away when they showed me what had happened.
    Word for word (almost) what happened to me on my Rocky Mountain Instinct with xt hubs on stans arch ex rims. 8 months of riding the bike like it was designed to be ridden.

  58. #58
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    Any experiences with the XTR M988 freehub body? Does the titanium last longer? Went through four FHBs on my old XT-hubs, wondering if I should take the risk on XTR on the new wheelset.

  59. #59
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    I have a new revised XT hub for sale. I bought two when my first one exploded and thankfully haven't needed the second one. PM me if you're interested. I paid $49 from here: Universal Cycles -- Shimano MTB Freehub Bodies

    XT M788 12x142

    I'm asking $30 plus shipping. Thanks

  60. #60
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    Just broke my rear hub on my MT66 wheelset. It lasted no more than 400km.
    The MT66 is of the SLX groupset which was revised in 2013, so can anyone tell if there are know issues like for XT hubs?
    My LBS is working on having it serviced.

  61. #61
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    Guys, my M788 XT Freehub has also broken. And now I have a huge problem. look at this picture: the "Hub Axle Unit" labelled #2 is supposed to be 1 piece, but I could screw off the nut. And now I cannot unscrew the axle, because there is no way to put any torque onto the axle! Any suggestion what to do next? I have bought a replacement hub, but I cannot replace anything unless i can get the axle out of the hub...

  62. #62
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    Can't you just undo the left side with a hex key in the right?

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by fuzzyBuzz View Post
    Just broke my rear hub on my MT66 wheelset. It lasted no more than 400km.
    The MT66 is of the SLX groupset which was revised in 2013, so can anyone tell if there are know issues like for XT hubs?
    My LBS is working on having it serviced.
    The drive side cone coming unlocked, winding up and expanding the bearings into the free hub is a known issue. The axle, drive side cone and locknut are supposed to be a unit and not possible to disassemble and many seem to think it's a free hub problem.

  64. #64
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    well, the thing is, the locknuts came off at both sides. I know that this is not supposed to happen, but the drive-side nut came off as well, revealing a thread (which shouldn't theoretically be there). As a result, the axle has no place to exert torque. I tried for an hour, but I cannot extract the axle. I think I am going to have to replace the entire wheel (sigh)...

  65. #65
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    There should be a hex in the drive side so you can use a key to hold it and remove the left cone.
    I got away with replacing the drive side balls and using green Loctite on the drive side cone and locknut.

  66. #66
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    On the non-drive side there is place for a 17mm wrench. On the drive side, however, the axle (without locknut) seems perfectly round. Hence the entire axle rotates with the non-drive side. I think that the crucial issue is that the locknut came off on the drive side - which is not foreseen in the Shimano documents.

  67. #67
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    Surely you're missing there's a hex inside the axle for normal cone adjustment.

  68. #68
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    Another broken M788 12 x 142. Fu.. Less 2000 km.

    How to remove freehub body? Anyone having a link to instructions? video prefered!

    Thank

  69. #69
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    Don't need a video - 10mm Allen wrench.

    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-img_6762.jpg

    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-img_6764.jpg
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  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    Don't need a video - 10mm Allen wrench.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Do the same apply for the 12 mm axle type ?

  71. #71
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    ^^^ You're right...That wouldn't be possible would it? ^^^
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    It's probably 14mm like a 785, I used a bolt with a 14mm head with a couple of nuts locked on it to drive it.

  73. #73
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    Removal technique should be the same though.
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  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lars K. P. View Post
    Do the same apply for the 12 mm axle type ?
    Quote Originally Posted by gumby. View Post
    It's probably 14mm like a 785, I used a bolt with a 14mm head with a couple of nuts locked on it to drive it.
    Actually you need a 15-mm key for the 142x12. It's mentioned on the first page of the thread. I also know this because it's in the tech documents and guess what...mine broke as well, recently! There are replacements on Amazon, but I have no idea if these are the new versions. Place the long portion of the 15-mm key in a vise and use the wheel/tire to turn counter-clockwise. It will be tight as hell, so it will take some massive effort.

    Something didn't feel right about the drivetrain and it seemed like the cassette was too wobbly. I cleaned my freehub and cassette and noticed what looked like a crack. Stuck my fingernail in it and a huge chunk of the freehub body fell off.

