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  1. #1
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    Fox F29RL fork travel change

    So I took my Fox 29er fork apart the other night, the one that came on my '08 Paragon. I wanted to see if I could change the travle to 100mm. I don't see any of the "spacers" that are mentioned by others here on the board and in the manual (the ones I'm not supposed to take out). That being said, I don't see a manual on Fox's page for the RL model, only the RLC.

    What do you guys think? Is it possible to change with what I have, or could/would I need a new cartridge from Fox?
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  2. #2
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    What does the inside of the other leg look like?


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    So I took my Fox 29er fork apart the other night, the one that came on my '08 Paragon. I wanted to see if I could change the travle to 100mm. I don't see any of the "spacers" that are mentioned by others here on the board and in the manual (the ones I'm not supposed to take out). That being said, I don't see a manual on Fox's page for the RL model, only the RLC.

    What do you guys think? Is it possible to change with what I have, or could/would I need a new cartridge from Fox?
    Is that the damper unit? i.e. isn't the spacer on the air side?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by b1umb0y
    Is that the damper unit? i.e. isn't the spacer on the air side?
    Yep, wrong side.

    Larry
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  5. #5
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    Doh!
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  6. #6
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    And if a recall correctly from working on my 26" Fox's:

    It's not a spacer, it's a machined stop collar that's held in place with a small roll pin.
    Pop out the pin w/ a little punch, slide the collar over to the next hole and re-insert the pin.
    Travel adjusted, no spacers like you find inside a RockShok.

  7. #7
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    I thought the consensus was that they could be converted from 100mm to 80mm but not the other way around? Someone posted an email from a fox tech around here somewhere, but I'm too lazy to search.

  8. #8
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    Well well well, maybe that's the problem then! That is the damper side.

    When I opened up the air side and just saw oil. Is the machined stop collar at the bottom of the leg?

    Yo Paul Revere, it's Matt Day from Fooftown by the way!

  9. #9
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    It is just a spacer. But your fork looks very different than mine.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shishku
    It is just a spacer.
    But where is the spacer exactly? It's not on the damper cartridge in the picture from what I was told above.

    Quote Originally Posted by shishku
    But your fork looks very different than mine.
    My fork also includes the legs & stanchions also, if that's what you mean.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    ...it's Matt Day from Fooftown by the way!
    I remember you...used to ride a Yeti @ Wintergreen. Been awhile.


  12. #12
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    The spacer, is at the bottom of the air side under the oil, pop the lower bolt out, a assembly will fall out, ( if 80mm with C type spacer on the shaft, then a coil thats the negative coil, if 80mm remove spacer it'll let the forks go out further, job done.

    IF you've got the 100mm forks, then you'll need to purchase a spacer thats all, as you won't have 1 with the forks.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    Well well well, maybe that's the problem then! That is the damper side.

    When I opened up the air side and just saw oil. Is the machined stop collar at the bottom of the leg?

    Yo Paul Revere, it's Matt Day from Fooftown by the way!
    What? are all of the Fooftown mafia converting to 29 now?
    Buschetti holding out?

    the spacer thingy you're looking for is down in the fork leg,
    but I'm totally guessing here sort of. In the spring side, you'll
    first see the white plastic piston w/ a bit of heavy oil sitting on
    top of it. Crack the bottom nut loose & push this up outta the
    fork, expect some spooge to drip onto the floor and find a
    clean spot on that crowded workbench. I converted from
    100 to 80 and the shaft had a couple different holes thru it.
    Pop out the roll pin, slide the collar to the next setting and
    press the pin back in place. Instead of a spacer, the stop
    collar itself moved. You're fork may or may not have a spacer,
    or may or not have two positions for the collar. good luck,
    and clean that bench!

    Jack Frost?

  14. #14
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    Per FOX the 80mm cannot be made into a 100mm. The 100mm can be choked down to a 80mm on the "spring side" by adding a spacer..
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    So they've cut the stanchions shorter to save a few grams then, that SUCKS!!

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd
    So they've cut the stanchions shorter to save a few grams then, that SUCKS!!
    Now this is the issue I have been running into as well. I was getting both answers from them and getting nowhere.

    A few weeks back I finally spoke with the guy who actually designed the whole thing. He said A-O-K for converting an 80 up to 100.

    I just got mine on Sunday, and I havent gotten to opening it up yet.

    However, I am already looking for a TALAS donor, Im not sure if it would work, but Im sure gonna try.
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  17. #17
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    How about some pics of some one doing the conversion? My understanding or better yet hope is that the 80 mm can be converted up to the 100mm

  18. #18
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    Before mine came on a Superfly, I verified with Fox Tech Service that the 80 could be converted to 100. The answer was absolutely yes, and the guy was clearly frustrated by the rumor flying around that you could go from 100 to 80, but not the other way. Then I called back two days later, and got the same answer from a different tech.

