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  1. #1
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Rockshox SID XX Tuning

    I recently installed a Rockshox SID XX w/15mm through axle on my Lenz Leviathan 3.0 29er. I adjusted the damping to the factory recommended pressure for my weight (175lbs) and the rebound to the center setting. These overall settings seem to work fine for normal XC and single drops. However, there are lots of rocky, baby-head sections in the southern Arizona trails I ride. On these sections, my arms and hands get jarred so intensely they go numb after only a few minutes of downhill. I am not sure if my damping setting is too stiff or the rebound is too fast.

    I was never very good at multi variable problems in school so I thought I would ask the smart folks:-)

  2. #2
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    Go lower on spring pressure first and make sure you have the xloc open. The factory charts are typical way too high. I'm close to your weight and run right at 90psi for 100mm travel.

  3. #3
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    Ditto ktm's comments. I have a SID RLT and I am running 25-30 psi lower then the guide. Someone else commented to set air based off sag. Question on sag, what is everyone running,15% ok?
    If the path ahead looks dangerous ------- it probably is!

  4. #4
    Sim
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    My Sid needed to have the pushloc bled out of the box. It took me a few rides and a lot of trying to tune the fork before I realized something was wrong. Bleed the air off, if it doesn't feel smooth, that may be the problem.

  5. #5
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    I never mess with trying to measure sag on forks. Good point on the xloc bleed. If there is air in the line the valve will not fully open and the damper will be partially or fully "locked".

  6. #6
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    I dropped the pressure down to 90psi for both the + & - settings and it made a big difference in the feel and handling.

    Sim;
    How could you tell the xloc needed to be bled? I have been wondering if something may be wrong with mine. Whether the xloc is pushed in or extended the forks action is almost identical.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rmwellbo View Post
    How could you tell the xloc needed to be bled? I have been wondering if something may be wrong with mine. Whether the xloc is pushed in or extended the forks action is almost identical.
    Two things could be happening here. 1. the xloc needs to be bled, or 2. you don't have enough fluid in the damper. There are some caveats to option 2, but we'll keep it simple for now.

    There should be a very noticeable difference between in and out even with the barrel set full soft. Try turning the barrel to full hard (+) and see if there is any change? My guess is not, which leads us back to option 1 or 2.

    The default postion for the xloc is locked. This is one of the disadvantages because if you break the hose, the fork is locked. I've broken the hose twice now, luckily never in a race.

  8. #8
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    adjusting pressure

    I too have found that for a heavier rider like myself, adjusting to factory recommendations or based on sag makes for a bad ride. I just keep moving it around till it feels right.

  9. #9
    Sim
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    rmwellbo, my fork felt the same as you are describing. ktm520 advice is good, if it doesn't change the bleed is inexpensive, $20-$25. I didn't know for sure the xloc needed to be bled, but I knew something was wrong. After an internet search, that is what I came up with as the mostly likely problem.

    Sim;
    How could you tell the xloc needed to be bled? I have been wondering if something may be wrong with mine. Whether the xloc is pushed in or extended the forks action is almost identical.

  10. #10
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    Thanks Sim. I will have my LBS do the bleed and then let you know if it worked.

  11. #11
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    Before you pay them to bleed it, have them pull out the damper, verify the valve is opening/closing, and check the oil height. I don't remember the oil height numbers but it basically needs to be high enough that the bottom 5mm of the damper is submerged. Measure length of damper, measure oil height, and compare. If you have a wrench big enough to fit the hex on the damper (right upper leg), you can do this yourself.

  12. #12
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    same here, Xloc needed bleeding.

  13. #13
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    Out of the box my fork is rigid with the Xloc in or out.

    Where did you find the bleed instructions for the Xloc. I've done brakes before so guessing it is not that hard.

  14. #14
    Sim
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    You could call Rockshox/SRAM tech support. I am sure they could help you. The shop that bled mine used a bleed kit from Avid for ther brakes. It can't be contaminated with hydraulic fluid. I was told the mineral oil and hydraulic fluid don't play well together.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sim View Post
    You could call Rockshox/SRAM tech support.
    Good luck with that . . .

    Quote Originally Posted by riding29 View Post
    Where did you find the bleed instructions for the Xloc. I've done brakes before so guessing it is not that hard.
    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/iY...cal-manual.pdf
    page 72

  16. #16
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    My SID XX was also in need of a bleed out of the box. There's an easy way to check whether it does.

    I don't think that the problem is that there is air in the line, but that there is not enough fluid in the system.

    The easy way to check is to pop the Xloc button out, and then turn the Gate adjuster all the way in and out. If the button itself moves in and out while you do this, there is not enough fluid in the system. If you can pull the button out a little more by hand when it's popped out, and the Gate adjuster is screwed out (towards the +), it doesn't have enough fluid.

    Consequently, the compression damper is never fully unlocked when you push the button in. It's almost there, so it makes the fork bad at being plush.

