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  1. #1
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    New question here. Manitou Tower Pro question

    Hi friends, noob here. I have done some heavy reading and even though I dont really understand fork jargon I have gotten an opportunity I feel I should not pass. Is for a Manitou Tower Pro fork and it will go on a '13 Trek Marlin.

    The only options I have available are:
    29 100mm/29 100mm QR15/29 100mm Taper QR15
    29 120mm/29 120mm QR15/29 120mm Taper QR15
    29 140mm Taper QR15
    29 80mm/29 80mm QR15/29 80mm Taper QR15

    However, I dont know which will be the correct fork application. I ride XC w/ some DH. There are 2' drops, some small jumps, all mainly single track trails w/ medium rock gardens. I have read some threads here and I'm awfully confused. I would like to get the right fork the first time around.

    Your help is greatly appreciated.

  2. #2
    human dehumidifier
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    I don't think any of those forks will work for you because they're tapered steerer with QR 15, and your bike has a straight 1-1/8" head tube with 9mm QR. You might be able to adapt the front hub to work or replace the front wheel to be compatible with the QR 15, but the headtube is what it is. You can't adapt a 1-1/8" frame to use a tapered steer tube.

    Another concern is the Trek G2 geometry which uses a different fork, but that's not a deal breaker, it'll just change the handling a bit. I think it will steer quicker (maybe to the point of being twitchy) with a non-G2 fork. It might be the other way around though, I am not sure off the top of my head.

    So you would ideally find a 100mm fork, G2 geometry, 9mm QR, with a straight 1-1/8" steer tube. Hope that helps.
    But if you close your eyes it becomes so easy to see

  3. #3
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    bob pretty sure he means he means he has the option of an 80mm, 100mm, and 120mm with a 9mmQR, or 15mmQR and the option of straight or tapered steerer tube, as well as the 140mm travel option. With that said, according to bob, you want the 29 100mm

  4. #4
    human dehumidifier
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    Yeah, now that you mention it, it does look like it was copied from a table and pasted without the column headers.
    But if you close your eyes it becomes so easy to see

  5. #5
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    That frame can use a tapered fork also. It has a 44mm head tube. You would need to get a new headset to run a tapered fork. Cane Creek 40 series works great, look for a zs44 upper and ec44 lower mixed headset. CC's website has a headset finder that has just about frame.

    Your hub is limited to a qr though. Going to a thru-axle fork is a great upgrade.

  6. #6
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    Don't hold this fork back by not upgrading from that 9mm QR. I have the same frame and run a 120mm, 20mm axle and it completely changed the bike.

    Keep in mind this slackens the HTA out, and raises the cockpit-which is easily put back down, wanders slightly more on steep, short climbs but overall handling and downhill it RIPS. If you're ok with not having a fame warranty do the 120mm.

    If not I'd recommend doing at least another front wheel and doing the 100mm, 15mm TA.


  7. #7
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    So what I'm getting here it's that the correct application is the 29 100mm 9mm QR, correct? Also, can someone point into the direction of a fork swap tutorial... :-) I do appreciate everyone's opinion, this is what a community should be like. Any other suggestions/posts/ideas? I'm always open to suggestions from other owners with the same ride

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  8. #8
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    No, the long-term option is tapered steerer and 15mm through.
    That will give you something you will take to your next build. As well as get the best performance for your bike now.
    For this bike you would need new headset bearings and a front wheel with changeable endcaps including those for 15mm.
    The Manitou Tower Pro has 48mm offset. Your current fork has 51mm. As you go from 48 to 51 the contact patch of the front tire gets closer to being inline with the steerer tube and this quickens steering. Not the other way around as has been mentioned.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by beer_coffee_water View Post
    That frame can use a tapered fork also. It has a 44mm head tube. You would need to get a new headset to run a tapered fork. Cane Creek 40 series works great, look for a zs44 upper and ec44 lower mixed headset. CC's website has a headset finder that has just about frame.

    Your hub is limited to a qr though. Going to a thru-axle fork is a great upgrade.
    Great info, what is the big deal about being tapered? I'm a noob and quite confused.
    Quote Originally Posted by eb1888 View Post
    No, the long-term option is tapered steerer and 15mm through.
    That will give you something you will take to your next build. As well as get the best performance for your bike now.
    For this bike you would need new headset bearings and a front wheel with changeable endcaps including those for 15mm.
    The Manitou Tower Pro has 48mm offset. Your current fork has 51mm. As you go from 48 to 51 the contact patch of the front tire gets closer to being inline with the steerer tube and this quickens steering. Not the other way around as has been mentioned.
    thanks for the Chinese lesson...



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  10. #10
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    Manitou Tower Pro question

    Quote Originally Posted by rsaavedra View Post
    Great info, what is the big deal about being tapered?
    A tapered (steer tube) fork will not fit in a frame designed for a straight steer tube.

    At the very least, your frame would require a new lower headset to fit a tapered fork. The frame's head tube may also need to be reamed deeper to fit the new headset. All of this requires special tools.

    Get a straight steerer fork and it is just a swap out fit. No new parts needed.

    But, as mentioned before, these forks will change the handling of your bike, making the steering less responsive.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    A tapered (steer tube) fork will not fit in a frame designed for a straight steer tube.

    At the very least, your frame would require a new lower headset to fit a tapered fork. The frame's head tube may also need to be reamed deeper to fit the new headset. All of this requires special tools.

    Get a straight steerer fork and it is just a swap out fit. No new parts needed.