    Mine showed up, and since I was out of town, my favorite wrench did the conversion. He said it took about 20 minutes, and gave me a little plastic spacer that came out, just in case I ever wanted to go back to 80 mm (never happen).

    Usually I do this stuff myself, but since I didn't this time, I can't comment on exactly how to do it, just that it definitely can be done.
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  19. #19
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    Spacer comes in the box with the 100mm.

  20. #20
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    So what you guys are saying is that the F80 and the F100 are exactly the same forks, just set up differently at the factory?

  21. #21
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    I'll try to get into it tomorrow, and will take some pics for you all. Thanks for the info. It sounds promising; glad to hear it!

    And since I'm a pony I'm going to put on a 20t chainring.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    And since I'm a pony I'm going to put on a 20t chainring.
    chump.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by crux
    How about some pics of some one doing the conversion? My understanding or better yet hope is that the 80 mm can be converted up to the 100mm
    My 80mm was converted to 100mm by the shop I bought it from.

  24. #24
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    So I finally got a chance to open up the Fox F29RL again, this time I had great success (borat voice)!

    If you are going to do this, you need to essentially completely disassemble your fork. To start with, remove all the air out of the left leg. Remove the nuts at the bottom of each leg. After these nuts are off you can lightly tap on the bolt with a mallet to release them and push them into the legs, but have a couple catch pans or cups ready to collect the oil from each leg. There is about 150cc in the right leg, which is quite a bit. See the pic below.
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  25. #25
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    Once all the oil has drained, you can pull the lowers off. You'll probably need to remove your brake caliper or lever at this point as well.

    Once the lowers are off, take the top cap off the left leg (air side). Theres some low viscosity (thick) oil in there. Turn the bike upside down to drain this sludgy oil out.

    Next you can push the piston/spring assembly out, as the picture below shows.
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  26. #26
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    Once the piston/spring stack is removed you'll see the infamous spacer (to the right of my thumb). This plastic spacer has a notch in it and will pop off if you press on it firmly. Before and after pictures are below.

    Since my fork is so new I reused the oil that I carefully collected. I reassembled the piston/spring stack, put the top cap back on, slid the lowers on 90% of the way just enough to allow access to pour the oil back in. I put in 160cc of oil into the right leg. After you put oil back in both legs, put the nuts on and you should have 100mm of travel and ready to ride!

    This is the way I did it, there might be an easier way but I at least gained some insight into how the fork works by doing it this way. You may be able to simply take out the piston/spring stack without taking the lowers completely off thereby avoided removing the oil from the right leg, but I'm not sure.

    Thanks for the help, and good luck if you try it!
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  27. #27
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    Yeah, you can do it without pulling the lowers or draining the damper side. Tap the left side loose, and use something thin (like a wood dowel) to push on the end of the rod from the bottom and push it out the top of the fork.

    Larry
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  28. #28
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    Larry's right....

    Quote Originally Posted by Ventanarama
    Yeah, you can do it without pulling the lowers or draining the damper side. Tap the left side loose, and use something thin (like a wood dowel) to push on the end of the rod from the bottom and push it out the top of the fork.

    Larry
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    Once you do it that way and see how ridiculously simple it is you will kick yourself. It's about a 10 minute job, tops.

  29. #29
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    I'm glad somebody spoke up AFTER I tore the fork apart! Oh well, it's done and I have more travel, which was the goal!

  30. #30
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    nice job guys!

  31. #31
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    Give us a ride report after you have ridden the newly converted fork. Im very interested to see if the increased travel has any effect on handling.

  32. #32
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    I changed mine back in December. I must say that I was not very impressed with the fork in 80mm.......seemed to blow through the travel way too quickly or was too stiff and didn't have enough travel. Now at 100mm the fork feels great It kick the front end up a little, but I adjusted with headset spacer and the stem. I can't say that it really affected the handling. I don't find that it has slowed it down any, and DH's are now a lot faster.

  33. #33
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    Ok have the fork apart (aftermarket version) and took out the spacer and getting ready to bolt it back up for a ride. In reading the Fox user manual on page 269 it is indicating that the 80mm can not be converted, but apparently this is possible on the OE versions. Is there any true difference between the 80 an 100 mm fork besides the spacer? ie length of bushings or sanctions or any other components?


    http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...elpEnglish.pdf

  34. #34
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    I think the rumor of not extending an 80 mm fork comes form the 26er forks where there is a weight difference between the 80 and 100 mm forks. I assume the stantions (and maybe other things?) are shorter on the 80 mm fork to acheive a lighter weight. That doesn't seem to be the case with the F29.