    Bleeding is pretty easy, but the important thing is that the Gate adjusted be screwed fully out while it's done. The button is also to be extended when it's finished, but during the procedure you should press it in and out a few times to remove possible bubbles.

    Having the Gate adjusted fully screwed out puts the system at maximum volume. This allows both the Gate adjustment to work properly, and the compression damper to be fully open when the button is pushed in.

    Bleeding it is just like Avid brakes, except you don't have to worry about pad clearances. Just rotate the Xloc so that the bleed port is at the top, screw in the syringes with some 5WT fluid, and flush the system to let out all air. Before you unscrew the syringes, make sure the Gate adjuster is fully out and the button is out. When you unscrew the syringes, you'll have to have them at slight positive pressure to make sure no air makes it in. You will spill a little oil. Luckily it's not DOT fluid and won't eat anything.

    Then go enjoy how much better your fork feels. I personally run mine with the Gate adjuster all the way in. I'm fairly light so it's enough of a pedal platform for my singlespeeding, and it absorbs bumps well when locked out.

    If I hit drops that tend to bottom out the fork at my usual spring setting, I'll lock it out and it then takes the hits well.

    This fork has sweet dampers!

  17. #17
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    I just found this thread a year later. I think low fluid has been my issue from the start and I put to much air in the upper and neg air. If I lock it out (button extended) and turn the flood gate adjustment the button retracts as I turn it. So I believe this tells me the fluid is low. I ordered some 5wt rockshox suspension fluid and will bleed them when I get it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kanik View Post
    My SID XX was also in need of a bleed out of the box. There's an easy way to check whether it does.

    I don't think that the problem is that there is air in the line, but that there is not enough fluid in the system.

    The easy way to check is to pop the Xloc button out, and then turn the Gate adjuster all the way in and out. If the button itself moves in and out while you do this, there is not enough fluid in the system. If you can pull the button out a little more by hand when it's popped out, and the Gate adjuster is screwed out (towards the +), it doesn't have enough fluid.

    Consequently, the compression damper is never fully unlocked when you push the button in. It's almost there, so it makes the fork bad at being plush.

    Bleeding is pretty easy, but the important thing is that the Gate adjusted be screwed fully out while it's done. The button is also to be extended when it's finished, but during the procedure you should press it in and out a few times to remove possible bubbles.

    Having the Gate adjusted fully screwed out puts the system at maximum volume. This allows both the Gate adjustment to work properly, and the compression damper to be fully open when the button is pushed in.

    Bleeding it is just like Avid brakes, except you don't have to worry about pad clearances. Just rotate the Xloc so that the bleed port is at the top, screw in the syringes with some 5WT fluid, and flush the system to let out all air. Before you unscrew the syringes, make sure the Gate adjuster is fully out and the button is out. When you unscrew the syringes, you'll have to have them at slight positive pressure to make sure no air makes it in. You will spill a little oil. Luckily it's not DOT fluid and won't eat anything.

    Then go enjoy how much better your fork feels. I personally run mine with the Gate adjuster all the way in. I'm fairly light so it's enough of a pedal platform for my singlespeeding, and it absorbs bumps well when locked out.

    If I hit drops that tend to bottom out the fork at my usual spring setting, I'll lock it out and it then takes the hits well.

    This fork has sweet dampers!
    I know this is an old thread but it came up on a search I was doing.

    I've got the 2013 SID XX and so far I love it, but it's also my first real shock so I have no idea how to tune it. I understand the rebound and spring pressure, but what is the gate on the remote for? I really couldn't find any good tuning guides on this fork.

  19. #19
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    Here's some tuning info starting at post #70. This doesn't relate to the lockout. It applies to small bump compliance.
    Solo Air vs Dual Air

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by hidperf View Post
    I know this is an old thread but it came up on a search I was doing.

    I've got the 2013 SID XX and so far I love it, but it's also my first real shock so I have no idea how to tune it. I understand the rebound and spring pressure, but what is the gate on the remote for? I really couldn't find any good tuning guides on this fork.
    That would have the X-loc correct? I had a 2012... the gate/dial on the remote is just to control how much give there is when you have it locked out. So if you want it super firm when locked out you turn it one way and the other would be to have there still be a little give when locked out. You will have to mess around with it... with lockout on - turn it all the way one way and push on the fork, then turn all the way the other way and push again. You should see/feel a difference.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by duggus View Post
    That would have the X-loc correct? I had a 2012... the gate/dial on the remote is just to control how much give there is when you have it locked out. So if you want it super firm when locked out you turn it one way and the other would be to have there still be a little give when locked out. You will have to mess around with it... with lockout on - turn it all the way one way and push on the fork, then turn all the way the other way and push again. You should see/feel a difference.
    That makes sense. I'll do some tuning this weekend and see what I find.

    Thanks!

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