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  1. #101
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    Quote Originally Posted by jochribs View Post
    It really catches you off guard the first time.
    It is a bit surprising! I've tried contacting Specy several times in email and never once received a reply. Called them on the phone a few times with questions, and reach a "real person" every time!

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    It is a bit surprising! I've tried contacting Specy several times in email and never once received a reply. Called them on the phone a few times with questions, and reach a "real person" every time!
    I've had the same experience with Santa Cruz also.
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  3. #103
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    Really interested in these!!

    Everybody called me crazy for running tubless on my infernos with no bead hook. I guess I dont have as much to worry about now.

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by machine4321 View Post
    Really interested in these!!

    Everybody called me crazy for running tubless on my infernos with no bead hook. I guess I dont have as much to worry about now.
    What happened to the bead hook on your Infernos? If that rim really didn't have a bead hook, with a sloping beat seat like that, I'd be worried about inflating a tire on it with a compressor.



    If it had a flat beadshelf, like these Roval rims, with controlled tolerances on the diameter/circumference, side of the rim creates a 90 degree bend that holds the tire onto the rim.

  5. #105
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    First look at the $1200 Specialized Carbon 29er Wheels.

    How are actual weights comparing to claimed weights? Has anyone ridden these and/or enve and the "nancy" carbon rims?
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  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by ACree View Post
    How are actual weights comparing to claimed weights? Has anyone ridden these and/or enve and the "nancy" carbon rims?
    Mine weighed in @1580 grams for the pair. 850 grams rear/730 grams front IIRC. So it was very close to the other weights I've seen posted.

    I have a ENVE AM and XC 29er wheels (I work in a shop), and these slot in between them in both weight and width. The ENVE AM wheels are pretty burly and look like they can take a lot more abuse than the Rovals, but for trail riding the Rovals look ok. I still haven't mounted tires on them to see how they ride. Hopefully by next weekend I can give a ride report.

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough View Post
    Mine weighed in @1580 grams for the pair. 850 grams rear/730 grams front IIRC. So it was very close to the other weights I've seen posted.

    I have a ENVE AM and XC 29er wheels (I work in a shop), and these slot in between them in both weight and width. The ENVE AM wheels are pretty burly and look like they can take a lot more abuse than the Rovals, but for trail riding the Rovals look ok. I still haven't mounted tires on them to see how they ride. Hopefully by next weekend I can give a ride report.
    Look forward to hearing your feedback after riding the Rovals!

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2TurnersNotEnough View Post
    Mine weighed in @1580 grams for the pair. 850 grams rear/730 grams front IIRC. So it was very close to the other weights I've seen posted.

    I have a ENVE AM and XC 29er wheels (I work in a shop), and these slot in between them in both weight and width. The ENVE AM wheels are pretty burly and look like they can take a lot more abuse than the Rovals, but for trail riding the Rovals look ok. I still haven't mounted tires on them to see how they ride. Hopefully by next weekend I can give a ride report.
    What was your setup to get the 1580g weight ... 15mm or 9mm QR front, 135mm or 142mm rear?

    In this thread alone I've seen weights listed between 1580g and 1634g (Francouis scale weights) ... although in his pics include a roll of tape the wheels are sitting on, so not sure how much weight they add?

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    What was your setup to get the 1580g weight ... 15mm or 9mm QR front, 135mm or 142mm rear?

    In this thread alone I've seen weights listed between 1580g and 1634g (Francouis scale weights) ... although in his pics include a roll of tape the wheels are sitting on, so not sure how much weight they add?
    End caps just pop in and out no matter what your fork/rear dropouts are and really should not alter the weight of the wheelset by more than a very small spit of water (if even that). At least they don't alter the weight on the older version of Rovals that I have (came with all of the end caps) when I swap back and forth between 15mm TA and 9mm QR.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8403443207/" title="RovalEndCaps by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8494/8403443207_32bdbcde6b_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="RovalEndCaps"></a>

  10. #110
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    Hey Bruce,

    Are you riding alloy or carbon Rovals? Happy with their performance and durability? The only experience I have with Rovals are on my cx bike ... and they've been trouble free.