  35. #35
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    I have a 80mm OEM F29 RL fork. On page 276 of the manual under the F29 RL section, the manual clearly states, "An F100 can be lowered in travel to 80 mm, but an F80 cannot be increased to 100 mm."

    http://www.foxracingshox.com/fox_tec...elpEnglish.pdf

    Obviously people are doing it. Has anyone run into issues at all? Or is the section of the manual a "cut and paste" error taken from the 26er section?
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  36. #36
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    I was led to belive that the only real difference is that the 80 fork isnt supplied with the larger sized shim but the 100 fork comes with the smaller shim?


    I have a mate that has converted his to 120mm without any problems. Dont ask me how he did it, I think it envolved using other fox fork inners. It does however flex a bit more than the 100mm...
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  37. #37
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    You can go from 80 to 100 or 100 to 80 with the spacer. At 100 you don't have the spacer installed, at 80 you do. I've been running it for months now and it's been fine. This isn't some kind of sketchy travel mod so there's no reason to worry about it.

    The manual is incorrect and Fox will attest to it (depending on which tech you happen to get).

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    You can go from 80 to 100 or 100 to 80 with the spacer. At 100 you don't have the spacer installed, at 80 you do. I've been running it for months now and it's been fine. This isn't some kind of sketchy travel mod so there's no reason to worry about it.

    The manual is incorrect and Fox will attest to it (depending on which tech you happen to get).
    I have an F29 that I ordered as 80 and converted to 100 myself. I agree with everything you said here and will take it one step further: CALL FOX TECH SUPPORT. The wait is reasonable and the help is outstanding. There was absolute agreement that the F29 CAN go 80 to 100 or 100 to 80 with no problems and the manual is in error. They will either talk you through the conversion over the phone or point you to the odd, out of the way place in another fork's online manual that will get you the info you need to do it yourself. Great support for an excellent fork...

  39. #39
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    Thanks guys!! I'll do the conversion tonight.
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  40. #40
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    I did this on the F29 last week. There is NO pushing out of any pin, or anything the like. You pull the rod assembly out, slide the springs down from the fixed plastic disk, and snap in the 20mm spacer. I went from 100 to 80mm. I had to do this 2x as I was misled by that whole 'push out the pin and move the disk to the other hole' business.

    Thanks for the tip on not having to disassemble the entire fork. Next time, this will take 10mins, tops.

  41. #41
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    This ten minute travel change - do you lose oil - have to add new oil to the fork to accomplish the travel increase or decrease (whichever you are going for)?

  42. #42
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    Okay... I semi-successfully made the conversion from 80 to 100mm. Yes, the spacer is all that needed to be changed. Howver, it's a bit more involved and messy than this post seems to suggest.

    First, when you remove the nut and seal off of the bottom of the leg, oil (Fox Suspension Fluid) will come out. Be prepared to catch it. Next, when you push the air shaft assembly out of the top of the fork, you will loose more oil (Fox Float Fluid). If you are like me you will find that the green Float oil will run down the leg and drip into the container that had caught the yellow Suspension oil, thus contaminating it.

    So the fork is back together, aired up, and poised to give 100mm of travel. However, I need to hit the shop tomorrow and buy more oil before the fork can be ridden.

    10 minutes might be an accurate guess for the 2nd or 3rd time that you do the procedure. Expect it to take longer the first time.
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  43. #43
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    I have had success with this conversion as well, but I was able to go to 120mm by combining the techniques listed in this thread.

    If you remove the plastic spacer and also move the pin-set stop back to the other hole in the stem the shock stretches out to 120mm.

    I don't know if this is recommended, but I did it anyway. My Fisher Rig is TALL now, lol!

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moobsy
    If you remove the plastic spacer and also move the pin-set stop back to the other hole in the stem the shock stretches out to 120mm.

    I don't know if this is recommended, but I did it anyway. My Fisher Rig is TALL now, lol!
    The 120mm F29 is a little heavier due to a beefed up crown on the 120mm version because of the increased torque of the longer legs. If you don't weigh well over 200lbs, your crowns shouldn't have any problems with the increases torque.

  45. #45
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    has anyone tried this with the '09 80mm fork? Same process and results?

  46. #46
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    i assume this changes a to C measurments?

  47. #47
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    Success!

    I had never even owned a suspension fork until this afternoon. Was messy but this thread helped me out a great deal. I also found printing off the tech info from the fox site about changing the travel to be very beneficial.

    I am just wondering about the Fox Suspension Fluid... I caught all that came out, but when I came to put it back in it amounted to about 20ccs of fluid compared to the recommended 30ccs. I assume that a lot of the fluid would have been in the actual leg, it is quite viscous and didn't flow very well. Does anyone think this will be a problem and if so should I top up the fluid?

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    I'm curious if anyone changed the seals during the conversion process? My LBS tech told me that they will probably weep if I don't replace them, but the fork has about 12 hours on it so I can't see it being a problem. Any experiences here?

