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  1. #1
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    Replacement cranks

    I have a Trek Stache 7. And because I am a noob, when attempting to remove the pedals and install clip-less I wrenched the left pedal the wrong way. Even with the help of the shop the pedal could not be removed. If I were to replace the cranks as a possible solution, is there a recommended upgrade or should I just replace the cranks set and/or crank arms with the same:Race Face Ride, 38/24 w/turbine outer ring?

  2. #2
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    Hard to believe the pedal cannot be removed. Take the crank (or crank arm) off the bike, wrap a rag around it, put it in a vise and using a pedal wrench give it a few good whacks in the right direction. Should loosen, and you won't need to buy new cranks.

    Unless you WANT new cranks...

  3. #3
    What could go wrong ...
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    can the shop get you a left crank arm
    I used to ride to Win ... Now I ride to Grin

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  4. #4
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    The pedal bolt head was essentially stripped from trying to take if off, so the pedal wrench is retired at this point. Ended up trying a vise-grips (stripped bolt head) and a 6mm hex head (on the inside) at the same time and still wouldn't budge. Other options presented were a torch and/or drilling it out. Neither of which is available to me. Didn't request a left crank arm from the shop, so I could check that out.
    Last edited by Sweetwater Jones; 07-20-2013 at 04:45 PM. Reason: Vice to vise

  5. #5
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    Remember that you'll have to buy replacement pedals too.

  6. #6
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    Yep, if you stripped out the internal hex on the pedal it's easier just to replace the crank (or crank arm if it's that side) and pedals.

  7. #7
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    Re: Replacement cranks

    Cut pedal off with as much of the spindle as possible , weld long piece of scrap steel to remaining spindle put the arm in a vice and unscrew it

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

  8. #8
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    If OP can't even access a torch, much less a drill.....how is he gonna weld something to it?
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  9. #9
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    Re: Replacement cranks

    Sometimes when a hex bolt is stripped you can get a torx to work. Use a piece of pipe over the wrench to get more smooth torque. Hitting with a hammer strips much easier

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747

  10. #10
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    Re: Replacement cranks

    Sears often has tools for this kind of stuff.

    http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do...r=00952154000P

    I just pasted this into another thread - its for screw extraction, but they might have something like this for larger size hex bolts too.

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  11. #11
    > /dev/null 2&>1
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    Re: Replacement cranks

    Maybe these are for hex, product title says hex, but description doesn't.

    http://m.sears.com/productdetails.do...ullFillment=VD

    Here is a better pic, looks like it might work:

    http://www.irwin.com/tools/screw-bol...stic-case-sets

    These are designed to extract counter clockwise. Luckily its your left pedal, which should loosen CCW when using the hex bolt on the inside of the crank.

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  12. #12
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    It looks like your bike comes with a heavy and flimsy bottom bracket and crank assembly, good time to upgrade.

    If you want to salvage the thing, one thing to try is to hammer a size larger 1/2" drive Torx socket into the hex on the back of the pedal, and use an impact wrench counterclockwise/loosen direction from the back side.

  13. #13
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    I know you don't have access to a torch but you can even do this with a lighter...

    Put the pedal in ice and heat the crank up - a torch is nice but you could use a lighter or propane torch ($16 home depot). This is how I got header bolts out of my car and it worked when all else seemed to fail...

  14. #14
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    Remove the crank off the bike and stick it in a vice (use a rag to keep from scratching it) and go buy a cheap 6 inch pipe wrench from Harbor Freight. The find a piece of pipe (Home Depot) that will fit over the end to use as a cheater pipe. Trust me it will come off with a pipe wrench lol.

    Jake

  15. #15
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    Get a shiny new SLX crank for $99 with BB and consider it a nice upgrade.
    “People fear death even more than pain. It's strange that they fear death. Life hurts a lot more than death." JM

  16. #16
    R.I.P. DogFriend
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    My $0.02:

    Get these:

    Race Face Evolve 2X10 Cranks 2012 Oe > Components > Drivetrain > Cranksets | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop

    They will slide right in, and they are the same chainring size as stock.

  17. #17
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    Finally got it with the help of my brother and his impact wrench and a vise grip. Cranks were not damaged. It was tough, sheared a one of the hex bits trying. Thanks.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweetwater Jones View Post
    Cranks were not damaged.
    So, you cross threaded right handed threads (right pedal) into left handed threaded hole (left crank) and the crank threads were not damaged?

    I have seen people do this several times, the crank arm is toast. The pedal is toast. You should be able to buy a left crank arm through your LBS. However, you have to buy 2 new pedals.

    Easy way to remember which way pedal threads - put the pedal in the hole, hold the pedal spindle, and spin the cranks backwards.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by crit_boy View Post
    So, you cross threaded right handed threads (right pedal) into left handed threaded hole (left crank) and the crank threads were not damaged?

    I have seen people do this several times, the crank arm is toast. The pedal is toast. You should be able to buy a left crank arm through your LBS. However, you have to buy 2 new pedals.

    Easy way to remember which way pedal threads - put the pedal in the hole, hold the pedal spindle, and spin the cranks backwards.
    No, just turned the peddle too tight trying to take it off (the wrong way) and tightened to the point of stripping the bolt (turning it the correct way) once I realized what I was doing. I did not cross thread the new peddles.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sweetwater Jones View Post
    No, just turned the peddle too tight trying to take it off (the wrong way) and tightened to the point of stripping the bolt (turning it the correct way) once I realized what I was doing. I did not cross thread the new peddles.
    Oh, I misunderstood what happened. Odd that the shop could not get it out. As post 2 said, putting the crank in a vise should have done the trick.

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