    I called Shimano today and they said there was an issue with this on the early freehubs for the M788. They will warranty it, but it's easier to do it through your bike shop if possible. I bought a cheap set of Mavic Crossrides as a backup wheel set so I can still ride while a I wait for this to get solved.

    You can call them at:
    Shimano American Corp.
    (800) 423-2420

    Last edited by Jman0000; 04-14-2015 at 10:54 AM.

  75. #75
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    Not this will help anyone out there. But I just broke freehub #3 inside of the same year, and this was a new updated version. I can't tell the difference between the two versions other than being told it was made of a different steel.
    With XT suppose to be the working mans group it is a a let down that shimano has not fix this problem yet. These hubs have been out there for a good while at this point.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by stinkyto View Post
    Not this will help anyone out there. But I just broke freehub #3 inside of the same year, and this was a new updated version. I can't tell the difference between the two versions other than being told it was made of a different steel.
    With XT suppose to be the working mans group it is a a let down that shimano has not fix this problem yet. These hubs have been out there for a good while at this point.
    Oh no, this does not bode well. Might have to jump ship on this freehub and get something like the DT Swiss 350...

  77. #77
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    I want your NON-Drive cones and races!

    Finding this problem is a shock. I have one season of riding on a 2014 788 and the freehub has held up fine even with 1x conversion to XT cassette (40T one up cog).

    However, I found the Non-drive site race and cone are toast! one Season. Saw the same happen with my girlfriend's olded 785 front hub and bought a new one for $35 shipped, hammered out the old races and pressed in the new and all new internals and Viola! But I am loath to spend $50 just for non-drive cone and race. If anyone has a toasted hub out there with a good none-drive race and cone please hit me up.

  78. #78
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    ^^^ Out of curiosity, what do you mean "toast"?

    Was this a result of improper lubrication? My direction here is to question if it came properly lubricated as new. I have found several new Shimano products (out of the box) with inadequate lubrication.

    Now, I inspect all new component bearings fresh out of the box for proper lubrication.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    ^^^ Out of curiosity, what do you mean "toast"?

    Was this a result of improper lubrication? My direction here is to question if it came properly lubricated as new. I have found several new Shimano products (out of the box) with inadequate lubrication.

    Now, I inspect all new component bearings fresh out of the box for proper lubrication.
    Yeah probably inadequate lube/adjustment off the shelf, it's hard to say at this point. Drive side is good, but ND was rust coloured minimal grease and both the race and cones show corrosion and pitting. I don't pressure wash my bike or anything and live in a dry climate. So who knows, i don't really care why it happened at this point. I'll just put new parts in, LOTS of grease and check mid season from now on. Normally I'd just do a once a year overall bearing check.

    The lower bearing on the headset is also pretty bad, but I popped it apart and will put new bearings in it and put it back together and it should still provide good functionality. Just goes to show, you need more maintenance than you think. This bike really does have low miles, I'd guess no more than 1000 miles, but maybe I underestimate my own riding.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jman0000 View Post
    Actually you need a 15-mm key for the 142x12. It's mentioned on the first page of the thread. I also know this because it's in the tech documents and guess what...mine broke as well, recently! There are replacements on Amazon, but I have no idea if these are the new versions. Place the long portion of the 15-mm key in a vise and use the wheel/tire to turn counter-clockwise. It will be tight as hell, so it will take some massive effort.
    Right 15mm and 150Nm!!! That techdoc isn't listed for some reason, just the EV but I found it here...
    http://www.shimano.com/media/techdoc...9830746321.pdf
    I'm on my second 785 which is rumbly after only 300 or so miles, I pulled it off to lube and the seal ominously fell out. It's still rumbling after lubing it so I'll have a closer inspection for cracks.
    The first outlived the 2 year warranty so I figured that was OK with the miles I'd put on it.
    I see there are 2 788 freehubs, a QR version 788 sharing Y3CZ98040 with 770 775 and 785 and Y3TH98050 for the thru axle 788.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by gumby. View Post
    I'm on my second 785 which is rumbly after only 300 or so miles, I pulled it off to lube and the seal ominously fell out. It's still rumbling after lubing it so I'll have a closer inspection for cracks.

