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  1. #1
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    Getting a new fork 15mm QR or 9mm QR?

    Found a deal on a Manitou Tower Pro, wo ill be getting that as soon as I figure which I should get. I currently have a 9mm QR wheel, but considering the price of the fork I am considering upgrading to a 15mm QR. Is it worth the additional cost of the wheel or should I stick with 9mmQR. Its a solid wheel, with stans rim


  2. #2
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    How much do you weigh, what type of riding do you do? Super aggressive or trails, xc racing..? I am a physically larger rider and prefer the 15. Not an engineer though so I have never bench tested specific stiffness of 9 to 15. I just listen to others that say 15 increases stiffness. Ok, I buy that and stay with 15. All new trail bikes have 15 or 20.
    Some really light xc bikes still are 9mm like the spec epic, but they use oversize adapters to stiffen up the basic 9 system. Personally, I would convert to a 15 if buying a new fork.
    Now what size wheel 26, 27.5, 29?

  3. #3
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    If the hub can convert get 15. It's much better and 9mm fork resale is horrible these days.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    If the hub can convert get 15. It's much better and 9mm fork resale is horrible these days.
    +1. I built up a 29er with a Tower early in the year and went with the 15mm (converted Chris King 9mm hub). Fork has been great.

  5. #5
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    I'll personally never use a QR, front or rear, on a mountain bike again. It a road bike throwback. The hub is kept in the dropout with QR clamp pressure forcing the knurled end into the fork/frame. A road bike only has downward force on the dropout. A mountain bike not so much. Definitely get the QR15 especially if you can change your hub.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    I'll personally never use a QR, front or rear, on a mountain bike again. It a road bike throwback. The hub is kept in the dropout with QR clamp pressure forcing the knurled end into the fork/frame. A road bike only has downward force on the dropout. A mountain bike not so much. Definitely get the QR15 especially if you can change your hub.
    Up to ~100mm travel fork or so, I don't mind QR front though they are definitely out of vogue these days. I run a Halo bolt-on skewer for my Niner steel fork and it definitely does a better job than a plain old QR.

    Getting a consistent fit with through axles is definitely an improvement for mountain bikes and anything new I'm building is habbin it

  7. #7
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    This is what mountain bike axles should look like.

    Getting a new fork 15mm QR or 9mm QR?-img_2473.jpg
    Getting a new fork 15mm QR or 9mm QR?-img_2482.jpg
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  8. #8
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    QR is fine for a road bike but has makes little sense for a mtn bike. I purchased a Manitou Tower Expert (QR only) and spent a day riding on it before I swapped to 20mm lowers. I didn't feel like I was riding a flexy noodle but every small jump or drop had me wondering if that 5mm QR was still tight or not. So from a peace of mind /safety standpoint thru axle is king.

  9. #9
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    I have a 2012 Salsa Spearfish 2 and it has a 15mm front thru axle. I love it and wish that my rear skewer was a 15mm thru axle instead of a 9mm. The increased stiffness is noticeable.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by onpaperwings View Post
    I have a 2012 Salsa Spearfish 2 and it has a 15mm front thru axle. I love it and wish that my rear skewer was a 15mm thru axle instead of a 9mm. The increased stiffness is noticeable.
    Your rear axle may be a 10mm. but it's not a 9mm. which is the size of front QR axles.

    Depending what hub you have you may be able to use a 10mm. through bolt like mine pictured above. It's essentially a 10mm. steel bolt. The axle is the threaded part that sticks out halfway into the dropout. The QR skewer itself is 5mm.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  11. #11
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    Getting a new fork 15mm QR or 9mm QR?

    Quote Originally Posted by kdirk View Post
    Found a deal on a Manitou Tower Pro, wo ill be getting that as soon as I figure which I should get. I currently have a 9mm QR wheel, but considering the price of the fork I am considering upgrading to a 15mm QR. Is it worth the additional cost of the wheel or should I stick with 9mmQR. Its a solid wheel, with stans rim

    I have a Tower Pro 120 QR. Use QR hubs/skewers f&r. No issues. The fork/wheel stiffness feels little different from the Minute 100 20mmTA I use to have.
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  12. #12
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    I placed an order for the 15mm, 100mm travel... now I have to get a 15mm hub.

    I was thinking the SRAM x9 hub, DT Swiss 350, or maybe spend a bit more and get the Hope Pro Evo 2. Any other recommendations? I want something low cost, but quality.