    For my RDO I intend to go with Control Carbon or the Control SL Carbon ... just debating if the relatively small weight difference (130g) is worth the price difference? Based on the tests and reviews it appears the no-hook bead is a non-issue.

  11. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    What was your setup to get the 1580g weight ... 15mm or 9mm QR front, 135mm or 142mm rear?

    In this thread alone I've seen weights listed between 1580g and 1634g (Francouis scale weights) ... although in his pics include a roll of tape the wheels are sitting on, so not sure how much weight they add?
    1580g with 15mm front/142x12 rear endcaps with tape and valve stems installed.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by ripn View Post
    Can anyone verify the front hub is convertible to 20mm? I understand the QR and 15mm caps are included, and assume if they work with 20mm you'd have to buy them separately. Any source for these?
    I checked the Specialized Technical Support site for dealers and confirmed that the hub is identical to the Trail SL wheels and will use the same 20mm end caps. So you'll have to go through a Specialized dealer to order them. The part number is S125900003 and they're in stock as of 2/20/2013.

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    End caps just pop in and out no matter what your fork/rear dropouts are and really should not alter the weight of the wheelset by more than a very small spit of water (if even that). At least they don't alter the weight on the older version of Rovals that I have (came with all of the end caps) when I swap back and forth between 15mm TA and 9mm QR.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/8403443207/" title="RovalEndCaps by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8494/8403443207_32bdbcde6b_z.jpg" width="640" height="425" alt="RovalEndCaps"></a>
    I really like the end cap design that Specialized has. I just wish that the hubs were Centerlock.

  14. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    Hey Bruce,

    Are you riding alloy or carbon Rovals? Happy with their performance and durability? The only experience I have with Rovals are on my cx bike ... and they've been trouble free.

    For my RDO I intend to go with Control Carbon or the Control SL Carbon ... just debating if the relatively small weight difference (130g) is worth the price difference? Based on the tests and reviews it appears the no-hook bead is a non-issue.
    Carbon Roval Trail SL's since November of 2011. 1520g for the pair I have. Still going strong 15 months after getting them, so I guess the durability is fine for my needs.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6365947569/" title="Roval Trail SL's on the scale - 1520g by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6236/6365947569_3d0301ede7_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Roval Trail SL's on the scale - 1520g"></a>

    Well, the price difference includes a bit better rear hub internals which is most of the weight savings as well. 130g is more weight than the 4 ounces of sealant you'll have to use (2 ounces in each tire) - so I'd say it would be worth it.

    Your other option would be to build up a set of wheels with the Light-Bicycle carbon rims (Rassy's built mine) for less than the Specialized Rovals if saving $$$ is of interest. Durability for my wheelset (LB rims, American Classic hubs, Wheelsmith spokes) has been equal to my Rovals.

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  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Carbon Roval Trail SL's since November of 2011. 1520g for the pair I have. Still going strong 15 months after getting them, so I guess the durability is fine for my needs.

    <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/7166535@N05/6365947569/" title="Roval Trail SL's on the scale - 1520g by BBcamerata, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm7.staticflickr.com/6236/6365947569_3d0301ede7_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="Roval Trail SL's on the scale - 1520g"></a>

    Well, the price difference includes a bit better rear hub internals which is most of the weight savings as well. 130g is more weight than the 4 ounces of sealant you'll have to use (2 ounces in each tire) - so I'd say it would be worth it.

    Your other option would be to build up a set of wheels with the Light-Bicycle carbon rims (Rassy's built mine) for less than the Specialized Rovals if saving $$$ is of interest. Durability for my wheelset (LB rims, American Classic hubs, Wheelsmith spokes) has been equal to my Rovals.

    BB
    Rear hub internals between 240 and 350 hubs (at least the ratchet mechanism) are "identical" per DT Swiss Rep I spoke with a few days back. They do have slightly different bearings, although he said it was a negligible difference? He did mention extra machining of 240 internal hub body shaved some of the weight, but rim with bead hook also a big part of weight savings (compared to the Control wheels). On the front wheel the SL model uses an alloy/carbon hub body, where the Control model uses a full-alloy hub body, so some weight savings there too.