    Also I picked up suspension fluid and float fluid just incase I need it, is either necessary or if I collect the existing fluids carefully can I gat by with out it?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rensho
    I did this on the F29 last week. There is NO pushing out of any pin, or anything the like. You pull the rod assembly out, slide the springs down from the fixed plastic disk, and snap in the 20mm spacer. I went from 100 to 80mm. I had to do this 2x as I was misled by that whole 'push out the pin and move the disk to the other hole' business.

    Thanks for the tip on not having to disassemble the entire fork. Next time, this will take 10mins, tops.
    Nice memory

  50. #50
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    my experience

    i did this about 2 months ago on a new shox. I did not change my seals, and have had no problems. I captured all the fluid I could (lost at least a few drops) and put it back when i was done, I did not add anything extra and like I said, I have had no problems with the shox.

  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBTM
    has anyone tried this with the '09 80mm fork? Same process and results?
    Here is an e-mail response I recieved from Fox. I asked particularly about an 09 OE Fox F29 on a fisher X-Cal.

    Unlike our standard 29’er forks this particular model is not travel adjustable, do not attempt to travel adjust this fork.


    Joey Avila
    Bicycle CSR/Aftermarket Sales
    Fox Racing Shox
    310 Anna St.
    Watsonville, Ca 95076
    1-800-369-7469 xt 4801
    www.foxracingshox.com

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by -FauxreaL-
    I'm curious if anyone changed the seals during the conversion process? My LBS tech told me that they will probably weep if I don't replace them, but the fork has about 12 hours on it so I can't see it being a problem. Any experiences here?

    Also I picked up suspension fluid and float fluid just incase I need it, is either necessary or if I collect the existing fluids carefully can I gat by with out it?
    If you do this right there is no reason to replace the seals because you do not actually have to take apart the whole fork, you just need to open the air shock side. The seals should never be broken.

    Be careful not to spill fluids all over the seals of course because that may ruin them...

    When I did mine I accidentally got my fluids all mixed together during the draining process. If you have never done this before, chances are the same will happen to you. Be ready for an oil spill type of mess, put some newspaper down, lol. The extra fluid you bought is a good idea, just remember to replace it in appropriate amounts (I forget the exact numbers of cc's, but you can get it on the fox website in their manuals section).

  53. #53
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    Based on this thread and the documented successful conversions from 80mm to 100mm by removing the spacer, while looking for a 100mm F29, I found a F29 OE 80mm fork off ebay and got that assuming I'd find the same spacer as mentioned.

    I just received the fork and spent under 10minutes doing the change yesterday. I've done similar spacer things with Reba forks, so I went in with a lot of upfront knowledge. I did this with the fork off the bike:
    I loosened the bottom 10mm nut and backed it off just past the shaft threads, release air pressure, remove air cap, turn fork upsidedown to let the green float fluid drip out the top into a little cup.
    I then clamped the steerer tube in a bike stand so that the fork was almost but not quite horizontal (with the lower fork legs just a little lower than the upper crown area).
    I then tapped on the nut with a plastic mallet to release the shaft, removed nut and pushed the shaft up and out by pushing on the end with an allen wrench. Having the fork at the slight angle kept the 30 ml's of yellow Suspension fluid trapped in the bottom of the leg, so nothing came out the lower section.
    My fork shaft looked exactly like mld2t's pic in post #26 of this thread, so I popped off the spacer, pushed the shaft back in place, attached the nut, poured the small amount of Float Fluid back on top of the air piston, installed top cap, added air.

    Under 10minutes of work, with no fluid loss or mess.
    Last edited by Whitedog; 01-19-2009 at 05:58 PM.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarryB
    Here is an e-mail response I recieved from Fox. I asked particularly about an 09 OE Fox F29 on a fisher X-Cal.

    Unlike our standard 29’er forks this particular model is not travel adjustable, do not attempt to travel adjust this fork.


    Joey Avila
    Bicycle CSR/Aftermarket Sales
    Fox Racing Shox
    310 Anna St.
    Watsonville, Ca 95076
    1-800-369-7469 xt 4801
    www.foxracingshox.com
    That clears everything up!

  55. #55
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    I'd be interested to hear from a few others who have gone from 80 to 100mm and how it effected the handling of the bike, specifically gf paragon or anything with the same frame. How did it change steep hills, tight switchbacks, twisty singletrack... and what did you do with your set up to account for the change?
    Thanks

  56. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by eebkr12
    I'd be interested to hear from a few others who have gone from 80 to 100mm and how it effected the handling of the bike, specifically gf paragon or anything with the same frame. How did it change steep hills, tight switchbacks, twisty singletrack... and what did you do with your set up to account for the change?
    Thanks
    I did it (80-100) with my '08 Superfly. I found it made the bike more stable in all aspects. Could just be my riding style though but I think it makes the bike ALOT better.
    The fork itself performs and sets up better at 100mm than at 80.

