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  1. #1
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    RockShox Reba SL -- lockout doesn't really lock out (n00b question)

    This is the stock shock on my Fuji Tahoe 29er SL. I've been following the guidelines on the fork (100 psi in the top chamber, 100 psi in the bottom chamber).

    When I use the poploc to lock it out, I still get about 2? inches of travel (though it doesn't compress nearly as easily).

    On my other bike, I have a RockShox Recon Silver single air shock that definitely locks out when I choose to use that. Do I need to adjust something on the SL?

    Thanks,
    Bob

  2. #2
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    On my 2011 Reba RLT there is a FloodGate knob on top of the compression adjustment, that controls the firmness of the lockout. It allows you to ride with the fork on locked out position, but still allow it to soak some of the bigger bumps. When the gate and the compression adjustments are turned fully clockwise, the fork is fully locked.

    But then again, since you have the PopLoc, you might not have this adjustment. On another bike I have 2013 Reba RL with PushLoc, and the firmness of the lockout cannot be tuned. So there is a small amount movement allowed when locked out.

  3. #3
    ballbuster
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    This:

    Quote Originally Posted by ssio View Post
    On my 2011 Reba RLT there is a FloodGate knob on top of the compression adjustment, that controls the firmness of the lockout. It allows you to ride with the fork on locked out position, but still allow it to soak some of the bigger bumps. When the gate and the compression adjustments are turned fully clockwise, the fork is fully locked.

    But then again, since you have the PopLoc, you might not have this adjustment. On another bike I have 2013 Reba RL with PushLoc, and the firmness of the lockout cannot be tuned. So there is a small amount movement allowed when locked out.
    Try cranking your floodgate all the way clockwise. If you don't have a floodgate knob, you remove the little gold cap on the top of the right fork, pull tte red knob out of the bottom of the right fork let (it's an Allen wrench on the end of that red knob) and use it to adjust the thing inside the top of the leg. Or, I think it's a 2.5 or 3mm Allen head inside there. It's plastic in there, so don't turn it hard.

    The Floodgate setting is basically how big a bump it takes to knock the lockout open and let the fork open up and move. I keep mine all the way firm and use it as a hard lockout. I like my fork soft unless I'm hammering out of the saddle. Then, I lock it out with the Poploc lever.

    It's always going to move a tiny bit, but two inches tells me that you don't have it set very firm... Or, your fork damper oil leaked out and is low.

  4. #4
    MTB B'dos
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    No matter what you do, if you have a higher end RS fork it WILL NOT ever fully lockout, there will always be movement and you determine the amount by how you set the fork pressures etc.- your Recon doesn't use the MC damper, it just has a on/off lockout, so if left on and you take a hit, more chance of damaging the system. As said above, there is a threshold you can adjust, but that only effects how big of a hit it takes to induce full use of the forks travel, what really controls how the fork moves when the MC floodgate is engaged is your air pressures and right now running them even your fork will have alot of motion.

    Try setting the NEG pressure 10-20PSI or more lower than the POS pressure - in case you didn't know, the NEG pressure is what determins just how easily your fork moves into it's travel and if you set the POS/NEG pressures equal it moves into it very easily=very good small bump compliance.

    Another thing to check is your oil level, if that is too low the MC Damper will not work properly. Not sure if the measurement has changed, but it used to be 110ml +/- 5ml or 5" down from top of MC unit - check the RS web site for the service PDF and it'll have in all the info you need on how to check the oil level and the correct amount to use.
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  5. #5
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    Also on that fork it is a hydrualic lockout, it will always have some movement or else it will blow the internals out.

    Now on the cheap fork on my wifes Marlin it locks out fully, but you have to come to a complete stop to do it.

  6. #6
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    Looks like I do have the floodgate adjustment. I popped the cap off and can see there's an allen head adjuster in there. Thanks a lot for the help!

    Bob
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RockShox Reba SL -- lockout doesn't really lock out (n00b question)-floodgate.jpg  


  7. #7
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    Bottom of the right leg, the Rebound adjustment knob pulls out and has the right allen key. Also make sure that the remote is setup properly and that it's actually turning the knob all the way, if not then you're not getting the max compression dampening that available and that would also easily explain why you're getting so much travel - normal travel for the MC in the "locked" position is about 3/4".

    The beauty of the MC damper over the basic plain Jane lockout on your other fork is, that you can incrementally increase the dampening throughout it's range to wherever your heart desires, instead of just on or off (which also is what the pop-lock does and why I hate it, looses you that great feature), so if you were going down a really steep hill you could dial the dampening up to help combat brake dive, little less for general riding, etc, etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by bobonker View Post
    Looks like I do have the floodgate adjustment. I popped the cap off and can see there's an allen head adjuster in there. Thanks a lot for the help!

    Bob
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  8. #8
    ballbuster
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    Oh yeah...

    Quote Originally Posted by bobonker View Post
    Looks like I do have the floodgate adjustment. I popped the cap off and can see there's an allen head adjuster in there. Thanks a lot for the help!

    Bob
    ...another good point:

    Make sure the cable is adjusted correctly. If it has any slop in the cable when not locked out, it won't fully pull to the lockout position. One time, I pulled my fork off my bike and almost sent it back when I figured out the reason it wasn't locking out was because I didn't pull all of the slop out of the cable.

  9. #9
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    I had the same issue. My solution was in the cable. Hopefully my explanation makes sense:

    My lockout was pulling enough cable for 90% of the required movement to lockout. So, with a third set of hands, I moved the lockout 10% before tightening the cable. That gets me to full lockout and doesn't affect the unlocked movement. Numbers are used to make the point and are not accurate. I had to experiment some to get it right.

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

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