    From a durability standpoint, Specialized seems to think the Control wheels will be even stronger compared to SL's (impact resistance and stiffness), due to a stronger bead layup with no bead hook, but it sounds like either model has excellent durability.

    With all that said, it essentially amounts to roughly $375 cost for a savings of 130 grams (with discount), as I suspect everything else about the wheels will perform very close to equal?

    I usually run Specialized Fast Traks in the Control version, but a switch to S-work tires would actually shave more weight than the SL wheels! That said, I'm not sure I'm willing to risk S-works tires due to their extra thin side walls potentially creating more flats?

    One way or the other I plan to give Rovals a try this season!

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    Rear hub internals between 240 and 350 hubs (at least the ratchet mechanism) are "identical" per DT Swiss Rep I spoke with a few days back. They do have slightly different bearings, although he said it was a negligible difference? He did mention extra machining of 240 internal hub body shaved some of the weight, but rim with bead hook also a big part of weight savings (compared to the Control wheels). On the front wheel the SL model uses an alloy/carbon hub body, where the Control model uses a full-alloy hub body, so some weight savings there too.

    From a durability standpoint, Specialized seems to think the Control wheels will be even stronger compared to SL's (impact resistance and stiffness), due to a stronger bead layup with no bead hook, but it sounds like either model has excellent durability.

    With all that said, it essentially amounts to roughly $375 cost for a savings of 130 grams (with discount), as I suspect everything else about the wheels will perform very close to equal?

    I usually run Specialized Fast Traks in the Control version, but a switch to S-work tires would actually shave more weight than the SL wheels! That said, I'm not sure I'm willing to risk S-works tires due to their extra thin side walls potentially creating more flats?
    One way or the other I plan to give Rovals a try this season!
    All I can do is relate my experience. I've run Sworks tires for a long time without a single issue. I had a SJ FSR and like the Purgatory and Control tires that were on it. When I switched to my TBc, I hated the stock tires on it. So my wife treated me to Sworks Version of the Purg and Control. I had asked on here about, a lot of people commented on how easy the sidewalls cut and I ignored that since I hadn't had a problem in the past- but that was before tubeless.

    First ride, slice the rear sidewall, to big for sealant to hold, took them both back under warranty and replace with non sworks version. Same trails few months of riding not a problem so far.
    To me not worth the tiny weight savings.
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  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    With all that said, it essentially amounts to roughly $375 cost for a savings of 130 grams (with discount), as I suspect everything else about the wheels will perform very close to equal?
    Not too terribly bad for .28 pounds (more than a 1/4 pound, less than a 1/3 of a pound). There was a time, about a decade ago, where $1 a gram was not too out of line for weight weenie builds. Bike component prices have sky rocketed in the past decade (compared to a lot of other things and the use of higher tech ingredients). So today's weight weenie builds seem to consider the $2-3 per gram cost as nott too terribly out of line. 130g saved on the wheels, 80g saved on grips, 100g saved on pedals, 80g saved on saddle weight, 100g saved on tires - and suddenly your bike is 1+ pounds lighter.

    Sounds like you've already talked yourself into the Control version (which is fine, by the way). The price point and 2013 models look really good from Specialized compared to the prior model pricing. Having gone both the route of the Rovals and a Light-Bicycle carbon build - I'd probably choose the latter to really get what I wanted if I was doing it all over again. You get to pick the rims, hubs, spokes and nipples for desired weight and budget.

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    All I can do is relate my experience. I've run Sworks tires for a long time without a single issue. I had a SJ FSR and like the Purgatory and Control tires that were on it. When I switched to my TBc, I hated the stock tires on it. So my wife treated me to Sworks Version of the Purg and Control. I had asked on here about, a lot of people commented on how easy the sidewalls cut and I ignored that since I hadn't had a problem in the past- but that was before tubeless.

    First ride, slice the rear sidewall, to big for sealant to hold, took them both back under warranty and replace with non sworks version. Same trails few months of riding not a problem so far.
    To me not worth the tiny weight savings.
    Not sure if it's just a typo on your part, but on one hand you say you've run Sworks tires for a long time without a single issue ... did you mean to say "Specialized" tires? Because later you go on to mention several issues you've had with Sworks tires forcing you back to Control versions ... which have been trouble-free?