  13. #13
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    The Hope has stainless bearings- a plus.
    Another option is the Novatech D711. 40 on ebay and 139g. But you have to track down the 15mm endcaps.
    Wiggle has Hope pro 2 Evo with an ArchEx or FlowEx for 151. They at times may also have a discount code.
    wiggle.com | Hope Hoops Pro2 Evo MTB Front Wheel | MTB Wheels

  14. #14
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    Re: Getting a new fork 15mm QR or 9mm QR?

    15mm for sure

    Sent from my GT-N7105T using Tapatalk 2

  15. #15
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    To the OP, I'd definitely say go for the 15mm version and IF your front hub does not use sealed, pressed in bearings and cannot be converted and you're getting a new hub, then get the Hope Pro2 EVO, changing the end caps (which is how you change axle configuration) takes all of a minute or so. Another option is the NukeProof Generator front hub, it does 15mm and QR very easy as well and is a bit cheaper than the Hope. I have both, had my Pro2 for nearly 5 years now and it could do with some new bearings, but that's about it, had the NP for about 5 months and am very pleased with it (also got a rear from them and like it also, got both in their yellow).

    Sorry Ronnie, have to politely disagree, that Manitou axle system sucks and is a royal PITA to setup/remove-install wheel, much prefer the Maxle type system, save that sort of axle for maybe DH and FR.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    This is what mountain bike axles should look like.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Sorry Ronnie, have to politely disagree, that Manitou axle system sucks and is a royal PITA to setup/remove-install wheel, much prefer the Maxle type system, save that sort of axle for maybe DH and FR.
    Hi LyNx, My post was a bit tongue in cheek. As you know that shot is a few years old and that 20mm. is all but denigrated by the manufacturers to freeride and downhill. I just wanted to demonstrate that a mountain bike wheel should be securely locked in place. Also, the only time I seem to remove the wheel is to change tires which is not too often. There is no setup involved once you know how to do it. It just takes a few minutes more.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  17. #17
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    Yeah, don't see 20mm TA on anything I look at these days, just 15mm, but then again I don't look at anything really that's not 29er or about 150mm travel. I dunno, mine used to give a bit of trouble, but also was the older Pro2 hub I think, had to get it set just right or you'd get the slightest play. Also was a PITA to have so many nuts to undo if you needed to remove your wheel to transport your bike or for any other reason.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    Hi LyNx, My post was a bit tongue in cheek. As you know that shot is a few years old and that 20mm. is all but denigrated by the manufacturers to freeride and downhill. I just wanted to demonstrate that a mountain bike wheel should be securely locked in place. Also, the only time I seem to remove the wheel is to change tires which is not too often. There is no setup involved once you know how to do it. It just takes a few minutes more.
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  18. #18
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    Biggest difference is "MARKETING" period.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by chizler62 View Post
    Biggest difference is "MARKETING" period.
    By A, B or C reasons, qr15 is the way to go at the very end
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chizler62 View Post
    Biggest difference is "MARKETING" period.
    Just wondering, is this an opinion directed at the differences between 9 and 15? Or 15 and 20?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    Your rear axle may be a 10mm. but it's not a 9mm. which is the size of front QR axles.

    Depending what hub you have you may be able to use a 10mm. through bolt like mine pictured above. It's essentially a 10mm. steel bolt. The axle is the threaded part that sticks out halfway into the dropout. The QR skewer itself is 5mm.
    Did this make it stiffer than a standard QR setup?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Did this make it stiffer than a standard QR setup?
    Can't really say. I built the bike with a through bolt hub and have never tried it any other way. As I think I said, I won't use a QR on a mountain bike. Think about it though. A QR clamps the ends of the hub to the inside of the frame with a 5mm. flexible rod tightened with a cam. The Axle itself extends a few millimeters into the dropout. The 10mm. through bolt goes from the outside of the frame on both sides and Shimano says to torque it to 35 - 45Nm. so it aint going anywhere.
    The trouble with having an open mind is that people will insist on trying to put things in it.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
    Your rear axle may be a 10mm. but it's not a 9mm. which is the size of front QR axles.

    Depending what hub you have you may be able to use a 10mm. through bolt like mine pictured above. It's essentially a 10mm. steel bolt. The axle is the threaded part that sticks out halfway into the dropout. The QR skewer itself is 5mm.
    Thanks for the clarification. Good to learn as a newbie.

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