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  1. #1
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    good evening guys. i have difficulty understanding the "t" and numbers. im planning to change my worn out chain ring. i have a 2013 trance x2. i want to make sure i get the right part and understanding what im getting. thanks

  2. #2
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    "T" refers to the number of teeth on the front chainrings or rear cogs. What are you looking to replace? How do you feel your setup worked for you?

  3. #3
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    the big ring on front gear seemed to be worn out. since i purchased this bike used locally like 3 weeks ago. bike is awesome, did some climbing that ive never done before. its just that i can tell that its a bit worn out, in fact i already ordered a new chain for the bike. i was thinking of changing the front ring.

  4. #4
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    Are you looking to replace just that ring, or go to a single ring system? How many teeth? It should say on the ring somewhere...anywhere from 22-38 or so. What cranks are you running?

  5. #5
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    i see sram crank, 2x10 38t 104 bcd. thats all i see

  6. #6
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    Pretty easy to replace. Lots of companies make rings that will work as a replacement. Sounds like you just want a replacement, not a change in size, right?

  7. #7
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    that is right?
    is this a good solid replacement?
    Blackspire Downhill Chainring | Blackspire | Brand | www.PricePoint.com

  8. #8
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    what benefits do i get if i go from 38 t going to 34 t?

  9. #9
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    No, that ring doesn't have ramped teeth. You'll have a hard time shifting to and from a ring with no ramps. Keep looking, I'll look too.

    I can't think of a single benefit of using a 34t big ring on a 2x system. You lose top end and gain nothing on the low end.

  10. #10
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    now i have to search for that ramped teeth. bikes got plenty of parts huh

  11. #11
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    Blackspire is a good company. I think their superpro is their ramped chainring.

    Yep - so much gear. This whole forum is pretty much dedicated to parts and gear.

  12. #12
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    anything you recommend playing around $50-$75?

  13. #13
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    Here ya go. Shimano XT, good price: http://www.bikebling.com/Shimano-XT-...-y1ml98020.htm

  14. #14
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    help explain 34t,36t etc


  15. #15
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    wow, thanks for your help! repped!

  16. #16
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    No prob!

  17. #17
    Formerly of Kent
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    Unless you've been slamming your chainrings into every rock and log in sight, or you've been riding several hundred miles a day in those three weeks, you haven't worn it out.

    Adjusting your gearing to suit your riding style and terrain, ok, I get that. But you haven't worn your chainrings out.
    Death from Below.
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  18. #18
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    help explain 34t,36t etc

    He bought it used. Could very well be worn.

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    the guy that i bought it from do alot of downhill and jumping i guess, he switched to 26 inch down hill bike. i might be wrong that my chain ring is worn out, i should take photos. but i know im changing the chains. i will post tomorow

  20. #20
    Formerly of Kent
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    Quote Originally Posted by scvkurt03 View Post
    He bought it used. Could very well be worn.
    Ah. You are correct. I did not see that post.

    My apologies!
    Death from Below.
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  21. #21
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    Usually, a good sign that the chain ring is worn by looking at it (and you will get used to that every time you clean your bike). Do the teeth look "sharp" or are there plenty of "rounded" ones?
    If the person before you used the bike for downhill, chances are they didn't pedal much. They could have bent the front ring or smashed it on rocks.
    Most bikes, the rear goes out first, then the front.
    Chains also stretch.
    Unfortunately, putting a new chain on a really well used rear cassette and worn out used chainring can give you even more problems.

    Recommendations:
    Replace your chain
    Replace your chain ring if it looks worn
    Think about replacing your rear cassette if it looks in bad shape.

    As you put a whole lot of miles on your bike, change the chain before everything else gets too worn out. The chain is cheap and will save the rest of your transmission.

  22. #22
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    How did you isolate it to your front ring? Was your chain slipping? Did you check the cassette? I know you mentioned getting a new chain and that's a good start. This may be a good time to get a bash guard if you don't already have one.
    Let's make like a Bike and get the Huck outta here...

  23. #23
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    OP: Without meaning to be rude, as it's not my intent. Are your cross chaining? using big ring at the front and big cog at the back.

  24. #24
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    i slip on last ride while going pretty fast on bumps and rocks, a little bit of speed and i want to pedal more, i notice that im slipping, to the point of the chain bump to smaller ring (front) without me shifting it. im still a newbie, i have 60 rides under my belt well over 350 miles on 4 months run, i can tell the difference on my hartail and this one in terms of pedalling. i usually use biggest ring on front and 3rd biggest on the back (i dnt shift on rear since i refuse to learn! lol i just feel the bike) i need to learn more

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by In-Yo-Grill View Post
    How did you isolate it to your front ring? Was your chain slipping? Did you check the cassette? I know you mentioned getting a new chain and that's a good start. This may be a good time to get a bash guard if you don't already have one.
    how do i do that? i dnt want to eliminate my granny gear since i was able to climb steep hills i never done before, learning to use it

