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  1. #1
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    I need help with 1x10 conversion

    Recently I was using a 34T e thirteen chainring in front attached to my Shimano XT M785 crank arm. This afternoon I changed the front ring to 32T Renthal Ultralite SR4. I noticed that the chain are not aligned, because of this the rotation of the drivetrain is not as smooth.

    Where can I get spacer?

  2. #2
    dvn
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    Why is your chainline different? You replaced a 34 with a 32. Chainline should not have changed unless you mounted the 32 differently. EX: front of the spider tabs vs. the rear.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

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    How do I mount the renthal ultralite sr4. Is the label with "32T" needs to face towards the pedal?

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    Take it to a bike shop.

  5. #5
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    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    Take it to a bike shop.
    the last time I sent my bike to the bike shop they intentionally destroy my new xt caliper by over tightening the nibble; and new fox rear shox, because I did not bought those parts to them.

    Anyway, I also installed a new xt 11-36 cassette and kmc x10-L. I'm not too sure of the kmc x10-L cAn be use in mountain bike.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitzikatzi View Post
    Which size?

  8. #8
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    If your not happy with the "spacing" of your new chain ring. Did you try mounting it the other way around?

    I have no idea what size spacers you may need. You have the bike in front of you have a look at your chain-line take some measurements and choose the spacer width required.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by dvn View Post
    Why is your chainline different? You replaced a 34 with a 32. Chainline should not have changed unless you mounted the 32 differently. EX: front of the spider tabs vs. the rear.
    this
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by rave81 View Post
    the last time I sent my bike to the bike shop they intentionally destroy my new xt caliper by over tightening the nibble; and new fox rear shox, because I did not bought those parts to them.
    Go to different bike shop then. You don't know what you're doing.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    Go to different bike shop then. You don't know what you're doing.
    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    Take it to a bike shop.
    Do you have a bike shop?

    My impression is that the OP want to take care of his problem himself...

  12. #12
    dvn
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjaakoo View Post
    Do you have a bike shop?

    My impression is that the OP want to take care of his problem himself...
    It sounds like maybe he does not have the mechanical aptitude.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by rave81 View Post
    the last time I sent my bike to the bike shop they intentionally destroy my new xt caliper by over tightening the nibble;
    That damn nibble is tricky.. It will get ya every time...

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjaakoo View Post
    Do you have a bike shop?

    My impression is that the OP want to take care of his problem himself...
    You're correct I want to fix the problem myself, coz another frustrating thing when I sent my bike to the bike shop it take them 2 weeks to fix it even though its only minor.

    I installed all the component in my bike and previously convert my drive train to 1x10 using e thirteen chainring and never experience this chainline alignment problem. Also this problem doesn't occurred with 33T renthal ultralite sr4 only in 32T.



    I fix/install my own bike component, why would I want to pay someone for $100aud, when I could fix it myself and save money. The only time I will send my bike to the lbs is fitting of bottom bracket and headset, coz I don't have tools to do that.

    Spacer is the answer for this problem, as mots suggested.

  15. #15
    dvn
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    Quote Originally Posted by rave81 View Post
    Also this problem doesn't occurred with 33T renthal ultralite sr4 only in 32T.
    I'm lost. This makes no sense.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  16. #16
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    I managed to fix the chain line alignment with a $2 stainless steal washer which I bought from a local hardware.I need help with 1x10 conversion-photo-3-.jpgI need help with 1x10 conversion-photo-2-.jpg

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by sjaakoo View Post
    Do you have a bike shop?

    My impression is that the OP want to take care of his problem himself...
    No I don't personally own a bike shop. I understand the OP wants to do it himself; however, he doesn't have the ability or skills so he should take it to a bike shop. He probably is that guy that always shows up at the bike shop with broken parts because he tried to install it himself and failed.

    Installing parts for a customer is one thing; having to undo their failed attempt to install and figure out where it went wrong is another much more annoying thing to do that keeps bike shop people from liking the OP.

    This problem is an example. How would the chain line change if they are both 10sp rings? That chain line likely changed because that is not a 10sp chain ring and though it should be fine since it's 1x but it's not the ideal situation and bike shop people don't like fudging it because some racer got his ultimate chain ring online on a huge discount and needs it for a race in 10hrs.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR-33 View Post
    No I don't personally own a bike shop. I understand the OP wants to do it himself; however, he doesn't have the ability or skills so he should take it to a bike shop. He probably is that guy that always shows up at the bike shop with broken parts because he tried to install it himself and failed.

    Installing parts for a customer is one thing; having to undo their failed attempt to install and figure out where it went wrong is another much more annoying thing to do that keeps bike shop people from liking the OP.

    This problem is an example. How would the chain line change if they are both 10sp rings? That chain line likely changed because that is not a 10sp chain ring and though it should be fine since it's 1x but it's not the ideal situation and bike shop people don't like fudging it because some racer got his ultimate chain ring online on a huge discount and needs it for a race in 10hrs.