    I know several riders using Sworks tires with no issues, but I probably know more that have had sidewall cut problems. That's the main reason I'm hesitant to make the switch to Sworks tires ... and if I did it would probably only be on the front?

  19. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by BruceBrown View Post
    Not too terribly bad for .28 pounds (more than a 1/4 pound, less than a 1/3 of a pound). There was a time, about a decade ago, where $1 a gram was not too out of line for weight weenie builds. Bike component prices have sky rocketed in the past decade (compared to a lot of other things and the use of higher tech ingredients). So today's weight weenie builds seem to consider the $2-3 per gram cost as nott too terribly out of line. 130g saved on the wheels, 80g saved on grips, 100g saved on pedals, 80g saved on saddle weight, 100g saved on tires - and suddenly your bike is 1+ pounds lighter.

    Sounds like you've already talked yourself into the Control version (which is fine, by the way). The price point and 2013 models look really good from Specialized compared to the prior model pricing. Having gone both the route of the Rovals and a Light-Bicycle carbon build - I'd probably choose the latter to really get what I wanted if I was doing it all over again. You get to pick the rims, hubs, spokes and nipples for desired weight and budget.
    I thought I had talked myself into the Control version ... until YOU chimed in!

    All joking aside, I like everything I've read about the SL and Control Rovals (DT internals & spokes sound great, hand built quality assurance sounds great). I was originally very hesitant with the no-hook bead, but based on reviews and tests I've seen online, losing the hook seems like a non-issue from a tire security point, and possibly even an advantage from an impact resistance point?

    If I did go the SL route, I would have to go with the lighter Race SL's to gain the 130g savings, per Specy site the new Trail SL's are within 10 grams of the Controls.

    Thanks for the feedback BB!
    Last edited by kfb66; 02-21-2013 at 02:57 PM.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    Rear hub internals between 240 and 350 hubs (at least the ratchet mechanism) are "identical" per DT Swiss Rep I spoke with a few days back. They do have slightly different bearings, although he said it was a negligible difference? He did mention extra machining of 240 internal hub body shaved some of the weight, but rim with bead hook also a big part of weight savings (compared to the Control wheels). On the front wheel the SL model uses an alloy/carbon hub body, where the Control model uses a full-alloy hub body, so some weight savings there too.

    From a durability standpoint, Specialized seems to think the Control wheels will be even stronger compared to SL's (impact resistance and stiffness), due to a stronger bead layup with no bead hook, but it sounds like either model has excellent durability.

    With all that said, it essentially amounts to roughly $375 cost for a savings of 130 grams (with discount), as I suspect everything else about the wheels will perform very close to equal?

    I usually run Specialized Fast Traks in the Control version, but a switch to S-work tires would actually shave more weight than the SL wheels! That said, I'm not sure I'm willing to risk S-works tires due to their extra thin side walls potentially creating more flats?

    One way or the other I plan to give Rovals a try this season!
    I have run the S-Works tires (several models) only as fronts with zero issues - I choose the added security of Controls in the back b/c of the stories I had heard. Some places just aren't worth the weight savings.
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  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by kfb66 View Post
    Not sure if it's just a typo on your part, but on one hand you say you've run Sworks tires for a long time without a single issue ... did you mean to say "Specialized" tires? Because later you go on to mention several issues you've had with Sworks tires forcing you back to Control versions ... which have been trouble-free?