    How did you lube it and with what lubricant?
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  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    How did you lube it and with what lubricant?
    The inner seal feel out so I held it inside up and pooled muc-off wet chain lube (which I don't like for chains) on the inner race.

  83. #83
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    Freehub Lubin'

    This is the real trick to getting that freehub properly lubed

    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-img_6766.jpg
    Find one of these Morningstar Freehub lube adapters (obsolete)


    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-img_6767.jpg
    Attach lube adapter to freehub


    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-img_6769.jpg
    Inject lubricant of choice. I prefer Lectric Freehub Lube, but there are several freehub lubricants available. Dumonde Tech Freehub grease is another good one I like.


    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-img_6770.jpg
    Force old grease out and fresh grease in. Clean and install.

    DO NOT use conventional grease. It's way too thick. Some use outboard drive lubricant.
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  84. #84
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    where can we get this tools? can you point me towards 1... thanks

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by thasingletrackmastah View Post
    I broke my 3th freehub in 1 year.
    I use Shimano XT cassettes, but I'n sure that's not the problem.
    This freehubs can't stand the momentum we put on them with 24-36 gearing.
    That sucks.
    I ordered a DT240s CL, which is aproximatly the same size.
    That way I can re-use my inly 1 week old spokes.
    I lace my wheels myself, only take a little time.

    Luckely I was able to ride home every time my freehub broke...
    36? Is this freehub designed for a 36?

  86. #86
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    36 is no problem and pretty standard.
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  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by saddle pimp View Post
    where can we get this tools? can you point me towards 1... thanks
    Good luck in finding one of these. Morningstar Tools is no longer and most likely, you would have to score a used one from someone. Wonderful tool that easily allows you to lubricant in just a few minutes. When it's cooler weather, I use a thinner lubricant.
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  88. #88
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    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body

    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    36 is no problem and pretty standard.
    Shimano recommends a special hub only for the 12x36 9 speed cassette.
    Last edited by MikeDee; 04-26-2015 at 09:09 AM. Reason: edit

  89. #89
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    Anyone know what the most recent part number is? Y3TS98070 is what shimano has listed for Zee but it appears that 98060 is also compatible. I have 142 x 12 Zee hub.
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  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by MikeDee View Post
    Shimano recommends a special hub only for the 12x36 9 speed cassette.
    They specify CS-771-10 for 785 & 788 hubs which comes in 11-36

  91. #91
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    Well, I've just blown up my third one for this year - they're SLX, but it's the same shoddy freehub mettalurgy coupled with what might be escaping bearings that are getting themselves loose and installing themselves under the hub pawls.

    Trying to reinstall mine in order to ride my triumphant geared fixie the other 8 miles back home (sketchy beyond all reason, I've never been more terrified to power through rock gardens, probably should have walked), I noticed that one of the bearings did manage to get itself up under the freehub body and into the pawl mechanism, which I think might be the root cause for the final catastrophic failure, and it probably just takes the small cracks caused by metallurgical failure to let them escape to there.

  92. #92
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    Broken pawls in Shimano XT FH-M770 Hub

    I have a customer who broke an XT freehub body on FH-T780 rear hub. I replaced the body which started making a clicking/grinding sound soon after. He now ie rolling on White Industries! I have the FH-M770 hub on my touring bike and every once in a while, when strting out there would be a little pop in the drivetrain. Didn;t really worry about it but when I was about 10 miles from home the other day I heard a pop and the pedals and freewheel started spinning- without turning the wheel! Got it home, made the tool out of a 13/16 socket for taking the freehub body apart. The pawls have a very thin little tab on the bottom which slips under a snap ring which encircles the freehub body. This snap ring puts pressure on the little tab which causes pawl to spring up and engage in the spline in the body. Every one of the little tabs on my hub is broken, and I'm pretty sure this must have been the popping sound I was hearing. Getting ready to lace my new white Industries hub now!
    Shimano XT FH-M788 12x142 rear hub - broken freehub body-p8103893.jpg

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    This is STILL an issue?! How!? Were the ti freehubs effected?

    https://www.rosebikes.com/article/sh...hub/aid:515947

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