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  1. #1
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    Fox F29RL fork travel change

    So I took my Fox 29er fork apart the other night, the one that came on my '08 Paragon. I wanted to see if I could change the travle to 100mm. I don't see any of the "spacers" that are mentioned by others here on the board and in the manual (the ones I'm not supposed to take out). That being said, I don't see a manual on Fox's page for the RL model, only the RLC.

    What do you guys think? Is it possible to change with what I have, or could/would I need a new cartridge from Fox?
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  2. #2
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    What does the inside of the other leg look like?


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    So I took my Fox 29er fork apart the other night, the one that came on my '08 Paragon. I wanted to see if I could change the travle to 100mm. I don't see any of the "spacers" that are mentioned by others here on the board and in the manual (the ones I'm not supposed to take out). That being said, I don't see a manual on Fox's page for the RL model, only the RLC.

    What do you guys think? Is it possible to change with what I have, or could/would I need a new cartridge from Fox?
    Is that the damper unit? i.e. isn't the spacer on the air side?

  4. #4
    Feeding your addiction
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    Quote Originally Posted by b1umb0y
    Is that the damper unit? i.e. isn't the spacer on the air side?
    Yep, wrong side.

    Larry
    Mountain High Cyclery
    larry@mtnhighcyclery.com
    "It is inhumane, in my opinion, to force people who have a genuine medical need for coffee to wait in line behind people who apparently view it as some kind of recreational activity". - Dave Barry

  5. #5
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    Doh!
    Professional Amateur. Disagree? Submit your grievances here.

  6. #6
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    And if a recall correctly from working on my 26" Fox's:

    It's not a spacer, it's a machined stop collar that's held in place with a small roll pin.
    Pop out the pin w/ a little punch, slide the collar over to the next hole and re-insert the pin.
    Travel adjusted, no spacers like you find inside a RockShok.

  7. #7
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    I thought the consensus was that they could be converted from 100mm to 80mm but not the other way around? Someone posted an email from a fox tech around here somewhere, but I'm too lazy to search.

  8. #8
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    Well well well, maybe that's the problem then! That is the damper side.

    When I opened up the air side and just saw oil. Is the machined stop collar at the bottom of the leg?

    Yo Paul Revere, it's Matt Day from Fooftown by the way!

  9. #9
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    It is just a spacer. But your fork looks very different than mine.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by shishku
    It is just a spacer.
    But where is the spacer exactly? It's not on the damper cartridge in the picture from what I was told above.

    Quote Originally Posted by shishku
    But your fork looks very different than mine.
    My fork also includes the legs & stanchions also, if that's what you mean.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    ...it's Matt Day from Fooftown by the way!
    I remember you...used to ride a Yeti @ Wintergreen. Been awhile.


  12. #12
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    The spacer, is at the bottom of the air side under the oil, pop the lower bolt out, a assembly will fall out, ( if 80mm with C type spacer on the shaft, then a coil thats the negative coil, if 80mm remove spacer it'll let the forks go out further, job done.

    IF you've got the 100mm forks, then you'll need to purchase a spacer thats all, as you won't have 1 with the forks.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    Well well well, maybe that's the problem then! That is the damper side.

    When I opened up the air side and just saw oil. Is the machined stop collar at the bottom of the leg?

    Yo Paul Revere, it's Matt Day from Fooftown by the way!
    What? are all of the Fooftown mafia converting to 29 now?
    Buschetti holding out?

    the spacer thingy you're looking for is down in the fork leg,
    but I'm totally guessing here sort of. In the spring side, you'll
    first see the white plastic piston w/ a bit of heavy oil sitting on
    top of it. Crack the bottom nut loose & push this up outta the
    fork, expect some spooge to drip onto the floor and find a
    clean spot on that crowded workbench. I converted from
    100 to 80 and the shaft had a couple different holes thru it.
    Pop out the roll pin, slide the collar to the next setting and
    press the pin back in place. Instead of a spacer, the stop
    collar itself moved. You're fork may or may not have a spacer,
    or may or not have two positions for the collar. good luck,
    and clean that bench!

    Jack Frost?

  14. #14
    Schipperkes are cool.
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    Per FOX the 80mm cannot be made into a 100mm. The 100mm can be choked down to a 80mm on the "spring side" by adding a spacer..
    Quote Originally Posted by mikesee
    Better suited to non-aggressive 125# gals named Russell.

  15. #15
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    So they've cut the stanchions shorter to save a few grams then, that SUCKS!!

  16. #16
    just ride
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turveyd
    So they've cut the stanchions shorter to save a few grams then, that SUCKS!!
    Now this is the issue I have been running into as well. I was getting both answers from them and getting nowhere.

    A few weeks back I finally spoke with the guy who actually designed the whole thing. He said A-O-K for converting an 80 up to 100.

    I just got mine on Sunday, and I havent gotten to opening it up yet.

    However, I am already looking for a TALAS donor, Im not sure if it would work, but Im sure gonna try.

  17. #17
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    How about some pics of some one doing the conversion? My understanding or better yet hope is that the 80 mm can be converted up to the 100mm

  18. #18
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    Before mine came on a Superfly, I verified with Fox Tech Service that the 80 could be converted to 100. The answer was absolutely yes, and the guy was clearly frustrated by the rumor flying around that you could go from 100 to 80, but not the other way. Then I called back two days later, and got the same answer from a different tech.

    Mine showed up, and since I was out of town, my favorite wrench did the conversion. He said it took about 20 minutes, and gave me a little plastic spacer that came out, just in case I ever wanted to go back to 80 mm (never happen).

    Usually I do this stuff myself, but since I didn't this time, I can't comment on exactly how to do it, just that it definitely can be done.
    The drive towards achievement and success is the motive power of civilization.

  19. #19
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    Spacer comes in the box with the 100mm.

  20. #20
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    So what you guys are saying is that the F80 and the F100 are exactly the same forks, just set up differently at the factory?

  21. #21
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    I'll try to get into it tomorrow, and will take some pics for you all. Thanks for the info. It sounds promising; glad to hear it!

    And since I'm a pony I'm going to put on a 20t chainring.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by mld2t
    And since I'm a pony I'm going to put on a 20t chainring.
    chump.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by crux
    How about some pics of some one doing the conversion? My understanding or better yet hope is that the 80 mm can be converted up to the 100mm
    My 80mm was converted to 100mm by the shop I bought it from.

  24. #24
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    So I finally got a chance to open up the Fox F29RL again, this time I had great success (borat voice)!

    If you are going to do this, you need to essentially completely disassemble your fork. To start with, remove all the air out of the left leg. Remove the nuts at the bottom of each leg. After these nuts are off you can lightly tap on the bolt with a mallet to release them and push them into the legs, but have a couple catch pans or cups ready to collect the oil from each leg. There is about 150cc in the right leg, which is quite a bit. See the pic below.
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  25. #25
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    Once all the oil has drained, you can pull the lowers off. You'll probably need to remove your brake caliper or lever at this point as well.

    Once the lowers are off, take the top cap off the left leg (air side). Theres some low viscosity (thick) oil in there. Turn the bike upside down to drain this sludgy oil out.

    Next you can push the piston/spring assembly out, as the picture below shows.
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