    I know several riders using Sworks tires with no issues, but I probably know more that have had sidewall cut problems. That's the main reason I'm hesitant to make the switch to Sworks tires ... and if I did it would probably only be on the front?
    I was running the SWorks versions of tires for a long time yes, but that was back in the early 2000's before tubeless was around. Never had a problem so I ignored the warning about CURRENT Sworks sidewalls being thin and tearing easy because of my past experience with SWorks tires. I should have listened. The Sworks Purgatory is 25g less than the Control, hardly worth the thinner sidewalls and hassle of a tear. I could cut back on what eat that morning and save more weight than having two Sworks tires vs. their Control counterparts.
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  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    I was running the SWorks versions of tires for a long time yes, but that was back in the early 2000's before tubeless was around. Never had a problem so I ignored the warning about CURRENT Sworks sidewalls being thin and tearing easy because of my past experience with SWorks tires. I should have listened. The Sworks Purgatory is 25g less than the Control, hardly worth the thinner sidewalls and hassle of a tear. I could cut back on what eat that morning and save more weight than having two Sworks tires vs. their Control counterparts.
    For a 25g difference I would agree, NOT worth it. With Fast Trak's the difference between Sworks and Control is 80-90g so might be worth it?

  23. #123
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    Just picked up a set of the Roval Control Carbon 29er wheels and they are sweet! I had to settle for a road ride today since we had snow yesterday, but I could feel the difference in wheel weight (~400g) from my Stan's Flow EX wheels. We have snow again tomorrow and I have a business trip next week so not sure when I'll get some trail riding in, but will report back when I do.

  24. #124
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    Nice looking rig!

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    Does anyone know if they will be releasing a comparable 26" wheelset?

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    Anyone compared these to the Haven Carbon 29ers ? Colorado Cyclist has them for $1300. They're slightly narrower, same weight but they don't need rim strips. I know the Haven's have had hub issues but do have a great warranty (2yrs no questions asked).

    Is the 1580 weight folks are quoting including rim tape and valves ? I'm a little torn between the two sets. I'm sure the DT hubs are better but Easton is also better with their customer service. The slight extra width is a plus for the Rovals. The Easton's supposedly have a more durable carbon surface (less prone to dings).

    Any thoughts on this comparison ?

  27. #127
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    The Roval Controls without bead-hook are supposed to have improved impact resistance compared to last year's Roval SL's ... so that may not be an advantage for Easton any more? My guess is the DT hub alone will be a worthwhile upgrade from Easton hubs.

    Quote Originally Posted by ben2e View Post
    Anyone compared these to the Haven Carbon 29ers ? Colorado Cyclist has them for $1300. They're slightly narrower, same weight but they don't need rim strips. I know the Haven's have had hub issues but do have a great warranty (2yrs no questions asked).

    Is the 1580 weight folks are quoting including rim tape and valves ? I'm a little torn between the two sets. I'm sure the DT hubs are better but Easton is also better with their customer service. The slight extra width is a plus for the Rovals. The Easton's supposedly have a more durable carbon surface (less prone to dings).

    Any thoughts on this comparison ?

  28. #128
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    There is this Easton free upgrade offer to consider, if applicable.

  29. #129
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    The Rovals weight is with tape, stem and skewer. I just got set and like them very much.

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    Just took my first ride today on a brand new set of the Roval Control 29 Carbon wheels. I'm 5'7 150 lbs. and ride a '12 Epic Comp 29 that came stock with Roval aluminum wheels. My LBS said that the new wheels actually mounted easier than the SL's. I had them set them up tubeless with the stock tires (Fast Trak Control front/Renegade rear).

    This is my first set of aftermarket wheels on any bike and so I really had no idea what to expect other than what I've read and heard others say. I've been riding about 2 1/2 years and I would say I'm an intermediate level rider. I don't necessarily claim to know all the lingo on how to even describe how the wheels perform but I will give a basic synopsis:

    My first impression is that the bike pedals uphill much easier than it did before. It's just that simple. It feels like it takes less effort to turn the cranks over, or maybe I should put it another way- if I pedal with the same effort as I did with the stock wheels, it results in my covering more ground faster and feeling like I'm expending less energy. I noticed it everywhere except downhill, which I'm usually coasting except for short bursts of pedaling.

    My second impression is that they make the ride smoother and actually even more quiet. To be fair, I must disclose that I also put a Niner carbon flat top bar on at the same time as the wheels, so part of the smoother feel may be coming through the bars but certainly not all of it. Overall, I'm very, very happy with the wheels and I can see that all the hype about lightweight wheels makes sense now.

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    If anyone knows where to get a set of the Carbons with any price break, please send me a PM. I see a lot of the SL's for sale on eBay but they're 90% 142+.

