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How to Best Lighten a 2011 Specialized Rockhopper

5K views 12 replies 10 participants last post by  j35u5fr34k 
#1 ·
Hey All,

I've got an interesting setup that Id like to lighten up a bit. I am a 5'11" 185 lb rider. I started out with a 2011 Specialized 19" Rockhopper Expert 29er. I actually had a crack develop in the frame after about 6 months, so Specialized upgraded me under warranty to a 2012 Carve Pro frame. So basically, I am riding a Carve with all 2011 Rockhopper Expert components. Only upgrades so far have been the grips, clipless pedals, and a 180mm rotor up front. I love this bike and it does about everything I could want to do on the trails, but its a bit heavy for a hardtail and I am wondering what you all suggest for the most effective upgrades to remove some weight. I was thinking the biggest impact per dollar spent would be a lighter wheelset (would go tubeless) and a lighter fork (maybe a Rockshox Reba or similar). Any other suggestions? Below are the bike's current specs:

Thanks!


FRAME
Specialized 2012 Carve Pro Frame: M4SL fully manipulated alloy frame, 29" XC geometry, fully butted w/ smooth welding, tapered head/seat tube, forged post mount 160mm dropouts w/ replaceable derailleur hanger, disc only
FORK
RockShox Tora TK 29 SL, magnesium lower, 32mm Cr-Mo stanchions, 1 1/8" alloy steerer, coil spring w/ preload adj., turn key damping w/ LO & external reb. adj.
HEADSET
Integrated 1-1/8" threadless, Campy type full cartridge bearings
STEM
3D forged alloy, 7 degree rise, 31.8mm clamp
HANDLEBARS
Butted alloy riserbar, 25mm rise, 8 degree back sweep, 6 degree up
GRIPS
Specialized Contour XC, Locking
FRONT BRAKE
Shimano BR-M505 hydraulic disc brake, dual piston, Shimano SLX SM-RT66 180mm rotor
REAR BRAKE
Shimano BR-M505 hydraulic disc brake, dual piston, Shimano SLX SM-RT66 160mm rotor
BRAKE LEVERS
Shimano BR-M505 hydraulic
FRONT DERAILLEUR
Shimano Alivo, 34.9mm clamp, top swing, dual pull
REAR DERAILLEUR
Shimano Deore 9sp Shadow Long cage
SHIFT LEVERS
Shimano SL-M590 Deore trigger
CASSETTE
Shimano HG30, 9-speed, 11-34t
CHAIN
KMC X9 w/ reusable Missing Link
CRANKSET
Shimano FC-M430-8, Octalink spline
CHAINRINGS
44A x 32S x 22S replaceable
BOTTOM BRACKET
Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68mm x 118mm
PEDALS
Forte Carve Clipless, SPD
RIMS
Alex RHD 29", alloy double wall, pinned w/eyelets
FRONT HUB
Forged alloy, hi/low flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount and flange, QR, 32h
REAR HUB
Forged alloy, mid flange, double sealed, ground race, machined disc mount and flanges, cassette, QR, 36h
SPOKES
2mm (14g) stainless
FRONT TIRE
Specialized The Captain Control, 29x2.0", 60TPI, tubeless ready aramid bead
REAR TIRE
Specialized The Captain Control, 29x2.0", 60TPI, tubeless ready aramid bead
INNER TUBES
Presta valve
SADDLE
Specialized Rockhopper XC, Body Geometry, 143mm width, front and rear bumpers
SEATPOST
Forged 6061 alloy, 2 bolt head, 27.2mm, 12.5mm offset, micro adjust
SEAT BINDER
31.8mm, forged alloy, extruded QR lever
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I'm actually looking to lighten up my '09 RH. It's only stock parts now are the Tora solo air fork, crank arms/bb and the Deore shifters.

A carbon cockpit and light saddle will be where I start. I have the cockpit perfected and will replace with exact geo.

Then I'm going to a lighter 2x10 or 1x11 drivetrain. The 2x9/bash is durable but heavy. And after riding an XTR 2x10, it leaves a lot to be desired.

Next will be a Stan's/Hope wheel set to replace the WTB SDAM/DeoreXT set I built. I'll save a little weight and be on a stronger wheel.

Then a Reba fork with a thru axle. I'm happy with the performance of the Tora solo air, but its heavy.

And after I'm devorced for spending my life savings, I'll replace every bolt on the bike with a titanium twin.

Then buy a new bike and repeat. Lol

Good luck
 
#5 ·
Wheels for sure will make a huge difference and going tubeless will save approx 100g per wheel (assuming 2oz of sealant). XT cassette as someone mentioned saved a nice amount as well...I was forced to get one with my Stans wheels.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
 
#6 ·
My Rockhopper started out at 32lbs and ended up 23lbs... and it's all a matter of lighter and more expensive components.