    But, as mentioned before, these forks will change the handling of your bike, making the steering less responsive.
    Cool thanks. Now you said "these forks will change the handling of your bike, making the steering less responsive“, but would I really see a big difference in responsiveness on the 3mm difference between forks?

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  12. #12
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    You won't see a big difference and what you do see, if any, is something you can easily adapt to.
    All currently produced frames for better quality bikes are tapered. Getting a tapered now makes it usable in a season or two when you move up.
    So check carefully into the possibility of using one on your current bike.

  13. #13
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    What is the difference between the 120mm or the 100mm. How do I benefit from one or the other?

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  14. #14
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    20 mm...........ba dum ching

    I have a 2012 Marlin and just upgraded to a Tower Expert which only comes in a straight steerer and 9mm qr. I have a tight budget though. Getting that fork for 300 was my max. Going up to the pro and then needing to change out my hub etc was too much for me and i'm mostly cross country so not too worried.

    Most of the advice above is good. I've personally never heard of anyone putting a tapered in this frame. I would avoid it but that's just me. The extra 20 mm of travel will void your frame warranty though there are lots of discussions out there saying its pretty unlikely that the extra 20mm would cause you a problem. Definitely would not advise going above 120.

    If you can afford a new wheelset/hub it seems to me that going to the through axle is a worthwhile upgrade. Straight steerers are still very common and buying a tapered and adapting your headset (and possibly reaming out the frame?) seems crazy just to have a tapered tube. If you end up wanting a new bike in two years and get something with tapered just sell the Tower.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    A tapered (steer tube) fork will not fit in a frame designed for a straight steer tube.

    At the very least, your frame would require a new lower headset to fit a tapered fork. The frame's head tube may also need to be reamed deeper to fit the new headset. All of this requires special tools.
    I have been down this road, I'm very happy with the result, but it was very difficult to find a bike shop that had a 44mm headset reamer. So if you plan to go this way make sure you have a LBS that can do the job. Doing this will also add 12mm to your stack height.
    If you want to future proof, get the tapered 15qr. But understand it will require more parts, a trip to a LBS that has a 44mm reamer. A new hub and a rebuild of your wheel to install it, or a new wheel. This will also slightly slacken your geometry, and probably void your frame warranty.
    That said, I decided against all of the above last September, and bought a straight steerer, 9mm QR fork for my bike. I outgrew both as a rider, and the bike and the fork are both gone. I wish I had gone tapered, 15qr. At least I could have kept the fork.

    Heres a pic of a 44mm headtube with the tapered steerer headset.
    Last edited by swildnm; 07-31-2013 at 07:24 AM. Reason: added pic

  16. #16
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    To each his own. I guess this makes more sense with a more expensive fork. For me a $300 dollar fork is a huge upgrade over the stock suntour (the only fork i've ever ridden) and not worth all this work and money. I guess if it was an 800 dollar fox i might feel differently. But at that point I feel like its worth investigating selling your current bike and getting the right frame to match the fork you want.

  17. #17
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    Would I be able to tell the difference between 100 and 120? What's the benefit for me?

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  18. #18
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    Its the amount of travel. For one it's going to affect the way your bike handles because it will alter the geometry slightly. I think the most common answer to that is going to be yes you will notice it, but you will likely just adapt to it and probably enjoy it more depending on your riding style. The second part is you will notice the difference in travel if you are hitting bumps that cause you to bottom out 100mm.

    Just know that the change in offset is just preference. The change in travel voids your warranty.

  19. #19
    squish, squish in da fish
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    Diff between whether you want that extra 20mm of travel is how aggressive you ride. If you don't thi k you'll use all the travel then go for 100. You don't want extra weight if you don't need it. I'd go with the widest axle you can get so that it stiffens the lateral flex. I've run a 120mm w/ 20mm thru axle on a giant talon 1 and loved it. Now it's on a nimble 9 and I love it even more. That fork is worth it's weight in gold.

  20. #20
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    Manitou Tower Pro question

    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    Diff between whether you want that extra 20mm of travel is how aggressive you ride. If you don't thi k you'll use all the travel then go for 100. You don't want extra weight if you don't need it. I'd go with the widest axle you can get so that it stiffens the lateral flex. I've run a 120mm w/ 20mm thru axle on a giant talon 1 and loved it. Now it's on a nimble 9 and I love it even more. That fork is worth it's weight in gold.
    There is no weight difference between the 100 and 120mm versions.
    Which you choose is more about the handling changes.
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  21. #21
    squish, squish in da fish
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    I guess not but if you're a weight weenie then the 3oz diff between the 100 & 120 might matter.

  22. #22
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    Manitou Tower Pro question

    Quote Originally Posted by fishwrinkle View Post
    I guess not but if you're a weight weenie then the 3oz diff between the 100 & 120 might matter.
    The claimed weights are identical.
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  23. #23
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    There has to be a weight difference I think they just dont typically list them. Some sights i've seen will say things like 3.6lbs (100mm) The weight difference would be negligible, the handling difference is the question.

  24. #24
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    Manitou Tower Pro question

    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    There has to be a weight difference I think they just dont typically list them. Some sights i've seen will say things like 3.6lbs (100mm) The weight difference would be negligible, the handling difference is the question.
    AFAIK the difference between the 80/100/120 forks is just an internal spacer configuration.
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  25. #25
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    That is true in adjustable travel forks but these are not which helps save weight off smaller travel forks

    Ed K: That is correct. The MARS spring system is just too involved to allow this, and our higher end forks use specific leg lengths for each travel to help reduce weight.

    The Engineer Speaks: 2012 Manitou Tower Pro

    Just saw that linked somewhere else recently. Pretty sure the new Manitous will be travel adjustable though

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