    Not that it's a big advantage but I believe the SL's are a hair wider (1mm) internally. I'm one who wished they made the Carbon's wider. I'd deal with a few more grames for a few more mm width.

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    My Havens have been trouble free for 1 year now. I do know they changed the lock nut a year ago so the bearing setting would't loosen, and now an upgrade to the hub. I'm satisfied but the Rovals look nice at $1200.

  33. #133
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    Any updates or additional ride reports on these? I have a pair ordered and should be in this week or next, gonna go on a steel HT build.

  34. #134
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    Roval report

    Quote Originally Posted by rroeder View Post
    Any updates or additional ride reports on these? I have a pair ordered and should be in this week or next, gonna go on a steel HT build.
    I've got a pair of the new Rovals that I've used about 6 times, including a 3-day enduro event, where they got a thorough thrashing. So far they are solid (Note: I weight about 155 lbs., so they should be solid). I wouldn't have noticed the lack of a bead hook if there hadn't been so much chatter about it- tires mount and ride the same as my hooked Stans and Bontrager TLR rims. Be careful of the 45 psi max pressure when seating the beads, however. The front axle adapters make switching between 15mm TA and 9mm QR easy, so I use the wheels on two different bikes. I think people feel whatever they want to feel, and the more money they invest on a lightweight wheelset, the more they're going to feel. Having said that, it does seem to me that these wheels spin up easier than my alloy wheelsets. It's early yet, but so far I'm happy with 'em.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage View Post
    I've got a pair of the new Rovals that I've used about 6 times, including a 3-day enduro event, where they got a thorough thrashing. So far they are solid (Note: I weight about 155 lbs., so they should be solid). I wouldn't have noticed the lack of a bead hook if there hadn't been so much chatter about it- tires mount and ride the same as my hooked Stans and Bontrager TLR rims. Be careful of the 45 psi max pressure when seating the beads, however. The front axle adapters make switching between 15mm TA and 9mm QR easy, so I use the wheels on two different bikes. I think people feel whatever they want to feel, and the more money they invest on a lightweight wheelset, the more they're going to feel. Having said that, it does seem to me that these wheels spin up easier than my alloy wheelsets. It's early yet, but so far I'm happy with 'em.
    I have had the same experience as well. Just got them two weeks ago. I have ten or so solid rides on my set of carbon controls, all on very rocky and rooty classic New England single track. I'm 165 all geared up to ride and they feel very solid underneath me. Mounted 2.35 nobby nics easily both front and rear. Running tubeless with no issues.

  36. #136
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    I have about 350 miles on mine since late February and love them. I converted the rear of the RIP9 to a maxle at the same time to stiffen the ride further since I'm a clyde (6'2" 225 lbs). I originally had Nobby Nics front/rear but trashed them on a ride at Pueblo Reservoir (broken shale lined trail). Switched over to S-Works Ground Control up front and S-Works The Captain in the rear.

    I'm very happy and would buy them again and move them to the next bike if I sold the RIP for some reason. I ride everything from XC to rocky front range CO trails and love how much they've lightened the bike and how well they accelerate. No problems mounting either set of tires tubeless.

  37. #137
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    Tell me sir, do you feel the change from alum to carbon rims more on the aluminum HT, or Shamu the carbon killer whale?

    Thank you.
    Wait whuuut, who did he tell you that!?!?....

  38. #138
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    Of course carbon rims (or any lighter wheel) will climb and accelerate faster/more easily. I've been using the SLs ($1700) with no bead hook and know many other people using either the $1200 or $1700 sets and see them at races and I haven't heard anything negative about that design yet. As far as the wheels go they are incredibly stiff, light and awesome. With a recent tire and wheel change on my bike I took two pounds of rotating weight away and I climb about 10-12% faster and accelerate better as well but that's much harder to quantify. I've got about 100 miles on my set of some pretty hard riding, been running the tires (Racing Ralph in back, Nobby Nic in front although that's too sticky for race day and I'm going to either put a larger racing ralph of maxxis ikon on there) in the 21-25 range while I'm at 150 pounds. I got the set to just be my race day set, but they make the bike so much more nimble that I can't imagine using the old set ever again. I actually kind of want the $1200 set as well so that I can have a burlier tire combination ready to go for training and leisure rides.