    For how easy it is to do...and then to reverse back (which I doubt you would do) I can't see why you would not do it. It is far less complicated than changing out a chain!

    Whitedog above has explained it best and I like his method of keeping fluid loss/mess to a minimum.

  57. #57
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    I did the conversion last night and it was a breeze. I wasn't overly cautious with saving the fluids since I bought replacements, but it would be easy enough to save it all. The only thing that I could see being a issue is replacing the oil in the bottom. Get your self a small funnel, or make one out of wax paper, or do what I did and use a horse syringe

  58. #58
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    so you can move this fork all the way to 120mm without any problems? without taking the fork apart how can you tell if its 80mm or 100mm?

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by david8613
    so you can move this fork all the way to 120mm without any problems? without taking the fork apart how can you tell if its 80mm or 100mm?
    I don't believe the 80 or 100 can be extended to 120mm; the stanchions are supposedly cut shorter and you would risk not having enough support through the bushings

    An 80mm Fox has about 80mm of stanchion visible and a 100mm Fox has about 100mm visible

  60. #60
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    Nice documentation mld2t. Good pics and walkthrough. All the "experts" popped-up AFTER you did the dirty work!

    Does anyone else find it funny that the 29er community fought and fought for 29in specific fork offsets to address front wheel "trail issues", but yet here you are converting your XC rigs to 100mm of travel? You'd go 120mm if you could, wouldn't you? "Will it affect my handling?" ...I feel like I'm taking crazy pills.

  61. #61
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    i've read this a few times and am a little confused. am i correct in saying this modification (80-100) can't be done on my '09 fisher rig?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by murry
    i've read this a few times and am a little confused. am i correct in saying this modification (80-100) can't be done on my '09 fisher rig?
    The Original Poster has an 08 Paragon with the F80RL 29 fork, same spec'd fork as your 09 Rig. The F29 fork I got off ebay was an 80mm OE fork from a Fisher 29er. If you follow my guideline above, you can find out real quick if your fork can be mod'd. If you can see the black spacer that the Original Poster shows in the pics in the middle of the thread, then yes, the modification can be done on your fork. Just pop the spacer off the shaft.

  63. #63
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    I extended the travel to 100mm on my 09 rig when I added the remote lock-out.

  64. #64
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    I just did it today to my 09 Paragon.

    Never messed with anything on my bikes like this before. I usually take it to my LBS for everything. It litterally took me like ten minutes. I am liking the bike even more with that extra bit of travel.

  65. #65
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    Converted my f29 to 100mm ages ago, no probs, I re-used the old oil too. 80mm was being blown through too easily, 100mm raises the front of the bike a bit but the fork works far better now.

  66. #66
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    How about 100mm to 120mmm conversion?

    I've got a new Mach 429 on the way and am interested in increasing the travel on it's F29 RLC FIT. Anybody here done this?
    Thanks!

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    Good stuff in this thread. I plan to increase the travel on my F29 from 80mm to 100mm next time I service the fork. Those that did the modification from 80mm to 100mm, can anyone comment on how the fork rode before and after? Was steering slower?

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    Likewise, who has done the reverse?

    I have mine set at 80mm and have never seen full travel.
    Which makes me hold back going to 100mm as it may simply change the bike's handling and personality, maybe for the worse.

    Are you changing to 100mm for specific reasons, or simply to try a 100mm travel fork where once it was 80mm - just because you can?

    Not much I ride really demands 100mm of travel, but I am curious, that's my reason for possibly doing this!

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogsloweverywhere
    Likewise, who has done the reverse?

    I have mine set at 80mm and have never seen full travel.
    Which makes me hold back going to 100mm as it may simply change the bike's handling and personality, maybe for the worse.

    Are you changing to 100mm for specific reasons, or simply to try a 100mm travel fork where once it was 80mm - just because you can?

    Not much I ride really demands 100mm of travel, but I am curious, that's my reason for possibly doing this!

    Reasons to go from 80mm to 100mm travel :-

    @25% more travel with a plusher feel.
    5mm's higher BB height so less pedal strikes but slight balance issues at low speed.
    1degree ish slacker angles, so slower steering, more stable at speed, weight further back.
    5mm's more sag to extend into dips

    And if you get 75mm's travel, then you'll likely get 93mm's travel with a similar setup


    I'd change any bike from 80mm to 100mm ASAP, I did try my Reba SL in 80mm mode for abit, it's sooo much plusher in 100mm mode, 80 doesn't feel like it's doing anything ( it is ) and 100mm does in short.

    DO IT!!

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    CONFIRMED by Fox...

    I have a FOX F29 RL 80mm fork (white G2) that came on an 09 X-cal. I've had numerous problems with the lock-out lever malfunctioning. What happens, is that the lever is supposed to rotate from 11:00 o'clock (open,) to around 5:00 o'clock (closed.) My fork keeps stopping at around 1-2 o'clock even after I've had it serviced.