With regard to the XT casette suggestions... to add to it... Unless you go to the XTR 10 speed cassette (yes I have), 9 speed is usually lighter. The XT 10 speed cassette is not much weight reduction.

There's also a lot of weight in the bottom-bracket-crankset you have, an XT or SLX crankset and the accompanying external BSA bottom bracket will be a good chunk of weight for the money.

For the front brakes, 160mm is usually more trouble free, and there are some lightweight rotors front and rear which are 67g of rotating weight... throw in a set of Ti bolts for the calipers.

The Reba is a great idea, that will save over 2 lbs.

If you're looking at 1X11 (XX1 I assume) consider a Wolftooth single up front, and get rid of the front derailleur/chainrings/shifter/cable for a lower cost alternative (with the XT crankset perhaps)

That along with proper wheelset/tubeless should get you under 25lbs.
 
#8 ·
I dropped 113g going from an CS-HG62-10 to an XT CS- M771 cassette so it's still something to consider. Plus if u r going with a Stans wheelset or similar with soft alu hub body it is recommended to go with a cassette with carrier assy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2
 
#9 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Very helpful! I think the bike weighs in currently at around 29 lbs, but the bike shop said to take that measurement with a grain of salt since their scale wasnt so accurate. If I could get this bike to about 25 lbs or so, I think Id be pleased.

So basically what I am hearing at this point to have the biggest impact is the following:
1) drive train (crank, bb, and casette...all XT or similar; might as well throw a new front derailleur in there too since the Alivo is kind of a piece of junk; the Deore rear derailleur is pretty nice though)
2) fork (Rock Shox Reba or similar)
3) wheelset (Stan's Arch or similar)

I would guess that those upgrades would not only give me a much nicer ride, but also shave off the 4-5 lbs I am looking for.

If I were to replace the drivetrain, I am a little unsure what route to go since it seems that the 3x9 setup has basically become non-existent on newer bikes. Are those components still readily available? In addition to the trails on weekends, I do use this bike to commute most days to work about 13 miles round trip (with a different set of more-road-friendly tires). As such, having the large chainring is actually really useful. 100% of my road riding is done in the 42 tooth chainring. When on the trails, about 80% is in the middle 32 tooth chainring, 10% in the 22 tooth chainring (not a lot of climbing here in central Texas), and 10% in the 42 tooth chainring. Would I be able to be comfortable both on the road and on the trails with a more modern 2x10 setup?

Also, how do you all feel about carbon handlebars and seat posts? Might save me another 0.5 lbs. or so between the two.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions so far. Very helpful! I think the bike weighs in currently at around 29 lbs, but the bike shop said to take that measurement with a grain of salt since their scale wasnt so accurate. If I could get this bike to about 25 lbs or so, I think Id be pleased.

So basically what I am hearing at this point to have the biggest impact is the following:
1) drive train (crank, bb, and casette...all XT or similar; might as well throw a new front derailleur in there too since the Alivo is kind of a piece of junk; the Deore rear derailleur is pretty nice though)
2) fork (Rock Shox Reba or similar)
3) wheelset (Stan's Arch or similar)

I would guess that those upgrades would not only give me a much nicer ride, but also shave off the 4-5 lbs I am looking for.

If I were to replace the drivetrain, I am a little unsure what route to go since it seems that the 3x9 setup has basically become non-existent on newer bikes. Are those components still readily available? In addition to the trails on weekends, I do use this bike to commute most days to work about 13 miles round trip (with a different set of more-road-friendly tires). As such, having the large chainring is actually really useful. 100% of my road riding is done in the 42 tooth chainring. When on the trails, about 80% is in the middle 32 tooth chainring, 10% in the 22 tooth chainring (not a lot of climbing here in central Texas), and 10% in the 42 tooth chainring. Would I be able to be comfortable both on the road and on the trails with a more modern 2x10 setup?

Also, how do you all feel about carbon handlebars and seat posts? Might save me another 0.5 lbs. or so between the two.
Save up and buy a bikesdirect.com bike. swap parts if you want to keep and now you have dream bike and a beater.
 
#10 ·
Carbon handlebars and posts ride nicer due to the compliance that carbon has.

I lost 1.86lbs of rotational weight off my Scott Scale 29er by going with Stan's Arch EX, tubeless, Race Kings, SLX Rotors, and XT cassette. Dropping your rotational assy weight will have the most noticeable affect. Steering assembly weight reduction would be very noticeable as well.

Plus after you build up your new set of light trail wheels, you can mount some more road friendly tires on your old wheelset so you don't dull the knobs on your trail tires on the pavement! So new wheelset is Winning!

It's probably a good idea to know your current component weights so that when u r shopping u aren't spending a lot of buck for same weight, heavier weight, or very little difference. I built an excel sheet that had weight of current components and weight of potential upgrade parts to get an idea of what each part would bring to the table for weight drop.

2x10 setup is good, good range. However I prefer having my middle ring + little and big ring when I want to use them :)
 
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