  39. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by rogerfromco View Post
    I have about 350 miles on mine since late February and love them. I converted the rear of the RIP9 to a maxle at the same time to stiffen the ride further since I'm a clyde (6'2" 225 lbs). I originally had Nobby Nics front/rear but trashed them on a ride at Pueblo Reservoir (broken shale lined trail). Switched over to S-Works Ground Control up front and S-Works The Captain in the rear.

    I'm very happy and would buy them again and move them to the next bike if I sold the RIP for some reason. I ride everything from XC to rocky front range CO trails and love how much they've lightened the bike and how well they accelerate. No problems mounting either set of tires tubeless.
    That's good to hear, I'm 210 and will be using the wheels for trail riding. I'm in the Springs and ride the same type of terrain, hoping they hold up and are stiff. I'm used to riding Hope/Flow wheels with Ardents 2.4's or DHF tires, I'm gonna try some Ikon 2.35's on these. I should shed some serious weight and will rocket up the hills lol

  40. #140
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtdan View Post
    Of course carbon rims (or any lighter wheel) will climb and accelerate faster/more easily. I've been using the SLs ($1700) with no bead hook and know many other people using either the $1200 or $1700 sets and see them at races and I haven't heard anything negative about that design yet. As far as the wheels go they are incredibly stiff, light and awesome. With a recent tire and wheel change on my bike I took two pounds of rotating weight away and I climb about 10-12% faster and accelerate better as well but that's much harder to quantify. I've got about 100 miles on my set of some pretty hard riding, been running the tires (Racing Ralph in back, Nobby Nic in front although that's too sticky for race day and I'm going to either put a larger racing ralph of maxxis ikon on there) in the 21-25 range while I'm at 150 pounds. I got the set to just be my race day set, but they make the bike so much more nimble that I can't imagine using the old set ever again. I actually kind of want the $1200 set as well so that I can have a burlier tire combination ready to go for training and leisure rides.
    Are you sure your $1700 SL don't have a bead hook? My understanding was that eliminating the bead hook is how they brought the price down and only the $1200 wheelset has no hook.
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  41. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by Appendage View Post
    I've got a pair of the new Rovals that I've used about 6 times, including a 3-day enduro event, where they got a thorough thrashing.
    Thx, I'm heavier but wont be doing any of that style riding on this bike, how did they feel as far as stiffness on the enduro event?

  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Are you sure your $1700 SL don't have a bead hook? My understanding was that eliminating the bead hook is how they brought the price down and only the $1200 wheelset has no hook.
    Yeah, pretty sure, but I'll double check them as I'll be taking the front tire off in the next few weeks in favor of a Maxxis Ikon 2.35.

  43. #143
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    I've just done 1160KM in 9 days across Portugal. No issues at all with a set of Ikons fitted at 28psi in the back and 22psi in the front. Wheels body and bike took a battering over some very rough terrain. Bearings are fine as well and wheels appear straight still.

  44. #144
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    I have a handful of rides on mine, and love these wheels. The ONLY issue I have had is I have rolled 2 Racing Ralph 2.20's off the front with around 28psi in them on some faster technical turns. I ultimately switched out the front to an S-Works tire and have had no problems whatsoever... Never had that problem with my Crest wheels, so I am pretty certain the lack of the lip on these wheels is the culprit...
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  45. #145
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Are you sure your $1700 SL don't have a bead hook? My understanding was that eliminating the bead hook is how they brought the price down and only the $1200 wheelset has no hook.
    You are correct. Unless Dirtdan took a file and some sandpaper to his rims, he should still have a bead hook.

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  47. #147
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    You are correct, my rims have a bead hook. My bad.

  48. #148
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    Picked mine up this week, they are very nice!, 1620g with 15mm/142 endcaps. They are going on this- The All Mountain - Reeb Bicycles. Along with Sid 120 fork, XO/X9 drivetrain, XT brakes, Gravity dropper post with mix of Chromag, Thomson cockpit

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