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  1. #1
    Grip it and rip it.
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Going tubeless with rim tape instead of the rubber rim-strip???

    Hey guys,

    The clowns in my local bike shop ordered me the wrong size Stans tubeless kit, (the all mountain one instead of the XC one)...

    So my options are, either stick with tubes, or try running tubeless using the tape, which I found another shop has the right size of.

    I have a 24 hour race over the weekend and was hoping to have it all sorted by now, didn't need this hassle!

    Anyone's thoughts on my best option please???

    Thanks.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional"

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  2. #2
    Grip it and rip it.
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    They are DT rims btw.
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional"

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  3. #3
    Viva la Vida!
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    Gettho tubless for the race then get the right size tape later.
    We do not stop playing because we grow old;
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  4. #4
    Grip it and rip it.
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    How do you get the valve to seal properly on the rim when using the tape?
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional"

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  5. #5
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    Go ghetto tubeless.

    Take a 20 inch presta tube and split it lengthwise, opposite the valve.

    I used that on one of my bikes. Works great.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damitletsride! View Post
    How do you get the valve to seal properly on the rim when using the tape?
    Did you buy valves when you bought the tape? If not you can cut the presta valves out of an old tube.

    After you put the tape in, make an x with a razor blade in the tape over the hole where the valves go. Put the valves in and screw the lock ring down. It should have a pretty good seal to begin with. The sealant should take care of the rest.

  7. #7
    Grip it and rip it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanjuro View Post
    Go ghetto tubeless.

    Take a 20 inch presta tube and split it lengthwise, opposite the valve.

    I used that on one of my bikes. Works great.
    Could you explain more? Not sure how a 20" tube could fit a 29er.
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  8. #8
    Viva la Vida!
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    Get a 24" tube cut it all around on the outside (opposite side of the valve) place the valve through the hole and lay the tube around the wheel.
    Mount your tire 3/4 of the way put 2 scoops of Stan's fully mount the tire and use an air compressor to air up.
    Make sure to wet the whole tire bead with soapy water for an air tight seal.
    There are tons of videos on YouTube
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  9. #9
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    Just be careful sometimes it looks like the are going to seal good getto style but when you get on the trail and hit stuff kinda hard it will burp air.....what kind of tires do you have

  10. #10
    Grip it and rip it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by gaintanthemx29 View Post
    Just be careful sometimes it looks like the are going to seal good getto style but when you get on the trail and hit stuff kinda hard it will burp air.....what kind of tires do you have
    Maxxis Ikon and Maxxis Aspen.
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  11. #11
    Grip it and rip it.
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    Is the ghetto style better than using tape?
    "Pain is inevitable, suffering is optional"

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  12. #12
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    like i said it may work fine but some times it doesn't i have maxxis ardent 2.4 tire they work great but i have stand strips but if you need to do a race coming up i wouldn't want to risk it

  13. #13
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    Best option: Use tape. Stan's is OK but you get 10 yards for $14 bucks. 3M strapping tape is better AND is $4.75 for 50 yards...It is blue ...

  14. #14
    Viva la Vida!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luv2mtbike View Post
    Best option: Use tape. Stan's is OK but you get 10 yards for $14 bucks. 3M strapping tape is better AND is $4.75 for 50 yards...It is blue ...
    I wish I knew I just bought a roll of Stans tape.
    Does the 3M really work as well as the STANS tape?
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  15. #15
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    I would not say that it is better. Remember one thing, Stan did not create the sealant or tape. He used what was already available with minor changes. The tape he has is just Tensilized polypropylene strapping tape. Been around for years....He just made it yellow and gives you much less of it. It is hard to question the quality of the 3M/Scotch brand tape. They can mass produce it for cheaper...it is exactly the same as Stan's. But for 1/3 the price and 5 times the amount......I go with 3m.

  16. #16
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    I just use Gorilla Duct Tape. Cheap. Bomber. Pretty much idiot-proof to set up. Never budges.

    Side note: If the course is at all rugged, the Aspen is a little bit on the light duty end of things for tubeless conversion, at least for my tastes. YMMV!
    Whining is not a strategy.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damitletsride! View Post
    Hey guys,

    The clowns in my local bike shop ordered me the wrong size Stans tubeless kit, (the all mountain one instead of the XC one)...

    So my options are, either stick with tubes, or try running tubeless using the tape, which I found another shop has the right size of.

    I have a 24 hour race over the weekend and was hoping to have it all sorted by now, didn't need this hassle!

    Anyone's thoughts on my best option please???

    Thanks.
    Do not use anything for a race that you have not tested and sorted.

    Stay with tubes.

    Muck around with conversions later, if you must.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  18. #18
    bt
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Do not use anything for a race that you have not tested and sorted.

    Stay with tubes.

    Muck around with conversions later, if you must.

    gosh i was hoping someone would post this ^^

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by bt View Post
    gosh i was hoping someone would post this ^^
    +1 ^

    And after the race, use Gorilla tape, it is the best solution IMHO.

    Plus G-tape has about 1.9million other uses around the home.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Do not use anything for a race that you have not tested and sorted.
    My thoughts exactly...

    You think it's a hassle right now...wait till you have to deal with a problem during the race because you hastily set it up right before the race.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by shiggy View Post
    Do not use anything for a race that you have not tested and sorted.