    Fox had my shock for a week and a half last week trying to fix the problem. I got it back wednesday only for the lever to get stuck again at 2 o'clock. It was rotating fully to 5 o'clock when I got it back from Fox. WTF? I noticed that the problem had reoccurred after only my 1st ride - post Fox service. In addition, I noticed that the shock was leaking fluid down the side of one leg. Wasn't doing that before Fox got a hold of it. My guess is that they took it apart and didn't reseal it properly. Any ideas on why these issues keep happening?

    Resolution: In the end, Fox did agree to give me a new fork, but only after an hour of pleading my case. They wanted me to send my shock back for another week and a half so they could "fix" it again. I told them that I had lost confidence in the shock after it malfunctioned the third time. Afterall, its less than 6 months old? Again WTF? What really sucks is that they dont' stock the exact same fork( at least not w/ G2), so I'm going to get an 09 F29 RLC 100mm sized down to 80mm. They explained that they would have their service dept. switch it down to 80mm so it would be the same travel as my 1st fork. So, clearly Fox is cool with changing the travel for 100-80, I would assume that 80-100 would be cool too.

    I'm not really "excited" about the different fork. Does anyone know the difference between the F29 RL and F29 RLC? Something about slow-speed compression or something? Is the RLC a more advanced shock? Any information would be appreciated....

  71. #71
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    RLC has a slow speed compression adjustment and the RL doesn't. Slow speed compression controls the speed at which the fork compresses. So you can tune your fork to achieve maximum traction based on your trail characteristics. I've been riding my RLC @ 80mm for the last two months and I must say it is the best fork I've ridden in a long time. Fox's dampening and on the fly adjustments are top notch.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd
    Reasons to go from 80mm to 100mm travel :-

    @25% more travel with a plusher feel.
    5mm's higher BB height so less pedal strikes but slight balance issues at low speed.
    1degree ish slacker angles, so slower steering, more stable at speed, weight further back.
    5mm's more sag to extend into dips

    And if you get 75mm's travel, then you'll likely get 93mm's travel with a similar setup


    I'd change any bike from 80mm to 100mm ASAP, I did try my Reba SL in 80mm mode for abit, it's sooo much plusher in 100mm mode, 80 doesn't feel like it's doing anything ( it is ) and 100mm does in short.

    DO IT!!
    I switched from 100mm to 80mm for the following reasons:

    -Increased climbing ability.
    -Faster steering.
    -I don't need much travel for the trails I ride.

    Your results may vary.

  73. #73
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    I went from 80 mm to 100 mm today with no problem. There are 2 different oils in the spring side. Fox Float Oil on the top and Fox Suspension fluid in the bottom. I kept the fork level and kept most of the fluid inside while working on it. My shock is a 2010 Fox F29 80 RL.

  74. #74
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    Response I got from FOX:

    "You can adjust the fork up to 100mm as long as it is not the F80 29’er with the G2 offset."
    Joey Avila

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    Mine is the G2 offset and the upgrade went fine. I called Fox the other day and they said my fork is just a spaced out 100mm. I just removed the spacer and reassembled.

    What is the reason you can not adjust the fork to 100mm? Lack of a spacer?

    I rode and got 3.25 inches of travel in my driveway. 80mm earlier today.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfigel45
    What is the reason you can not adjust the fork to 100mm? Lack of a spacer? .
    only reason I can think of would be that Fisher had them cut down the extra stanchion length that would only be needed at 100mm and not at 80mm in order to save some weight. This wouldn't prevent you from extending the fork, but it could possibly mean less bushing overlap in the fork. I'm just guessing though

  77. #77
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    I thought the only difference between the G2 and a regular Fox is the crown offset. I am only guessing as well.

    boomn, what fork do you have? What year? What is the current travel?

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfigel45
    I thought the only difference between the G2 and a regular Fox is the crown offset. I am only guessing as well.

    boomn, what fork do you have? What year? What is the current travel?
    don't have one of these, just postulating

  79. #79
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    I have a 2009 F29 with G2 offset from my Superfly and removed the spacer last week without any problem. It is now 100mm travel.

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfigel45
    Mine is the G2 offset and the upgrade went fine. I called Fox the other day and they said my fork is just a spaced out 100mm. I just removed the spacer and reassembled.

    What is the reason you can not adjust the fork to 100mm? Lack of a spacer?

    I rode and got 3.25 inches of travel in my driveway. 80mm earlier today.
    Eventhough it's physically possible, you also have to make sure the damper unit can accomodate 100mm... that's the other half in all of this... if you're bottoming out the damper unit before reaching 100mm, that's not good and you'll eventually damage it. The damper unit is not meant to be the hardstop.

