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  1. #1
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    front tyre choice! light and versatile nobby nic vs wildgrip'r vs purgatory

    salut à tous,
    Hi everyone,

    1/ I have a specialized epic comp alu 2014 with roval sl carbons rims.

    I'm looking to change my front tyre from a fast trac swork 2.00 to a most complete tyre with dry, hardpack and loose condition.
    I want a 700 gr tyre maximum.


    2/ I'd like to find a tyre for improve the handling of my mtb without being too heavy.




    3/ I stop my choice between 3 tyre


    * schwalbe nobby nic snake skin 29x2,25 (mesured at 2,15 in a french mtb's magazine) of around 650 gr






    * michelin wildgrip'r 2,00 advanced or 2,10 classic , the 2,25 is too heavy.

    there is a big difference between an advanced and a classic tyre?


    I see that the 2.00 model has 54a and 59a gum but the 2,25 has a different gum (55a)
    the gum of the 2,00 model is good as a front tyre?





    * my last choice is a specialized purgatory 2,3 (2.2 in the french mtb's magazine) but only in the sworks model because of the weigth of the tyre.

    who has sworks purgatory model on his bike and I'd like to know if its too risky?






    thanks for your help and sorry for my english!

  2. #2
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    Reputation: AndrwSwitch's Avatar
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    Get over the weight thing for a second. Dry and loose is all about volume IMO. So I think you should be looking for the widest tire that will fit your fork and come with a XC casing.

    Moving back to weight for a second, I like my Nobby Nic but I don't think the tread pattern does anything for me on dry hardpack. The Rocket Ron is lighter. You could do something like the Ralph too, but it's heavier and Schwalbe says it's slower, so I see it as more of a rear tire for getting a little more wear life. But it shows you where I'm going with tread type for dry conditions.

    The same width and tread tire often weighs a lot less in a lighter casing, and if you give up sidewall protection and puncture protection.

    Do you use tubes?
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  3. #3
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    I use tubeless.

    in a french mtb's magazine they test tyre for mixed condition and the nobby nic was rated 9/10 specially as a front tyre and the rocket 8/10 but more as a rear tyre.

    for you the nobby nic is good in mixed conditions?

  4. #4
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    Anton Cooper won the US Cup XC race at Fontana CA last month in conditions that may be similar to yours.
    At the end of the race Anton is interviewed and talks about his tires. They are Thunder Burt 2.25 snakeskins. Light and very fast rolling.



    Want more traction climbing and cornering out of them with very controlled washout with a much higher threshold?
    Mount them on 30mm inside dimension rims.

  5. #5
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    You said "dry, hardpack and loose." To me, mixed would imply some mud too. I think that's when a bigger, chunkier tread like the Nobby Nic becomes useful. Otherwise, it's just more weight and rolling resistance.

    I like my Nobby Nic in mixed conditions, yes, but it's on a bike I only ride for fun. I don't think it's a great choice for racing unless I expect mud.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  6. #6
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    yes you're right. I'm not racing I'm looking for a tyre for xc trail.

    I find this

    Pneus VTT: Matrices Modèles / Pratique / Terrain Schwalbe ? Cycle Tyres Direct


    that's why I was thinking the nobby nic, the wildgrip'r or the purgatory sworks.

  7. #7
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    I get a big kick out of race gear. Bikes, skis, whatever. I like that someone put some thought into making it as good as it can be for a specific, well-defined job. For mountain bike tires, that's getting me around a race course in as little time as possible, given certain conditions. Sometimes there are some sacrifices that mess with race tires for non-race use, like maybe they wear fast. But you're already talking about the most expensive clinchers on the market. And you're putting them on a very expensive, race-oriented mountain bike. So it seems like probably giving up a few miles of wear life isn't that big a deal for you.

    You say it's for dry conditions, from hardpack to loose.

    Frankly, if you can't ride a slick tire or even a road bike on hardpack, you suck. Whatever tire you get, it will be fine on hardpack. Although big knobs will slow you down some.

    Loose and dry is difficult. I don't think the tread actually helps much. Stuff just rolls around too easily. But I think having a really big contact patch helps. And if your loose and dry is like my loose and dry, you probably want to have some sidewall protection, especially since you're not using tubes.

    So I think the answer is a high-volume tire without too big a tread. The Nobby Nic has a pretty aggressive tread for XC, and that rubber adds weight, which you also mentioned. That's why I think for the conditions you describe, the Racing Ralph or Rocket Ron might be a better choice. Truth be told, I haven't tried the Ralph on the front - I like a little more tread than that on a front tire. But I don't need as much as the Nic if it's not muddy.

    Right now, I'm riding a set of Conti X-King 2.4s. I wasn't too stoked on them at first, but since my trails are drying out, I'm really enjoying them. Good volume, fast tread. That's what I'm talking about. Mine are the ProTection model, which is some of why they're really heavy, but should be good for not getting sidewall cuts or punctures. Not that punctures matter anymore, but I hadn't gone tubeless when I ordered them.

    In Specialized, maybe the wider-casing version of the Fast Trak would work better for you.

    Basically, it doesn't make sense to me that after saying you're worried about weight and your riding conditions where it doesn't help, you're looking at tires with big treads.
    "Don't buy upgrades; ride up grades." -Eddy Merckx

  8. #8
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    Michelin Wild Grip'r Advanced, 2.25", weighs 760 grams. Actual tread width on a 21.5mm rim is 2.21".

  9. #9
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    thanks AndrwSwitch for the advice.

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