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  1. #1
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    Help: how to build 3x9 to 2x9?

    is that even right ^^? i am planning to go lighter on my bike. 4 months ago i bought a novara torero from rei, i have put almost 300 miles on the bike. i have ordered a new fork (rockshox recon silver tk 100mm) in replacement to my Suntour XCM 80mm. i was planning to change the gears. from 3x9 to 2x9? since i really dnt use the biggest gear in front except for road ride. what is the proper method for this? do i need to get another chain and bashguard?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrash_273 View Post
    is that even right ^^? i am planning to go lighter on my bike. 4 months ago i bought a novara torero from rei, i have put almost 300 miles on the bike. i have ordered a new fork (rockshox recon silver tk 100mm) in replacement to my Suntour XCM 80mm. i was planning to change the gears. from 3x9 to 2x9? since i really dnt use the biggest gear in front except for road ride. what is the proper method for this? do i need to get another chain and bashguard?
    Yes, you can take off your big chainring and go 2x9 - but why do you want to do this? It will save a little bit of weight, but at the weight your bike probably is, it won't make much difference, especially if you add a bashguard. (You won't need to change your chain.) If all you do is take off the big chainring, none of the other shifting will be different, so there really isn't a performance benefit.

    Changing the fork can make a big difference in performance, but likely the biggest difference will come from lighter wheels. This won't be cheap, and you have to make sure you get a wheelset that is strong enough for your riding and really is lighter than the wheels you have. Tires might also be worth upgrading, for both lighter weight and better performance for relatively little money.

    Otherwise, you should just ride your bike and enjoy it! And when you know you want to ride more and you want something that is lighter or higher performance, buy a better bike - you'll know better what is important for you, too. That's what a friend of mine did. He had a Novara hardtail that he rode a lot. He did upgrade the fork, and then the wheels, and the tires. Then, he bought a Santa Cruz Superlight 29er, getting a lighter full suspension bike that is a relative bargain (though not really inexpensive, but a great deal for what you get). I think this is a good progression.

  3. #3
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    1) Shift into smallest chainring/front and largest/rear
    2) Remove biggest chainring
    3) Turn Hi-limit screw clockwise all the way DOWN(the screw closest to seat tube)
    4) Check shifting and test ride bike
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  4. #4
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    Re: Help: how to build 3x9 to 2x9?

    Replace the big ring with a bash guard and limit out the front der so it can't shift beyond the middle chain ring. You won't save much if any weight. You will gain a little ground clearance and remove that massive saw blade that can rape your leg. My last 2 bikes have been converted to 2x9. There is rarely a need for a big chain ring unless all you ride are fire roads or greenway.

    --
    Stephen

  5. #5
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    whewww.. thats some awesome reply guys... i actually removed the big ring awhile ago but the scew wont lock the gears. so i just put it back. is there a special screw/nuts deeper than what i have right now? what do you guys think of mechanical brakes upgrade to hydraulic? was originally planning of getting a FS bike but i dnt want to suffer on the climb so i decided to upgrade my parts.
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  6. #6
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    All you need to get is a bashgaurd. This is really easy..

    1- Replace your big ring with the bash ring. You can re-use your chainring bolts. Here is a really cheap place to get a perfectly good bash ring for $18 shipped.

    2- dial in the high limit screw on the front derailleur to keep it from shifting in the big ring position.

    3- Shorten your chain. Park tools has great info on this here. Keep in mind that your middle ring is now your "big" ring. This step is REALLY important, because the ability to run a shorter chain is (IMO) the biggest advantage of losing the big ring. Since you can shorted the chain, you now have a whole lot less chain flopping around in the middle and small rings. This means fewer dropped chains, less chain slap.

    As others have said, you are not going to lose much weight doing this. Even if you skip the bash ring (in which case you will need single speed chainring bolts), there is really not much weight lost there.

    However, running the shorter chain IS is real performance benefit.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  7. #7
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    "what do you guys think of mechanical brakes upgrade to hydraulic? was originally planning of getting a FS bike but i dnt want to suffer on the climb so i decided to upgrade my parts. "

    ^Stop right there. Throwing any more money on this bike is a WASTE. Get a light frame(>3lbs/HT and >5lbs/FS) and build it up, with race components...much better.
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrash_273 View Post
    whewww.. thats some awesome reply guys... i actually removed the big ring awhile ago but the scew wont lock the gears. so i just put it back. is there a special screw/nuts deeper than what i have right now? what do you guys think of mechanical brakes upgrade to hydraulic? was originally planning of getting a FS bike but i dnt want to suffer on the climb so i decided to upgrade my parts.
    What you need in order to run the middle ring with nothing in the big ring position are single speed chainring bolts. They are shorter.

    I'd get the BBG bash, though. $18, 50-somthing grams, protects your chainring, and ensures you don't drop the chain to the outside.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  9. #9
    Bicyclochondriac.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah View Post
    "what do you guys think of mechanical brakes upgrade to hydraulic? was originally planning of getting a FS bike but i dnt want to suffer on the climb so i decided to upgrade my parts. "

    ^Stop right there. Throwing any more money on this bike is a WASTE. Get a light frame and build it up, with race components...much better.
    I have to agree in that I would not be buying new brakes and a new fork for this. Buying a cheap bike an upgrading everything is a very expensive way to get a better bike.

    However, $18 for the 3x to 2x conversion is totally worth it.

    And btw, a half decent FS bike is not going to make you suffer on the climbs. A really cheap-ass one will, though.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  10. #10
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    =D thanks alot guys. i was able to get a rockshox recon tk silver air 100mm for $171.00 shipped at pricepoint. do you guys think with this set up, 2x9-mechanical brakes(shimano alivio), rockshox fork, shorten chain. i can run a local race, even though i know im not going to be near the leader, (even if im last) i just want to experience it. =D im really addicted and been improving lately. thanks to this bike

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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrash_273 View Post
    That's an awesome bike. I have a Guardian and it's GREAT for the price point. It is basically the equivalent of an $800+ bike. Were I to buy now, I'd buy the Seeker for sure.

  13. #13
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  14. #14
    I Tried Them ALL... Moderator
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    ^Get the Airborne, man. Lots of love for those frames...and for good reason!
    "The mind will quit....well before the body does"

  15. #15
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    i will put it on my list. You think Airborne Goblin can be a good race bike?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrash_273 View Post
    i will put it on my list. You think Airborne Goblin can be a good race bike?
    I've been beat by bikes worse than that

    At this point any bike that does not suck will be fine to race on. Since you have already upgraded to a decent fork, even your current bike will do you fine. If you have only been riding for a short time, the difference between an entry level and mid range bike is going to be pretty meaningless in terms of your racing results.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  17. #17
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    got you. =) thanks alot for feedback. definitely i will put goblin on my next bike to be. cheers

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