    Stay with tubes.

    Muck around with conversions later, if you must.
    Never try out something new at a race. Work the bugs out first before you race on it. It would suck to roll up to the starting gate with flat tires becuase something was wrong with your conversion. LIke shiggy said stay with tubes until you test your tubeless out.

  22. #22
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    I'm not familiar with the dt rims but the rubber rimstrips are a must for non tubeless rims otherwise you will have a blowout, which is much more dangerous than a pinchflat. Without a tubeless beadhook on the rim there is nothing to lock the tire bead in place, this is where the rimstrip comes into play. Ghetto tubeless works ok but as was said you will occasionally burp with lower pressures. With a real tubeless rim you most likely can use only tape.

  23. #23
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    so whats better?
    3m tape ?

    or 20 "tube?

  24. #24
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    A economical rim tape is electricians tape - 2 tightly stretched wraps. For 99 cents you can wrap 4 29er rims. It works - I run tubeless on both my hardtail & fs 29er bikes using Stan's sealant & the electrical tape with no problems.

  25. #25
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    Going tubeless with rim tape instead of the rubber rim-strip???

    Quote Originally Posted by jiw71 View Post
    A economical rim tape is electricians tape - 2 tightly stretched wraps. For 99 cents you can wrap 4 29er rims. It works - I run tubeless on both my hardtail & fs 29er bikes using Stan's sealant & the electrical tape with no problems.
    What kind of rims?

  26. #26
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    One thing to consider when using tape instead of a tubeless rim strip: the tape has to be strong enough to serve as a rim strip should you need to put in a tube. I don't know that I'd trust electricians tape. As an alternative, I've used fiberglass-reinforced strapping tape for the last few years, no problems at all. Heck, I even use it as rim tape in the few wheels I still run tubes in. Easier/lighter/less expensive than Velox or any other commercial rim tape.

  27. #27
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    Going tubeless with rim tape instead of the rubber rim-strip???

    Quote Originally Posted by mudge View Post
    One thing to consider when using tape instead of a tubeless rim strip: the tape has to be strong enough to serve as a rim strip should you need to put in a tube. I don't know that I'd trust electricians tape. As an alternative, I've used fiberglass-reinforced strapping tape for the last few years, no problems at all. Heck, I even use it as rim tape in the few wheels I still run tubes in. Easier/lighter/less expensive than Velox or any other commercial rim tape.
    I've been running electrical tape as rim tape on a set of wheels and they've been fine - I use them with tubes and I think I did two layers.

  28. #28
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    hey, no arguing with success!

  29. #29
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    bontrager tlr

  30. #30
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    You have been lucky using black tape, there are so many manufactures and QC is different for each. Also, by design, black tape is not water proof, it is not supposed to be as water and electricity do not mix well. So, instead of black tape, use one wrap of Gorilla tape. Been using it since 2007, and rim type doesn't matter.

  31. #31
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    Glad that you like and use gorilla tape with no issues. I'm also glad that I use electrical vinyl tape without issues. Happy riding!

  32. #32
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    Check out the videos on Stans No tubes web site for installation, lots of good tips, esp. for tough conversions.

  33. #33
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    Is it recommended to get tubless tires to do a conversion with a non-tubeless rim?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by toot334455 View Post
    Is it recommended to get tubless tires to do a conversion with a non-tubeless rim?
    For mtb, almost anything can be made to work (within reason). A tubeless-ready tire will be easier to convert as the bead is designed differently than a typical bead, but that doesn't mean a non-TLR tire won't work.

    For road bikes, you can make most rims work but you absolutely must use tubeless-specific tires. The reason is that the bead on a normal tire won't handle the higher pressure without blowing off the rim, whereas a TLR bead will lock in just fine.

  35. #35
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    Ah, the area around the bead on my current tires aren't as smooth as new ones and I am also going to need to invest in a pair pretty here soon as well.
    Im looking at these
    WTB Weirwolf TCS Tubeless Folding Tire | WTB | Brand | www.PricePoint.com

  36. #36
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    The ghetto tubeless setup with the gorilla tape 1" , presta valves and stan's sealant has worked for me. I bought the tape at AutoZone while I was there $2.95. Walmart has it as well. The presta's out of some used tubes $0. I pack them away when it's a slow leak figuring I'll fix it one day. And the stan's on Amazon $14.50ish. $20 and done. Read several forums gleaning this info. Here's the setup I used with their explanation.

    Tech How-To: Ghetto Tubeless for Mountain Bikes | Singletracks Mountain Bike Blog

    Put it all together...tape, valve and tire on rim and inflated first. It held the air for 5 minutes. Then pulled the bead out a bit and added Stan's special sauce and did the shake move a couple times. Money well spent. My rims a tires were tubeless compatible.

    6/5/2013 Progress update.
    I'm sold on ghetto tubeless. I did the Gorilla Tape version from the link above and have been riding alot of rocky trails with perfect results. I have added air before a few rides as I'm pretty particular about my setup. However can't say enough about going tubeless and doing it in this fashion. Strava shows 272 miles and 30,000 vertical feet climbed in the Utah Rockies since the change and not one flat or burp or moment lost messing with my bike on the trail.
    Last edited by DPeper; 06-05-2013 at 10:07 AM. Reason: update

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