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  1. #1
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    Manitou Tower vs Used SID

    I am looking to change out the suntour fork on my Hardrock disc. I have done some research and picked out the Manitou Tower Expert 100mm to snatch up once it goes on some sort of sale. Meanwhile, I'm still looking around and just stumbled on a used 2012 Sid 29 80mm off of a 2012 Stumpjumper for around the same current price, would this be a better upgrade instead?

    I'm still relatively new, but I would like to think I will eventually be more AM oriented vs XC (the SID is a XC fork, yea?)

    Suggestions? Thanks

  2. #2
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    SIDs are light and flex. I never liked riding them, but I havent been on the newest model with thicker stanchions. I have a tower pro that is performing very well. Its a QR15 though so I cant say how well a 9mm QR will be in comparison. I got mine for $450 from the local shop and I have to say it rides a whole lot better then I expected it would.

  3. #3
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    SIDS are a great forks but definitely more XC oriented. For all mountain riding you'll probably be much happier with a 100 or 120mm fork. I doubt the 120 will screw up the geometry but you might wanna talk to someone with your same frame. You might like the slacker angle when going with more travel.

    If it were me, I'd be looking for either the tower pro or a Reba. Those models will suit you better for trail/am riding. Also, I've always liked the fox forks but you'll spend a lot if you buy new. Be careful buying used because it may need to be serviced, which costs around 100 bucks. So make sure to factor that into your total budget. Don't forget to grab a crown race for the new fork, or you can usually reuse the one from your suntour.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by drz400sm View Post
    SIDS are a great forks but definitely more XC oriented. For all mountain riding you'll probably be much happier with a 100 or 120mm fork. I doubt the 120 will screw up the geometry but you might wanna talk to someone with your same frame. You might like the slacker angle when going with more travel.

    If it were me, I'd be looking for either the tower pro or a Reba. Those models will suit you better for trail/am riding. Also, I've always liked the fox forks but you'll spend a lot if you buy new. Be careful buying used because it may need to be serviced, which costs around 100 bucks. So make sure to factor that into your total budget. Don't forget to grab a crown race for the new fork, or you can usually reuse the one from your suntour.
    Can you elaborate on the crown race? They wouldn't come with the new forks?

  5. #5
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    Nope, it will not come with the new fork. I actually only mentioned it because I remember the first time I changed a fork, and completely overlooked it. Ended up getting excited for the new fork, the had to wait a few extra days due to one small part I overlooked.

    The crown race is not a universal part. It is installed on the bottom portion of your steer tube and fits into your bottom headset bearing perfectly so everything works together. I'm sure in some cases you can use one not made for the bearing, but it's not recommended. I've tried mating different brands and they were close, but not perfect. It's only a 5-10 dollar part, but is very important. Also, you'll need a star nut installed inside the steer tube. Most used forks will have one installed, but not new forks ( from what I've seen ). I guess my point is to make sure you don't overlook anything. It's not as easy as just removing the fork and putting the new one in its place.

  6. #6
    HOV
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    You can reuse the crown race from your old fork if you don't have a new one. I've reinstalled old crown races using a small length of PVC but the proper tool is, well... more proper.

    You don't need a star nut if you use a head lock. I stopped using star nuts because the head lock is more secure, less finicky, and doesn't mess up the steer tube like a star nut does. You also don't need a special tool to use a head lock like you need for a star nut. I'd recommend the Sette brand head lock, nice piece of kit for $14.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by steammachine View Post
    Can you elaborate on the crown race? They wouldn't come with the new forks?
    The crown race is part of the headset/bearings and is different depending on headset. It can be removed from the old fork and reinstalled on a new one but be careful to not damage it or any seals that some of them have as part of it. Basically it's just a little metal wedge/ring the seats the bearing properly on the base of the fork.
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
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    Go to the shop you bought your bike from and skk them to get you a crown race. PVC installation is easy and painless. Installing a star nut isn't tough either. I've got a screw driver that is exactly the right size that I use. Just be careful to keep it level. As for the fork question...idk.

  9. #9
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    Oh, and I would DEFINITELY get a Tower over a SID, especially a USED SID!!!
    Going to try and bring Trail Tire TV back. go take a look... http://trailtiretv.blogspot.com/

  10. #10
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    I am not quite sure that the SID coming from a Stumpjumper would fit your Hardrock, Stumpjumper's headtube is tapered if I recall correctly

  11. #11
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    To remove the crown race from your fork, you can either pry it off with a flat head screwdriver and a mallet, or ask a shop to remove it using a specialty tool. If you do it yourself, make sure you dont damage it because they can definitely be reused. Just start with one side, and then work your way around. If you have no gap between the crown race and the fork, you can first try using a razerblade to give it a small gap, then use the flathead to finish the job. If you have a shop do it, it only takes a second...and id never pay them to do it. Once removed, find yourself a small piece of PVC pipe, apply some waterproof grease, and use a mallet to hammer the crown race onto the new fork until it sits flush with no gap. Should only require 3-4 hits of the mallet. Youll need to find a pvc pipe with an inside diameter of 1 1/8 inches for the job.

    Also, if you buy a used fork your gonna have to make sure it has the same specs as your current fork. The hardrocks look like they use a 1 1/8 inch straight steer tube...so anything that says "tapered" will not work. If you still have the stock wheels, the fork will need to be have 9mm Quick Release drop outs, unless its convertible to a 15 thru axle. Look at the end caps on the hubs to see if they can be removed and replaced with a thru axle adapter. I doubt they can, but if you plan on upgrading the wheels...it might make more sense to do it all at once. Im a big fan of the 15mm thru axle compared to the standard QR drop outs...and the industry is leaning towards the thru axles. You should notice improved stiffness by going to the 32 stanchions, but even stiffer with the thru axle.

    One last thing...i think i mentioned before you might be able to go with either a 80, 100, or 120mm fork. After looking at the hardrocks specs..it comes stock with a 80mm. So, just keep in mind that it will change the geometry of the bike if you increase the travel. Im sure the bike will ride fine with the 100 or 120 mm fork...but definitely ask around to see if guys like the slacker head angle. Im confident youll have no problems with a 100mm fork, just not sure about the 5 inch travel forks.

  12. #12
    djw
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    I just installed a new Tower Pro on my Kona Unit. My old SIR9 had a Fox FIT RLC but it didn't have quite enough steerer tube to swap over to the Kona. Fox forks are quite expensive now and the Tower seemed to get good reviews so I gave it a try. It has more actual travel than the Fox (both are nominally 80mm) and the remote lockout (optional) works well. Longevity is still an open question (Fox was great) but I would definitely choose it again instead of a used SID.

  13. #13
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    Maybe things have changed, but from past experiences with manitou forks I will never ride another. Rear shocks are a different story. Sorry to bash them, but...

  14. #14
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    Thanks for the comprehensiveness, everyone. I've pretty much scoured the entire interweb on other's Hardrock fork upgrades. Most go with the 100mm and are happy with it, less go with the 120mm, but still vouch for it. Most of the understandable 120mm skepeticism came from more experienced people but I couldn't find any actual accounts of failure. I'm going to play it safe though and go with the 100mm Manitou for now, besides, the 120mm makes the bike look weird!

  15. #15
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    I have about 4 months on a 2012 tower pro. I had a reba before it.

    hands down the tower wins. Plusher,easier to set up,stiffer and easy to tune.

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