  26. #26
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    It's probably a whole lot easier to merely take your bike to a bike shop, pay $10 to $45 to:
    -- Listen to the shop
    -- Learning to understand problems
    -- Learn Wear and tear
    -- Learn adjustments

    Money well spent - and something you need to learn (sooner rather than later)
    After learning, watch a few videos online about drivetrain. It's actually more fun after seeing it in person.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaflash View Post
    It's probably a whole lot easier to merely take your bike to a bike shop, pay $10 to $45 to:
    -- Listen to the shop
    -- Learning to understand problems
    -- Learn Wear and tear
    -- Learn adjustments

    Money well spent - and something you need to learn (sooner rather than later)
    After learning, watch a few videos online about drivetrain. It's actually more fun after seeing it in person.
    good point as well, i was an auto mechanic for 5 years and deal with crazy stuffs on cars. sometimes its easier to hear and watch to people that has experience in it than the bigger ego. =) or used the $40 to add on the chain ring. =) i'll take photos later as soon as i get back from the gym.=)

  28. #28
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    If you are into XC riding, you'd probably want to stay away from the gym - unless it's for Yoga. Go ride your bike and have more fun breathing fresh air. CHEERS!

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by thrash_273 View Post
    what benefits do i get if i go from 38 t going to 34 t?
    I'm not sure if anybody ever answered this question, but with all this talk you should understand the basics of gearing and "gear inches". Do a search and read up.

    In its simplist form, the more teeth you have on your front ring (chainring), and the less teeth you have on your rear cog, the higher (harder to pedal) the gearing is going to be. The opposite, less teeth on front chainring and more teeth on cog makes it lower gear (easier to pedal).

    For example, on my Singlespeed 29er, I have a 33t Chainring and 18t cog. So to calculate gear inches, you'd use this formula:

    (chainring tooth/cogtooth)*wheelsize
    (33/18)*29 = 53.17 gear inches

    If I were to get a chainring with fewer teeth, and a cog with more teeth, it would lower my gearing (make it easier to pedal).

    Note that I'm writing this from singlespeeders point of view, but the same thing applies as you shift through the options of gears on your 2x10 bike.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZmyDust View Post
    I'm not sure if anybody ever answered this question, but with all this talk you should understand the basics of gearing and "gear inches". Do a search and read up.

    In its simplist form, the more teeth you have on your front ring (chainring), and the less teeth you have on your rear cog, the higher (harder to pedal) the gearing is going to be. The opposite, less teeth on front chainring and more teeth on cog makes it lower gear (easier to pedal).

    For example, on my Singlespeed 29er, I have a 33t Chainring and 18t cog. So to calculate gear inches, you'd use this formula:

    (chainring tooth/cogtooth)*wheelsize
    (33/18)*29 = 53.17 gear inches

    If I were to get a chainring with fewer teeth, and a cog with more teeth, it would lower my gearing (make it easier to pedal).

    Note that I'm writing this from singlespeeders point of view, but the same thing applies as you shift through the options of gears on your 2x10 bike.
    wow... thanks for explaining! repped!

  31. #31
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    cross fingers. i hoped i dn't have to replace it.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails help explain 34t,36t etc-photo-13-.jpg  

    help explain 34t,36t etc-photo-12-.jpg  

    help explain 34t,36t etc-photo-14-.jpg  

    help explain 34t,36t etc-photo-15-.jpg  

    help explain 34t,36t etc-photo-16-.jpg  


  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaflash View Post
    If you are into XC riding, you'd probably want to stay away from the gym - unless it's for Yoga. Go ride your bike and have more fun breathing fresh air. CHEERS!
    no can't do. i do alot of mud runs/obstacle course that requires upper body strength. trust me, im hooked on mtb. =D dropped 10 lbs, and my strength increase as well. had a bad accident last 2006 that broke both of my femur(left in 3 pieces) and C3, and by gods grace here i am today. =D so mtb, lift/cross fit, marathon is my game. =D

  33. #33
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    Re: help explain 34t,36t etc

    Quote Originally Posted by akaflash View Post
    If you are into XC riding, you'd probably want to stay away from the gym - unless it's for Yoga. Go ride your bike and have more fun breathing fresh air. CHEERS!
    Actually weight training can be very beneficial for xc riders. Just don't go in there and train like a bodybuilder.... its possible to gain strength without gaining a bunch of mass

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta

  34. #34
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    Re: help explain 34t,36t etc

    http://www.wolftoothcycling.com/pages/gear-charts

    OP - this chart will help with your gearing choices

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8iking VIIking View Post
    Gear Charts | wolftoothcomponents.com

    OP - this chart will help with your gearing choices

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 4 Beta
    i appreciate that table. i have to do more studying on this stuff for i and numbers dnt get along very well. =) for sure i will keep this reference. =) thanks

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