    EVIL Following

    Surly Wednesday

  81. #81
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    Is there a way to tell if the damper is bottoming out?

  82. #82
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    I just spoke with customer service at Fox and they assured me that if there is a 20 mm spacer in the F29, it is safe to remove the spacer to increase travel to 100 mm without worrying about bottoming out the damper.

  83. #83
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    G2?

    What is the G2 offset? I have a '09 F29, off the Stumpy.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by C Cow
    What is the G2 offset? I have a '09 F29, off the Stumpy.

    G2 offset is when the crown of the fork is "offset" forward 51mm from the steerer tube. It comes on Gary Fischer bikes and some Trek.

  85. #85
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    Hi all,
    I've modified a 2008 F29 RL from 80mm to 100mm travel, but after reassembly/oil change, have a couple of issues with it:

    1) When lockout is engaged, before the fork actually locks, it has around 20mm of travel, which is kind of annoying. What could be the cause ? Should I also increase the oil volume from 160cc, as it was when it was 80mm ?

    2) When lockout engages, if I put I higher pressure on the fork, or stand up pedalling uphill (I'm about 210lbs, and inflate the fork at 115psi), the fork still compresses, but harder. I've just brought the fork, and didn't ridden it much before changing the oil and travel, but before it seemed to be completely blocked or much stiffer when locked.

    So:
    - should the lockout completely lock the fork ? or is it ok to compress when higher force is applied ?
    - can the base valve (I assume this is the one that still allows some travel after the top-valve is locked) be made to compress under higher force, like in the RLC version ? Does it help to be completely blocked somehow ?

    Thanks.

  86. #86
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    Same lockout issue

    Quote Originally Posted by kathar
    Hi all,
    I've modified a 2008 F29 RL from 80mm to 100mm travel, but after reassembly/oil change, have a couple of issues with it:

    1) When lockout is engaged, before the fork actually locks, it has around 20mm of travel, which is kind of annoying. What could be the cause ? Should I also increase the oil volume from 160cc, as it was when it was 80mm ?

    2) When lockout engages, if I put I higher pressure on the fork, or stand up pedalling uphill (I'm about 210lbs, and inflate the fork at 115psi), the fork still compresses, but harder. I've just brought the fork, and didn't ridden it much before changing the oil and travel, but before it seemed to be completely blocked or much stiffer when locked.

    So:
    - should the lockout completely lock the fork ? or is it ok to compress when higher force is applied ?
    - can the base valve (I assume this is the one that still allows some travel after the top-valve is locked) be made to compress under higher force, like in the RLC version ? Does it help to be completely blocked somehow ?

    Thanks.
    I just did this conversion today and got the bike out on the trail with no ill affect in the ride- the extra 20mm of travel was great and definitely softened up the front end quite a bit.

    The only thing I noticed was the same lockout issue as above. I did this the super quick and clean route, putting the fork almost horizontal in the stand and not losing a drop of shock fluid. However, this means I never got to check how much fluid was in there. The Fox manual indicates that it should be 160 for both 80 and 100 versions of this fork, so I shouldn't need to add fluid, but I'll probably pull it apart and drain it this weekend and add new fluid to see if that solves the problem. Kathar- did you ever figure this one out?

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    Hi alshead,

    Actually what I've done is the following (although I don't think is something to be recommended ):

    1) I've fixed the issue with 20mm travel before engagement by increasing the oil volume with 20cc (so I've put 180cc of oil in the end);

    2) for the compression under lockout, I've done a potential dangerous workaround, by completely blocking the base-valve. I've done this based on the fact that before servicing, the fork was completely blocked under lockout, so I assumed that the base-valve was somehow stuck anyway. Since I've ridden the bike this way for two years without incidents, I assumed that I can continue with it blocked without worrying much.

    Of course, I'm aware of the fact that a significant bump with the fork under lockout can ruin the fork's cartridge, but I took my chances . At least now I'm having the rigid front-end I enjoy so much on ascents.

    Anyway, I'm using the lockout mainly on flat pavement, or on steep ascents, where I cannot stress the fork much.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by kathar
    Hi alshead,

    Actually what I've done is the following (although I don't think is something to be recommended ):

    1) I've fixed the issue with 20mm travel before engagement by increasing the oil volume with 20cc (so I've put 180cc of oil in the end);

    2) for the compression under lockout, I've done a potential dangerous workaround, by completely blocking the base-valve. I've done this based on the fact that before servicing, the fork was completely blocked under lockout, so I assumed that the base-valve was somehow stuck anyway. Since I've ridden the bike this way for two years without incidents, I assumed that I can continue with it blocked without worrying much.

    Of course, I'm aware of the fact that a significant bump with the fork under lockout can ruin the fork's cartridge, but I took my chances . At least now I'm having the rigid front-end I enjoy so much on ascents.