    I disagree with you. I know what I'm doing I've been building my own bikes for almost) years. The Renthal ultralite SR is fully compatible with 1x10 and its specific use for 1x10 speed setup according to their website.

    i solved the chain line problem by installing a washer as I posted above.

  19. #19
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    You say that you fixed the chainline alignment problem with some washers, but you never state if "fixing" the chainline solved the real problem, which was a drivetrain that wasn't smooth. So to recap:

    34T e.thirteen ring -> Everything OK
    33T Renthal Ultralite SR4 -> Everything OK
    32T Renthal Ultralite SR4 -> Drivetrain not smooth

    I have no idea when chronologically you tried the 33T Renthal ring, but based on your posts, the move to the 32T Renthal wasn't the only variable that you changed that led to the unsmooth drivetrain. You stated that you also installed an XT cassette and KMC chain, which could be a cause since the chain and cassette haven't had a chance to wear in together yet. I find it hard to believe that a shift of a couple millimeters using washers solved all the issues, and that a difference of one tooth on otherwise identical Renthal rings could be the source of the problem. Here are my questions...

    1) The lack of smoothness with the 32T Renthal, was it in all gears?
    2) Was there any rubbing on your chain guide with the 32T Renthal?
    3) Now that you've used the washers, is the drivetrain as objectively smooth as it was with the 34T e.thirteen ring?

    The chain is rarely straight in a 1x10 setup to begin with, so I just don't buy the chainline being off as the root cause of the problem.

  20. #20
    dvn
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    Quote Originally Posted by savechief View Post
    You say that you fixed the chainline alignment problem with some washers, but you never state if "fixing" the chainline solved the real problem, which was a drivetrain that wasn't smooth. So to recap:

    34T e.thirteen ring -> Everything OK
    33T Renthal Ultralite SR4 -> Everything OK
    32T Renthal Ultralite SR4 -> Drivetrain not smooth

    I have no idea when chronologically you tried the 33T Renthal ring, but based on your posts, the move to the 32T Renthal wasn't the only variable that you changed that led to the unsmooth drivetrain. You stated that you also installed an XT cassette and KMC chain, which could be a cause since the chain and cassette haven't had a chance to wear in together yet. I find it hard to believe that a shift of a couple millimeters using washers solved all the issues, and that a difference of one tooth on otherwise identical Renthal rings could be the source of the problem. Here are my questions...

    1) The lack of smoothness with the 32T Renthal, was it in all gears?
    2) Was there any rubbing on your chain guide with the 32T Renthal?
    3) Now that you've used the washers, is the drivetrain as objectively smooth as it was with the 34T e.thirteen ring?

    The chain is rarely straight in a 1x10 setup to begin with, so I just don't buy the chainline being off as the root cause of the problem.
    Exactly! There should be no need to shim a chain ring a couple of mm on a 1x10 drivetrain. Like I said before, it just doesn't make sense. The OP may be able to work on his bikes but I don't believe he understands the mechanics of it.
    "Either way it doesn't really matter, I just got back from a bike ride."
    > dbhammercycle

  21. #21
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    It may relate to the chainring alignment with the chainguide?

  22. #22
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    That's what it appears to me. Instead of adjusting the chain guide, it looks like he shimmed his chainring to keep it from rubbing his chain guide. Chainline doesn't matter with a 1x10 as you are going to have a bad chainline most of the time. Or I guess you could have a 1x10 and just not shift into the smallest 4 gears and largest 4 gears and feel good about your chainline.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    That's what it appears to me. Instead of adjusting the chain guide, it looks like he shimmed his chainring to keep it from rubbing his chain guide. Chainline doesn't matter with a 1x10 as you are going to have a bad chainline most of the time. Or I guess you could have a 1x10 and just not shift into the smallest 4 gears and largest 4 gears and feel good about your chainline.
    thats what I thought when I saw the picture... he shimmed the ring gear inwards, which could only mean only the chainguide really needed adjusting.

    Or maybe it was that nibble again..

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    That's what it appears to me. Instead of adjusting the chain guide, it looks like he shimmed his chainring to keep it from rubbing his chain guide. Chainline doesn't matter with a 1x10 as you are going to have a bad chainline most of the time. Or I guess you could have a 1x10 and just not shift into the smallest 4 gears and largest 4 gears and feel good about your chainline.
    Is chainline any better with the 1x11 system from Sram or is chainline simply an issue yo have to be okay with on a 1x10 or 1x11 system.

  25. #25
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    Chainline on a 1x10 and 1x11 will be equally non-optimal. The chainring would ideally align with the 6th cog on the cassette for a 1x11, which would put it at an angle for all other cogs, with the largest and smallest having the worst chainline. I'm running 1x10 and to me, the chainline is not an issue at all.

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