    Anyway, I'm using the lockout mainly on flat pavement, or on steep ascents, where I cannot stress the fork much.
    Sweet- thanks. I'm not going to mess with the base valve- I've done that on other forks and had issues. I'll drain the lower this weekend and re-fill with 170cc and see how that affects things.

  89. #89
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    FWIW- I drained my shock and it didn't seem to have nearly 160cc of fluid in there- refilled with 160-165cc and now the lockout engages perfectly and instantly.

  90. #90
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    Anybody here has a spacer they want to get rid off? I want to reduce travel to 80mm but don't have the spacer.

  91. #91
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    20mm spacer

    Quote Originally Posted by Minimalist
    Anybody here has a spacer they want to get rid off? I want to reduce travel to 80mm but don't have the spacer.

    I'm pretty sure I have an extra. I'm in Colorado- PM me and we'll work it out. Your LBS should be able to order one- or you could also try calling Fox Customer Service direct. 800.FOX.SHOX

  92. #92
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    I have a G2-offset F29 80mm fork...just laid the bike perfectly flat, took off the bottom nut and crush washer, released air pressure, took off the Schrader valve with a small cup underneath to catch the Float Fluid, then pushed the column out the top, popped off the spacer, and put it all back together. Super easy, now I've got ~4.25" of stanchion showing with a full 4" of travel available, rides great.

    Of course, I was dumb and didn't clean my bike first, so I got dirt in the Float Fluid, so I had to go get more to put in there so as to not contaminate the chamber with grit that would eventually destroy the internals. If you can avoid that though, then you should be able to do the whole thing in less than 10 minutes with 10mm and 26mm sockets and one catch-can.
    "I applaud your stupid idea because it is genius." - Eric Sovern, Surly

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    Hi all,

    just writing to thank mld2t and Whitedog for describing in such fine detail how it's done, so even I was able to follow it through the modification today...

    Now, my Fork seems to break lose easier, and feels plusher.

    Another benefit is that my ride feels stable again - I had recieved a current GF Paragon frame in exchange for my broken X-Cal (from 2009, with the 80mm Fork) - the bikeshop had put all the parts from the old onto the new frame, but it took me some time to find out that the Paragon is designed for a 100mm fork, which I now have. Much happier with it now.

    Again, thanks to all involved!

    Greets from Germany, tobi...

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    Hey Larry,

    Please check your PM box.

    thx, TIm

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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    FWIW- I drained my shock and it didn't seem to have nearly 160cc of fluid in there- refilled with 160-165cc and now the lockout engages perfectly and instantly.
    I know this is a noob question but, where would I add the additional 5-10 cc of oil to the fork if I go ahead with this procedure and have the same issue? I think we're talking about the damper side, but do you add from the top or bottom, or doesn't it matter? Thanks in advance, I really want to do this to my GF x-cal but want to be sure before I start

  96. #96
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    I just double checked with fox regarding removal of the 20mm spacer from a F29 RLC 2009 G2 fork set to 80mm travel:
    Hello,
    If is fine to remove the 20mm spacer in this fork to achieve 100mm of travel without any issues.
    Thanks,
    Tom Karambela
    Aftermarket Sales Representative - Bicycle Division
    831.768.4801
    310 Anna Street, Watsonville, CA 95076
    for the record, I took some measurements of stanchion length etc:
    The stanchions are 325mm long
    The damper rod has about 140mm of travel The air spring rod is 300mm long with one hole 130mm below the bottom of the air seal, there is another hole 25mm lower down where the plastic bit that holds the spring in place is located. Below that there is a 20mm removable spacer.

  97. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by Website Fox Racing Shox
    2002-2012 & 2013 80 - 120 FLOAT/F-Series Travel Adjust

    Note: All 32 mm FLOAT and F-Series forks can be reduced to 80 mm travel by adding travel spacers. The only FLOAT or F-Series fork models that can be INCREASED in travel by removing travel spacers, for all model years, are the following:

    F29 80 mm (can be extended to 100 mm maximum travel)
    831 100 mm (can be extended to 120 mm maximum travel)
    (2002-2012 & 2013 80 - 120 FLOAT/F-Series Travel Adjust)
    Belgian beer and Scotch whisky.

  98. #98
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    Old thread, I know...

    I just converted my Superfly from 80mm to 100mm. It feels great now. I was seriously thinking of getting rid of it because it never felt right. That small adjustment changed the feel for me quite a bit.

    I lost about half the fluid in the the air side lower, the green fluid. How big of a deal is it that this fluid remain at 30ml instead of the 15 I now have?

    I appreciate any input.

  99. #99
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    personally I would prefer to have more fluid than less fluid, but thats just my personal choice

  100. #100
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    Thread necro! Any chance the OP can put up the original photos to this thread again? They no longer show up, and I'm sure more than a few people are still curious as to whether or not they can convert the F80RL to 100mm. Please?

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